Chevrolet - Express :: 1996 - Code P0305 - Misfire In 5?
Sep 3, 2011
96 Chevy express 1500 V8-305. Have a P0305 code...Misfire on 5. Let me tell you everything I have done so nobody wastes their time.
I have, replaced the entire ignition system, "EVERYTHING" including a new distributor...Not the problem... I did a compression test...Not the problem...injector cleaning...not the problem.
When I moved the wire harness that goes into the "spyder" fuel injector system the engine smoothed out. I untaped the harness from around the plug and applied pressure to each wire the engine smoothed out. The back row 2nd pink wire seems to cause the most reaction.
My question is...Is it the wire harness or is it the injector system not reading plug? or could it be a combination of the 2? If I replace the wire harness might I still have to replace the injector system?
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I have a 1999 ford ranger 3.0 6 cyl with 211,110 miles It started running rough without any previous warning signs. In idle its barely noticeable, once i put it in gear it gets rougher and when driving around 40 to 45 mph it roughly shakes and shimmies. Once I get past the 40 to 45 mph range it settles back down. Is there a specific issue that would cause that at that speed. When going up over a bridge the check engine light blinks.
I changed the spark plugs and new wires and it offered no success even though one of the plugs were black (to much gas). I have borrowed a diagnostic tool and got P0305 cylinder 5 misfire, I am thinking fuel injector to replace, what else should I be looking at?
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I have a very Big problem with my Ford Escape 2002 I have this problems code: P0305 accuses Cylinder #5 P0306 accuses Cylinder #6.
I already change the gasket i buy the felpro Kit, and i Also replace all the sparks and spark plug boots, I clean the air sensors and i also replace the EGR, i try to switch cables, and all is the same the car start buy when i accelerate it just go off, i don't know what can i do next, somebody told me to change the fuel injector, i take the pressure in both spark holes the number 4 was 150 and the 5 and 6 was 120, No leaks oil. My car is a Ford Escape 2002, XLT 3.0 4x4
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Here is my situation : I have a F150 1999 4x4 ext cab with 326 000 km. A little while ago I got a P0401 code so I decide to clean the TB first and at the same time change plugs and wires since they were overdue. The same code came back and a misfire. Ordered EGR valve, DPFE sensor and selenoid. Realize that I had ordered crappy plugs by mistake. I change all plugs. Had to wait for the EGR valve and others to arrive. I drove the truck for a while since I did not have the time to change the valve and others, during that time the misfire did not come back. Yesterday I change the EGR and others. Today I get a truck that runs really rough and got new codes , P0305 and P0174. I'm really confused now on what should be my next step, should I change the coils, can a P0305 cause a P0174. Should I change vacuum hose going to the EGR , selenoid and DPFE.
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My 2006 Chevy Express 3500 (cutaway) 6.0L won't start when the outside temperature is below 35 degrees. Warmer than 35, it starts right up. Seems to be a fuel problem, as it fires, but doesn't keep running. I can start it by fooling around with the position of the gas pedal, but usually it takes a few minutes of cranking. My mechanic thought it was low fuel pressure and replaced the fuel pump- a thousand dollars later, it is no different.
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So i got two codes.... P0300 and P0305. I am thinking its the coilpacks because i changed the spark plugs a few months ago. Cleared it last week and came back today. What else could it be? And is it ok to just change one coil pack or do i have to do all of them? The recall was done in 2007.
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I'm getting consistent P0305 and P0307 misfire codes when my 4.2L engine is revved past 5,000 RPM. Have a done a bunch of diagnostics including a new timing belt to no avail.
Specifics:
I have 2001 Audi A6 with a 4.2L 40V engine (yes, I know it isn't a Touareg but the motor is the same!). Timing belt replaced about 1.5 years ago and it runs great. However, I'm getting some codes. 1) At high RPM (over 5,000 rpm) under load, I consistently get a P0300, P0305 and a P0307. Happens like clockwork. As soon as I hit 5,000 rpm, those three codes post. 2) After driving around for a bit, I get a P0340 (Cam position Sensor). Things I have done, all with no change: 1) Checked for Vacuum Leaks 2) Replaced all the spark plugs 3) Moved all the coil packs from one side to the other 4) Replaced the Cam position Sensors 5) Moved all the injectors from one side to the other 6) Inspected (as best I could) the variable cam timing system under the valve covers. Brown chain guides looked OK.
