Chevrolet - Lumina :: 1992 - Engine Won't Fire After Ignition
May 1, 2012
Recently my '92 Chevy Lumina (115,600 miles) has taken to not "firing" after I turn it on. It has a brand-new battery and altenator so there's plenty of current. I usually try to get it running 3 or 4 times and if it won't go, I leave it so as to not wear down the battery. It's as if it's not getting any fuel and yes, I do have gas in the tank. I've had the pressure in the fuel pump checked and it was within normal range although on the low end. I can wait 30 seconds or 6 hours and eventually it will "fire" and run.
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My main top water hose burst. I replaced it. Car ran hot. Replaced the thermostat, coolant sensor, and 12 volt relay fuses for primary and secondary fans. Still ran hot. Fans not coming on. I tested fans in service mode by paper clip to F and G in the diagnostic scan box. Fans came on, so no blowed motors. Got desperate, so ran a toggle switch to primary fan, so fan would run while I drive. Still, when the car gets hot, after about 5 miles of regular driving, the car huckabucks, and cuts off at slow downs and stops. Really bad in the middle of light intersections.
1992 Chevrolet Lumina 3.1 6 cyl ....
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My check engine light keeps coming on. I've had a couple of mechanics look at this and they say the code indicates the transmission is going out. the transmissions does not slip or have any signs of going out.
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The last time I had my car serviced, the mechanic told me that while it wasn't a pressing issue, my power steering pump was starting to go. Lo and behold, it's that time. I started to notice that while idling I hear a dry, raspy sound coming from the engine. I left the car on, opened the hood, and it's definitely something spun by the belt. I'm 99% sure it's the power steering pump, so I'm going to replace it. Furthermore, do I need to "bleed" the lines? How does one go about doing that, anyhow?
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My 98 chevy luminas service engine light came on after I got gas. I put vaseline around the threads to seal it and the light went out for 2 days and then came on again. I bought a new cap and the same thing happened, two days light out than back on. I took the car to Autozone and did a diagnostics test which came back with error message P0341, then took it a mechanic who ran his on diagnostics on it and he says the camshaft sensor needs changed. It is a semi expensive job for an older car and I want to be sure that that is the problem, plus the gas cap thing has me confused.
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I have a '99 Chevy Lumina 3100 V6 with 54k miles. There is a loud, high-pitch buzzy whine that changes pitch with engine RPM/transmission speed. The whining noise is only evident while the car is accelerating (forward or reverse), and above 5 mph. I removed the serpentine belt and drove it briefly (500 feet) - the noise is still there without the belt. I figure it's safe to assume it's not the power steering pump, alternator, H20 pump, idler or belt tensioner. The transmission has had regular service, and shifts smoothly in all gears (fluid is clean and level is full). There is only a slight raspy "scraping" noise in park or neutral, which becomes almost undetectable when shifting to drive or reverse with the brake still applied.
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Vehicle: 2000 Chevy Express 3500 passenger van 5.7L
History: Low fuel pressure when starting. If the van sat longer than 24 hours it wouldn't start without a squirt of starting fluid. I suspected it was the fuel pump but didn't get around to changing it. My wife put in "extra" starting fluid one afternoon and tried to start the van - there was a small explosion which blew up the air cleaner housing and started a fire. She put the fire out with an extinguisher. The fire was restricted to the air cleaner media and housing and burned for about 45 seconds.
Repairs: I cleaned up the extinguisher material and replaced filter housing and media. I checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail - pressure gauge read zero. I checked the relay and all of the fuses - everything was in good shape. I looked for a fuel cutoff switch but the Chevy tech I talked to said there isn't one on that year of van - he recommended that I disconnect the battery for 5 minutes to reset the system. I did that too. Still no fuel pressure. Replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. Still no fuel pressure.
Current Status: The engine will crank and if I put starting fluid in the van will turn over and run as long as there is starting fluid. When the accelerant is gone the engine stops running. Again, it will crank but there is no fuel pressure at the rail. The manual says the pressure should be 85 lbs with the key on and engine off and then 45 - 55 lbs running.
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Trying to figure out if she jumped timing or maybe PCM went out. Car started dying going up hills then stalled out on level road. Found coil pack for #3 and #6 bad and replaced it. Other's arced ok so I left them alone. Didn't work for starting it so I checked the fuel pressure and got 37psi with key on and engine off.What would cause it not to even try to hit? Considering maybe it's jumped timing or the PCM is going out.
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I purchased a 92 Lumina Euro with a 3.1 and 101,400 miles on it a little over two weeks ago. It has been having problems since I got it.
