Chevrolet - Malibu :: 1999 - Coolant Levels Drop Quickly And Car Overheating
Feb 3, 2013
I drive a 1999 Chevy Malibu. My car overheated the other day so I pulled over and realized the overflow was bone dry. So I added water and finished my trip. By the time I got there the car was overheating again and the overflow was again empty. I have changed the water pump, the thermostat, and the overflow cap. Whats happening now is when I crank it the car Idles fine until it gets warm, then steam starts to come out of the overflow hose coming from the cap. If I drive it not only steam but all my coolant just starts pouring out of this thing. I was told this might mean a busted head, but there is no coolant in my oil or water coming out of my exhaust.
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I have a 99 S10 4.3 2wd. Last week on a 5-6 mile drive it overheated, and it turns out the coolant was somehow almost a gallon low! I topped it off and all was well for nearly a week. This weekend I was driving and suddenly could smell a strong coolant odor. The temp gauge began to spike and when i pulled over and popped the hood it was clear the coolant was finding its way out but not through the overflow or radiator. When it cooled down and I added water/coolant I could see the coolant coming from the block or near the block. Also, when I let it run for a few minutes i could see the fluid "spraying" out from what appears to be near the pass. side valve cover maybe near the intake manifold...The oil looks good, so I'm not sure it's the head gasket. Not sure where to go with this.
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I bought a 2001 chevy malibu about a month and a half ago.when I test drove it,didnt notice any problems or leaks...after driving it for a 2 weeks...the brake pedal would drop to the floor while driving and then if I hit it again real quick it would be ok...this problem would happen now and then....we replaced the right front caliper thinking that it was sticking and bled all the brakes..There was air in the system..everything was fine for about two more weeks then while driving the pedal would get hard when applied and then drop again..not all the way to the floor,and it alternates that way..what are your thoughts? I don't have much money to fix this problem.
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I have a Chevy 2006 Malibu LT V6 and when i first got the car a year ago I had no problems. After a few months, I would fill up the tank up completely and then drive it around and stop at a stop light. The gas meter would drop from Full to Empty with the light coming on then reset itself. It happened sparingly so I thought nothing of it. Now just a few days ago I filled the tank up and now the gauge is staying at Full when I know for a fact that I do not have a full tank. Whenever I turn on the car, the gas gauge needle jumps from full to empty to half to full to quarter until ending at full. Lately, I've been trying to go off the fuel mileage on my radio but with that resetting to what my fuel gauge says I'm getting fearful of running out of gas.
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I have an 01 mailibu that keeps overheating. I have replaced the water pump (twice) and had the thermostat replaced. The water pump and thermostat were replaced about a month ago. Last night while driving, i noticed the temp getting higher, so I turned on the heat, and instead of hot air, it was ice cold. What it could be?
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My 2001 Chevy Malibu overheated on the freeway the other day. I bought hey thermostat but I don't know if it is the water pump or not. Is there any way to tell without going through the elimination process?
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I drive a 1999 Malibu 6 cylinder M 3.1L, and this past week it has had a big issue. I noticed when driving to work that it started to heat higher than normal, then drop back down to a normal temp. It kept getting worse and almost overheating, so I went and bought a new thermostat (as I was told that was probably the issue) and a new radiator cap since I knew mine was old and leaked a little bit. Before putting the thermostat in, I had a neighbor look at it, and found some gunk in the coolant tank.
I took it in to get a coolant flush, but when I told the guy at the shop what I found, he told me that because these Chevy's used dexcool, if any other coolant was used, it would gel and therefore start clogging my system and that a flush would do nothing, and that I was looking at a repair that would be more than I was willing to pay.
My question for all of you is should I still go in to get someone to really look at it, get it flushed and put the new thermostat in? Or is the situation that the last mechanic presented probably the issue? I'm pretty broke, and don't want to spend money that I don't have to. But, if $100 will allow my car to run for awhile longer, I would rather do that then have it sit and die while I take the bus.
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My 1994 chevy cavalier is overheating mainly on hot days and when I work the engine hard. My coolant level hasn't dropped in a long time and the coolant cap is usually dry. I replaced the thermostat and checked the radiator hoses. They seem to be fine. My engine is leaking coolant.
(See photo) : IMG_2308.JPG3024x4032 2.61 MB
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My 2011 is at 45k miles now and I've just noticed that my radiator coolant is just under the 'low' mark and my inverter coolant is on the 'low' line. I've had all regular maintenance done, never done any of it myself just because I'm not confident enough in myself to think I won't mess something up. Should I be concerned about having 'low' coolant levels?
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Started having problems with my Chevy Malibu (1999, with 95,000 miles on it) while driving two times this week. Both times an alert warning flashed on my dashboard. The first time, flashed the brake check and ABS warning on the left side of the dashboard, and the second time the check oil and check battery warning on the right side. In both cases, after the warnings flashed, the car was still running, but stepping on the gas pedal resulted in no acceleration, but brakes still worked. The steering wheel also locks-up to the point where I can't turn any more. Both times, I stopped and shut off the engine, waited about 30 seconds and restarted, after which everything is fine and normal. The brake pads were changed recently, but not the rotors which may not be in very good shape.