Finally, I changed the timing belt to no avail. When I disassembled, I found the motor was perfectly in time. My marks from the first change ~18 months ago were still in place and everything lined up. I was able to install the crankshaft lock and cam locking bar with the timing belt in place (it wasn't even off a fraction, the locking bar slid right in). I installed a new belt and all the rollers + tensioner. Didn't put in a new water pump but changed all the other pieces. The new install went great and I was able to get almost exactly the 5mm gap on the tensioner after spinning the motor a few times that Bentley talks about. Put it back together and took it for a spin. DARN!@ The same codes post at exactly 5,000 RPM: P0300, P0305, P0307.
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My 1996 S10 2.2 liter pickup has been having some 'issues'. Truck has been kind to me over the years, but now is running a bit rough. It has an irreguler idle and continues to run this way through all speeds. The blinking code reads "cylinder 1 misfire". I did all the basics. I changed the plugs and wires, ignition coils and fuel filter. Here is where is gets tricky, after changing the fuel filter, it ran great again. Then it started to run rough again later that day. I thought I somehow clogged up the new filter, so I removed the new one for inspection. Realizing there was nothing wrong with it, I reinstalled. Truck ran great again. Went out to drive it to work a couple hours later and it started fine, then after about 10 seconds of running, it went back to the rough idle.
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Have a code PO305. Replaced coil. Plugs and wires. Checked front injectors. They make that correct clicking noise when listened to with a long screwdriver touching their bases. Attempted to listen to rear injectors. Only could touch outer two and they make more of a swishing noise. CEL will blink after driving higher speeds but will return to steady on when engine is turned off and rested for a few minutes. Does have new fuel filter. Newer pump. Newer Cat. CEL came on when driving at highway speed with cruise control on. Engine is a 3.0 not flex.
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The check engine light is on in my 1996 Honda Civic. The code for it is P1382, which is supposed to be either a misfire or the ignition control system. It runs fine most of the time, but intermittently cuts out while I am driving sometimes. I have replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter and the check engine light actually went off after replacing the fuel filter, but came back on the second time I drove the car. The distributer was replaced not quite a year ago with a reman distributor.
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Got a 1996 Ford Ranger with the 4.0L in it that has a misfire on the #3 cylinder and giving check engine code: P303. Have tried new plugs, wires, distributor, switching out the coil pack with a known good, checked injectors for pulse, checked injectors, moved injectors and still the misfire remains on #3. Removed the valve covers and all appears to be well.
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Ok, my 1996 Buick Regal is acting up. I got a CEL, which was a P0306 (Cylinder #6 misfire), took the car to my shop, and they diagnosed as a faulty Ignition Control Module. Fast Forward, a day later, the car now has a hard start problem and throwing the same code, plus a P0102 Mass Airflow Sensor.
So my questions are:
1) Could a faulty ICM cause a single cylinder misfire, did they just replaced a random part? I would think a bad ICM would a multiple misfire considering on this car each coil controls 2 cylinders.
2) Are the two codes related? ie fix one, and the other would go away? or are they separate issues?
3) What could be wrong with my car?
This mechanic has been in my family for years, however, I'm not very pleased that a day later, my car seems to have more problems than before. Am I being too harsh?
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So my Pacifica, after a long road trip around a year and a half ago, had it's check engine light come on. The meter read P0305, which is cylinder 5 misfire. When I got home, my local trusted mechanic replaced the coil and wire. Since then, the same misfire has occurred at least 4 times, and 3 of which he replaced the same parts (free warranty swap of the parts). The last time, he was determined that it wasn't simply the parts going bad. I concur. It has now lasted roughly a month and the light is back on with the same code. The spans have been as little as a week between leaving the shop and the light coming back on. I personally don't feel the car riding rougher than normal, but my wife does. I don't smell gas, have odd colored exhaust, or any other issue. The only other thing, which idk if it's related, is a clicking noise from the engine, which quickens with revving, perhaps the risers. What else could it be? I read that Chrysler's go to is a valve spring retainer lock and a MAP sensor that accompanies it.
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1997 chevy k1500 ... I have a misfire on cylinder 3 that i cannot figure out the cause. The idle is rough, backing out after starting is very rough, it seems to pick up at higher rpms but once the truck upshifrts to the next gear it shakes like a leaf in fall. within the past year the engine was rebuilt all new seals a new fuel pump, new injectors, new everything practically. so far i have done the following:
compression test results:125-130psi
fuel pressure test results: 50psi once primed, 50psi with engine running, no immediate pressure loss after engine is shut off
new spark plug wires
new spark plugs
replaced all four o2 sensors
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I'm getting a P0305 error code (#5 cylinder misfire) on my wife's 2007 sonata. Wanted to know where cylinder # 5 is located. Also, it would be useful to know where all cylinders are located, for future reference.
