Chevrolet - Lumina :: 1995 - Steering Wheel Won't Turn?
May 13, 2012
Two days ago, I brought my 1995 Chevy Lumina to my repair shop I've been doing business with for years...they replaced an A/C compressor, oil change and flushed the sludge. Now today, this morning, I crank it up and the steering wheel is almost impossible to turn...making it almost impossible to drive and unsafe to attempt. My plan is to call them tomorrow and have them tow it and inspect...another expense. This car has been a fabulous 2nd vehicle with 155K miles on it...I'd like to keep it, but might have to exercise other options if the cost/benefit ratio is out of whack.
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I have a 1995 Chevrolet Lumina with about 175,000 miles on it. I've noticed in the past few months that the lights seem a bit dimmer, and the turn signal doesn't always work for the rear blinkers. It blinks rapidly in the front, but after a nudge to the turn signal, it slows down and begins to work in the back. Within the past couple of weeks, when the turn signal is on, it causes the speedometer indicator to pulse with the signal.
I took it in for the low lights and the signalling issue, and they said it might be the battery since it wasn't giving at a full charge. That was replaced, and the issues were still there. After that they said it would be an issue of getting into the steering column which would be a couple hundred dollars just to try and find the problem, but they couldn't guarantee that would actually find the problem.
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Got no heat in my 1995 Chevy Lumina passenger car with 3100 engine. Have replaced thermostat, water pump and replaced freeze plug that had a pinhole in it. Heater still blowing cold air and temp gage only moves slightly - stays in low range never reaches normal operating temp. what's causing the problem and how to fix it?
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How do I know if my 1995 Chevy Lumina has anti-lock brakes (ABS)???
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As I was turning right during a rainstorm, the steering wheel would not turn the car to the right.. It seemed to lock up. So I went straight and home turning left each time in order to get home. The next morning, I could again turn right. What do you think happened to lock up my steering (to the right) on the previous day? 1995 Lexus ES....
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I woke up and drove to a stop sign. When I tried to pull away the transmission raced like crazy, HIGH RPMS! But was barely moving. After about 8-15 mph it would finally catch 2nd gear. I check fluids frequently, and topped it off a few weeks ago, and when I finally got where I was able to stop, I looked and there was no fluid registering. So I put 2 quarts in to fill.... Then started the car and it would not go into any gear completely. I'd just feel a small thump, when I shifted. It will actually drop into gear after a while going straight, but it's stil revving HIGH and it won't completely go into reverse. Weirdest thing, the "Anti-Lock" light came on while all this was happening...
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Having trouble turning my wheel both ways on my trail blazer. Just replaced wheel bearings on truck not sure what would causing this. Also tries are wearing down..
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My 98 lumina seems to make a knocking/bouncing sound in the right rear wheel well when I brake. It never happens when I'm braking driving in the city (25 mph or so) but it happens when I'm closer to 40mph and up.
I thought it might've been a drum brake issue but I just had the brakes serviced about two or three weeks ago. It still does it. This isn't a new issue. It's something that's been going on for years.
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I have a 1995 Chevy Silverado 1500 Ext. Cab Z71 4x4 that I've had since '97. Last year it started over-heating, the temperature stays exactly where it is supposed to when I'm running down the highway, but starts to over-heat when I slow down to make a turn (up to about 230), but cools back down at an idle. The Truck has a standard 5.7L TBI 350
Trying to remedy this problem I've changed the thermostat 4 times (with a 160, 180, and 195), changed the radiator, changed the map sensor (thinking that it might be leaning the fuel out to much), changed both temperature sensors, replaced the water pump 3 times (the 3rd time I ordered a Flowcooler waterpump from Summit), changed the instrument cluster and computer thinking it might be electrical, replaced the catalytic converter (thinking it might be restricted), I even replaced every hose on the motor, I then installed a brand-new GM 5.7L 350 crate engine but it did the same thing.
