I have a 2012 Cruze with a manual transmission. I have 43000 miles. When I down shift into 2nd gear I get a whining noise from under the car. I can shift it with no issues and no noise but when down shifting or turning in 2nd gear it whines.
View 19 RepliesMy 2003 Corvette has 17,000 gentle miles on it. At around 15,000 miles I found that I couldn't get the car into 5th gear. It has a grinding metallic sound. All the other gears and the clutch work fine - and I've been forced to shift from 4th to 6th.
View 5 RepliesWe just bought our 2012 Chevy Cruze in April (it was a rental return) and in the last couple of weeks the (computerized) radio has started to go berzerk. It doesn't do it all the time -- which is why the dealership hasn't caught it yet -- but when it does, it keeps rebooting itself in the manner of this other 2012. Will the car suddenly die on us without warning? We're going to make the dealership take it back if they can't find the cause and fix it.
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I have a 2014 cruze, and when I press down the brake there is a loudish noise that sounds like air blowing out that I hear coming from the outside of my car. When this happens, my brake pedal also pushes closer to the floor. I noticed this maybe 1 month after I purchased, so I'm not sure if this is standard or something I should be concerned about.
View 4 RepliesI have a 98 saab 900 se turbo.90000 miles on it. Just had a new clutch kit/throwout bearing and master cylinder clutch installed, as the clutch was going bad.
When I shift the car (while driving) from 2nd into 3rd/4th/5th gear,and accelerate I suddenly notice what sounds like a "grinding"/raspy noise that stays with the car while in those gears. It does not occur in 1st or 2nd , although it seems that in first gear the rpms go up real fast now (could the gears be slipping again?? this is a brand new clutch..).
The second I shift to 3rd gear and give it gas, the noise shows up instantly. Now when I let my foot off the gas, the noise goes away 100%. The second I give it gas again, it comes back. Also I don't believe the noise increases or decreases in relation to the speed of the vehicle. It seems to stay constant no matter what speed I'm at, as long as I'm actively giving it gas.
It occurs every time I drive..not sure what to do and what causes this..maybe I just need to check the transmission fluid?
I have a new 2012 Chevy Cruze with 10,000 miles on it. Chevy has issued service bulletins citing a problem that they can't seem to diagnose or repair (yet) and my car has the problem. They tell me their engineers are working on it. After the car is a little warm, when I apply the break there is a loud squeaking or whirring noise which pulsates at the speed of the tires (in other words, as I slow down, the intervals between each sound gets longer and longer). I suspect it is coming from the back. First they thought it was sticking calipers until they realized that I have drum brakes on the rear. It is loud enough that the only way no to hear this grating noise is to blast the radio.
View 2 RepliesBrand new. On start up when first accelerating I hear a weird bottoming out kind of scrapping noise and a tiny hitch in accelerating. Only happens once once after start up. Maybe 50% of the time this will happen on start up. What this may be?
View 10 RepliesNew to the board- sold my b6 passat for '12 GTI manual.
Its been a few years since i've owned a stick so I'm not sure if this noise is normal or just because the car as 100 miles on it OR just because I'm a freak when it comes to hearing every little noise.
But when i'm say in 5th or 6th gear on the highway and give it some gas I hears some noise like a fluttering vibration noise for a second or two and then it goes away? It sounds like its coming from right underneath me. Its not a huge deal but on my first brand new car, I'd rather just have someone tell me its normal or if it needs to be fixed or a bolt tightened or something.
I have the 12 Accent GL Auto, I have about 161,000 km, and recently say 3 months I've been hearing/feeling this click click noise come from under the car whenever I am in "manual" mode in 1st gear coming from a stop, now I`m 99% sure its not the brakes releasing because I just replaced both my caliper's in the rear and pads and rotors all the way around, And I know this sound because I've had the problem (twice) were my brakes stick so I'm very familiar with that sound this is something different, I want to say transmission because it only does this in 1st gear manual mode, but i know where the transmission is on this car, and this sound isn't coming from where the transmission is, more like under the firewall ( where the trans would be on a RWD car).
View 3 RepliesI have a 1997 Honda Civic 5-speed with about 200,000 miles. It is making a low-pitched whining noise when I let the clutch out in neutral. I took it to a mechanic who immediately diagnosed it as the throw out bearing. Being mechanically inclined, I dropped the tranny and changed the clutch and bearing, but started it back up, and the noise is still there - as if I did nothing at all. It is not constant volume - sometimes it is louder than others. It is usually loudest first start of the day. I live in Houston, so its not like it is "cold", just not hot. To be fair to the mechanic, the bearing was quite corroded, but everything else seemed to be working properly.
View 13 RepliesI have an 04 Jetta 1.8T that I recently acquired and have a problem with a noisy manual tranny. Reverse is a bit noisy (more than usual) and when I get on it in 1st and 2nd gear it sounds like an awful whining noise. I have been told it could be either a bad throw out bearing or input bearing? BTW this thing shift perfect, like butter, no grinding at all.
View 4 RepliesThe engine light came on so I took it to a mechanic to get it checked. I was told that the PCV valve was bad. They told me that the valve needs changed and the valve cover gasket needs changed. Does this sound correct for a PCV valve?
View 13 RepliesI have a problem with a bmw 1996 7 series transmission.When I start driving the car all gears shift fine, but when I come to a stop it won't downshift to first gear,i have to put the car in park and then in drive again and it run ok until I come to a stop again.
View 4 RepliesI am a member of the 'engine off at red light' club, as I have found it to conseve significant gasoline in my town. My question has to do with actions prior to restarting the engine.
Years ago, when cars had distributors containing breaker points, it as generally recomended NOT to turn the key ON for an extended period prior to starting the engine. The given rational was that such action could cause the points to burn and pit.