I took the car to garage and found the belt is good, but I have replaced both the alternator and battery, and also changed the brake pads. Car ran fine for a day. Yesterday while driving, had another issue of the accelerator not working while in the middle of driving. Was going up a small hill, tried to accelerate, but stepping on the accelerator didn't do anything. A few seconds later, I could not press down on the pedal anymore (as if the car was off). Brakes worked, I could turn, and no warning lights. Turned off ignition, restarted the car, and everything was fine. Same problem with the accelerator as I first reported, but no problem with charging or turning the wheel, and no warning lights since the alternator and battery are new.
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I have a 1999 chevy malibu with a 2005 chevy impala motor in it. Recently I put my car into reverse and it made a hard clunk and went into reverse. Later on that day I tried to go into reverse and it will not reverse. I had to have 3 people push my car back in neutral. However, in neutral I am able to press on the gas and drive forward... This is an automatic transmission. Am I just screwed and need a brand new transmission?
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I see it's been 7 months since my daughters last oil change, yet the car has just over 1000 miles since the last oil change. I'm wondering if I should change it for good measure or wait ( it's a 1999 chevy malibu)....
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It is an automatic. (1999 Malibu) . Is it possible for a car to start but the gear shift to be frozen?
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I didn't realize the 6.7 had two places that you need to monitor your coolant level. I've kept an eye on my coolant reservoir for the rad due to radiator failures reported but just today noticed there was another one for the intercooler. Mine was quite low. I'm sure most of you knew it was there but for those that didn't, keep that baby topped up I can't imagine having a hot intercooler is good.
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When I tried to turn left yesterday, my car suddenly stopped with both the "check engine" light and "battery" light on, but the heat, headlights and radio were working just fine. I turned off the engine, and waiting a few minutes, ad then restarted the car, and everything is fine. I do not drive the car today. My question: is this a problem with the battery or the electric line? When the "battery" light is on, can i conclude it's a problem limited to the electric line only rather than a fuel line. My car is Chevy Malibu, 1999, with 90,000 mileages on it.
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My 99' Venture is leaking antifreeze and was overheating. Ok, so I figure it's something as simple as replace the radiator cap or something. My mechanic says it looks like my manifold gasket is due to be changed AGAIN. If I had one going into the other then I could see why we're talking oil when I'm talking antifreeze. I parked the car cause I have a second car. So the Van sits for 3 months and leaks into the pan I put to protect my driveway.
I could probably have filled a quart container with the puddle created. It looks Orange so yes it's antifreeze and yes it's SLIGHTLY milky when you shake it around. It doesn't show any sign of oil. BUT when I check the oil on the dipstick it's perfectly fine. The car wouldn't start so you'd say jump it right? Did that and nothing, bought a brand new battery still nothing. So I had it towed to a Mechanic. If he can't find it I'm going to plan B, let the dealer diagnose it, get a quote and take it from there.
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I have a 2002 Volkswagen Golf 2.0, I was driving and the temperature gauge starting raising pretty quickly. I stopped, checked the coolant and oil, both were at normal levels. The car cooled down pretty quickly, and I drove a little and it raised again. The heat is coming out cold despite the hot temperature. Overheating, normal coolant levels, no heat.
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My car leaks water/coolant when off, the other day it was overheating but it had plenty of water in it, it seems to struggle when going up hill, also when i use blinkers sometimes it makes a loud buzzing noise and wont work, happens sporadically...
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I have a 2008 6.4 f-250. It has 139,00 Miles and I have a problem with the truck losing coolant and overheating on the interstate. When cruising 75-80 my truck will sometimes begin to puke coolant from the degas bottle and my cooling fan will begin to run. Engine coolant temp once spiked to 240 degrees before I could get off onto the shoulder. Around town the truck does fine although I do notice a loss of coolant but no overheating issues what so ever. I have the Dpf Deleted and Egr coolers are off. I run an H+S on a mild tune. Is there any other thing that could be wrong with this truck besides head gaskets? I am not looking forward flipping that bill. Trying the exhaust all other possibilities first.
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I am a newbie as far as fuel injection. The original issue the truck had was no fuel. I tracked down the issues to a blown fuel pump relay and a melted inertia switch. I jumped the inertia wires with a new fuel pump relay installed and the truck ran at an idle and up to 3500 RPM when stationary. If the truck is going up a grade or needs more throttle it will start to lose fuel pressure and end up stalling. I had the fuel pressure gauge connected to the schrader valve on the fuel rail and had 30-35 PSI when idling. It runs good under light load on the throttle.
Under heavy load it starts to drop quickly and if you back off the throttle it will stay running some times. I changed the fuel filter and also replaced the high pressure pump on the main frame and it still has the same problems.The original pump was pumping about 13 ounces of fuel in the 20 second test that the repair manual suggested. I have even placed a jumper wire direct to the new fuel pump to bypass original wiring and possible problems. When it stalls under load (No Fuel pressure) at the schrader valve you can hear the fuel pump running but there is no fuel pressure.
If I turn off the ignition for a few minutes and then turn the key back to the on position it will start to pressurize and then start and run at an idle. I even replace the ignition switch as it was a little temperamental. I have not changed or checked the fuel pressure regulator as it is a pain to get to at the back of the engine. I do not want to spend a fortune tracking down this problem since the truck may not even pass its smog inspection and may be a parts truck only.
67 F-250 4x4
73 Crew 4x2 (4x4 Soon)
89 F-250 Super Cab 4x4
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I can see where coolant has leaked out from underneath and come out the sides of the motor beneath the intake gasket.. probably a bad definition but yall probably know what i mean.. i know its a common 3100 motor problem.
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