Chevrolet - Malibu :: 1999 - Starting But Gear Shift Frozen
Nov 21, 2013
It is an automatic. (1999 Malibu) . Is it possible for a car to start but the gear shift to be frozen?
View 5 RepliesIt is an automatic. (1999 Malibu) . Is it possible for a car to start but the gear shift to be frozen?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 Chevy Malibu with around 190000 miles on it. Recently, first thing in the morning then I start driving, that car will not shift into 2nd gear for a bit. The engine will rev up the 2000 RPM and stay there. After a while it will finally shift. The fact that the engine stays revved that high for that long makes me nervous.
View 9 RepliesRecently my malibu would crank but not start. The consensus was fuel pump. I usually use Cole Muffler since they're close but I've had too many issues with them so I decided to take it to Sandone Tire. Upon further inspection, it turned out to be a wiring issue. I then received a call telling me that when the fuel pump was tested with their equipment, it had 0 electrical charge, and would not run the car for more than 3 seconds, essentially indicating that there was now a pump AND wiring issue, and the pump had to be replaced.
When the work was completed, about 2 days later, i hiked to Sandone to get my car, and was hit with an almost $900 bill. $300 fuel pump plus labor, $300 labor to run the testing equipment on the electrical system, gas fillup, tow, etc. I was told "Well, we fixed the problem of the car not running, as far as the other issues (small ongoing, and possibly linked electrical problems like lighter/ac, radio, locks, etc.. that may have led to the current problem) we'd have to bring it in and look at that"
I turned on the ignition to listen to the new fuel pump, and it would not stop priming. I read that that it can be 1 of 2 things, the fuel pump relay or the pcm not receiving the signal to turn it off after a few seconds. I tried to get back into the place, but he had locked up for the night. Ok, no big deal. It runs. We'll figure the rest out later.
It's now 1 day later and the vehicle is not starting again. Though this time it "tries" to start, with a little puff of combustion here and there, but will not start. I am going to ask if they put the right octane gas in, and tell them that I had a previous idle air control valve needing to be cleaned issue, but other than that I'm stuck on how to deal with this situation.
Also, if the fuel pump was running fine then "suddenly" crapped out, and the problem is electrical, how the hell does the fuel pump suddenly then need to be replaced because it won't run for more than 3 seconds?
My 2003 Chevy Malibu recently, out of nowhere, starting idling really hard. It shakes and jumps quite a bit when it idles, much like a car creeps when it's about to run out of gas. It drives fine at speeds over about 10-15 mph, but then when it slows down it gets shaky and bumpy.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2011 Chevy Malibu, with a little over 100k miles on it. A couple weeks ago it started acting a little funny when I would shift into reverse after starting it after sitting for a while. I thought it might have been due to temperature as it didn't do it after the car had warmed up or when it was warmer out.
Yesterday it started acting up really bad, will not shift out of first gear, and will not shift into reverse, and the check engine light came on. I was able to get it up to O'Reilly's to get the codes. It came back with 2 separate codes.
P0700 - Transmission Control Module (TCM) Requested MIL IlluminationP0776 - Clutch Pressure Control (PC) Solenoid - Stuck Off
The guy there seemed to think that the second code was probably caused by the first one, and most likely the TCM needs replaced. It makes sense to me, but before I head down this path I want to get some input, as it is a little over $300 for the part.
Started having problems with my Chevy Malibu (1999, with 95,000 miles on it) while driving two times this week. Both times an alert warning flashed on my dashboard. The first time, flashed the brake check and ABS warning on the left side of the dashboard, and the second time the check oil and check battery warning on the right side. In both cases, after the warnings flashed, the car was still running, but stepping on the gas pedal resulted in no acceleration, but brakes still worked. The steering wheel also locks-up to the point where I can't turn any more. Both times, I stopped and shut off the engine, waited about 30 seconds and restarted, after which everything is fine and normal. The brake pads were changed recently, but not the rotors which may not be in very good shape.
