Chevrolet :: Engine Is Running Kind Of Rough And Has Tapping Or Knocking Sound
Jun 23, 2014
It is a 2002 or 2003 Chevy truck with a diesel engine. He was going down the road the other day under normal driving conditions when the motor made a racket and then white smoke started coming out of the back like a chimney. The truck will still crank and run (and smoke), and now there is a knocking or tapping noise that is coming from the engine. The engine is running kind of rough, and has the tapping or knocking sound, but it will calm down for 1/2 a second at which time the rough idle and noise stop, but quickly return. There is no engine code showing, so my code reader is useless. I once had a Chevy 350 with a spun main bearing that sounds similar, but the motor didn't idle rough or smoke. I don't know enough about diesel engines. I was told there was a possibility of a bad injector pump or bad injector itself. Is there any way of testing this yourself, or does it require a shop trip?
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I own a 2001 Accent 1.6, auto. 150,000 well-taken-care-of miles. New plugs/wires/timing belt/coolant flush 10,000 miles ago. Most recent oil change was with Shell Rotella T5 (I believe 10w-30 blend) and Purolator PureOne filter, 4-5,000 miles ago. It does not burn any oil, and runs very well. It has never been low on oil, revved high, or abused in the 10,000 miles I've owned it (except an ebrake u-turn on a dirt road to scare the wife )
The engine has always had a mild tick when cold, that goes away within about 30 seconds. Normal, from what I could tell. Also, it has always had a tick from roughly 1500-idle when releasing the gas, in neutral. Again, seems fairly normal for a little engine, I figured just some valve noise.
This morning I started the car (sat overnight) and it idled a bit rough for about 20 seconds, and I noticed that the ticking from before was now closer to a knocking/tapping, nowhere NEAR the horribleness of a spun rod on my WRX . But it was still a bit alarming. It never really quieted down, but as I rev, the sound goes away completely above 2k, and the flutter when I release the throttle is louder than before.
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2005 F-150 4.6L 2WD, 268,000 miles....
Recently I got a flashing 'Check Engine' light and a rough running engine (along with a tapping noise) when I was passing someone (and pulling a trailer). I retrieved codes 300, 304, & 305. I can't swear to it, but I think the tapping noise started at the same time as the coil problem.
I replaced coils #4 & #5 (later that same day) and the engine smoothed back out but the tapping noise is still hanging around. The noise speeds up at higher RPM's and doesn't go away if I shift into neutral. Oil level and pressure are fine and I only use Motorcraft 5W-20 and Motorcraft filters (and change the oil every 5K miles).
Not sure if this is relevant: I think I have bad valve guide seals (blue smoke after long idles) but no other problems that I am aware of. It sort of sounds like a lifter, but is there a good way to pin it down? Is it possible that this tapping is related to the bad coils?
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I have this light tapping sound that I don't believe is native to the otherwise healthy Prius II I'm currently driving. Mine is a 2007 Prius II with about 106,000 miles. The sound occurs persistently when the vehicle is ON but the engine is not running and the ventilation system is off. If I press down on the brake pedal I hear a light tapping similar to tappets in older cars.
But since the engine is not running at this point I don't think the problem is there. If I let up almost all the way on the brake the noise goes away. I bought this car with 103,000 so I know there may be things that I need to tend to. I'm not experiencing any braking problems. I'd rather have some idea of what's making this sound before I check with a mechanic and incur a few hundred dollars of expense.
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I started my car this morning and drove to work. It's not that cold. I heard knocking sounds coming from the engine at a stop light. I lightly tapped on the accelerator to hear it better. My commute is short (3 miles), so I gingerly cruised there. I didn't try to accelerate and it didn't seem like I was suffering from loss of power either. I opened the hood and let it idol at work and couldn't really hear the knocking sound.
I downloaded the code when I got to work. After that I started the engine again and it sounded pretty normal. I'm due for my oil/filter change (~5500 miles).
Here are the codes. Any reasons to worry, or is this an one-time thing?
2 Faults Found:
001322 - Camshaft Adj. Bank 1 Intake
P052A - 001 - Cold-Start Timing not Reached
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
[Code] ....
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Looking for a diagram on 1997 S10, 2.2 timing settings? If timing is off, will the engine sound as if the bearings are knocking somewhat? I installed a new crankshaft and new bearings. Also do the ignition coils usually go bad? Should the #1 cylinder be on the compression stroke?
