My check engine light keeps coming on. I've had a couple of mechanics look at this and they say the code indicates the transmission is going out. the transmissions does not slip or have any signs of going out.
View 4 RepliesMy security light is on in my car and I can not crank my car. What do I do?
View 1 RepliesThe last time I had my car serviced, the mechanic told me that while it wasn't a pressing issue, my power steering pump was starting to go. Lo and behold, it's that time. I started to notice that while idling I hear a dry, raspy sound coming from the engine. I left the car on, opened the hood, and it's definitely something spun by the belt. I'm 99% sure it's the power steering pump, so I'm going to replace it. Furthermore, do I need to "bleed" the lines? How does one go about doing that, anyhow?
View 13 RepliesWent in due to the check engine light coming on and found out I had a oil leak in both oil cooler lines they wanted to charge me 350 per line and 200 for labor which brings the total to 900. Are they over charging me if not is there a cheaper fix for them? 2007 impala 3900 v6....
View 7 RepliesI have a '95 'vette LT1 that I bought new for my 50th birthday. I only drive it about 4-500 (yes - hundred) miles a year and for the most part it sits in the garage, gets washed and waxed, and put away. 51000 original miles, the first 40000 put on in the first 1 1/2 years. I've had an ignition and fuel injection problem since I bought it. Get's fixed then some new ignition/injection problem comes back. Here's what it does now: car starts fine, runs about 30 seconds with no problem, then starts to miss, runs very rough and very rich (can smell it in the exhaust). After about 3 minutes, the engine smooths out and 2 seconds later, the "check engine" light comes on and the cooling fan starts to run. It runs fine for about 5 minutes, then "check engine" light goes out, fan stops, starts to run rough, misses, gas mileage (per the dash display) goes to about 5 mpg, runs rich, etc. Then the cycle starts again with the "check engine" light and fan coming on and the car running fine. I have no clue.
View 6 Replies1998 base lumina 3.1 litre. 240,000 miles.
Usually runs great. Burns almost no oil between oil changes. Most recent change was about 3500 miles ago.
Yesterday when I checked the dip stick it had just a little oil showing on the bottom of the dip stick. I ran the motor and checked it a few more times. same thing. Then I put about 2.5 quarts in it and drove about 25 miles.
Then when I checked it appeared to have about 2 quarts too much on the dip stick. Would a bad oil filter cause that or what? Check engine light is on. Auto Zone says the "EGR" is messed up.
I changed the oil and filter today and the stick level looks ok now. I did notice the used oil was very dirty.
My 98 chevy luminas service engine light came on after I got gas. I put vaseline around the threads to seal it and the light went out for 2 days and then came on again. I bought a new cap and the same thing happened, two days light out than back on. I took the car to Autozone and did a diagnostics test which came back with error message P0341, then took it a mechanic who ran his on diagnostics on it and he says the camshaft sensor needs changed. It is a semi expensive job for an older car and I want to be sure that that is the problem, plus the gas cap thing has me confused.
View 7 RepliesSo the only thing I have changed is the fuel pressure regulator. Man after I did that my cars been running super, even has some added pick me up on acceleration!
So today my check engine light comes on and I get this code???? P0240...
I have 30k on my 97 Chevy Lumina. there is so much vacuum in the gas tank that it crushed the tank. I have replaced the tank but don't know what the problem is. Have taken it to three different shops and got three different opinions. One shop replaced the purge solenoid, no luck. Another said there is no fuel tank pressure data and want to drop the tank and check the sensor. the error code they read is p0440. The other replaced the evap canister. Am driving without the gas cap to protect new tank.I don't want to pay for another unnecessary repair and am sure I can repair it myself but want to be cartain I have it right. Also I didn't realize there was a pressure sensor in the tank. They also said I could have a restricted vent valve or canister.
View 4 RepliesFor the last couple of weeks I've had a clunking sound coming from the right rear end of my 1997 Lumina when I drive over bumps. Took it to a garage the other day and discovered that the area around the right rear shock (strut?) mount is severely rusted. I assume that other probably causes were checked, but the mechanic was suggesting that this was the reason for the noises I've been hearing. From what I saw, and what the mechanic said, the shock mount is integrated into the wheel well of the vehicle. There's little good metal left in order to support the shock and coil spring, so obviously this situation needs to be addressed, but can this really be the source of the noise? His idea of a fix was that I would have to find a donor car with good metal and use that to replace the rusted wheel well on mine. Not something that his shop can do, but I'm sure there are others in my area that can.
View 17 RepliesI'm hearing a muffled thump in the center rear of my '97 Lumina about 2 minutes after I turn off the engine. It comes in a series of 2 thumps. This started about a week ago and now the thumping is occurring when I'm in a slow idle--just a series of two thumps. Maybe it's releasing pressure? What this could be?
View 5 RepliesDriver's side strut makes noise, been told by a mechanic it is nothing to worry about just the rubber mount on the strut. Makes noise when accelerating from a dead stop or sometimes turning. It is not a metallic sound. Can i get buy with changing the rubber mount on top of the strut or is it down in the strut itself so the strut needs to be replaced? 1997 Chevrolet Lumina car 4 door....
