Chevrolet - Equinox :: A/C Not Working When Car Stopped / Compressor Only Turns On For A Few Seconds
Sep 4, 2013
I have a 2008 Chevy Equinox, and have had issues with the air conditioner for a while (see my other post: [URL] ....).
Lately, if the car is stopped in traffic or at a red light, I cannot get any cold air. The compressor will turn on, but only 2-3 seconds, then it shuts back off. It will cycle like this, on and off, about every 10-15 seconds while I am stopped. Each time this happens, the RPMs jump and the car lurches forward a little as well. As soon as I start moving at a decent speed (20 mph or so), the air gets cold again.
The recommendation from my other thread was to replace the heater control module.
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I have checked the fuses for the Hazard and the Turn Signals. Both look fine. I tried replacing the turn signal flasher (which was a task in itself). After all of this it is still not working. What else could it be? Simple short?
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The other day I was driving with the air on high, Since the van is rather old, the compressor is quite loud. All at once the blower and the compressor stopped working at the same time. now I have no heat, defroster, vent plus when I slide the selector to AC. the compressor does not kick on.
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I have a 2006 Expedition with 90k miles. I am the original owner. don't drive the vehicle much just mostly when the family goes somewhere or when I'm putting the Jet skis in the lake.
About a year ago the air con went out and since I don't drive it that much I decided to fix it later, well now is later. How to diagnose the AC system. what I am looking for is a methodical step by step procedure for trying to find out what is causing my AC to not work.
the symptoms are, the compressor turns on runs for a few seconds and then turns off. inside the cab I can hear hear a hiss noise during the few seconds that the compressor comes on and fades away slowly when the compressor shuts off.
I bought a can of 134a with the gauge, I adjusted the gauge for the correct ambient temperature hooked up to the low side and was surprised to see that the Freon was only a little low. I topped it off but still no change in the compressor running.
I bought a set of manifold gauges from Harbor Freight (I know I know you get what you pay for) in any case I hooked up the gauges to see what the pressures are when the compressor turns on but only seeing a little change.
Any way I took my Speedy (expedition) to the local auto air conditioner shop the mechanic hooked his gauge set up to the vehicle, watched it for a few minutes, made some phone calls, came back. He did tell me that he was going to have to replace the compressor, condenser, dryer, expansion valves both front and back and flush the rest of the parts that did not get replaced. I suppose this is a good price if all that work really needs to be done???
However I would like to exhaust all of my options before I dump half the vehicles blue book value into the air conditioning. so I've been searching the internet and found that it is possible the problem may reside in a control valve that may be present in the type of scroll compressor that is in the expedition.
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We have an 06 Equinox, and lately the low beams have been working intermittently. Also, I don't think the running lights are working either. Low beams don't work on auto or in the "on" position. The high beams do work. We took it to the dealership yesterday and they said we had a bad resistor and replaced it for $270. Tonight my wife tried to drive home after dark and no headlights. She has to take this vehicle on a business trip soon.
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I have a problem with my A/C Compressor. The other day while going down the freeway my belt started squealing for a few seconds then stopped. Yesterday when my wife was driving it did it again, and then another time while at idle and the engine struggled and almost died.
I went to look at it last night thinking maybe the belt was loose, but what i found was when the A/C Tried to engage, you here the click, and you see the compressor clutch jolt but not spin. It tries to engage 3-4 times before the system stops and the ac light blinks. Also found some burnt belt on the clutch pully. To me it sounds like the Compressor is locked up or frozen somehow inside.
My first instinct is to get a new compressor. Ive done a bit of mechanic work but not much on A/C. If i replace the compressor, do i just have a shop vac it out, replace, and recharge? car has 150,000 miles, do i need to replace any other components? 2002 V6 Camry....
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The ABS light on my Chevy Prizm 98 comes on when I start the car and then turns off in a few seconds. The last few days the light does not go off the entire time the car is running. The light does not flash it just stays on. It's never done this before. Does this mean I have an issue with my brakes? I replaced the front brakes last year but I'm fearing/dreading rear brake replacement. I have no signs that they need to be replaced but am wondering if the ABS light is telling me I'm reaching the rear brake replacement day.
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So the A/C on my wife's 2013 Tiguan stopped working suddenly this past Thursday, just our luck this weekend was the start of a 95+ degree week. Took it to the dealership today for a diagnostic and they came back saying that the line between the condenser and compressor has a leak and needs to be replaced. They're estimating about $690 including tax for the job, this includes the AC evac and refill.
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Bought an 04' Pontiac Grand. AC worked fine on the test drive then after a few weeks the AC stopped blowing air. I can feel the compressor is working and the air is being conditioned but the blower motor does not turn on. I've tried using all the speeds and none of them work. I do not believe the controls are to blame but rather either
A.) resister or
B.) connector(s) or
C.) blown blower motor.
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I have a 2000 explorer and the a/c stopped working. I recharged the a/c because freon was low per the gauges and then the compressor would kick on, then the pressure would drop in a matter of seconds and it kicked off again. Then the pressure goes back up, compressor kicks on again and this just keeps doing this over and over but never gets cold. What's wrong? My a/c worked last year.
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I have an issue with the air conditioner of my prius. It just works while I am driving, but it does not work when I stop for a short while, such as waiting for signal. The fan is working fine. I visited a dealer and they told me the gas is leaking... but, they are wrong. I cannot believe them. The gas is fine and there is no leak and no problem exists at any other parts. Need to know about it? Should I replace the compressor?
