Chevrolet Impala :: 2008 - Engine Power Will Reduce While Driving / Rough Shifting
Jul 31, 2014
For the past several months, every now and then while driving the engine power will reduce and the Driver Information Center will display two messages: "Service Stabilitrak" and "Engine Power Reduced", and the ESC and Check Engine dashboard lights will come on. Shifting becomes rough especially between 1st and 2nd gears. After turning off the car for 10 minutes or so, the engine power will be restored and the ESC light goes out but the Check Engine Light remains lit. After a day or so the Check Engine light goes out. Otherwise the car runs normally. This happens at least once on every long trip where I am out on the highway - sometimes multiple times on a single road trip. It does not happen in short trips around home.
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Every so often while driving in the city my car starts shifting rough between 1st-2en and 2en-3rd gears. If I stop; turn off the engine and then restart it stops. The car has 107,000 mi. and the fluid has always been changed as recomended. Do I have a shift selonoid going out somewhere?
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My '08 Chevy Impala (116,000 miles) has had a recurring issue over the past few months. After I have first started it, and for maybe the first 15 minutes it is running, it has been 'shifting hard' from 1st to 2nd gear. Basically, the engine revs much higher than it normally would and it 'thunks' into second gear. If I intentionally push the gas slower it does not happen. The guys who service my car (not Chevy) told me that my Transmission fluid level is fine.
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This truck has been a good running truck until recently..... lately you can drive for awhile then the check engine light comes on... readout says reduce engine power.... if you stop for like 30 seconds or less and restart all is fine. It doesn't do this all the time or every time has done it once a day or 4 times in a row, never a rhyme or reason to it. I have used my computer reader to see if i can find the problem myself but for some reason the reader can't read ( still trying to trace why.... even the free scan from oreillys couldn't link to my onboard computer for some reason) so the problem to the onboard computer not linking to any reader?
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All the other cars I had before started better after being warmed up. My 2005 Impala starts perfect when cold first thing in morning but if I go somewhere quick and try to start-up the engine warm it fights it's self and car shakes and it's super rough start . So I figured it's the hot vapors in the engine so I Remove the oil cap and it starts better . What to do to start a warm engine .
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Truck is a 2003 1500HD Silverado with the 6.0L 364V8. Last winter I started getting the P1516 code and reduced engine power randomly during driving. After dealing with it for about a month I did some research and discovered in most cases it was either the wiring/plug or the TAC module itself. After going over the connections I couldn't see any visible breaks..etc but I decided to go ahead and change out the connector and about 6inches of the wiring.
After replacement the code hadn't come back until today, probably atleast 9months ago was the last time it did it. Today the code came on four times during a 10minute drive. Before it would come on once during the drive, i'd clear it with my scan gauge, and it would not do it again the entire day. I checked all my connections once again and everything is intact and there is no visible breaks and the connector is clean. I'm starting to think that it was just a coincidence that this problem quit when I replaced the connector, and was wondering if colder weather could have weight on this issue?
After poking around the posts on here and other sites I found that many ended up replacing the TAC module which is on the throttle body. After looking at mine the only way I can see replacing that is just buying a new throttle body with the TAC on it, can't seem to find just the TAC part by itself anywhere. So if I were to order a new throttle body how hard is it to remove/install? and do I have to do a relearn process or is it plug and play?
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My 2003 Chevy Imapala went over some large water puddles and shortly after a check engine light came out. My local auto store did a check and stated there is a possible problem with a senor. If the senor got wet, could it even give the computer a good reading? Would it probably give a totally different reading once it dries?
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2007 Chevy Impala3.5L 6-cyl Flex Fuel engine w/ 4 speed auto trans52,800 miles
Extreme driving conditions maintenance schedule kept.Transmission standard service done @ 32,800 miles which was 20k ago.
PROBLEM:
1) Twice in past three days, when shifting from reverse to drive the transmission has slipped, revving hard with rpms spiked above 3,000 for about 2 seconds before engaging the forward drive gear.
Normally I come to a complete stop of all reverse motion with foot fully on the brake pedal before shifting. Admittedly, I got sloppy the first time noted and still had very slight reverse motion when I shifted.
2) Several times late today, while driving uphill at approx 35 - 45 mph, when the car downshifted there was an extremely brief moment of transmission slippage with spiked rpms. It was so brief each time that at first I thought I'd imagined it until it happened again. Then it did it once on a level surface in a parking lot when having shifted from reverse to drive without problem and was gently accelerating the transmission again slipped for just the briefest moment when the normal automatic shift point was reached. So far, all incidences while driving have been so extremely brief that it was the merest hint of a hiccup.
