Chevrolet - Malibu :: 1997 - Back Door Window Won't Go Down Unless Push It
Aug 4, 2013
I have a 97 malibu w the 3.1, the back driver side door window wont go down unless i push it down, if I only use the switch i hear the motor working it appears it came out of the track that operates it. I would like to know how i can repair this myself.
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I have a 2002 Chevy Malibu. The passenger rear power window wont go up or down. Other windows are fine. I push the buttons from the rear door and the main control from the drivers door and nothing happens. I don't hear the window motor or anything going on while I push those buttons. I opened up the door panel and window regulator and motor seem fine. Connectors seem fine also.
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2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500... When slowing down for stop, when almost stopped, sometimes the brake pedal pushes back momentarily, makes a bit of a (errrr) noise, and for two or three seconds during the push back the brakes do not work. Mechanic has cleaned ABS wheel sensors. All brake pads are good. The truck computer shows all systems okay. All brake lines are new or one year old.
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I own a 2005 Chevrolet Malibu and am having issues with the driver's door not being able to close. I live in Michigan currently, and the weather here is very cold. When I first start my car in the morning, the door will not latch to the car. It just bounces back after you pull it closed. However, when I get to my destination, whether it is 15 min away or 45 min away, my car door will close. I've tried WD40 on the latch thingy to work with lubrication, but it is to no avail.
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2005 Chevy Malibu
When the driver side door is opened there is a clunk sound about half way through the swing. When the door is closed there is a couple clunks then a thud. The sound is coming from the front of the door.
What is causing this and does it mean big trouble soon?
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Alright, when I first crank the car I get a thump on the passenger side. Sounds like something to do with the a/c. It's having multiple misfires and dies at idle when I stop at a red light. It idles horrible all the time. It acts differently depending on how much gas is in it. If its full it runs great but as soon as it hits 3/4 of a tank it all goes down hill and starts shaking. The low coolant light flicks on and off too. The coolant has been going pretty fast out of the reserve tank. I had the radiator flushed and it worked with that a little bit. I replaced spark plugs and the temperature sensor already. What is my next move? Or what does it sound like?
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Car Stats: 2005 Chevy Malibu, Automatic
Just recently while driving my car at a normal speed...(Like 55mph wanted to speed up gradually to 60mph) ..I will push the accelerator and my car wont go any faster. It will act like it is switching to passing gear and then the engine will rev up, the car will lurch forward and then it will finally take off. The RPM's also will increase and then suddenly drop back down to normal.
Also I think this is related to the problem. .... but... when I put the car in the low gear to where I can manually shift it to first second and third. It used to automatically be in the 1st gear... but now it will show up in the third gear and you cannot shift into any other gear.
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2003 Camry XLE - Power Window/Door Lock. does these switches have back lighting? None of the four door switch controls light up even with the dimmer turned up full.
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I'm at a complete loss, My drivers side back door has stopped working, Alarm, window and lock, I've checked my fuses, and it seems i only have 3 doors in the fuse box, what are the numbers to the door fuses in the box.
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I am trying to keep driving my Astro until I pay off my wife's new car. Repairing the door shouldn't be a problem if I could get the door open to remove the inside door panel. How to get the door open? Can't use the inside or outside handle now.
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I have a 1997 Chevy Blazer. I have had issues where I could not start my truck and determined it could be the battery. After checking alternator, battery, and starter I was told that all were good. Cleaning terminals did not fix problem. I got a new battery. So I have determined that a power drain is going on somewhere. I have now found that when I shift the transmission from drive to reverse or vice versa that the rear hatch window comes open. As I shift the gear I hear the latch popping behind me. Now I have determined that there is a short somewhere and this could be the cause of my power drain. What I need to know is where to start looking for the default and how to fix my problem.
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The window just stopped working. Everything was fine, then all of a sudden it quit! What could it be and how can I fix it? I checked for a fuse, everything appears ok. Its 1997 Cavalier. Its 15°F here and it would be nice to not have to drive with the window down.
