Chevrolet - Impala :: 2002 - Transmission Was Loud And Taking Time To Shift - Can't Reverse
May 13, 2013
Ok so about a week ago I was driving my 02 impala and I heard a loud noise while driving at 30 mph and it lasted till about 50mph. well I had my dad take it down the road while I was at work about 5 days later to hear what the noise was wondering if it might have been a hub. Well I call him an hour later cause he ain't back he says he's at the gas station and it won't reverse. Well apparently the noise was just my transmission being loud cause it was taking a while to shift. I've never had a problem with my tranny but some leakage which I think is just the gasket I just know that theres tranny fluid under my pan on one side. So I went to auto zone and they got a code for p1811. So I'm wondering if it just needs a filter and gasket change or is my tranny gone. It still shifts into gears just takes longer in 2nd and I can't drive in reverse at all?
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I have a 2002 Ranger with a 2.3 lt engine and a 5R44E Transmission. Has 120,oookms (75,000 miles) I have an issue.
Here is what was happening: Would not shift into Drive...took a long time to do so.... and had a 2 to 3 gear flare.
Here is what I did: Replaced the valve body gaskets. Improved a lot. The 2 to 3 shift flare has gone. The delayed shift into D is mostly gone BUT still takes 15 to 20 seconds to shift into D. Once in gear no problems shifting. Does not slip and NO OD light flashing.
What do I need to do to fix the delayed shift issue.
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2007 Chevy Impala3.5L 6-cyl Flex Fuel engine w/ 4 speed auto trans52,800 miles
Extreme driving conditions maintenance schedule kept.Transmission standard service done @ 32,800 miles which was 20k ago.
PROBLEM:
1) Twice in past three days, when shifting from reverse to drive the transmission has slipped, revving hard with rpms spiked above 3,000 for about 2 seconds before engaging the forward drive gear.
Normally I come to a complete stop of all reverse motion with foot fully on the brake pedal before shifting. Admittedly, I got sloppy the first time noted and still had very slight reverse motion when I shifted.
2) Several times late today, while driving uphill at approx 35 - 45 mph, when the car downshifted there was an extremely brief moment of transmission slippage with spiked rpms. It was so brief each time that at first I thought I'd imagined it until it happened again. Then it did it once on a level surface in a parking lot when having shifted from reverse to drive without problem and was gently accelerating the transmission again slipped for just the briefest moment when the normal automatic shift point was reached. So far, all incidences while driving have been so extremely brief that it was the merest hint of a hiccup.
3) When bringing the car to a complete stop, such as at a stoplight or when parking, as the transmission automatically shifts for the braking of speed, sometimes there is a minor but noticeable thunk sound seeming to come from underneath the car, I'd judge to be somewhere about under the level of the dashboard or slightly forward of that. Could that be from a worn or broken transmission mount? And, if so, could that be somehow causing the slippage problem?
4) This transmission has always, even since new, allowed more roll after being shifted into park, the engine shut off and my foot taken off the brake than any other car I have ever driven. If I forget to engage the parking brake quite tightly, the car will roll forward quite a few inches before the parking pawl holds it, even on the level. I've been told both by the dealership shop and the independent mechanic shop that there is no problem and that this particular engine/transmission combination tends to do this although my particular car seems to do so somewhat worse than average.
ACTIONS TAKEN SO FAR:
1) Have made an appointment to take the car into the mechanic.
2) Will check the transmission fluid level per instructions in the owner's manual tomorrow when I have daylight to see what the fluid level and color on the stick looks like.
NOTE:
1) I periodically check the transmission fluid level and it has never been low or discolored. The shop checked it for me, along with making sure everything else was road trip worthy, for an emergency 1,000 round trip in late November, just three months ago. No problems then.
2) No evidence on the garage floor of any leakage. Garage floor is dry.
QUESTIONS:
1) I presume the first step is for the mechanic to check the fluid level and examine for any leaks?
2) If the mechanic cannot duplicate the problem in a test drive, then what?
3) If the problem cannot be duplicated and no apparent cause found, I presume that the prudent course of action is to go ahead and have standard transmission maintenance done (i.e. drop the pan, check for debris, drain and replace with fresh fluid) then see if that halts the slippages?
4) Given that this car has already had failures of the power steering pump, water pump, and part of the wiring harness, and has a fuel pump starting to get noisy, despite aggressively maintaining all standard/preventive maintenance, that perhaps it is time to think of replacing this car, especially if there proves to be any truly major transmission problem found?
