Chevrolet - Corvette :: Completely Shut Off While Driving / Will Not Turn Over
Jan 15, 2014
so I was driving down the street the other day then my car completely shut off no interior lights car won't turn over radio wont turn on had to push it up the hill, to get it out of the street and get it towed.
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Been fighting a starting problem for months with a 1976 Corvette. Car starts fine on first try, but if I shut off the engine, it won't crank again for hours, usually overnight. All I get is a buzzer noise when I turn the key - no starting motor noises. This happens no matter how long the engine has run, be it 30 seconds or an hour, so I don't thing the starting motor is getting hot. Car has a new battery and alternator - that didn't solve anything. What to check or replace next? Starting motor? Solinoid? Ignition switch? By the way, the car has a manual transmission.
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I have an 03 v10 with a Powerdyne supercharger. The Ex came with an extra computer with a Superchip. The Superchip has a proper tune for the supercharger but when I install it with the extra "bad" computer the truck will completely shut down after driving ~100 miles. This is very dangerous because I lose power steering and brakes during the shutdown. The Ex starts back up after a few minutes and then shuts down more frequently until I reset the computer. I speculate that something is going wrong after the "bad" computer has learned the driving habits.
The other "good" computer works great and does not ever shut off the motor, but at full throttle the Ex will bog and I am losing HP produced by the SC. I don't think it has the optimal tune because my wideband AFR reads lean right before it bogs and I think it is bogging to protect the motor from a lean condition. I would like to install the chip into the "good" computer that never shuts the truck down to get the benefit of the proper tune, but I don't want to risk damaging it or experiencing the dreaded shutdown. A few questions :
- Why the truck shuts down while under power?
- Any reason to think that the chip will cause the "good" computer to shut down while driving?
- Could the chip be causing the shutdown, not the actual "bad" computer itself?
- Would the best option be to send the chip to 5star tunes and have them program a tuner with the superchip tune...and a few others?
- Any way to flash the "good" computer with the superchip tune?
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My 08 prius completely shut off while driving on the california freeways today. No warnings no lights on the dash nothing. Just powered off. Will not start the ready light of any dash lights for that matter work.. tried to jump it.. nothing working. What the he'll can cause thus.. I'm about 500 miles from home with a car just parked. Could a 12v battery cause this no start issue?
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I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I took it to the dealership on June 30, for a routine oil change and other maintenance that was due. They did a cooling system flush, and oil change, a power steering flush, and a brake system flush, along with a multipoint inspection, and replaced the belt and tensioner. On July 18 on my way to work in traffic, the vehicle completely shut down with no warning signals. Shortly after the check engine light, the oil light came on. Until then, I had not noticed any warning lights.
At this time I reached down to get a bottle of tea from the passenger front floor board and noticed a slightly oily pink brown liquid on the plastic floor mat. When it was towed to the dealership, they tore the engine apart and reported that the engine overheated, the valve seats came off, the valves hit the pistons splashing metal onto the cylinder walls and requiring an engine rebuild. Is the dealership responsible for not having discovered whatever problem caused the engine to break down? Or causing it somehow during the maintenance on June 30? They feel it is not related.
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While driving along my Expedition will completely shut down, ignition, all accessories, everything, for a few seconds then come back alive. It happens generally up hills or around right turns.
It is like the main ground strap is loose and losing contact momentarily. I don't know where to look for this. Engine was replaced 1500 miles ago. Battery and all visible connections seem ok.
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Yesterday when i was driving on highway on my dash board the lights came on: the check engine light, master light, brakes lights. After driving couple of miles my car completely shut down. I took the exit and after that the car didn't start at all. Even i couldn't start the ignition to connect my OBD scaner to read the codes. Now I even can't do something to read the codes or to turn the engine on somehow, what to do.
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I have 1986 Gold Corvette, which now has Antique Virginia Plates. I had a terrible Vibration at 65 - 75 MPH that would shake the car so bad I could not drive it more than 20 minutes and I could not tell if it was in the front or the back.
I had the following installed: Front and Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly (Timken), Front and Rear Brake Rotors, Front and Rear Rebuilt Calipers, Front and Rear Hawk/ Wellman HPS Brake Pads and four Stainless Steel Brake Hoses.
Now the vibration is about half-gone, but still shakes the GoldVette at 65 - 75 MPH, and I still cannot tell if it is in the front or the back.
A few years ago, I replaced the Rack-in-pinion and Tie Rod Ends. What do I replace next to eliminate the vibration so that I can drive it about 100 miles?