3) When bringing the car to a complete stop, such as at a stoplight or when parking, as the transmission automatically shifts for the braking of speed, sometimes there is a minor but noticeable thunk sound seeming to come from underneath the car, I'd judge to be somewhere about under the level of the dashboard or slightly forward of that. Could that be from a worn or broken transmission mount? And, if so, could that be somehow causing the slippage problem?
4) This transmission has always, even since new, allowed more roll after being shifted into park, the engine shut off and my foot taken off the brake than any other car I have ever driven. If I forget to engage the parking brake quite tightly, the car will roll forward quite a few inches before the parking pawl holds it, even on the level. I've been told both by the dealership shop and the independent mechanic shop that there is no problem and that this particular engine/transmission combination tends to do this although my particular car seems to do so somewhat worse than average.
ACTIONS TAKEN SO FAR:
1) Have made an appointment to take the car into the mechanic.
2) Will check the transmission fluid level per instructions in the owner's manual tomorrow when I have daylight to see what the fluid level and color on the stick looks like.
NOTE:
1) I periodically check the transmission fluid level and it has never been low or discolored. The shop checked it for me, along with making sure everything else was road trip worthy, for an emergency 1,000 round trip in late November, just three months ago. No problems then.
2) No evidence on the garage floor of any leakage. Garage floor is dry.
QUESTIONS:
1) I presume the first step is for the mechanic to check the fluid level and examine for any leaks?
2) If the mechanic cannot duplicate the problem in a test drive, then what?
3) If the problem cannot be duplicated and no apparent cause found, I presume that the prudent course of action is to go ahead and have standard transmission maintenance done (i.e. drop the pan, check for debris, drain and replace with fresh fluid) then see if that halts the slippages?
4) Given that this car has already had failures of the power steering pump, water pump, and part of the wiring harness, and has a fuel pump starting to get noisy, despite aggressively maintaining all standard/preventive maintenance, that perhaps it is time to think of replacing this car, especially if there proves to be any truly major transmission problem found?
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I have a 00 impala w 4t65e tranny I believe I have a p1811 code of hard and long shifting. I also need both cv axles replaced. If i replace the axles and have then dropped. Is it possible with the pcs going out, i would be able to drive 600 miles both way to a family thing without getting stranded.
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Recently I've been noticing a gas smell after parking my car after the drive home from work, but engine performance and mileage efficiency didn't seem affected, and I found no visible evidence of leaking on the ground (nor in the engine, but I likely don't know the right places to look).
Today, with the engine running, I looked around the engine to see if I could locate any gas leakage -- I located the fuel pressure regulator (I think; a golf-ball sized acorn on the right of the engine with a hose coming in the top and a pipe coming out the bottom and going down and to the left) and didn't see any leaking during my brief test. I'll check it again after my drive home tonight.
One new thing I did discover, though; while in park, when I slowly pressed on the accelerator, there would be a point where the engine started losing power and going into a rev/slowdown cycle: about a second or two of revving, then a half second of slowing down. This was while cold and in park; I've not experienced this in normal driving.
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I replaced the thermostat, flushed the radiator and have the same problem. it can idle just fine but it gets hot driving less than 15 minutes. There are no visible leaks.
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There is an odor when it idles both in and out of the car but only after some driving - if I sit there a while the smell goes away. It is most noticeable when I get off the highway on my way to work and sit at a stop light. If i have to sit and wait for someone, the smell dissipates. I cannot find a leak. There is a performance issue but I'm not sure if it's related. At highway speeds it is having trouble accelerating - if I'm at 55 and want to go to 65, it'll go but it feels like there's resistance, almost a pulling, it causes the car to rock back and forth a bit - again it only happens at higher speeds. It has 140000 and is in good shape (except for things mentioned). The last repair was a water pump replacement about 4 months ago.
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I have a 2008 Chevy Impala. I've owned it for 14 months and put about 12,000 miles on it in that time. It's had basic servicing (rotations, oil, oil filter, cabin filter, etc. changes). It hasn't given me problems---but suddenly I have one and I'm not sure how major it is.
I made a drive from New York to Western Mass yesterday...couple hundred miles, but nothing huge. It drove fine all yesterday after I arrived...again, no problems. This morning, I went to start it...everything's okay. But then I went to shift it out of park...the button will not depress. I restarted a few times...no luck. I kept trying to depress the petal to shift it; I couldn't even shift it into neutral when not started. I am not sure what in the world is going on.
I've read numerous forums on this---it seems to be a common problem with these cars. What's not so clear is what to do with this. Responses range from---stick a screwdriver into some hole all the way to just go on and junk the car, it's useless. That's why I am coming here to get clearer guidance on resolving this problem, hopefully in an economical way.
