My 2013 Chevy Equinox has 30,000 miles. When the car runs with the air conditioner on, it has a whining sound that goes off when the A.C. is turned off. I have taken it to my local dealer several times, and they say that the whining is normal for this vehicle. They also say that Chevrolet will not authorize a repair under warranty for this problem.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 Equinox with about 52000 miles on it. At about 48,000 I took it in for the 50G maintenance. The car ran with a fluttery sound that I did not really notice until it was brought to my attention. Recently the car began running rough and stalling when idling. there were no warning or indicator lights lit. I had OnStar run a remote diagnostic and they said there were no codes. The day after the diagnostic the check engine light went on , while at the same tie the rough idle and stalling went away.
I brought the car in for service at the dealer. They said that the car had several codes indicating low oil and the car was down 2 quarts but there was no leak. They also said the noise I heard was the timing belt. The noise is gone after the service and the car is running smoothly. Coincidentally, or not, I got a notice from GM saying they were changing the oil monitoring software on the 2010 Equinox to recommend me frequent oil changes.
1) What could cause the car to loose 2 quarts of oil over less than 6000 mile? Is this normal or an Equinox problem.
2) Would low oil cause the timing belt to make a noise.
3) Do I have a lemon and am I being ripped off y the dealer?
I have a 2010 Chevy Equinox and I hear a pinging noise when my car is idling and when I drive below 40m.p.h. It sounds like a diesel engine, when it isn't. I have the 2.4L Ecotech direct injection. The dealership says this is normal, but why is it so noisy. What if anything can I do about the noise or is there a problem with the Equinox?
View 4 RepliesI bought a 2012 certified preowned Chevy Equinox with 50,000 miles. After I drove it for 3,000 miles I had to take it to the dealer due to an engine noise which turned out to be a low oil level. They changed the oil and then told me that it's normal for these engines to burn a lot of oil. I drove it for 2,000 miles after the oil change and the oil level was low again. I took it back to the dealer and they topped off the oil and told me to come back after 1000 miles for an oil consumption test.I don't know much about cars but burning through that much oil does not seem normal to me.My question is, how can I make the dealer take responsibility for this car oil issues while it is still under warranty?Is it normal for these engines to consume high amounts of oil and for me to keep replacing about 3 quarts every 3,000 miles?
View 4 RepliesWe've noticed that when we have the inside air circulation on, we're still getting exhaust fumes from outside the vehicle and other "smells", too. I've never had this problem before and the dealership (and manufacturer) say that it isn't air tight and we would still get outside odors coming in. I don't accept this answer. We've never had this problem on any other vehicle we've driven. My husband has heart issues and when exhaust fumes still enter the car, it effects his heart. The only way to stop odors from entering the vehicle is to turn off the fan - but that creates other issues (especially with fogging up windows, etc). So, how do we remedy this? We've taken it in for maintenance, and they say everything is "shutting/securing" as it's supposed to be. There's no leak anywhere else. We don't accept this answer (and even one of the service techs say it shouldn't do that, but when they're told by the manufacturer that's what we have to tell the customer, that's what we have to do). My husband hates to ride in the Equinox now due to this problem. We've read up on the "Lemon Law" and may have to enforce it.
View 11 Replies08 equinox. Awd. Was parked outside is -5f temps. Got warning light for awd system at initial start. Drove 1/2 mi to gas station. Shut off and restart and no light. Maybe temp related? Read manual and it say owner may get a warning if awd systems experiences overheating issues? What the heck? What exactly did GM manual writer try to mean with that statement? I know the awd system is wimpy at best and I assume it is mostly some type of viscous/liquid clutch setup for rear power transmission? I do not have hitch and assume the warning is to discourage ANY heavy duty use of this suv?
View 5 RepliesIt's a 2007 Chevy Equinox. My brake lights and reverse lights do not come on, but all other lights do. Is this a serious problem?
