Chevrolet - Lumina :: 1997 - Clunking Sound From Rear End
Oct 13, 2014
For the last couple of weeks I've had a clunking sound coming from the right rear end of my 1997 Lumina when I drive over bumps. Took it to a garage the other day and discovered that the area around the right rear shock (strut?) mount is severely rusted. I assume that other probably causes were checked, but the mechanic was suggesting that this was the reason for the noises I've been hearing. From what I saw, and what the mechanic said, the shock mount is integrated into the wheel well of the vehicle. There's little good metal left in order to support the shock and coil spring, so obviously this situation needs to be addressed, but can this really be the source of the noise? His idea of a fix was that I would have to find a donor car with good metal and use that to replace the rusted wheel well on mine. Not something that his shop can do, but I'm sure there are others in my area that can.
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I'm hearing a muffled thump in the center rear of my '97 Lumina about 2 minutes after I turn off the engine. It comes in a series of 2 thumps. This started about a week ago and now the thumping is occurring when I'm in a slow idle--just a series of two thumps. Maybe it's releasing pressure? What this could be?
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My 98 lumina seems to make a knocking/bouncing sound in the right rear wheel well when I brake. It never happens when I'm braking driving in the city (25 mph or so) but it happens when I'm closer to 40mph and up.
I thought it might've been a drum brake issue but I just had the brakes serviced about two or three weeks ago. It still does it. This isn't a new issue. It's something that's been going on for years.
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I have 30k on my 97 Chevy Lumina. there is so much vacuum in the gas tank that it crushed the tank. I have replaced the tank but don't know what the problem is. Have taken it to three different shops and got three different opinions. One shop replaced the purge solenoid, no luck. Another said there is no fuel tank pressure data and want to drop the tank and check the sensor. the error code they read is p0440. The other replaced the evap canister. Am driving without the gas cap to protect new tank.I don't want to pay for another unnecessary repair and am sure I can repair it myself but want to be cartain I have it right. Also I didn't realize there was a pressure sensor in the tank. They also said I could have a restricted vent valve or canister.
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My security light is on in my car and I can not crank my car. What do I do?
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My check engine light keeps coming on. I've had a couple of mechanics look at this and they say the code indicates the transmission is going out. the transmissions does not slip or have any signs of going out.
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The last time I had my car serviced, the mechanic told me that while it wasn't a pressing issue, my power steering pump was starting to go. Lo and behold, it's that time. I started to notice that while idling I hear a dry, raspy sound coming from the engine. I left the car on, opened the hood, and it's definitely something spun by the belt. I'm 99% sure it's the power steering pump, so I'm going to replace it. Furthermore, do I need to "bleed" the lines? How does one go about doing that, anyhow?
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I have a '99 Lumina and a few weeks ago lost all sound from the stock radio. It powers up and everything else appears to be working normally, but I get no sound at any volume level. All the fuses seem fine, as does the antenna connection. I also tried grounding the radio to the chassis, but with no luck. This weekend I went to the local scrap yard and pulled three stock radios from three similar Luminas ('96, '98 and '99) with no real success. One radio produced sound, but constantly went from low to ear-blastingly loud; the one from the '99 behaved just like my current radio; the final one played normally for about one second and then faded to an almost imperceptible level. I checked online and all three cars show the same radio wiring harness, though I can't rule out the possibility GM changed the wiring just enough between each model year to cause those issues. I don't mind putting in a new radio if it fixes the problem, but don't want to spend the money if my trouble is actually in the car itself.
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Driver's side strut makes noise, been told by a mechanic it is nothing to worry about just the rubber mount on the strut. Makes noise when accelerating from a dead stop or sometimes turning. It is not a metallic sound. Can i get buy with changing the rubber mount on top of the strut or is it down in the strut itself so the strut needs to be replaced? 1997 Chevrolet Lumina car 4 door....
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I bought the car( like six months ago) there has always been a loud humming noise from the fuel pump ( I'm pretty sure it is the fuel pump anyways) not the normal whirring noise the fuel pump makes but a hum you can hear about ten feet away. Had no issues till just lately when the afternoons are well into a hundred degrees. That is when my car starts giving me issues. After one of these hot days on my ride home from work, I had just come off the highway and stopped at a stop light when I felt the engine bogging out, the engine stalled and I had to push it to the side of the road.
Its worth mentioning that this humming noise is much louder in the heat than the cool morning then when I turned the key to hear the fuel pump(auto fuel inject) it was louder than it has ever been, and would keep stalling on the way home, I had at the most a quarter tank of gas (gas boy is busted/stuck I think) the fuel pump is bad? Could it be the sock? I thought I read somewhere that my girl pump uses gas to cool down, and that having the tank any less than a quarter could lead to the fuel pump overheating????
