Chevrolet - Lumina :: 1998 - Knocking / Bouncing Sound In The Right Rear Wheel Well When Brake
Nov 12, 2014
My 98 lumina seems to make a knocking/bouncing sound in the right rear wheel well when I brake. It never happens when I'm braking driving in the city (25 mph or so) but it happens when I'm closer to 40mph and up.
I thought it might've been a drum brake issue but I just had the brakes serviced about two or three weeks ago. It still does it. This isn't a new issue. It's something that's been going on for years.
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The last time I had my car serviced, the mechanic told me that while it wasn't a pressing issue, my power steering pump was starting to go. Lo and behold, it's that time. I started to notice that while idling I hear a dry, raspy sound coming from the engine. I left the car on, opened the hood, and it's definitely something spun by the belt. I'm 99% sure it's the power steering pump, so I'm going to replace it. Furthermore, do I need to "bleed" the lines? How does one go about doing that, anyhow?
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For the last couple of weeks I've had a clunking sound coming from the right rear end of my 1997 Lumina when I drive over bumps. Took it to a garage the other day and discovered that the area around the right rear shock (strut?) mount is severely rusted. I assume that other probably causes were checked, but the mechanic was suggesting that this was the reason for the noises I've been hearing. From what I saw, and what the mechanic said, the shock mount is integrated into the wheel well of the vehicle. There's little good metal left in order to support the shock and coil spring, so obviously this situation needs to be addressed, but can this really be the source of the noise? His idea of a fix was that I would have to find a donor car with good metal and use that to replace the rusted wheel well on mine. Not something that his shop can do, but I'm sure there are others in my area that can.
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When I release it then start in reverse often the car doesn't move then there is a loud sound from the right rear tire. If I don't engage the brake it reverse fine.I don't know where to start with this. I assume there is a cable going back to the wheel cylinders. Perhaps binding up somehow.
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My 98 chevy luminas service engine light came on after I got gas. I put vaseline around the threads to seal it and the light went out for 2 days and then came on again. I bought a new cap and the same thing happened, two days light out than back on. I took the car to Autozone and did a diagnostics test which came back with error message P0341, then took it a mechanic who ran his on diagnostics on it and he says the camshaft sensor needs changed. It is a semi expensive job for an older car and I want to be sure that that is the problem, plus the gas cap thing has me confused.
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We recently had a flash flood. No big deal, I was meaning to buy a shot vac anyways.
Anyways, the day after I started using my car, and noticed that my seat belt warning light stayed on, even when I was wearing it. Same went for the "Airbag" light. A couple of days later, the seat belt light start doing what it was supposed to; it would go off once the belt was "clicked". The airbag light has been on for some time. I figured I'd stop in to autozone and see if they couldn't check a code for me, but the nice gal behind the counter said they can only scan CHECK Engine/Service Engine lights. The airbag light, literally just the word "airbag" illuminated in red has been on for about two weeks now.
I imagine the flash food was nice enough to leave me with a shorted wire somewhere, but how to troubleshoot it.
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I have a 96 chevy lumina. My brake lights will not come on. My 3rd will not either. I have changed the bulbs, checked the fuses, checked and replaced my brake light switch in my brake pedal with no success. I have half of my dash lights so I am thinking maybe a short?? I have my tail lights, but no brake lights.
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Two days ago, I brought my 1995 Chevy Lumina to my repair shop I've been doing business with for years...they replaced an A/C compressor, oil change and flushed the sludge. Now today, this morning, I crank it up and the steering wheel is almost impossible to turn...making it almost impossible to drive and unsafe to attempt. My plan is to call them tomorrow and have them tow it and inspect...another expense. This car has been a fabulous 2nd vehicle with 155K miles on it...I'd like to keep it, but might have to exercise other options if the cost/benefit ratio is out of whack.
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Have a 1999 Chevy Lumina. Brake lights do not work and neither do the blinkers. Changed bulbs, fuses are okay, changed flasher module.
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I have a '99 Lumina and a few weeks ago lost all sound from the stock radio. It powers up and everything else appears to be working normally, but I get no sound at any volume level. All the fuses seem fine, as does the antenna connection. I also tried grounding the radio to the chassis, but with no luck. This weekend I went to the local scrap yard and pulled three stock radios from three similar Luminas ('96, '98 and '99) with no real success. One radio produced sound, but constantly went from low to ear-blastingly loud; the one from the '99 behaved just like my current radio; the final one played normally for about one second and then faded to an almost imperceptible level. I checked online and all three cars show the same radio wiring harness, though I can't rule out the possibility GM changed the wiring just enough between each model year to cause those issues. I don't mind putting in a new radio if it fixes the problem, but don't want to spend the money if my trouble is actually in the car itself.
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I'm hearing a muffled thump in the center rear of my '97 Lumina about 2 minutes after I turn off the engine. It comes in a series of 2 thumps. This started about a week ago and now the thumping is occurring when I'm in a slow idle--just a series of two thumps. Maybe it's releasing pressure? What this could be?
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I have a 1998 E39 535i that has a knocking sound coming from the front right wheel area. The noise can be heard mainly at low speeds and when touching the brake (not only when touching the brake though). It sounds like a load of golf balls rattling around in the bottom of a golf bag.
