I have a 2014 cruze, and when I press down the brake there is a loudish noise that sounds like air blowing out that I hear coming from the outside of my car. When this happens, my brake pedal also pushes closer to the floor. I noticed this maybe 1 month after I purchased, so I'm not sure if this is standard or something I should be concerned about.
View 4 RepliesI have a new 2012 Chevy Cruze with 10,000 miles on it. Chevy has issued service bulletins citing a problem that they can't seem to diagnose or repair (yet) and my car has the problem. They tell me their engineers are working on it. After the car is a little warm, when I apply the break there is a loud squeaking or whirring noise which pulsates at the speed of the tires (in other words, as I slow down, the intervals between each sound gets longer and longer). I suspect it is coming from the back. First they thought it was sticking calipers until they realized that I have drum brakes on the rear. It is loud enough that the only way no to hear this grating noise is to blast the radio.
View 2 RepliesBrand new. On start up when first accelerating I hear a weird bottoming out kind of scrapping noise and a tiny hitch in accelerating. Only happens once once after start up. Maybe 50% of the time this will happen on start up. What this may be?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2012 Cruze with a manual transmission. I have 43000 miles. When I down shift into 2nd gear I get a whining noise from under the car. I can shift it with no issues and no noise but when down shifting or turning in 2nd gear it whines.
View 19 RepliesThe engine light came on so I took it to a mechanic to get it checked. I was told that the PCV valve was bad. They told me that the valve needs changed and the valve cover gasket needs changed. Does this sound correct for a PCV valve?
View 13 RepliesI am a member of the 'engine off at red light' club, as I have found it to conseve significant gasoline in my town. My question has to do with actions prior to restarting the engine.
Years ago, when cars had distributors containing breaker points, it as generally recomended NOT to turn the key ON for an extended period prior to starting the engine. The given rational was that such action could cause the points to burn and pit.
Today, most cars have individual igniters for each plug, and the points in a distributor are history. Is there any danger to turning the ignition ON for a period prior to starting (or restarting) the engine? This action minimizes the 'time to start and get moving' away from a traffic light recently turned green.
We just bought our 2012 Chevy Cruze in April (it was a rental return) and in the last couple of weeks the (computerized) radio has started to go berzerk. It doesn't do it all the time -- which is why the dealership hasn't caught it yet -- but when it does, it keeps rebooting itself in the manner of this other 2012. Will the car suddenly die on us without warning? We're going to make the dealership take it back if they can't find the cause and fix it.
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Will a 2011 Chevy Cruze 1.4L turbo engine wear out / break down / fail sooner than a 2011 Chevy Cruze 1.8L engine ( w/o the turbo ) ? Both being automatic transmissions. Driven by the same person. What is the gas mileage difference between the same two ?
View 17 RepliesI am having trouble with my Chevrolet Aveo 2009 A/C. After driving for a while on the highway, the A/C stops blowing much air at low fan and when I increase the fan speed, it blows more air while making a whistling noise but not as much air as it usually does on that same fan speed. The noise starts going away after a while and it blows as much air as it should.I noticed that it happens more when I keep accelerating every now and then on the highway.
It does not happen as much when I am driving on a constant speed. I took it to the dealership and they said the filter was dirty and they found a leak on the vaporizer cap, fixed those but nothing changed! What might be the cause? I was researching the issue and came across this ""TPS (throttle position sensor) gives the WOT (wide open throttle) signal to the PCM to momentarily cut off power to the A/C clutch which disengages the A/C"...Could that be the issue?
Auto facts: 2000 Blazer, Mileage: 196,000 Engine: V6, 4.3L Transmission: Automatic Drivetrain: 4WD, Single climate control
Recently had my AC compressor assembly replaced, renewed accumulator/receiver drier, orifice tube, recharge, etc. The AC was cooling well below par after the repairs. Then is started alternately blowing hot (12 sec), cool (3 sec), etc. with a "spooky" creaking noise coming from within the middle dash during each transition (blend door?).
The mechanic charged the system again and agrees there is a refrigerant leak "somewhere" to account for the marginal cooling capability but the dye put into the system before the repair is not showing up anywhere that he can see (so far, having it checked again today). So, are these 2 separate issues? What are the steps of diagnosis and repair possibilities?
My car is making some noise. The first problem is describing the noise. I think of it as similar to the sound one can make with a moist finger rubbing along the top of a wine glass. A passenger last night thought it sounded like those gadgets you whirl above your head to make noise. I think the noise is coming from the rear brakes. The noise goes away if I apply the brakes. It also goes away if I apply the emergency brake.
It doesn't always make the noise, but it is happening often enough, and is loud enough, that I had to switch from the news to loud music on today's drive to work. I have enough pad left on the brakes, but I don't know about the e-brake. I was under the impression that there are tiny drum brakes that are used as a mechanical emergency brake on these cars? I've never peeked inside. I do have 118k miles on the car.