View 9 RepliesHow to change the transmission oil and filter on a 2005 Chevrolet Equinox?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 Chevy Equinox with 104,500 mi. For the past 20,000 miles (2-1/2 yrs.) or so the transmission hesitates when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear. When this happens, the engine revs and the wheels lose power for a second or two, and then the shift completes.It happens anywhere from once or twice a week, to once a month.It never produces a "Check Engine Light" nor a "Code" when scoped the same day.It is more of a nuisance, although doing it while pulling into traffic could cause a nasty safety issue.I have had it checked by independent mechanics and a local Chevy Dealership and nobody has an answer.
View 5 RepliesWe have an 06 Equinox, and lately the low beams have been working intermittently. Also, I don't think the running lights are working either. Low beams don't work on auto or in the "on" position. The high beams do work. We took it to the dealership yesterday and they said we had a bad resistor and replaced it for $270. Tonight my wife tried to drive home after dark and no headlights. She has to take this vehicle on a business trip soon.
View 11 RepliesWe're on our third mechanic with no solution to our problem. My 2007 Chevy Equinox (93,000 miles) has performed flawlessly since I bought it new. Over the last 2 years, the brake light has come on a couple of times. Each time the brakes were reviewed by different mechanics who found nothing wrong other than the brake fluid being 1/4 cup low. Two bottle or less of 3 dot fluid were used to top of the brake fluid over 2 years. Two weeks ago we purchased 2 new tires and a REAR brake job from SHOP ONE, a tire/brake dealer.
The brake job was only because the car was nearing 100,000 miles and it seemed like a good idea. Immediately after the job, the brakes were extremely tight, barely giving to foot pressure. At freeway speeds one tire wobbled terribly, which SHOP ONE explained as the tire counterweight having fallen. SHOP ONE replaced the counterweight and pronounced the car fixed. Within 2 days, while on the freeway, the car started throbbing again, the brake stiffness was worse and the acceleration began to fail.
We towed the car to SHOP TWO, a very capable mechanic we've known for awhile. Computer codes show no problem with transmission or ABS or anything else. He said the problem was likely the master cylinder and booster, and took the following actions: Replaced FRONT brakes, master cylinder (OEM), booster (OEM), and rotors. The removed booster had more than a quart of liquid in it. He drove the car back and forth to his home to check performance with no problems.
When I drove the car back to my office the next day, the brakes seized up again, and I had to floor the accelerator to keep the car from dying. The car was towed back to SHOP TWO. The mechanic was able to replicate the problem but can't figure out what's causing it. There are and have been no signs of leaks. After seizing up. the car can be driven after 10 minutes of cool down.
The car is now at SHOP THREE, the dealer. Their computer diagnosis shows nothing wrong, but they recommend replacing the new master cylinder and booster with ANOTHER NEW master cylinder and rotor....
I have a 2006 equinox with 74000 miles that consumes up to 2+ quarts of oil every 2000 to 3000 miles between oil changes and the water in the fluid section of the car drops about one gallon of water thus causing the car to over heat what could be the problem. The engine light always comes on when i have more or less then 1/2 a tank of gas. The manual said this could be the gas cap that is producing the problem and is there a solution.
View 8 RepliesI purchased a new battery for my 2008 Chevy Equinox and have it installed. After they installed it, my car radio would not turn on at all. The clock on the radio interface had been reset to 12:00 when they disconnected the battery, but I could not reset the clock to the appropriate time after installation. After doing some research, I came up with two scenarios to look into:
-the fuse was damaged;
-or, the removal of the battery triggered a security lock down on the car radio that requires a code to be inputted to make it operable again.
I checked the fuse, and it worked fine. I looked up the security lockdown item in the manual, and it explicitly noted that if this were to be the case, the interface would clearly indicate the word "LOCKED." The interface does not indicate this. The only thing the interface indicates is the time, which is incorrect.
Are there any hypotheses as to why my car radio is now inoperable? And are there any suggested solutions for resolving this?
A few weeks back I heard a light squeak after going over the random speed bump from my driver side wheel. My mechanic didn't really think much of it at the time. It has gradually become more frequent, almost every time I drive now sometimes loud sometimes quiet. I am wondering if it is my control arm, what it could be? What would be the general price tag to get something like that fixed? I drive a 2009 Chevy Equinox.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Chevy Equinox with 73K miles. When I first start it up morning the car runs rough for about a minute or two and then smooths out. I took it to a mechanic who said there was oil on one of the plugs and to get rid of the car. I tried another mechanic on Craigslist and he replaced the upper plenum gaskets. It ran better for about a day or two and now the problem has resurfaced.