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I'm currently using a 2010 Impala as a loaner. I had bought a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe from a dealer and 5 days later the engine blew. I've been using loaners from them for over a month until the engine is replaced or I decide on a different car. They have a junkyard engine on the floor, but they only have one mechanic so things don't get done on time. This Impala has 107K.
I did the carfax thing and it was a rental for the first 2 years, then owned privately. Occasionally the ABS light and t/c light come on but I'm convinced it's a chafed wire because it seems to only come on when I turn the steering wheel a certain way. They had checked the codes and came up with nothing 'wrong', which makes sense to me... it seems like either a crappy connection or chafing or something. This will need to be addressed and fixed before I sign anything but....
My dilemma right now is this: The roads are currently snow packed. If I punch the gas pedal from a dead stop there is sometimes a slight hesitation and a whirring sound, oddly enough it sounds a lot like a windshield washer pump. The car runs flawlessly otherwise. I asked a friend who also owns a 2010 Impala and he says he's never heard such a noise. I don't see how anyone could miss it. If I disable the t/c, there is no noise.
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I drive a 1998 honda civic 5 speed manual transmission. The transmission is loud in all gears(including reverse) nearly all the time. It is not exactly a grinding sound, but that is as close as I can describe it. When taking off from a stop, sometimes it won't initially make the sound, but around 15-20 mph it will start to make the sound in 1st or 2nd gear. Once the sound starts, it won't go away. I can't link the time when it starts making the noise to any particular RPM.
I've hard the car for 5 years and 50,000 miles and it's made this noise the whole time I've had it. It is annoying more than anything (shifts smoothly, clutch not slipping). Someone who looked at my car shrugged his shoulders and said "when the clutch goes, put in a whole new transmission, that will probably fix it".
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Car needed a new battery, second year in a row--beside the point. But it had been smelling hot and smoking like for ever since I could remember even on short drives. The mechanic said oil was all over and had to wash it all inside. It doesn't use much oil, but I did add some occasionally when I used to drive a lot. In Nov., he changed oil and overfilled about 1/2 qt at least. He thought all ok and no problem--no major leak or anything, but it still smells hot and the oil looks black and I have driven it very little and oil is at fill still as overfilled. I am estimating maybe 500 to 1000 miles driven would be TOPS. Should it be so black? The CHANGE oil light comes and stays on. I know time wise, it is time to change the oil, but it is hardly driven. Is the light controlled by time and not usage (mileages)? Should I be concerned with the black color and change light since I hardly drove it? Is it ok to drive a couple hundred till I can get it in to change? I have a trip to take.
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I have a 2008 Chevy Impala. I've owned it for 14 months and put about 12,000 miles on it in that time. It's had basic servicing (rotations, oil, oil filter, cabin filter, etc. changes). It hasn't given me problems---but suddenly I have one and I'm not sure how major it is.
I made a drive from New York to Western Mass yesterday...couple hundred miles, but nothing huge. It drove fine all yesterday after I arrived...again, no problems. This morning, I went to start it...everything's okay. But then I went to shift it out of park...the button will not depress. I restarted a few times...no luck. I kept trying to depress the petal to shift it; I couldn't even shift it into neutral when not started. I am not sure what in the world is going on.
I've read numerous forums on this---it seems to be a common problem with these cars. What's not so clear is what to do with this. Responses range from---stick a screwdriver into some hole all the way to just go on and junk the car, it's useless. That's why I am coming here to get clearer guidance on resolving this problem, hopefully in an economical way.
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My 2005 Impala will have from time to time a hard shift where there is a big clunk_usually 1st gear. I had it at a transmission shop last year and they could not find anything wrong. What is going on.
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I have a 2008 Impala that has been having interlock shift issues for about a week. The interlock shift button would not depress. I was able to remove the center console and take a look at some of the wiring. It there's a bundle of wires and there is a black wire that appears to be severed. From what I've read, this is a common problem with the Impala models from 2006 through 2008...it should have been a recall, but for some reason was not. How can I do a low-cost DIY repair on this that's going to be solid and prevent recurring problems?
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Why does my 2000 chevy impala whistle when i accelerate? it also seems to shift hard.
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Got a 2004 Chevy Impala with 99K miles. Speedometer seems to be acting sporadically often. Sometimes, it will shift 10 or 20 mph "faster" than actual speed then, sometimes, it goes to the "maximum" speed on the dial and just stays there with the car on or off. Then a few days later, starts working normal again.