Maintenance history available at [URL] .... where you can see that the rear rotors were cut at 78k. However, I can feel a ridge on the rotor which I think is where the rotor is swept by the pad. I wonder if this ridge is somehow a problem, maybe rubbing against something else (which will doubtlessly turn out to be now damaged and expensive).
Today I was at a light, stopped with brakes on. Heard weird loud flapping noise like when you put a playing card against spokes of a bicycle. Smoke appeared. No warning lights so I thought it was the car ahead of me - especially since the noise stopped when I pressed the gas. Drove 11 miles home, 9 of them uphill. No problems. Parked for about an hour. Then drove about 4 miles and was again stopped, again the noise (not so loud this time) and some smoke from under the hood. I was right next to a gas station, pulled in and very nice attendant checked fluids, etc. No problems found. He spilled a bit of antifreeze when checking the radiator level. I then drove straight to a Honda dealer. They have proclaimed it a broken radiator on the basis of a brief exam and a sighting of a bit of antifreeze. No leaks anyplace, car was no overheating, the vehicle has less than 50 thousand miles and is regularly maintained.
View 9 RepliesI heard some noise which seems coming from the brakes. But the noise is always there even when I do not apply the brakes. I think if the noise relates to the brakes or the pads, there should be no noise until I apply the brakes, am I right? My car: Chevy Malibu, 1999. The brake light is not on.
View 1 RepliesMy 2011 malibu has approx. 20,000 miles, it makes a loud humming noise that is very annoying, can't even hear someone talking and must turn up the radio. It gets much worse when you get up to 55mph and above. I thought it might be the tires but they look good, but could it still be the tires?
View 5 RepliesWhat could be causing a loud roaring noise when accelerating. I'm thinking it may be in the transmission but not for sure.1st I thought it was a CV joint going bad. Also acts like it's in 2nd gear. 2006 Malibu Maxx SS , 97,000 miles....
View 6 RepliesI have a 1995 850. About a year ago, I suddenly had a loud grinding noise coming from my brakes. It only happened in hot weather and when the brakes seemed to be hot. Also, it only happened when I was coming to a final stop, like the last 10-20 feet. I took my car to my "trusted" mechanic. They diagnosed it as being my front pads and rotors, so they replaced them (they also felt the front vibrating.) NOW the brakes seemed okay after I got it back the second time (no loud grinding noise.)
When I got the car back, the weather was starting to cool since it was nearing winter. My winter weather is like 70's during the day, and during this time, there was no grinding. It's now starting to get hot again, and sure enough, that grinding noise is back, but not as bad as the first time a year ago. Again, it is only when the brakes heat up and I come to a final stop (the last 10-20 feet.) If I break lightly, it won't make that noise, and it takes me driving for about 15 minutes for the grinding noise to start (it sounds like metal on metal and loud.) Also, I don't feel the vibration like I did a year ago. I only drive the streets, and have not been on the freeway since I got the new brakes.
I have a 98 chevy tahoe and the truck seems to make a strange noise sometimes when applying the brakes. I can feel (sorta) the noise in the brake pedal. Is this something that needs a scan to find out where it's coming from?
View 11 RepliesMy 91 chevy 2500 has a fairly loud tapping sound under the passenger side dash, I used a mechanic's steth-a-scope & think i narrowed it down to left of the blower motor on the inside of the firewall. The clicking/tapping occurs every time the ignition key is turned on for about 10 clicks turn the key off & it repeats the 10 clicks again. Its consistent & very annoying.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 Toyota Camry SE with just under 51,000 miles on it. Every time I put the car into reverse and accelerate to apprx. 2-4 MPH then apply the brakes, I hear a loud popping noise, and it sounds like it is coming from the passenger front wheel. Slight noise from the drivers front as well. This doesn't happen in Drive, only in reverse at a low rate of speed. My father and I have taken the front wheels off and tested it, seems to be a motor mount, curious if this seems rational or common in a newer car.
View 11 Replies2007 GS 350. In the past 6 months i have changed my FRONT brake pads with two different pair. First was a generic pad(REMOVED), and did some research then went for Akebono(CURRENTLY) brake pads 2-months noise-free and now back to braking noise dilemma.
Issues:
-In the morning, first 3-5 pressed brakes makes loud(REALLY LOUD!) humming noise then goes away. Feels like the brakes are rusty but it continually does it everyday. I just got the car serviced so assuming all my fluids are filled.
-Randomly, on a fully stopped brake i hear a whistle noise from the front brake. NOT as loud described above.
-I noticed the noise happened the most on HOT weather, and occasionally on COLD weather.
Longo Lexus advice me to buy an OEM brake pads and should resolve this problem. I'm also thinking of just getting it done at the dealership and pay that extra cash plus warranty.
When I put my 2008 Highlander in reverse and put on the brakes, it makes a very loud and obvious clicking noise. What this might be? I'm very concerned.
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