After installing the new engine I replaced the knock sensor, the O2 sensor, changed the throttle body (with one from another motor i had for my son's '94), replaced the distributor, replaced the injectors, checked and made sure there wasn't and blockage in the center intake, cut the exhaust at the catalytic converter just to make sure there was no restrictions.
I recently tried a manual temp gauge just to see if the motor was actually getting hot, which it is.
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I have a 2006 Kia Rio base sedan. I've owned it from 55K miles to 70.5K miles. It does not have power steering.
When moving at rather slow speeds, maybe 0-15 or so mph, it seems that bumps or potholes or other irregularities will cause the steering wheel to turn significantly. I feel the steering wheel move back and forth by itself and the wheels feel like they "flop" to either direction to the whim of the road's irregularities if that makes sense. The wheel feels almost as if someone is grabbing it and moving it back and forth. The movement is forceful enough that if I'm not holding the wheel, the car can really wander around, possibly into another lane but I have not wanted to test that.
I tried looking up this issue on existing threads but couldn't find it. Also, I didn't really know what to call it. I had an apparently useless alignment at Firestone about a week ago (car still pulls to the right) which did not seem to affect the issue. I attached a scan of the alignment sheet thing.
Incidentally, it seems like they left a thing out of spec but maybe that's a whole other question. So, what could cause this and whether it can lead to damage or safety hazards?
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95 Honda Civic. Manual Trans and Steering. CV joints have 40K since rebuild, 50K on tires. Tire Press and Tq is good. Steering does not pull either way, suspension feels tight. Happens with/without brakes. I noticed that the steering wheel has developed an occasional left right shake that is proportional to the speed of the car. Seems to be most pronouced about 45 mph, however it continues until the car comes to a stop sometimes, well below the speed an unbalanced tire might be an issue. I noticed the problem when it started getting cold and can not figure out if it a road issue (in IL = bad roads), or a car issue.
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I have a 1995 lumina. Yesterday the oil light came on. There is plenty of oil but the light stays on. I'm thinking it is either the oil pump or the sensor. How do I determine which???
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1995 Lumina LS 3.1L w/ ~185K mi
A few weeks back, the amber ABS light would periodically illuminate and then became more frequent until it was On every time I used the car. The light only comes on after driving the car forward ~10-20ft. Recently in the past few days, the red brake light also started coming on at the exact same time as the amber ABS light. I can start up the car and idle, backup, and then as soon as I drive forward 10-20ft., both lights simultaneously illuminate, along with the sound of something that is engaging/closing/switching etc. coming from the front driver's side, maybe where the brake module is located. The sound coincides with the illumination of the lights. There is also absolutely no noticeable difference in braking.
I just changed the oil a couple days ago and the fluid level was good and appears to have not moved at all since I flushed the lines ~2.5yrs. ago. I cannot recall if I returned the pistons to the home position back then, but either way I was able to bleed all 4 lines.
What may be causing both lights to illuminate together when the car moves forward in addition to coinciding with a sort of clunking/engaging noise coming from the front driver's side?
If I have to replace the EBCM, then do I need a scan tool?
I already called Module Master and they do not rebuild any GM EBCMs built before 1999. Looks like Rock Auto has some though.
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My brother's 1995 chevy lumina 3.1 engine has been dying while braking for a stop and while reversing. Has replaced fuel filter, map sensor, throttle sensor, o2 sensors and still no change. He says he doesn't believe a tune-up is the cause either.
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1981 Corvette rebuilt/restored. 35+ mph. steering wheel shakes/vibrates. Higher speed, depress clutch, smooth ride. Taken to mechanic recently, test driven to acknowledge, lift done twice, no clue.
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13.5k, 2.2 Ecotec, Automatic
The MAF had to be replaced, while the car was at the dealer the power steering motor was replaced (recall). When I got the car back the steering motor (reman) was making a lot of noise and I took it back. This time the motor and the steering column were replaced. After a week I got the car back last night.
This morning I noticed the steering wheel is off center (~1/2 to 3/4") to the right. The car tracks straight with no pull to either side.