It stalls intermittently, typically after I drive to work, shut it off for two hours, and then start it to go to my next client(home health aid) sometimes it stalls right after starting it then, and/or sometimes when put in reverse and/or drive and occasionally at stops signs after the aforementioned problems occur. It has also stalled out twice after highway driving after the car is shut off and started shortly afterwards, for instance, when I ran into a tobacco store for some cigs.. After the problem occurs it usually drives ok if I continue to drive it awhile even if I shut it off for a short time and restart.. I added some fuel injector cleaner when I filled the tank but it didn't work.
After about a week of the stalling issues the car refused to start after dying and didn't start for two or three days. As I was unable to get an answer from the dealer my step-father, who went with me when I bought the car, called him and he said if I could get the car there he would fix it. So I borrowed a bundle to have it towed the 25 miles or so to the small town car lot.
His mechanic supposedly fixed it by replacing the TPS and the dealer informed me that they had cleaned the throttle body before I bought it and apparently the TPS needed replaced to. However the issues again started after one day of it running fine. I tired to get a hold of this guy again and again I get the voice mail and no return call so as soon as I got off work I drove it over there and again he said he would fix it. He had it for three days and I again tried to get a hold of him without success and he again answered the phone for my step-dad and told him they had ordered some kind of module that would be in Monday. So Wednesday he calls me and tells me that they didn't replace this module because when they took it out it tested good five times but they noticed some gunk build up at the contacts of the wires that hook to the module and now the car was fixed. Why did they order the part before testing??? This doesn't make sense so it throws doubt on what the man said. I went to get the car and when I got back to my town and went to get those cigs it died twice after restart and put into reverse. That was two days ago and it has been dying once or twice each day since then although it is somewhat better than before as it isn't taking as long for the idle to even out at sufficient rpms after I throttle it at idle or drive awhile. BUT now it seems to be sucking the gas hard and I am wondering if this guy just did some jerry-rigging because he sure isn't fixing it.
A few more details. The rpms drop rapidly when this occurs, it has a couple of times had a rough idle at the same time but more often the rpms drop and it dies.Sometimes if I use the throttle and keep it up around 1000 rpms for a short time it won't die. I have smelt a burnt smell a couple times when I shut the car off, like electric burnt, not oil burnt or stinky exhaust. Lets see, I felt a very brief loss of power feeling when driving on the highway on two different occasions, so brief that it was barely discernable. It runs over the halfway point on the temp gauge after driving awhile in town, seems a little hot to me but I read these cars don't kick on the fan till 220. Sometimes the rpm bobs a little up and down at idle and slow speeds and once the battery power dropped and popped right back up when it was idling funny and when it had that no start an acquaintance tested it by putting a screwdriver in a plug wire and pointing it towards the engine as I cranked it and he said it had no spark and it did crank every time I tried to start it during the no-start condition. It has also done a bit of surging from time to time when the prob happens. The car is recovering from the stall condition quicker than it did before since this last "fix" but still stalling.
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1090 Lumina Sedan 3.1 ... First time it had starting issues Recently. About 2 months ago my lumina's engine would die when i pushed down on the gas pedal. After 2 days of trying to fix the issue it wouldn't start at all, i replaced:
TPS
MAP/MAT Sensor
Fuel Filter
None of these worked so i sent it to a shop, they replaced:
ECM
Multi Port Injection (All 6 Injectors)
TPS (even though i had just installed a new one)
Serpentine Belt (it broke when they were test driving it after the Repairs were done)
The car would not start even after they replaced the first 3 parts on the list, so the tech looked further at the engine and found frayed and open wires, on the bottom near the front side passenger door, he repaired these wires and the car started and ran.
The only issues i had after their repair was a rough idle while braking and/or when i was at a full stop, the rough idle went away after a few days of driving.
((Current No Start Issues))A week ago i had what i am guessing is a few electrical issues: Speedometer Twitching and then dropping to nothing while driving, temp and oil light popping on and then off, when the engine was at a good temp and the oil was fine when i had checked the day before.
I went out a few days ago to run some errands and on my way home i turned a corner and when i put my foot down on the gas pedal the car just went "Put-put Put-put" every time i pushed the pedal more than a 1/4 of the way down. i reach a stop sign and being i was in the middle of nowhere and no one was coming down the road for miles i braked slightly and went past the stop sign halfway through my turn the engine died and i coasted to the side of the road, i got out and checked the engine, i had coolant not a whole lot but enough, then i checked the oil and it as far as i could tell it was at the add line even though it had been fine a few days before,(there has been no indication of an oil leak).