The car has been to BMW who changed discs and pads to no effect and in the last week I have taken it to an independent mechanic who cannot find anything wrong with the brakes or wheel bearings.
I have been assured that the sound is not dangerous but it is driving me up the wall! I should also mention that it only seems to occur when the vehicle is warm.
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l have a 98 s10 with the "x" code 4.3l. While driving the cel started flashing and it lost all power. after got home i scanned the codes and revealed a MAF sensor error. replaced the maf sensor, which did not work. Then replaced the cap, rotor, and wires as they were burned through. This made the truck run fine when given gas, but makes a knocking sound at idle and stalls.
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I have a 2000 Monte Carlo. I recently noticed a knocking sound in the driver side wheel area whenever I pull off or make turns. My mechanic said it was my rack & pinion bushing & that the whole rack had to be replaced, I just had it replaced last yr. So I get it replaced & it's still making the noise. Brakes & rotors were replaced in March as well the struts. The tie rods were replaced last in 2014. I don't know what to do now. What I can do?
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1998 Honda Civic EX, automatic transmission, 145K miles. Purchased three weeks ago.
Newly purchased used car has a knock emanating from the left front axle area. It's a rotational thumping/knocking sound that occurs about every 360 degrees of the tire rotation and only in forward and backward full-lock left turns. The car also has a small vibration/wobble in the left front. It's been narrowed down to the CV half axle outer bearing. What is puzzling is left front knocking from the outer CV joint is usually associated with full-lock right turns (and vice-versa) However, the left front knocking/thumping only happens as stated above (full-lock left turns).
Recent front end parts replaced:
1) Left front hub assembly and bearing
2) Inner and outer tie rods on both left and right sides
3) Front left caliper
4) New front brake pads on both left and right sides
5) Automatic transmission 3 x 3 drain and fill + Lubegard red
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My 2003 chevy malibu suddenly started making a terrible knocking sound, like the sound a can of spray paint makes when you shake it- only much louder. A couple of weeks the oil light went on very briefly when i used the brakes. The oil change place was closed so I added a couple of quarts after checking the level (i waited after the engine was shut off for an hour, there was a little oil on the dipstick but definitely needed more). After adding the oil and letting it settle it was at the appropriate notch per the owners guide. A couple of days ago, I bought gas at a station I dont normally use. The car was driven approximately 40 miles after fill up and before the noise started.
I took the car to get the oil change and was advised to get it checked if the sound didn't go away in a day. The auto place says their diagnostic tool won't work if my check engine light isn't on. Its not, and has never lit up. What to do next...I assume I shouldn't drive it anywhere. I remember reading bad gas can cause this sound, or a bad Co sensor (?) I am praying the oil light doesn't come on when it's already too late!
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Looking for a diagram on 1997 S10, 2.2 timing settings? If timing is off, will the engine sound as if the bearings are knocking somewhat? I installed a new crankshaft and new bearings. Also do the ignition coils usually go bad? Should the #1 cylinder be on the compression stroke?
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It is a 2002 or 2003 Chevy truck with a diesel engine. He was going down the road the other day under normal driving conditions when the motor made a racket and then white smoke started coming out of the back like a chimney. The truck will still crank and run (and smoke), and now there is a knocking or tapping noise that is coming from the engine. The engine is running kind of rough, and has the tapping or knocking sound, but it will calm down for 1/2 a second at which time the rough idle and noise stop, but quickly return. There is no engine code showing, so my code reader is useless. I once had a Chevy 350 with a spun main bearing that sounds similar, but the motor didn't idle rough or smoke. I don't know enough about diesel engines. I was told there was a possibility of a bad injector pump or bad injector itself. Is there any way of testing this yourself, or does it require a shop trip?
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I just replaced my stock shocks with Bilstein HDs. I am using the stock springs.When going around a continuous right bend , like an exit off ramp, there is a knocking sound coming from the driver side front wheel area. The sound is present only when not accelerating (foot off the gas) the knocking sound stopped once the accelerator is pressed.
I replaced the rubber upper mount and bushing when I installed the shocks, and I have checked that everything is tight. Is the problem the cv joint? I did not have this problem before I changed the shocks. I searched this subject, but no one has described exactly what I have observed.
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I have been hearing a knocking sound from rear passenger side wheel. My car is a Toyota Solara 2007 with 87k miles on it, tires were changed last week so the issue is not with the tire. I have attached the video url. Why am I hearing this noise. The noise starts after I drive for some distance (15-20 miles), it does not start as soon as I start driving.
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I just started hearing sort of a howling noise from front end of my 98 cavalier. I also feel a bit of a grinding sensation through my wheel when I start slowing down. I lifted the front tires one by one, checked the play, there's a little on left side and couldn't really feel anything on the right side. I then put the vehicle in neutral and then spun the tires by hand. The right tire spun with ease and the left side was a bit harder to spin. Just wondering if it is the bearings wearing out or if it could be cv joint problems. I also did check the boots on the cv joints for cracks in them but couldn't find anything wrong.
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