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I was driving to work and lost all power (during rush hour) I was able to coast to a exit. Had it towed home, when I turn the key the starter engages but nothing after that, the engine will not turn over. I checked the battery and has a full 12 volts.
I removed the belt and front plugs to see if I could manually turn the engine over but it will not budge. How can I tell if this engine is really locked up or if maybe something else is happening?
3.1 V6 engine .....
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1995 Chevy Lumina 3.1L Sedan with ~182K mi
Over the past 6 months, I have noticed fuel odor just about any time I turn off the vehicle, and I am also experiencing progressively higher levels of fuel tank pressure each time I remove the fuel cap. The fuel tank pressure seems to be greater the lower the level of fuel in the tank whenever I remove the cap. 6 months ago (~Sept) it was only a slight "hissing" periodically when removing the cap to fuel up, but now it occurs at every fill up and seems to have enough pressure to push the cap entirely off had I not been careful to slowly loosen the cap to relieve the pressure.
The entire fuel pump and sending unit assembly in addition to the tank and filter were all replaced about 4 years ago in May 2010 or about 28K mi ago. The issue has just come up progressively over the last 6 months.
Today, I inspected the evap. emission components and lines from the tank to the canister to the purge solenoid mounted on the rear of the engine. All lines are connected and seem to be in operable condition. The line from the canister to the purge valve mounted on the engine is completely free with no obstructions. I blew out the line with compressed air and absolutely no exiting particulates were observed. The lines on the bottom of the canister did not show any signs of wet fuel and there were no carbon particles present in the lines from what I could tell from disconnecting and inspecting. The vapor line from the tank to the carbon canister is not kinked or pinched in any manner.
I believe there is a fuel vapor check valve that resides inside the tank connected to the fuel pump assembly/sending unit. This was all replaced as a single unit as mentioned above. I am thinking this check valve may not be functioning properly and not allowing the vapor to escape into the carbon canister. I tried to apply slight pressure and vacuum on the vapor line connected to the check valve on the tank but no air was able to move in or out even with the gas cap off. However, I do have a full tank of gas right now, so I imagine the check valve will be closed.
The check engine light is not on but since this is an OBDI vehicle I am not sure there are any evap. emission codes anyway.
How can I test the gas tank vapor check valve? How can I test the vapor purge solenoid located on the rear of the engine? What malfunctioning component could be causing the excessive fuel tank pressure.
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I have a 2001 Chevy Malibu ,I have noticed a whirling sound coming from my steering wheel whenever I am turning. I am wondering what could be the cause and should I get it checked out.
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I don't know how the story ended with the 07 4WD Avalanche with the unidentifiable noise - he said, "The noise always occurs between 45-60mph (not rpm-related) there is a groaning sound and it is accompanied by a vibration in the steering wheel. it is especially noticeable when going around turns.."He went on to say that he checked the hubs and they were fine, and decided that he would replace the tranny. I sure hope that fixed it.I had the same problem on my 07 4WD Avi, and the hubs checked just fine, smooth as silk, with no loose play at all. But on a 1000+ mile trip just a few days later, the groaning and vibration grew worse, but only when I went around a left curve. I barely made it to my destination - the right hub failed. If it had been groaning and vibrating when turning right, it would've been the left hub. I replaced both at the same time.
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I noticed this problem day as I was out and about, as I come out of a medium to hard turn (at least one wheel rotation) my wheel doesn't want to return fully to the center position. The wheel starts to slow down about half a turn in either position and I need to get it around the quarter turn position. I don't have to force it much, it feels more turning the wheel while in park.
I has winter tires put on in December and the mechanic told me they couldn't do an alignment because one of my rear coils was broken (planning on getting that fixed myself once I get a weekend where it's not at or below 0 outside) and my front ball-joints (I think that's what they said) was loose and that the front joint didn't need to be looked at immediately, but by spring should be replaced.
That front joint is what's giving me problems? Or is it something else?
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