View 2 RepliesI am hearing a whining noise only after car has been running awhile and only when turning left. The noise seems to come from the back passenger side. What this could be?
View 4 RepliesSo I have a 2008 Chevy Impala LS that hasn't given me any real problems. I had some battery troubles recently that were the result of me leaving the parking/security lights on for 10 consecutive hours, but overnight-charged the battery and was good-to-go after that. But it seems like RIGHT after that was when the whining noise started.
It seems to be related to my power-steering system. I know this since the whining seems to pick up with acceleration and turning. However, I checked my power steering fluid and it did not appear to be depleted at all. I did notice, however, that it seems to be a light greenish color...which from doing a google search, I've gotten the impression that it's probably not supposed to be that color.
What exactly is going on here?
I drive a 2003 Chevy Cavalier with approximately 75,000 miles on it, and it has always run exceptionally well. However, during the last couple of months it has developed what I would consider a lower-pitched "whine" or "groan" emanating from the front of the car when making a turn. Here are a few specifics:
-The noise is more pronounced on tighter turns and/or when moving at a faster speed. For example, doing a U-turn causes the noise to be very pronounced; turning into a parking space at a very low speed barely creates any noticeable noise at all.-The noise seems to be worse when making a left turn than when making a right turn, however turning either direction can create the noise.-The noise seems to have gotten slightly more pronounced over time--that is, it doesn't seem to have been triggered by a single event such as running over a pothole.
I am not particularly well-versed in diagnosing car problems, particularly when it involves anything to do with the drive train (which is what I suspect here). Some rudimentary internet research seems to point towards a damaged or failing CV joint in one of the front wheels, although this has not been properly diagnosed. Thus, my questions are as follows:
-What is the likely source of the noise? Is a damaged CV joint the most likely explanation, or is this explainable in other ways?-How serious of a problem is this? If indeed it is the CV joint, my understanding is that this is an issue that needs to be addressed promptly as it could quickly become a dangerous situation (some reports indicate that the wheel(s) might come off while driving).
I recently had the windshield replaced on my 2006 Chevy Equinox, and for a few months everything was fine. Then the windshield started sounding like wind was coming through the top but it doesn't leak water. I have had the windshield reinstalled by the glass company and that didn't fix the problem. The local Chevy dealer tells me that they have had the same problem when replacing windshields on the 2006 Equinox that they can't get them to stay quiet, and their best advice was to buy a new car. Other than the very noisy windshield the car runs and drives fine and only has 120,000 miles on it.
View 5 RepliesMy Equinox had problems from when I bought it used at 23K miles. The evap hose recall was installed wrong and broke. The traction control went out and shut down my car in mid-drive (twice). Computer modules went bad. Timing chain had to be replaced. Then is was using 3 or more quarts of oil before reaching 3000 miles after an oil change, with no puddles on the ground. I received a letter from GM after it reached 120k miles, but the dealership was good enough to replace the whole engine anyway due to "problems" with this year and model. The catalytic coverters were bad at the time but not replaced though the "disappearing oil" from the bad engine seems to have caused that. What can I do to get this resolved without having to spend $1500-$2000 of my own money, that I don't have right now? (oh, one wheel hub assembly has just gone bad too)
View 5 RepliesI have a 2008 Chevy Equinox, and have had issues with the air conditioner for a while (see my other post: [URL] ....).
Lately, if the car is stopped in traffic or at a red light, I cannot get any cold air. The compressor will turn on, but only 2-3 seconds, then it shuts back off. It will cycle like this, on and off, about every 10-15 seconds while I am stopped. Each time this happens, the RPMs jump and the car lurches forward a little as well. As soon as I start moving at a decent speed (20 mph or so), the air gets cold again.
The recommendation from my other thread was to replace the heater control module.