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The car is a 1997 pontiac sunfire 4 cyl 2.4L.When the car is turned on it makes a sound like the one in the mp3 file that I've attached. Some other symptoms I've noticed is a very slight loss of power while accelerating, and whenever I pull up to a stop and the engine gets into the idle rpm range (800-1000) the oil light comes on and the rpm dips to about 400 and sometimes the engine dies. The engine is also running very very hot, although I haven't driven the car in about 2 months and it's 100 degrees outside, not sure if that's related.
What I have tried so far is replacing the oil and filter, and adding 2/5 a pint of seafoam engine additive for 4 quarts of oil as per the instructions on the bottle. I did this because I suspected it was a stuck lifter, but after driving it for 30 miles with no improvement I'm starting to think otherwise.
As some of you may know I'm not entirely mechanically inclined and that's why I'm here, sometimes I get posts from people who insist I shouldn't be anywhere near an engine but let's try to keep those negative posts off my thread.
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I am getting a loud knocking noise from the engine on my Santa Fe. The car is very low mileage of around 51K and has regular service and oil change.
Not sure what has caused this but there is a loud tapping/knocking noise coming from the engine. Have got it locally checked with the garage and Hyundai Workshop also but both have suggested that Oil levels are appropriate and they need to open engine to investigate more.
At a higher RPM the sound becomes more loud and recognizable.
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I bought a used 2008 Rx350 with 75,000 miles 2wd ... The car runs great, gets the advertised fuel mileage etc.. The engine seems (is)noisy to me at idle. Can't hear it while driving. sounds like poorly adjusted valves.
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I have a 2006 f150 it was making a knocking noise after the engine oil temp reached 160* and made the noise to 1700rpms. I thought it was the cam phasers so I replaced them. The truck is still making the noise and running rough and stalling but not as bad and not as often. Before it did it all of the time. The truck is timed properly. I had a new cam sensor and tried it but that did not work. I watched vct on the scan tool and both cams are in sycn.
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My 2003 chevy malibu suddenly started making a terrible knocking sound, like the sound a can of spray paint makes when you shake it- only much louder. A couple of weeks the oil light went on very briefly when i used the brakes. The oil change place was closed so I added a couple of quarts after checking the level (i waited after the engine was shut off for an hour, there was a little oil on the dipstick but definitely needed more). After adding the oil and letting it settle it was at the appropriate notch per the owners guide. A couple of days ago, I bought gas at a station I dont normally use. The car was driven approximately 40 miles after fill up and before the noise started.
I took the car to get the oil change and was advised to get it checked if the sound didn't go away in a day. The auto place says their diagnostic tool won't work if my check engine light isn't on. Its not, and has never lit up. What to do next...I assume I shouldn't drive it anywhere. I remember reading bad gas can cause this sound, or a bad Co sensor (?) I am praying the oil light doesn't come on when it's already too late!
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My 98 lumina seems to make a knocking/bouncing sound in the right rear wheel well when I brake. It never happens when I'm braking driving in the city (25 mph or so) but it happens when I'm closer to 40mph and up.
I thought it might've been a drum brake issue but I just had the brakes serviced about two or three weeks ago. It still does it. This isn't a new issue. It's something that's been going on for years.
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I have a 1998 chevy blazer about 134000 miles v6 4.3 4wd.. This last two weeks my blazer been running rough. I like to know what is normal idle for that blazer. When at idle its 500- 550 rpm when in drive its 500rpm.
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I have a 2008 with a tapping sound from engine - Sounds kinda like a diesel engine when cold. Not real loud.
It stops once the engine is warmed up. Is that most likely a tappet?
88,000 miles... I bought it two months ago with an extended warranty.
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I bought a 2009 F-150 King Ranch a few months back. It has 125k miles on it and the only aftermarket thing on it is some larger tires. I love the truck but twice now (at two totally different driving instances) I have started hearing this bad sounding tap in the engine. The majority of the time it has ONLY been when I am in drive or reverse. I can especially hear it if I am going through a drive through. Anyways as I was backing into a parking space today it started making an even louder tapping sound. I recorded it and have provided the link to youtube..