View 2 RepliesI bought the car( like six months ago) there has always been a loud humming noise from the fuel pump ( I'm pretty sure it is the fuel pump anyways) not the normal whirring noise the fuel pump makes but a hum you can hear about ten feet away. Had no issues till just lately when the afternoons are well into a hundred degrees. That is when my car starts giving me issues. After one of these hot days on my ride home from work, I had just come off the highway and stopped at a stop light when I felt the engine bogging out, the engine stalled and I had to push it to the side of the road.
Its worth mentioning that this humming noise is much louder in the heat than the cool morning then when I turned the key to hear the fuel pump(auto fuel inject) it was louder than it has ever been, and would keep stalling on the way home, I had at the most a quarter tank of gas (gas boy is busted/stuck I think) the fuel pump is bad? Could it be the sock? I thought I read somewhere that my girl pump uses gas to cool down, and that having the tank any less than a quarter could lead to the fuel pump overheating????
Recently my '92 Chevy Lumina (115,600 miles) has taken to not "firing" after I turn it on. It has a brand-new battery and altenator so there's plenty of current. I usually try to get it running 3 or 4 times and if it won't go, I leave it so as to not wear down the battery. It's as if it's not getting any fuel and yes, I do have gas in the tank. I've had the pressure in the fuel pump checked and it was within normal range although on the low end. I can wait 30 seconds or 6 hours and eventually it will "fire" and run.
View 8 RepliesWe recently had a flash flood. No big deal, I was meaning to buy a shot vac anyways.
Anyways, the day after I started using my car, and noticed that my seat belt warning light stayed on, even when I was wearing it. Same went for the "Airbag" light. A couple of days later, the seat belt light start doing what it was supposed to; it would go off once the belt was "clicked". The airbag light has been on for some time. I figured I'd stop in to autozone and see if they couldn't check a code for me, but the nice gal behind the counter said they can only scan CHECK Engine/Service Engine lights. The airbag light, literally just the word "airbag" illuminated in red has been on for about two weeks now.
I imagine the flash food was nice enough to leave me with a shorted wire somewhere, but how to troubleshoot it.
I have a 06 chevy 3500 express van with a 6.0 engine. The engine light came on about the O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1 came up on the on the scan tool. It run great. how do I fix it
View 4 RepliesI have a '99 Chevy Lumina 3100 V6 with 54k miles. There is a loud, high-pitch buzzy whine that changes pitch with engine RPM/transmission speed. The whining noise is only evident while the car is accelerating (forward or reverse), and above 5 mph. I removed the serpentine belt and drove it briefly (500 feet) - the noise is still there without the belt. I figure it's safe to assume it's not the power steering pump, alternator, H20 pump, idler or belt tensioner. The transmission has had regular service, and shifts smoothly in all gears (fluid is clean and level is full). There is only a slight raspy "scraping" noise in park or neutral, which becomes almost undetectable when shifting to drive or reverse with the brake still applied.
View 1 Repliesmy 2002 chevy impala has had the check engine light on for a while now i took it to a shop and he said my engine was bad. I asked for the codes he got he said he just told me my engine was bad why do I need codes. I talked to another mechanic this week and he said he'd look at it, that it might not be that because I should of got a print out for what I paid for. SO I got a oil change today and when i left I saw in the comments that they put class 2 oil pan leak and a class 2 transmission leak. Could that be why my check engine light is on? How bad is a class 2 transmission leak?
View 10 Replies2000 Chevy S10 pickup
Had the check engine light come on, and when I checked on the code it gave a 4th cylinder misfire. Autozone instructed me to simply replace my spark plug with a new oem plug.
I replaced the spark plug as instructed. After about an hour of driving, the check engine light goes off and I think, great! Problem solved. However, another hour of driving and the check engine light is back on again, without going away.
I headed back to autozone to get a readout, just to find that it's the same code. So I put another spark plug in. Same result - check engine light goes off after an hour, only to come back on again permanently after another hour.
Now, normally I would think, this must be the spark plug line that needs replacement,however I am sure there must be some clue in the fact that the check engine light turned off for an hour.
By the way, not sure if relevant, but I also found a lot of build up around the spark plug before I initially changed it.In fact, there was so much that I had to scrape around the plug with an awl, and blow out the crud with a compressor,just to get my socket into place without there being crud in the way.
Any clue what that check engine off/on clue might be?
2005 Malibu 2.2L 4 cyl.109,000 miles
If I hit a bump too hard the Check Engine light comes on because the gas cap pops out. Dealer told me this is a common problem with many of the Chevy models earlier than 2007. GM doesn't have a solution, either.
Since none of these cars have a locking mechanism I decided to get a locking cap at NAPA because the locking mechanism would hold the cap in place. Nope! The locking cap is even worse.
After filling the gas tank yesterday, as I was on my way to work, the check engine light came on. For the last couple of days the temperatures outside have reached 118 degrees. I have checked the oil and coolant and have resealed the gas cap as well, yet the light still remains. The research I have done leads me to believe the problem may be the catalytic converter, but I'm wondering if there is any further troubleshooting I can do without heading to a mechanic.
View 7 Replies