Today, most cars have individual igniters for each plug, and the points in a distributor are history. Is there any danger to turning the ignition ON for a period prior to starting (or restarting) the engine? This action minimizes the 'time to start and get moving' away from a traffic light recently turned green.
I have a 2001 Accent with a 1.6. This car is mostly driven by my daughter so I'm translating the symptoms as she has described them to me. The issue appears to be this - when driving at highway speeds the car will sometimes downshift from OD to 3rd gear and stay there. When the problem first started, she would pull off the highway, turn off the car and then restart it - this would appear to "fix" things temporarily, however, as time went on, it would work up to (and including) 3rd gear and not go into OD after a restart.
I've reviewed the various threads on this site describing the 4th gear problem prevalent in the Accent, but in each case that was posted, there was a check-engine-light or at least some diagnostic codes stored that one could refer to - I've scanned this car every time she's been home and there are no DTC's. Should I assume that this is the standard "4th gear" issue and take the pan off for investigation or could this be some other issue such as the speed sensor causing the transmission to limit itself to a max of 3rd gear?
I searched a lot but did not find these symptoms on my 1992 Aerostar 3.0 2WD with A4LD transmission.
In overdrive, accelerate to down shift, and the transmission goes out of gear. Engine revs as if it was taken out of gear. Manually shift to Drive, and it works fine.
Overdrive works fine if at speed, and works to shift up, but if going slow enough to drop to lower gear, transmission goes out of gear. Manually in drive, works fine.
I may have other symptoms, but this was on the way home from work, and I just parked it. I checked fluid level, and it was fine, still in the cross-hatch area of the stick, light colored oil, no smell.
I will replace the modulator and replace the filter, and see what that will do. If the overdrive works at overdrive speed, I do not see how that could be an overdrive housing failure that I have seen in many posts. I am aware of keeping track of the pin for the modulator.
I also have read that band adjustment is not a good idea. If they are worn that bad, they should be replaced. I don't think it is a band or clutch problem. I think it is a shift control problem. We will start with the modulator and filter and take it from there.
Why my vue manual tranny only goes in first third and fifth . Can't get it in second fourth or reverse . Bought it like that .
View 1 Replies1997 Saturn SL ... It's like 3rd gear is where 1st used to be and 4th is where 2 used to be. 5th and reverse work but are more towards the center. It's as if the stick shifted over to the left.
Is it possible for the shift stick and it's linkage to become displaced? The temp did drop today about 40 degrees and it snowed but the car stays in the garage and was only parked at my work for a couple hours after a 2 mile uneventful drive.
No warning lights that I can see but the check engine lite has never worked. The engine is a 96 rebuild but the transmission should be a 97 like the rest of the car.
Great mileage and otherwise drives fine.
My mom just picked up a 2003 CLK 430. I drove it around for a bit and noticed that a few things didn't seem quite right
The transmission seems to start out in 2nd gear rather than first even when the transmission is not in "winter" mode. The transmission is also very hesitant to downshift, and often times will not downshift at all if the car is moving.
There's a noticeable amount of lag time between when you stand on the gas and when car actually starts accelerating.The engine doesn't seem to rev very quickly or freely, and there is some noticeable pinging when the engine is under load. Performance was very tepid for a 275 HP car.
The spark plugs and ignition wires were replaced last week. The car has 105k miles on it. I know the previous owner used regular unleaded, and the owners specifically states that 91 octane should be used and goes as far as to mention precautions that should be taken should regular unleaded. The car was filled up with 93 octane fuel earlier today.
Just 15 minutes ago, I took my stepdad out in the car to demonstrate my findings. On the first drive (about 5-10 minutes) the car acted like it did when I had driven it earlier in the day (not downshifting, hesitating, lack of power, etc.), and the check engine light came on. He wanted to drive the car to see for himself. So we pulled over, shut off the engine and switched seats. He got behind the wheel, started the car, the check engine light is still on. But the car ran perfectly. It was starting out from 1st gear and would downshift promptly when give full throttle. Performance was immensely improved. The check engine light is still on though. The car has a 1 year bumper to bumper warranty. So I guess they can bring it in to have it looked at.
I'm just sort of at a loss as to why the car performed so poorly when I drove it, and all of a sudden performed correctly, after the engine was restarted.
My 93' Ranger XLT extra cab 2wd, 4.0 engine and A4LD auto tranny with 126,600 miles has a rough downshift into 2nd gear about 15 or 16 mph. Down shift to 1st is real smooth and upshifting thru the gears is smooth. I just put a new modulator valve on it and upshifts smooth out, they were getting to be hard shifts before changing that valve. I do not know if there is any adjustment that can be made to smooth out the rough downshift when slowing down to a stop for red light. The U-joins are in good shape and new carrier bearing assembly on driveshaft and no extra play in the rear end. A band adjustment maybe or just have to live with it.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Max with automatic transmission, 129,000 miles. It's got a higher pitched whine that increases as I accelerate between first and second gear and between 2nd and 3rd. I can't hear once it's in 3rd gear. It sounds like an RC car or early video game race car sound. I can hear it winding down as I slow down through those gears. It's also audible when the car is in neutral or park, but not then the brakes are fully applied. I can't really hear it in reverse.
I bought it used with 65,000 miles on it. I'm not sure what was done before that as far as maintenance/preventative maint. I did get a transmission flush three years ago (don't know the mileage at that time). I don't think this will impact things in any way, but I just changed the spark plugs and wires a few weeks ago.
It has a rough/shuddery idle (but doesn't feel like it's goign to stall out) and seems to be riding rougher than usual lately. I feel it more in the seat/overall car vibrations than through the steering wheel.
Transmission Oil Pump? Planetary Gear Set? I was really hoping to not have an expensive repair, but I am fearing the worst.