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I have an early 99 F250. The a/c compressor stopped working. Have checked pressures, switches, freon etc. Found the switch in the dash is not getting power to send to the compressor. Where the feed for this switch is? I have checked all fuses, all good. The manual does not show a relay as being an a/c relay, so I am stumped without taking it somewhere now but I would like to avoid that.
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I have a 2003 Impala LS with around 114,000 miles. I noticed today that the control switch that turns on the AC or heat is not fully working right. My switch has 5 levels, and on levels 1 and 2 nothing happens. But when I switch to levels 3-4 or 5 it works just fine.
My question is is fixing this going to involve removing the entire dash from the car? My guess it's a contact issue, and figure it might be pricy to get repaired.
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We've noticed that when we have the inside air circulation on, we're still getting exhaust fumes from outside the vehicle and other "smells", too. I've never had this problem before and the dealership (and manufacturer) say that it isn't air tight and we would still get outside odors coming in. I don't accept this answer. We've never had this problem on any other vehicle we've driven. My husband has heart issues and when exhaust fumes still enter the car, it effects his heart. The only way to stop odors from entering the vehicle is to turn off the fan - but that creates other issues (especially with fogging up windows, etc). So, how do we remedy this? We've taken it in for maintenance, and they say everything is "shutting/securing" as it's supposed to be. There's no leak anywhere else. We don't accept this answer (and even one of the service techs say it shouldn't do that, but when they're told by the manufacturer that's what we have to tell the customer, that's what we have to do). My husband hates to ride in the Equinox now due to this problem. We've read up on the "Lemon Law" and may have to enforce it.
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08 equinox. Awd. Was parked outside is -5f temps. Got warning light for awd system at initial start. Drove 1/2 mi to gas station. Shut off and restart and no light. Maybe temp related? Read manual and it say owner may get a warning if awd systems experiences overheating issues? What the heck? What exactly did GM manual writer try to mean with that statement? I know the awd system is wimpy at best and I assume it is mostly some type of viscous/liquid clutch setup for rear power transmission? I do not have hitch and assume the warning is to discourage ANY heavy duty use of this suv?
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It's a 2007 Chevy Equinox. My brake lights and reverse lights do not come on, but all other lights do. Is this a serious problem?
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How to change the transmission oil and filter on a 2005 Chevrolet Equinox?
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I have a 2007 Chevy Equinox with 104,500 mi. For the past 20,000 miles (2-1/2 yrs.) or so the transmission hesitates when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear. When this happens, the engine revs and the wheels lose power for a second or two, and then the shift completes.It happens anywhere from once or twice a week, to once a month.It never produces a "Check Engine Light" nor a "Code" when scoped the same day.It is more of a nuisance, although doing it while pulling into traffic could cause a nasty safety issue.I have had it checked by independent mechanics and a local Chevy Dealership and nobody has an answer.
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We're on our third mechanic with no solution to our problem. My 2007 Chevy Equinox (93,000 miles) has performed flawlessly since I bought it new. Over the last 2 years, the brake light has come on a couple of times. Each time the brakes were reviewed by different mechanics who found nothing wrong other than the brake fluid being 1/4 cup low. Two bottle or less of 3 dot fluid were used to top of the brake fluid over 2 years. Two weeks ago we purchased 2 new tires and a REAR brake job from SHOP ONE, a tire/brake dealer.
The brake job was only because the car was nearing 100,000 miles and it seemed like a good idea. Immediately after the job, the brakes were extremely tight, barely giving to foot pressure. At freeway speeds one tire wobbled terribly, which SHOP ONE explained as the tire counterweight having fallen. SHOP ONE replaced the counterweight and pronounced the car fixed. Within 2 days, while on the freeway, the car started throbbing again, the brake stiffness was worse and the acceleration began to fail.
We towed the car to SHOP TWO, a very capable mechanic we've known for awhile. Computer codes show no problem with transmission or ABS or anything else. He said the problem was likely the master cylinder and booster, and took the following actions: Replaced FRONT brakes, master cylinder (OEM), booster (OEM), and rotors. The removed booster had more than a quart of liquid in it. He drove the car back and forth to his home to check performance with no problems.
When I drove the car back to my office the next day, the brakes seized up again, and I had to floor the accelerator to keep the car from dying. The car was towed back to SHOP TWO. The mechanic was able to replicate the problem but can't figure out what's causing it. There are and have been no signs of leaks. After seizing up. the car can be driven after 10 minutes of cool down.
The car is now at SHOP THREE, the dealer. Their computer diagnosis shows nothing wrong, but they recommend replacing the new master cylinder and booster with ANOTHER NEW master cylinder and rotor....
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I have a 2006 equinox with 74000 miles that consumes up to 2+ quarts of oil every 2000 to 3000 miles between oil changes and the water in the fluid section of the car drops about one gallon of water thus causing the car to over heat what could be the problem. The engine light always comes on when i have more or less then 1/2 a tank of gas. The manual said this could be the gas cap that is producing the problem and is there a solution.
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I purchased a new battery for my 2008 Chevy Equinox and have it installed. After they installed it, my car radio would not turn on at all. The clock on the radio interface had been reset to 12:00 when they disconnected the battery, but I could not reset the clock to the appropriate time after installation. After doing some research, I came up with two scenarios to look into:
-the fuse was damaged;
-or, the removal of the battery triggered a security lock down on the car radio that requires a code to be inputted to make it operable again.
I checked the fuse, and it worked fine. I looked up the security lockdown item in the manual, and it explicitly noted that if this were to be the case, the interface would clearly indicate the word "LOCKED." The interface does not indicate this. The only thing the interface indicates is the time, which is incorrect.
Are there any hypotheses as to why my car radio is now inoperable? And are there any suggested solutions for resolving this?
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