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I own a cirrus 2000 which lately have been giving me trouble. I took it to a mechanic for tune up and ended up having a lot of issues. At the moment I am having a lot of rattle or hard driving. The car shakes alot and recently I took it for a diagnostic and the result was P0303 and P0305 and vacuum leak. What causes this problem and how can I get it fixed?
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So I have a 1996 Chevy Lumina (3.1L V6 engine) and I keep getting a DTC code P0101, which is a Mass Airflow Sensor malfunction. It's rather annoying because every time this happens, my engine shuts off. I'm talking no power steering, no power breaks, no acceleration, nothing. So I replaced the mass airflow sensor and it continues to stop about every five minutes. However, it does something odd and that is that the car drives just fine when it's in Overdrive and stops when it's in regular drive. I don't know if that's important, but I thought it might diagnose the problem.
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I have a 2000 Impala with a 3800 V6 series 2 with 165,000 miles. The only code I had was a P0300 Multiple random misfire that occured off and on at first, Worse in the city Better on Highway. It would start running on half the cylinders and bogged down, with the check engine light flashing, after getting onto the highway it would straighten itself out at first. I thought i had water in the gas so i ran some heat through it. straightened out for a day then happened again so I thought maybe a should run some premium gas in it, The car ran like total crap until the premium was gone, so i thought maybe it's running too rich, I put 87octane in it and it ran great for a day or two, then it gradually got worse to where it would not straighten up on the highway, tried to die at stoplights and i had to drive it with 2 feet to get it home and park it. I've replaced the battery, spark plugs, wires, ICM checked good, coil packs are good, replaced fuel Pressure regulator, looked for arcing on the spark plug heat shields and it will not start. It turns over but doesn't try to ignite and when I get the slightest rumble of ignition, it backfires up through the manifold and I see a puff of gas or light smoke by the exhaust manifold.
The car had a vacuum leak around the intake manifold cover gasket and a leak on the fuel rail. I pulled the fuel rail off my impala, snugged up the rest of the intake bolts then disassembled the fuel rail, flushed it out and cleaned the injectors the best i could, then reassembled it. before i re-installed the fuel rail I hooked it up to the fuel lines outside of the engine and tried to start the vehicle. all injectors had a nice spray pattern. So i installed the rail and it still didn't start but it had more combustion than before although it's still backfiring like before. Checked the fuel pressure by turning the key on and the fuel pressure went to zero very fast. I blew the rail out with air so to make sure i didn't damage the regulator I replaced it with the old one, ran the test again with same results, so i reinstalled the new regulator. I performed the fuel pressure test a few more times while moving the fuel hoses and when i moved the back supply line the vacuum loss stopped then dropped to zero when i let off of it. So I replaced the fuel line connector and O-rings on the injectors. It no longer has a vacuum leak.
I cleaned the EGR Valve out and had no luck there, then I removed the Idle Air Control Valve-pushed the pintle in, re-ionstalled it and WooHoo! it started! Although it still ran like crap with the same random misfire I was still happy to hear it start.I pulled the plugs on it to do a compression test and all 6 cylinders have between 180-190psi so the engine is in good condition mechanically. I installed new plugs before getting the car restarted and when i removed them for the test they were covered in thick black soot after running for roughly 15 minutes max.
I have (2) 2000 Chevy Impala's so I've swapped sensors from my wifes car to see if it would fix it. I've tested the following MAP, MAF, IAC, coil packs and ECM. None of these made the car change. I believe it is a timing chain because the car has never had a new timing chain and is way overdue, but I haven't had a code for a crankshaft position sensor. Can the timing chain be bad without throwing a code? It's not out of time enough to change the valve timing because I had a good compression test but its not firing right and still has the multiple random misfire. I have not checked or received a trouble code for o2 sensors, crankshaft position sensor or cam sensor. Something has the timing retarded and is dumping extra fuel into the engine because my new plugs looked like they were in the engine for a year.
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My 03 Chev Avalanche is giving me a P0300 code (multiple or random misfire). With no distributor or individual coil is this something I can fix myself or is it shop time?
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2006 Chevy Express 3500 ... Vehicle surges, hesitates, stalls, backfires, and is hard to start after stalling.No codes are thrown, and have had the fuel system checked out without results. 159.000 miles. last mechanic said it was not a spark plug issue. Been an ongoing problem for several months and getting worse all the time.
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2011 F150 - Is it possible to disable the express up/down function and still have your power windows work?
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