It continued to make this terrible sound until I revved it slightly and then it went back to normal idle. This all started as I was in reverse backing up but this is the first time it has continued even into neutral. Really hoping for not terrible news on this. Ive read about the cam phaser issue and nothing has been done to those yet. It is the 5.4L and a 4x4. How to fix this and not have a clunker for a truck...
Here is the link to the youtube video of the truck running... it was too large to be uploaded on here : [URL] .....
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My main top water hose burst. I replaced it. Car ran hot. Replaced the thermostat, coolant sensor, and 12 volt relay fuses for primary and secondary fans. Still ran hot. Fans not coming on. I tested fans in service mode by paper clip to F and G in the diagnostic scan box. Fans came on, so no blowed motors. Got desperate, so ran a toggle switch to primary fan, so fan would run while I drive. Still, when the car gets hot, after about 5 miles of regular driving, the car huckabucks, and cuts off at slow downs and stops. Really bad in the middle of light intersections.
1992 Chevrolet Lumina 3.1 6 cyl ....
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I have a 2010 Equinox with about 52000 miles on it. At about 48,000 I took it in for the 50G maintenance. The car ran with a fluttery sound that I did not really notice until it was brought to my attention. Recently the car began running rough and stalling when idling. there were no warning or indicator lights lit. I had OnStar run a remote diagnostic and they said there were no codes. The day after the diagnostic the check engine light went on , while at the same tie the rough idle and stalling went away.
I brought the car in for service at the dealer. They said that the car had several codes indicating low oil and the car was down 2 quarts but there was no leak. They also said the noise I heard was the timing belt. The noise is gone after the service and the car is running smoothly. Coincidentally, or not, I got a notice from GM saying they were changing the oil monitoring software on the 2010 Equinox to recommend me frequent oil changes.
1) What could cause the car to loose 2 quarts of oil over less than 6000 mile? Is this normal or an Equinox problem.
2) Would low oil cause the timing belt to make a noise.
3) Do I have a lemon and am I being ripped off y the dealer?
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We have a 2005 Avalon that was leaking oil from the oil pan about 8 months ago. Took it into a local shop and they pulled the engine and repaired the leak; everything seemed normal. Fast forward to a couple of months ago and the engine started developing a tapping sound from the valve cover. Over the span of 2 months, the tapping had become significantly more pronounced. It went from barely audible to HOLY $#!% we can hear it from inside the cabin at freeway speeds.
We finally took it to the dealer and the problem was so much worse than we were expecting. They only pulled the front valve cover, but two of the hydraulic lifters had a ton of play in it and there were very large flakes of metal in the oil. They also found whopping amounts of RTV along the seam where the timing chain cover attaches. And it was a ton! You could see goops of orange stuff all over the inside of the timing chain cover seam. While Toyota wasn't able to find the exact cause, the working (and very likely) theory is that the excess RTV broke off and blocked some of the oil ports (and possibly did damage to the pump), thereby starving the engine of oil and causing excessive metal on metal wear.
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My 1996 S10 2.2 liter pickup has been having some 'issues'. Truck has been kind to me over the years, but now is running a bit rough. It has an irreguler idle and continues to run this way through all speeds. The blinking code reads "cylinder 1 misfire". I did all the basics. I changed the plugs and wires, ignition coils and fuel filter. Here is where is gets tricky, after changing the fuel filter, it ran great again. Then it started to run rough again later that day. I thought I somehow clogged up the new filter, so I removed the new one for inspection. Realizing there was nothing wrong with it, I reinstalled. Truck ran great again. Went out to drive it to work a couple hours later and it started fine, then after about 10 seconds of running, it went back to the rough idle.
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I bought a use 2009 Matrix S 2.4L (2AZ-FE) with about 81000 miles on it. when the car is at idle i hear a light tapping sound on the passenger side. It sounds like the engine but am not sure what it might be. What is causing the tapping sound and how to fix it? (i saw some ppl post about the OCV.) The car also has a light vibration when am at a stop n in gear. Its annoying because i bought a car not a tractor.
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My wife was driving the 1999 K3500 7.4 model ls crewcab truck home the other day and out of the blue it started running rough popping and back firing and lost power. It had a major tune up about 40,000 miles ago. It sometimes has a hard time cranking to start, but once it starts it idles really rough and pops and smells like it is running rich. I thought the distributor cap but it looks fine, could it be a sensor?
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