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2007 Chevrolet Impala 1LT3.5L Flex Fuel EngineAuto Transmission with shift lever on the steering column29,980 miles
Bought new Nov 2006 so is now four and a half years oldThe drive train is still under warranty (6 years or 60,000 miles). All recommended service per the manufacturers manual has been done. Book calls for first transmission service at 50,000 miles
NOTE: Previously at 19,600 miles the transmission cooler line fittings were replaced due to a small leak. Currently no evidence of a leak; no fluid on garage floor and the transmission fluid level on the stick shows right on the mark. Fluid still clean pale red and has no odor.
Majority of my driving is short hops with multiple stops, so the car gets heavy use shifted into and out of park gear. I do use the "parking brake" applying it after shifted into park and released before shifting out of park. I always have my foot on the brake pedal when shifting out of park.
PROBLEM: Having trouble shifting out of park on a cold engine or if the car has been sitting for an hour or more since turned off and put into park gear. Oddly enough, if I'm running a series of errands where the car has been in park for only 5 to 30 minutes, there is no problem shifting out of park gear. But if the car sits long enough for the engine to cool then it becomes hard to shift. The longer the time it sits in park the harder it is to shift out of park when the car is started.
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I own a 2001 chevy impala 3.8 and I recently had a good friend of mine whose going to school as a mechanic install a manifold gasket upper and lower but now I am hearing this loud tick tick tick sound for about 2-3 min every time i start my car in the morning and then the noise goes away and its normal it never made this noise before is it harmful and break my engine or is it okay to just leave it....
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Cars transmission slips during take-off . 180,000 miles , does it need service, modulator valve or replacement?
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2002 cheverlot impala . the oil pressure switch keeps going bad and the diaphragm bust and oil comes out where the plug is. had to replace four in over a year . why and what make them go bad ?
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My impala over heated on me and it doesn't turn on..... What is wrong with it?
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Every so often while driving in the city my car starts shifting rough between 1st-2en and 2en-3rd gears. If I stop; turn off the engine and then restart it stops. The car has 107,000 mi. and the fluid has always been changed as recomended. Do I have a shift selonoid going out somewhere?
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O.K. first of all I had an issue with the Odometer pointer being jumpy. Sometimes it wouldn't move. Now I replaced the input sensor at first and did not fix the problem. I replaced the output sensor and fixed it. "BUT", Now, I have a problem with the transmission shifting. I get an engine light while driving and the 2nd gear seems to take its time shifting and when it does it make the left side drive shaft kick in hard and spends my wheel to a screeching effect. Plus a thump on the transmission. I rechecked the sensor for connection and reinstalled. Drove the car still have the same issue?
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1991 4x4 f250 idi w e4od w 3:55 ratio... The truck is slow to engage in reverse, about 5-10 sec. It also has a very hard shift 1-2. All other shift points are good. Drop down is good, and TC lock up happens at all the right points (feels like anyway).
I've had the truck for about 2 years now, replaced several sensors an harnesses and a full fluid change to solve other problems but this still remains.
Sometimes when I start it in the morning if I let it sit and idle for a few min it will engage reverse much quicker AND shifts way smoother and constant. Shifts smoothly thro all gears, holding a constant 1800-2000 rpms with no drop or lug. Or do I need a rebuild?
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my 2002 chevy impala has had the check engine light on for a while now i took it to a shop and he said my engine was bad. I asked for the codes he got he said he just told me my engine was bad why do I need codes. I talked to another mechanic this week and he said he'd look at it, that it might not be that because I should of got a print out for what I paid for. SO I got a oil change today and when i left I saw in the comments that they put class 2 oil pan leak and a class 2 transmission leak. Could that be why my check engine light is on? How bad is a class 2 transmission leak?
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I have a 2002 Chevy Impalah 100k miles that frequently won't start. When I put the key in the ignition, I get lights, radio, and all electrical signs. But no sound from the engine. No matter how many times I try to turn the ignition, I get nothing.
But then when I stop trying and then come back to the car 5 to 10 minutes later, the car will start with no problem. This seems to happen randomly--sometimes first thing in the morning, sometimes after being parked for an hour. I can go for days with no problems and then it will start happening (randomly) again.
I just brought the car back from a dealership--they couldn't reproduce the problem and can't find anything wrong with the car. What systems or parts might be malfunctioning?
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