Chevrolet - HHR :: 2006 - Won't Start Up After Being Driven For 20 To 30 Minutes
May 12, 2012
This issue has been stumping the mechanics. My wife's HHR has 113,000 miles on it and has been trouble free up to now. The last two months it will suddenly not want to start after being driven for 20 - 30 minutes and then sitting for an hour to 75 minutes. It turns over but won't start. Even more strange if you then wait for a full hour it will start right up. Mechanics are stumped as they cannot duplicate the problem.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
Fuel Pump and Fuel Pump Relay replaced after 115,000 miles. On occasion, engine will turn over but not crank ... wait 10 minutes and the engine will start. No security light (passlock) or engine trouble codes displayed or recorded. Once the engine starts, it runs smoothly and normally. Problem of starting did not occur until the fuel pump and relay were replaced.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2000 Ford Taurus SES that jerks heavily after being driven for about 5 mins. She starts right up, idles well, runs well in the beginning but then suddenly will start jerking when pressing on the accelerator. I'll pull to the side, put the car on neutral and rev the engine a little to see if any hesitation - NONE. Then once I put it in drive again and step on the gas, it feels like the tranny or something is jerking and about to fall off. If I park it and turn the car off for a while, then return to it, start it and drive it, it'll run fine for a few minutes and then the problem will start again.
View 14 Replies
Our car's don't have as great acceleration performance when hot / after having been driven for 30+ minutes?
View 6 Replies
We own a 2010 Honda CRV and at 25,000 miles the TPMS light started coming on every time the car was driven for thirty minutes on the highway. It has been to the dealership four times now and it is still not fixed. They first relearned the system and then they replaced the component that the sensors communicate with and the light continued to come on every time. They then replaced all four sensors as well as the radio. The light still came on again after thirty minutes into a long drive at high speed. The air conditioner panel was swapped with another and problem still not solved. They replaced two more brand new sensors on rear tires for new ones because the rear tires still showed faulty sensors.
For some reason they decided to take the tires off and replace with tires from another CRV they had on their lot which had alloy wheels and not steel and they test drove it and claimed the TPMS light did not come on. This was a waste of time because they just put the original tires back on anyway. Every time the car was taken in they claimed they fixed it and test drove it to make sure. After four visits to the dealership and the last time they had it for over a week, the car is not fixed and the TPMS light still comes on.
View 1 Replies
I have a 1987 Chevrolet Celebrity that on the exterior is in pretty rough shape but seems to run great overall. The car is only driven to and from work which is only about 4 miles each direction. So it is drive 8-10 miles a day 5 days a week. It starts great and doesn't seem to have any problems except for the flickering oil light. After about 10 minutes of driving the oil light will start to flicker whenever the car is stopped (i.e., a stop light or drive-through) As soon as I start to drive again it will stop flickering. This problem seems exacerbated on especially not days and it happens earlier than normal. It does have an oil leak so I check the oil often but this happens even when the oil is at a normal level. I don't really want to take the car in because it isn't worth anything and I don't really want to invest money into it. What might cause a flickering oil light?
View 10 Replies
The problem started several months ago. At first it would only happen once in a while and would only last about 5 mins. The first time it happened I had it towed to my shop and it ran fine when it got there. Go figure. They told me they couldn't diagnose it if it wasn't acting up while they had it. Makes sense. But it never does it when I'm there for routine maintenance. Now it's doing it for twenty minutes at a crack. It's usually fine around town unless I get stuck in stop and go traffic. When it usually acts up is when I get on the road between work and home.
Every time I stop for gas I have to wait for it to decide it wants to start again. All of this is putting heavy wear on my starter. I changed the oxygen sensor (position no. 01), because that was the only error code that showed up. That didn't fix it. My mechanic says he thinks the next best step might be the cam and/or crank sensor. If not that, then he thinks we should change out the brain. Somebody else said it might be the fuel pump goin out. because I travel too far for work and I can't afford to fix things that probably won't solve the problem.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT with 94k miles. On cold mornings I have consistent problems with the car's electronics. They can be as benign as a warning bell about 2-3 minutes after starting driving. Sometimes, one of the warning lights will accompany the bell (power steering, traction control, etc), and then return to normal. Some mornings, all of the gauges will not work/stop working for the first 2-3 minutes of driving and then return to normal. The worst case scenario is that the car will not start at all. All lights, radio, etc. will work, but the car will not crank. I have had the car to a couple of shops where they have tested the battery and starter.
Both are new and working fine. No codes are ever generated. My question is how can I go about isolating what appears to be an electrical (or electronic) fault somewhere in the system that gets aggravated by cold weather. I read in another forum that the ignition system in other GM cars (the Saturn ION was one example) would trigger a fault in the ignition system in cold weather and the KeyPass security system would shut down the ignition for 10 minutes. For me, it's only occasional that the car will not start, but there is some electrical issue most every day that it's below 40 overnight. I have never had an issue after the car has started once during the day - this only happens on the first start of the day. Only once did the car go 2 days without starting.
1. Battery cables?
2. fuses?
3. etc.?
View 4 Replies
I got this truck from my step father, drove it from mississippi to washington (state) with minor problems. It's been sitting in my driveway for the last 6 months and I probably drive it once a week. I loaned it to my sister-in-law and she drove it for a couple of days with no problems. She went out one morning to take it and it wouldn't start, just cranked it for a few minutes and gave up. To make a long story even longer, I though it was fuel so I checked the pump, changed the filter, drained some fuel thinking water might have gotten in, ... to no success. I then started looking at electrical. Spark was getting to at least one plug. Pulled the distributor cap and cleaned it all up, replaced all the plug wires, and then tried starting it with the same results. (Oh, by the way, no check engine light so I assume no codes).
