Chevrolet :: Engine Misfire / Exhaust Leak
Aug 16, 2015
What seemed to be and exhaust leak and wasn't so we decided that we should change the distributor cap and spark plugs and wires and now the engine is misfiring. We did everything correctly but don't know the reason for the engine misfiring and don't know why the car had symptoms of a exhaust leak and when taken to exhaust specialists they say there was no leak.
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I have a 2001 Malibu , I took my it in to find out why my cars engine light is on. They told me I have a small exhaust leak. Is this something I need to get fixed right away? How important is it that I get it fixed?
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2000 Chevy S10 pickup
Had the check engine light come on, and when I checked on the code it gave a 4th cylinder misfire. Autozone instructed me to simply replace my spark plug with a new oem plug.
I replaced the spark plug as instructed. After about an hour of driving, the check engine light goes off and I think, great! Problem solved. However, another hour of driving and the check engine light is back on again, without going away.
I headed back to autozone to get a readout, just to find that it's the same code. So I put another spark plug in. Same result - check engine light goes off after an hour, only to come back on again permanently after another hour.
Now, normally I would think, this must be the spark plug line that needs replacement,however I am sure there must be some clue in the fact that the check engine light turned off for an hour.
By the way, not sure if relevant, but I also found a lot of build up around the spark plug before I initially changed it.In fact, there was so much that I had to scrape around the plug with an awl, and blow out the crud with a compressor,just to get my socket into place without there being crud in the way.
Any clue what that check engine off/on clue might be?
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My '03 Jeep Liberty developed a quite audible hole in the exhaust system overnight (sound is coming from engine compartment) and at the same time has begun missing. The missing occurs most often in the low end of gears - once through the gears (in 4th or 5th) and at highway speeds it smooths out again. My question is are these two problems related?
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This S10 has 4 wheel drive and the V6 engine and has 88,000 miles on it. Just about everything except the engine has been replaced because it was a work and plow car and took a beating. It is a great plow car, by the way. Recently a cloud of smoke comes out of the exhaust when you start the engine that has been sitting overnight. Mechanic says it is just old, but someone said that replacing the umbrella seals might do the trick. Stopped at my local auto parts store and they had never heard of umbrella seals.
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cylinder with an exaust leak. On first morning start after the rpm drop to 500 the engine will shake periodically until I drive about half a mile then all is fine. I cleaned the trottle body at the area of the flap with throttle body cleaner and a tooth brush, and gave the car a tuneup. The problem went away for about 4 days but is back. What can I do to fix this.
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My Mazda 626 is in service for an engine warning light and my mechanic says that they will need to plug an exhaust leak in the rear manifold . And he's not sure that will solve the issue - a new cat converter may or may not be needed.
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This is a 2000 EX with 146k miles on it bone stock. I have not done any of the regular maintenance on it yet or even gotten to really check this problem out. I am not driving it at this time mainly due to this problem.
The noise is heard the best at the rear of the engine and underneath the truck as the video shows. It seems to slightly change in sound (maybe a tad bit quieter) once I put it in gear (drive and reverse), I have not really heard a change in it after the truck has warmed up either. It does not sound at all really metallic to me..
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I tore it apart and there was no gasket or donut ring in the flange. Is there supposed to be a gasket or donut ring? I can feel the leak with my hand. I have retightened & it still "tick-ticks" real bad.
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I just purchased a 2003 V10 with 270 000kms. The truck had had regular maintenance. It has an exhaust leak and runs a little bit rough. Could the exhaust leak cause the truck to run a little rough or am I dealing with another issue?
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I have a 97 Expedition with the 5.4 engine and 160k miles. Recently while having other work done I was told that I had an exhaust manifold leak due to broken rusted bolts.
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Strange ticking noise that you can hear in the cabin sounds almost like a exhaust leak or a fan blade ticking something under the hood.. I have had the dealer check it they say nothing is wrong i just can't believe a 75k car can have this noise...