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I have a 1997 Astro van and recently I shut the back doors (two door version) and now they will not open/unlock. I tried the power locks as well as the key. I read where you can take off the speaker cover in the door and reach thru and unlock/release from there. That did not work either. Not sure WHY Chevy decided not to put interior release handles. Any trick to opening the doors so I can see what the problem is?
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My diesel suburban dies while driving. It starts right back up. I have changed the fuel filter and checked for water in fuel.
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My driver's door power window motor stopped working. Replaced motor (Dorman). New motor was shaky and wouldn't stop when going down. Replaced motor again (Dorman), same thing. Regulator became damaged, replaced (Dorman), smoother, still won't stop with auto button, or holding down button. At some point glass came out of regulator and track. Replaced glass. Window goes up and down smoothly, but just doesn't stop when going down and tries to keep going. I don't see a limit switch or circuit for it. I see there is a relay and a fuse for the auto down. What tells the motor to stop driving current?
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Well I can and I wonder if this is normal as I can push my treg when it is off and in park [parking brake off of course] about 6 inches. It will rock back and forth, is this normal ?? I ask as I also have clunking in my drive train that the stealership says is normal. And I have 70k miles but this has been going on since 30k miles.
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(That was my first mistake). He did it in his garage and everything seemed fine. Then about 2 weeks later I noticed that when I pushed in the clutch to shift gears it would come out of gear fine but, did not want to go into gear without a wrestling match between me and the gear shift. It didn't grind or make any noise it just refused to go into gear like I was pushing and some invisible wall had dropped preventing it from going back into gear. It doesn't always do it. I have noticed no pattern in when it does it.
Sometimes Ive been driving a while and it starts, other times I just started the car and within minutes of driving down the road it starts refusing to shift back into gear. I have noticed when It gets really bad I hear and feel this thumping or banging when I push the clutch in. When I pump the clutch a few times, sometimes this works to get it back into gear. At times it is so hard to put back into gear that I have had to use both hands on the clutch to force it into gear.? I have discussed this with some people they think it is my "pressure plate" (what ever that is). I do know that when the guy put the new clutch in he was not able to polish something down? The new clutch was installed about may 2012.
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I have an '02 malibu that got hot and now won't start I have pulled the plugs and there isn't any water in the cyliders. And none in the oil, what to check next?
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When I take my car in to have an oil change/checkup the garage tells me my wheels need to be balanced. However I do not have any indication that I need wheel balancing. The tires do not show unusual wear, there is no shaking while driving in the city, nor when on an expressway driving from 40 to 70 MPH. Is it possible I really need to balance the wheels?
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I have a 2003 Chevrolet Malibu LS.
The bulb for the parking light on the right headlight doesn't come on, it only comes on when the turning signal is activated. I'm not sure if it's the bulb or the fuse? If it's the fuse, do I need to buy electrical gloves and disconnect the battery before I "operate".
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I have a 2000 Chevy Malibu (187K mi). Last year I was driving to work (24 mi one way) and noticed when I came to a stoplight the car seemed to be really hard to stop. When the light turned green and I let off the brake, it jumped forward pretty hard then continued on the way. Once I got to the parking lot and put it in to park, the RPM's went WAY up to around 3K the second I put it in park. It did this on and off for a week or so, one time getting so high in park I was scared to drive it. It was really sporadic. It quit for a day or two, then started again. I finally took it to a transmission shop...a national chain that is supposed to be good.
After 2 weeks they still didn't know what was wrong, charged me $500 for looking at it...didn't fix ANYTHING and it's been fine for almost a year. The only thing they charged me for was hooking it up to their computer and doing diagnostics. They said they were going to have someone test each wire one by one because it was showing a computer malfunction. However they did not actually do any work on the car. Just tests. I got it back and it worked fine for some reason. Now it's started to do it again. Rev'd really high, up to 2K when I put it in park last night..but today it's been fine. What could this be, and who do I trust?
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