This goes on for a couple of weeks as it's in the driveway and I only pop the hood when it's not raining (we live just outside of Seattle). The other day I have the hood open, my wife decides to check on me since she thinks I'm talking to God and is wondering why I would use that kind of language when address a diety. I ask her to jump in and crank it while I pull a plug wire to see if I'm getting spark....again. Low and behold, the truck starts right up. I jump in to see if it's throwing a code and nothing. The thing is running great. I did notice that there is a ticking coming from the engine compartment and I realize the plug wire is still disconnected so I turn it off (with much hesitation) connect the wire, go back inside to start it and the thing won't start. I'm a private pilot and they say, if you're flying along and you do something and the engine stops, undo what you just did. So, I go back out, unplug the spark plug wire, and the thing starts right up. So, I start thinking, try another plug wire. I reconnect it, try another, and it won't start. So, what I figure is that it will only run when the second to the front cylinder plug wire on the drivers side on the engine is disconnected.
View 7 Replies
I drive a 2009 Chevy Cobalt. A really great car except for that when I drive through a puddle of water (no matter how deep) and have to stop immediately after, it hesitates and makes a squealing noise as soon as I hit the gas. My interior lights will also dim and the force my air/heat is blowing will lower. After about 5-10 seconds, however, the car will act normal. My check engine light does not come on nor any other lights indicating an issue. Thought it could possibly be a belt but not sure.
View 2 Replies
I see it's been 7 months since my daughters last oil change, yet the car has just over 1000 miles since the last oil change. I'm wondering if I should change it for good measure or wait ( it's a 1999 chevy malibu)....
View 19 Replies
My 1998 malibu starts most of the time, there is a continual light on the dash and according to the maintenance book from chevy, they are saying check your emissions system. Also on the times when the car does not start right away, the oil, battery light also goes on; the sound is rrrrr, weaker and weaker, wait 5 minutes and can start the car. This has been the pattern. Diagnostics say it is the crank shaft sensor..... I have already read your stream about crank shafts sensors.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2000 Chevy Impala and it seems that every now and then when I try to start the car the security feature activates and I have to wait 10 mins to try to start it again. On some occasions when the 10 mins are up and I try to start it the feature reactivates and I wait another 10 mins. This actually happened on a ferry ride and I held up the offloading of vehicles. My question is, Will a remote starter installation alleviate this issue? If not. What can I do?
View 5 Replies
I own a 2001 chevy impala 3.8 and I recently had a good friend of mine whose going to school as a mechanic install a manifold gasket upper and lower but now I am hearing this loud tick tick tick sound for about 2-3 min every time i start my car in the morning and then the noise goes away and its normal it never made this noise before is it harmful and break my engine or is it okay to just leave it....
View 12 Replies
I have a 2006 Saturn Ion coupe and it occasionally won't start after a cold (below 32 degrees) night. What happens is on certain mornings, I'd go and start the car but the engine won't turn. The radio plays, the dome lights go on, the engine just won't turn, at all. The funny thing is without me doing anything else, when I try it after around 10 minutes, it starts right up and runs fine the rest of the day. Could the 10-minute wait be indicative of a frozen fuel line that's been thawed by the addition of gasoline when I press the gas pedal to start to car? Or is it something to do with the electrical system?
View 5 Replies
It will turn over just fine but it won't start. If we wait almost exactly 10 minutes, it will start fine.
View 4 Replies
I've brought it to the dealer and mechanically, they can find nothing wrong with it. Their hunch is the hood deflector/bug deflector at the front of the car.
It just sounds really embarrassing as the sound is loud and I can hear it in the car with windows closed and no radio. I don't want to take off the deflector because I think it looks good.
View 4 Replies
So I've got the problem where the engine won't start when it's been driven a while. The engine cranks and starts, but the RPM retards/drops until it reaches 0 after about a second or two.
I've measured voltage to and from the fuel pump relay. It gets 12 volts and spits out 7.5 volts with ignition on and engine not running. This is the correct voltage, so I see no reason to suspect the relay being the culprit. Besides; I can feel the relay clicking and hear the fuel pump working when the problem occurs, meaning that they both should be working fine. That's the conclusion I've reached, let me know if you think I should investigate the relay more thoroughly.
This has led me to start thinking that the ECU is getting some bad input from one of the sensors monitoring the conditions of the engine, resulting in an incorrect fuel mixture.
The first sensor I checked was the coolant temperature sensor, which turned out to be quite correct - a couple of % lower than what the table says it should be. Could this have any effect?
What other sensors are sending important signals to the ECU, possibly contributing to bad fuel mixture? Air Mass? Air Flow? Oxygen Sensor? Are there any vaccuum hoses or idle valve components that could cause this behaviour?
View 19 Replies
So at cold start, my my car squeals but once I drive for a mile, it goes away. I think it is the belt. How can I test it to see.
As well, seems like it runs a little rough right now when I am sitting idle at a stop light. Could the belt be causing this?
View 2 Replies
My 1999 Civic, manual trans, 127k, 1.6 4 cyl, has problems starting if the car has been sitting for more than 1 hour. For example, if I go to store for 5 min and start the car, it starts up instantly. Car drives fine and when I "Floor it" Peddle to the floor, i have all the power there. Its just when i start the car after 1 hour of sitting, or over night, it takes a good 5-10 seconds of cranking to start. What could be wrong?
View 7 Replies
Wheel bearing replacement. I think my drivers side is shot. Making clucking and squealing noises if driven around town. Doesn't sound bad on the highway.
View 49 Replies