I rechecked the coolant and it looked like there was more in there than there was a few minutes before but i couldn't be sure, i was able to get the car restarted and headed towards home (about 2 miles away).at this point i was able to get the car going at around 25-45mph on the next sharp corner i turned the engine died again so i restarted and kept going, it died once more right before i reached the driveway but i was able to coast the rest of the way, once i parked the car i turned the engine off and tried to restart it a minute later and it started again so i left it be and called someone to bring me some oil, when they got to me with the oil i put some in and and it would not start at all.
- I checked one of the spark plug wires and it is not getting any spark.
- The ground terminal on the battery seems to be stripped
- The battery / altenator / starter---- All read to be between 12.15 and 12.36 volts
- The head lights, instrument panel and such still turn on properly.
I'm at a loss here, it was just in the shop 20 days ago and now it isn't working again. I would prefer to not have to put it back in the shop, if it might be something i could repair from home.
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Not hearing a click from the start relay either when i turn over the ignition.
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Without key even in ignition, fuel pump relay clicks constantly every 8 seconds with the gauge lights illuminating during this 8 seconds. The only lights that function are the gauge lights. Upon turning on the headlight switch only the gauge lights illumin8. Absolutely no headlights, dome light or brake lights. No fuel pump sense/pulse. No radio, key on or in accessories.
Multi-function switch was not the issue. How would I troubleshoot this one?
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My truck will fire while the starter is engaged ,but stalls when the key is in the run position. This is my plow truck and I don't want to go through the winter without it.
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I have 2 spark plugs not firing. one of the three ignition coils does not fire, the other two do, is the most likely culprit be the ignition control module? car has the 3.8 motor.
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I have a 96 chevy lumina. My brake lights will not come on. My 3rd will not either. I have changed the bulbs, checked the fuses, checked and replaced my brake light switch in my brake pedal with no success. I have half of my dash lights so I am thinking maybe a short?? I have my tail lights, but no brake lights.
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Got no heat in my 1995 Chevy Lumina passenger car with 3100 engine. Have replaced thermostat, water pump and replaced freeze plug that had a pinhole in it. Heater still blowing cold air and temp gage only moves slightly - stays in low range never reaches normal operating temp. what's causing the problem and how to fix it?
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A year ago, I had a problem starting my car (a 2004 Chevrolet Impala, about 120,000 miles). When I put the key in the ignition, the engine wouldn't turn. I knew there wasn't a problem with the battery because my lights, radio, etc. were still operating fine. Instead, I got a bright flashing "SECURITY" message on the front panel of the car. After a few minutes pacing around the parking lot, I returned to my car and it started without a problem. I checked online, and several car forums and articles claimed that this was a common problem in 2004 Chevrolet Impalas: some faulty wiring in the security system would stop the car from turning on because it thought you were trying to hot-wire the vehicle.
After the first incident, I didn't encounter this problem again until recently. Within the last 2 weeks, this problem has become more frequent, occurring maybe 2-3 times per week. The car won't start and I'll get a flashing "SECURITY" message. If I wait a while (between 5 to 30 minutes), the car will eventually start. I finally decided to take my car into a Chevrolet dealership to get the problem fixed. I described the problem to the mechanic; she guessed that the cause was associated with the ignition cylinder....
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I have a 98 1.8T passat. The number one cylinder won't fire, according to my checks, the ignition coil is not being activated by the CPU, (no current at the connector only ground) what could cause this problem. Any way to check the crank or cam sensor.
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My car has started to on occasion not have any power when I turn key. I can try it several times and then poof, the power is there and it stars with no trouble. When I say no power, there is nothing, no dash lights no sound, Absolutely nothing!
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My wife's '93 Chevy Lumina has a strange habit of not starting unless I charge the battery overnight. The lights don't dim when I turn the key which would normally tell me that the battery and connections are fine, but the solenoid won't energize. If I trickle charge the battery overnight it will start fine. Now this generally happens after the car has been sitting for an extended period of time. Computer maybe?
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I drive a 2000 Chevrolet Lumina. The car frequently goes out of alignment. Best case scenario, I have to get an alignment done once a month. The last time I had an alignment done on it, the mechanic said one of the machine settings was not listed & they could only align two of the settings. I guess he meant two out of camber/toe/caster. Also, I was rear ended in June 2012. The car seems to have lost capability to stay in alignment. Why is this? Do I need a new suspension? Do I need to have certain parts looked at to see why the car can not stay in alignment?
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