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My GX had developed yet another issue. To start off my car has an exhaust leak presumably at the head. Thats what i been told. This condition would throw a P0430 code ( catalyst system efficiency below ) once or twice a week, which id just erase with my plug in tool. Im not sure if the new developed issue is related to it, but now the engine is running rough especially noticeable between 1000-2300 rpm. Feels like misfire. When driving i can feel a drone or a frequent shake if rpms are in that range or when unloading the motor and rpms are dropping. No codes! Timing belt was changed at 90k miles car has 150k now. Not sure if its due for another one now and this can be the cause.
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I hear a bit of exhaust leak noise from engine compartment only at a cold startup, it goes away in seconds. I am 700miles from home. If it's a nonessential fix i will drive home before fixing, or, if an easy gasket replacement, I have two more days here, and tools,garage, and competent support to diy the job.
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As it says, I have a tick. It's not apparent at idle and increases with engine speed.
Just spent $570 having bellowed up-pipes installed and while a little quieter, the tick is still there. What else tends to go out on these things? Manifold(s) cracked, manifold gasket(s)? It's seen high EGT's quite a bit but not for longer than 20-25 seconds.
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When in idle the car is fine, however when revving the engine up to 2500-3000 rpm there is a puffing noise from the exhaust pipe area. What this could be?There is only on puff when reaching 2500 rpm... When I asked mechanic he said "it's because there is a small engine... Its a cheverolet cavalier 2001...
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I replaced the oil pressure switch on an '07 Suburban 5.3L because the oil pressure was showing low once the engine warmed up. That did nothing, then I found out about that little filter/screen under the sensor. I intended to remove and clean the filter then reinstall it. While I was pulling it out, I dropped it back behind the engine and couldn't find it. I checked online and found a few people in other forums that said to just remove the screen as a "fix", so I left it out and put the sensor back in, just to get the vehicle drivable. It started right up and ran fine for me, parked it, and a after sitting for a few hours it started popping while driving with the SES light flashing on the drive home.
Code P0300 was set, no cylinder specific misfire codes were present. I checked the misfire data and cylinder #6 showed tens of thousands of misfires, #5 showed several hundred, but I think it was just picking them up from #6 since #5 is right after #6 in the firing order. I disabled each injector with a scan tool, all changed the idle except #6, it did absolutely nothing. #6 fuel injector had good pulse to it, I connected a fuel pressure gauge and put power/ground to injectors #6 and #4, both dropped the same fuel pressure. I did the "cylinder deactivation" test on the scan tool for the four cylinders that have it, they all did the exact same thing - the engine bogged way down for a couple seconds and then died. Is that normal? I can't say I've ever seen a V8 engine die before when running on 6 or 7 cylinders. I checked compression on cylinder #6, it showed very low, almost zero, but I tried it a few times and it would show just a little compression at times... valves staying shut? I'm thinking when I opened the pressure relief valve on the gauge and the piston was near the bottom of the cylinder may be when it showed some compression. I also switched the coil/wire/plug from #6 to other cylinders and the miss did not follow.
Could having that screen out cause this problem? Having the engine die when deactivating the cylinders makes me wonder if maybe it's commanding all four at the same time, although the test shows each cylinder being controlled separately. Using a MODIS, not a TechII. I just got done putting in a new filter/screen to see if it would make any difference, and of course it didn't.
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Chevy 1999 tahoe 5.7 vortec ... Car hesitates engine light reads random misfire at auto zone. Took to dealer said 10 degrees out of time on his diagnostic machine. Replaced just about every thing on engine dealer said he couldn't fix because he couldn't adjust distributor, I told him on my car that you couldn't adjust timing from distributor, who is right?
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My truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
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My wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
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Actually developed a crack and subsequent leak in a pipe running lengthwise, so assume the factory weld over the years went bad. Since it would be a weld overhead, wonder what method would be best? Would oxy acetylene work or mig? I don't have a tig so that not an option for me.
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