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When I release it then start in reverse often the car doesn't move then there is a loud sound from the right rear tire. If I don't engage the brake it reverse fine.I don't know where to start with this. I assume there is a cable going back to the wheel cylinders. Perhaps binding up somehow.
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I have a '95 Chevy 6.5 Turbo-Diesel Pickup. The past few days there has been a whining noise that went up and down with the speed of the vehicle. I decided to have it looked at this coming week when I have a day off but when I was driving home last night the whining stopped and was replaced with a clunking. It sounds like a pair of running shoes that have been thrown in a clothes dryer. When it clunks loudly there is a shake that can be felt through the floor and seat. I now have it parked until I can find out what is going on and if it is safe to drive to the mechanic or if I should have it towed.
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My mechanic said clunking sound from rear of car is caused by watts link. He suggests replacing watts bell crank and upper and lower linkage. Do the two linkages need to be replaced since they appear to be metal rods.
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I have a 1997 explorer awd 4.0 sohc. have a problem when driving at 25 mph it makes a very loud clunk in drive train and will still make noise all the way to 60 mph. have pulled front drive line and rear drive line and drove and noise is still there I am guessing that its in the transfer case. I have also changed the gem module and had the drive lines checked for problems.
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What it is? Clunking sound from rear right area of car.
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My mechanic says clunking sound in rear is watts link. He suggests replace both upper/lower link and bellcrank. Since upper/lower links look like metal rods, do these need replacing ?
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I have a 2012 GT lowered on st coil overs. I'm getting a popping/clunking sound coming from the rear. It happens at random times. In turns, going over bumps, straight, and on flat surfaces. I thought it might be the dreaded subframe clunk so I got the Tyrol sport deadset rigid kit and that didn't work. I have tried raising and lowering the car with the coil over adjustments and it makes the noise still. I have also taken the rear coil overs completely off two times to inspect them and all mounts both times using new bolts and retorqued to spec. Also while i had them off I have jerked and pushed on everything they are attached to see if there is any play in anything. I see no signs of anything bumping or rubbing under the back end and the sound is getting worse.
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I have been getting a clunking sound coming from the rear of the car while braking. it was louder and more frequent before a few things were done by the dealership in an attempt to fix it, however i still have the noise fairly often during normal driving. This is three months into the issue and i still don't have a solution from the dealer or VW. Things that have been done so far by dealership:
1. replaced left and right side rear caliper brackets
2. replaced rear brake pads
3. surfaced rear rotors
All of the above were recommended by vw, according to the dealership. there are notes on the last invoice that the noise was described as "pad slap." everyone involved is acting as if this is a great unsolvable mystery, which seems ridiculous on a new car. i first came to the dealer with the problem with 512 miles on the car.
Just got the car back this past thursday from the dealearship, 2 and 3 from the list above were completed, and they were "unable to replicate noise" during a test drive. after driving around over the weekend i've confirmed that the noise is still present (though less loud and less frequent), and was able to capture it on video--after the turn signal turns off: [URL] ....
i'm not the most knowledgable or mechanically inclined when it comes to cars, so i don't really know what to think of this. google searches turn up that many people have issues with clunking sounds from floating calipers, some say that it's normal, other that it's not. this is my first new car, first car with floating calipers, first VW, so i feel i'm coming at this pretty blind.
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When going around 48mph clunking sound comes from rear end. seems like it does that when you are trying to maintain that speed. Also have had 7 window regulators to go bad on have 1 working window 4 bad now replaced the same one 3 times. Called Ford they said no complaints have come in about the window issue on 2004 trucks...
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I brought my 4runner in to fix a rear axle seal and to see if they could isolate a clunking noise I've been having. They said the clunking was coming from the rear differential (I believe him as that's what I heard, while driving or even just putting it into gear). They have yet to call me back, but any guesses here as to whether it is a bearing (my guess, as it is most pronounced on a bumpy road) or a cracked gear or something else. I've been driving with a clunk for about a week, but have various clunk problems for the last 80k miles ....
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Was having some clunking sounds coming from the rear end on the old F150. Bro in law said it was lack of gear lube and the rear diff grinding from the start. Wasn't the issue. U - joints are shot and causing the issue. My question is I marked the drive shashshaft and flange with a sharpie but it rubbed off on the flange from free spinning the rear end seeing if the issue was there. From the drive shashshaft to the rear diff flange does the flange need to be marked or no? I did scribe with a nail the transfer case and marked the drive shaft with sharpie. So is the flange being marked important or just the bracket with the u-joint? Would've used soap stone but don't have any on hand.
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