I took the car to garage and found the belt is good, but I have replaced both the alternator and battery, and also changed the brake pads. Car ran fine for a day. Yesterday while driving, had another issue of the accelerator not working while in the middle of driving. Was going up a small hill, tried to accelerate, but stepping on the accelerator didn't do anything. A few seconds later, I could not press down on the pedal anymore (as if the car was off). Brakes worked, I could turn, and no warning lights. Turned off ignition, restarted the car, and everything was fine. Same problem with the accelerator as I first reported, but no problem with charging or turning the wheel, and no warning lights since the alternator and battery are new.
I have a 1999 chevy malibu with a 2005 chevy impala motor in it. Recently I put my car into reverse and it made a hard clunk and went into reverse. Later on that day I tried to go into reverse and it will not reverse. I had to have 3 people push my car back in neutral. However, in neutral I am able to press on the gas and drive forward... This is an automatic transmission. Am I just screwed and need a brand new transmission?
View 12 RepliesI see it's been 7 months since my daughters last oil change, yet the car has just over 1000 miles since the last oil change. I'm wondering if I should change it for good measure or wait ( it's a 1999 chevy malibu)....
View 19 RepliesJust went to leave my apartment and I get at the first traffic light and put it into neutral. Light turns green and I try to put it into first and it won't let me... In fact I cannot shift into any gear while the car is started. Put the flashers on and I am stumped. There was also more resistance in the clutch pedal as soon as this happened.
I turned the car off and tried wiggling it into any gear. For some reason while the car is off I can put it into any gear. So I had to put the car in first gear and start it and limp it home. I had to rev the engine to about 2,800 - 3,000 RPMS in order to get the car to bite and take off. Shifting into any other gear while driving was a hassle and it felt like there was a lot of resistance.
Just did some quick Vwvortex recon and some people are saying that it is a broken pressure plate? Pressure plate welds itself to the clutch? Or possibly a throwout bearing? Also what Transmission is in a 2003 Passat 1.8T Engine code AWM.
I drive a 1999 Chevy Malibu. My car overheated the other day so I pulled over and realized the overflow was bone dry. So I added water and finished my trip. By the time I got there the car was overheating again and the overflow was again empty. I have changed the water pump, the thermostat, and the overflow cap. Whats happening now is when I crank it the car Idles fine until it gets warm, then steam starts to come out of the overflow hose coming from the cap. If I drive it not only steam but all my coolant just starts pouring out of this thing. I was told this might mean a busted head, but there is no coolant in my oil or water coming out of my exhaust.
View 1 RepliesWhen I tried to turn left yesterday, my car suddenly stopped with both the "check engine" light and "battery" light on, but the heat, headlights and radio were working just fine. I turned off the engine, and waiting a few minutes, ad then restarted the car, and everything is fine. I do not drive the car today. My question: is this a problem with the battery or the electric line? When the "battery" light is on, can i conclude it's a problem limited to the electric line only rather than a fuel line. My car is Chevy Malibu, 1999, with 90,000 mileages on it.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2002 Chevy S10 ZR2 4x4, the transmission will shift through 1st and 2nd gear up to 30mph then will not shift anymore. I have notice if you are easy on the gas you make get lucky to shift into 3rd, but the transmission downshifts to 2nd and only 30mph. I've tried shifting into 3rd manually, if the rpm is high it will not shift into 3rd but if they're low it will shift and if you press the accelerator just a little harder it will shift back to second and speed will drop to 30mph. I've changed transmission fluid and filter. The fluid was dark. I put DEX VI transmission fluid back in. Problem still exist.
I just have so much to explain and not sure how. I bought this truck from a person who bought this truck brand new in 2002. He was always kept the truck maintenance but he said he has never changed the transmission fluid. The truck has 276,000 miles but they are mostly highway miles from driving from NC to DC and back. I can assure you guys this truck hasn't been "dogged". I read one forum and someone said to changed the ignition switch wire harness. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it, but I only seen one person say that and I'm not sure if it works.
i have a 1982 chevy 1500 4x4 with a 700R4 and it has never give me any problems at all has always shifted firm and smooth goes instantly in to drive and reverse. One day last week i got in and the truck will not shift in to second actually wont come out of first the reverse still works fine and the first is still fine it does not slip or hesitate at all. I pulled the gear cover off and can spin it!