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I have a 2008 Chevy Impala that I've owned for going on six months. It's treated me very well. I'm just now getting ready to give it a nice wash/interior cleaning this evening, but I noticed while cleaning under the hood just now that I cannot get the hood to stay up on it's own. I'm not sure what the issue is. I keep nudging it gently, but that's not working. As recently as yesterday I had the hood up when I was checking the oil...it stayed just fine.
Of course, the pre-2014 Impala generation has hoods without the manual supports. So what might the problem be here? I figure this car is a little new to be having a problem like this.
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I am the (once) proud owner of a 2008 Chevrolet Impala. I have owned the car for one year, putting only 12,000 miles on it (was 109,000 when I bought it.) The car has run quite well—I have not had any problems out of it (unlike the 1999-2005 generation Impalas). But, as many of you may have heard, GM had some massive recalls as of late. Many of the cars have had fatal ignition switch failures. Basically every single Impala in the last (my) generation has been recalled.
Take any other keys/paraphernalia off of the chain—basically, just insert the key into the ignition, unattached to anything. This is the fix for the time being, apparently—until they can get ignition switches for however many hundred thousand Impalas they have to fix.
I am about to make a 3 hour drive. Now, that wouldn't be the longest drive that I have made in this car (and I cringe at the idea that, driving 17 hours with a bunch of crap hanging off of my chain, that my car easily could have been one of the unfortunate ones.)
Now that I know that I cannot be sure of the safety of my vehicle, I need to know what to do in the case of an emergency. I want to know what exactly the situation of an ignition switch failure entails...basically, what happens to my car and my ability to control the car. Lastly, I need to know what to do if this happens.
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My Impala hesitates at 2,000 RPMs At every speed level. My mechanic and the Chevy dealer can't figure this out.
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My car has fairly deep scratches on the trunk, roof, and hood. It's a red, 2008 Chevy Impala. I'd take pictures---but it's too painful. There are numerous thin scratches on each of these surfaces. I'm going to take it to a body shop to get an estimate, but I know I am probably not going to like what I hear. No, my insurance does not cover this (I only have liability). So...Am I going to need a completely new paint job?
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I inherited this car from my parents a couple years ago with about 80,000 miles. It ran great for awhile, then the air conditioner and the gauges would quit working while driving. After a few minutes they would resume working and everything would go back to normal. Now it will start sometimes and will not start at other times. I have replaced the battery two times and it seemed to work for a short period. I have had several mechanics look at it. After checking the code and replacing a fuse or sensor and replacing the ignition switch the car is still doing the same thing and no one has a clue what is going on. It seems to me that it may happen more often when going over a bump. What could be causing this?
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I've owned a 2008 Chevy Impala for about 7 months. It's at about 115,000 miles. It runs great...haven't had any problems out of it. So far. But there are a few things that concern me.
When I start the car, I hear this squeaking noise under the hood. I do not always hear this---it seems as if it may be tied with cold weather, like it's something that only occurs in the morning. But regardless, it seems abnormal. It subsides after a few minutes. The other thing I am noticing is that normally within the first 10 or 15 minutes of operation, if the car is at a stop light I'll hear some strange humming accompanied by vibrations. Sometimes the lights will flash faintly when this happens.
When I first purchased the car, I had a mechanic check it out. The engine, transmission, radiator, etc. were in excellent condition. I'm hoping that this is not anything serious, but I figure these are still sounds that I should not be hearing with a car in good condition.
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I have a 2008 Impala that has been having interlock shift issues for about a week. The interlock shift button would not depress. I was able to remove the center console and take a look at some of the wiring. It there's a bundle of wires and there is a black wire that appears to be severed. From what I've read, this is a common problem with the Impala models from 2006 through 2008...it should have been a recall, but for some reason was not. How can I do a low-cost DIY repair on this that's going to be solid and prevent recurring problems?
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I drove to work this morning and parked my car (around 10:30AM). I return to my car at about 9:00PM. I approach it trying to unlock it using my remote. I keep hitting the button as I approach...it does not work. I unlock it manually and get inside and put the key in ignition...absolutely nothing happens. No lights, no dashboard, no...nothing.
Then I remember...I left my parking lights on the entire day! That must be what's wrong...
I go and grab some portable jumper cables and...boy did I kill some time trying to elicit a reaction. When I hooked it up, the car came alive completely...it just wouldn't start no matter how long I let it sit. I would simply hear a single click. So, I went a grabbed another set of portable jumpers and....same exact thing. By the time the tow guy came around, he tried it with his portable cables as well and...same exact thing.
I am trying to figure out what in the world is wrong. I replaced the battery one year ago, when I had trouble starting it. So...the battery is new and, by all appearances, in good condition. Outside of that, no history of starting problems whatsoever...which is what makes all of this so incredibly confusing.
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