View 8 RepliesJust had car in for inspection/oil change. now car starts but can't shift out of park and no horn, brake lights, radio, gas gauge, odometer, etc.
View 2 RepliesHow to fix a gear shift that tends to get stuck once in awhile. What about WD, and how would you apply it? I have a '97 Monte Carlo.
View 2 RepliesMy 2005 Impala will have from time to time a hard shift where there is a big clunk_usually 1st gear. I had it at a transmission shop last year and they could not find anything wrong. What is going on.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2010 Chevy 1500 extended cab. For a few years it was a daily driver. It has 54000 miles. For the last 1.5 years I have been driving a company vehicle so my truck sits a lot and usually only gets driven once a week when I'm off running errands and such. Recently if I drive it just around town a few miles here and there, everything is fine. But if I drive it to a farther location say 20-30 minutes away the truck will start to shift extremely hard into second gear from first to second. The first time it happened I though I got rear ended by another car only to look around and no one was behind me. I wouldnt think the trans. would be going out at 54000 miles.
View 5 RepliesI recently bought a 2001 Chevy Cavalier with 85,000 miles in October 2014. Since that time, I've fixed the brakes, done emissions testing, etc. But recently the car started to act funny: the trac off and engine light would appear and then the shift between 1 / 2 gear or 2 / 3 would rev up high. I'd stop, pull over, turn off, turn on, and then continue. I was worried, so I took and the mechanic changed the transmission fluid.
However, the problem is getting worse. I was driving, the trac off and engine light came on, and about 30-secs later the oil and battery light appear and the car shuts off. I took it back in and they ran tests to check it, but what the problem could be. I don't drive my car very frequently, mostly weekends to visit my family who live about an hour 1/2 from me. But so far every time I drive it, the car stops.
Some suggestions I've heard:-- low fuel injection?-- wheel speed sensors
My 2002 mini 6-speed stick licks to get stuck in the I park it in when its cold. After driving in that gear for 4 minutes it warms up and let's loose.
View 2 RepliesNo problems and then at 82000 with no warning, the clutch froze and wouldn't go into gear. I coasted into the dealer and learned, after analysis, that one spring had broken. The clutch still had 40% on it, but one spring had snapped. I saw it. They replaced with a Honda Clutch disk with new pilot bushing, throw-out bearing, rear main seal, pressure plate, and manual transmission fluid. This description is taken from the invoice.
So, my question is, could my driving have caused this? A friend, the other day, said I am waiting too long to shift to 2nd and it could cause the problem, he thought. I usual shift around 3000, but now am shifting from 1st to 2nd at 15mph per manual. I thought the only problem with delaying shifting was poor gas mileage, as long as I didn't go into red, which I don't. I want to prolong the life of this new clutch and want to make sure I am treating it gently.
I have a 2000 Malibu which started playing up a year ago just after I bought it. The starting became harder and harder the warmer she got, this became worse over time to the point the battery drained completely and the thing wouldn't start. A jump got it going but the battery wasn't charging from the alternator. Replacement battery and alternator solved this first problem, I thought.
Five months later she starts getting harder and harder to start again. This time I got to the mall 2 miles from home, stopped to shop, got back in and she was dead. Ok, slap on the charger...nothing. Ok, called Son and slapped the jump leads on, nothing. Called tow truck who also tried a jump, nothing. I'm wondering starter, solenoid, fuel pressure regulator, ECM, what!?
The other problem is, when it drives, around 28000 revs it hunts and dips up and down around 28000 revs. Also revving to 4000 it dies, but picks back up again and revs, hits 4000 dies and so on. Lastly, often when sitting at lights she fluctuates around 7000 revs and occasionally dies.