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I have a 2000 chevy s10, it has a brand new battery and alternator. When the battery is charged the battery meter will keep dropping until the dash is completely off when I am driving, then i wont be able to start it unless i get a jump or charge the battery. why is the battery draining so quickly?
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I am having a couple issues with my 94 Corvette with Auto Transmission with 107k miles.. First, when I am coming to a stop, from like 2 mph to full stop, I am getting like a clunking that sounds and feels like it is coming from behind me and to the right (from rear middle of the car). It does Not do this if I shift into neutral b4 I get to low speeds.
The second problem is, I got caught in a very heavy rain last weekend, and the digital speedometer area started blinking off and on about once or twice per second, and the "idiot light" panel lit up like a Christmas tree. The car started sputtering but never stalled out...it was almost if it was turning itself off and on repeatedly. I pulled over under a canopy, and waited out the brief but intense downpour, and its been fine ever since (about 100 miles), but it has only been driven in nice weather since. I checked the battery connections (and that's about it) and they were tight and clean.
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1981 Corvette rebuilt/restored. 35+ mph. steering wheel shakes/vibrates. Higher speed, depress clutch, smooth ride. Taken to mechanic recently, test driven to acknowledge, lift done twice, no clue.
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My 2003 Corvette has 17,000 gentle miles on it. At around 15,000 miles I found that I couldn't get the car into 5th gear. It has a grinding metallic sound. All the other gears and the clutch work fine - and I've been forced to shift from 4th to 6th.
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I own a sweet 2008 Corvette with 31,000 miles. I have only use Mobil 1 synthetic oil. Every spring, after the winter hibernation, I change the oil despite having only 5,000 to 6,000 miles between oil changes. My question is, should I continue to change the oil once a year or can I wait to change it at the 10,000 mile interval.
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My car runs great except occasionally after I drive awhile, park and than restart to continue, it starts right up but stalls out 20-30 seconds later. I turns over but will not run. I have to let it sit for 30-45 minutes and than it starts up like a champ. I suspect fuel pump but would like an expert opinion. Garage says they can find nothing wrong and to bring it in when it happens... how do I do that.
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1994 corvette auto trans, when car is parked or in drive with foot on the brake will start to idle up, the back down and like lunge forward if in drive and foot on the brake. Then if you drive it, and step on it, it will miss fire. My mechanis put it on his scanner but it showed no problems. The opti- spark, wires, plugs were replaced 2 years ago and 12,000 miles ago.
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I have a '95 'vette LT1 that I bought new for my 50th birthday. I only drive it about 4-500 (yes - hundred) miles a year and for the most part it sits in the garage, gets washed and waxed, and put away. 51000 original miles, the first 40000 put on in the first 1 1/2 years. I've had an ignition and fuel injection problem since I bought it. Get's fixed then some new ignition/injection problem comes back. Here's what it does now: car starts fine, runs about 30 seconds with no problem, then starts to miss, runs very rough and very rich (can smell it in the exhaust). After about 3 minutes, the engine smooths out and 2 seconds later, the "check engine" light comes on and the cooling fan starts to run. It runs fine for about 5 minutes, then "check engine" light goes out, fan stops, starts to run rough, misses, gas mileage (per the dash display) goes to about 5 mpg, runs rich, etc. Then the cycle starts again with the "check engine" light and fan coming on and the car running fine. I have no clue.
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I bought a brand new 2013 elantra last year and currently has 20,000 miles on it. I had custom halos installed as my lights that turn on automatically when the car is on and is on continuously. I also have hids installed into the headlights.
Last week my battery sign came on when I turned the car on and after driving about 20 minutes the car completely stopped and did not turn on. Took it to the dealership and they first denied me warranty saying because of all the aftermarket stuff we cant touch this car for free. So I paid for the diagnostic which was $102 and after they told me that your alternator fried but they are not sure why. Would it be because of the halos and hids??
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I placed my Corvette with a consignment seller this summer. When he had no action, I took the car back but...battery dead. Fully recharged it, car started immediately (first time in 2-months) but then died and will not restart. My ace mechanic has replaced fuel pump, distributer, but no fire. Indication is weak/no signal at he injectors. Could this be residual Theft Prevention system? I had that fail years ago and I pulled the module and the car has done fine for 4-years, until now.
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I have a '99 Explorer XLT and when I turn the high beams on, the fog/driving lights shut off. Is this normal? Is there a way I can keep the fogs on while the highs are on?
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My car has worked fine since I got it 1 year ago, I just put a new battery a few months ago but when I tried to start it this morning it started for a second then completely shut off. I cant even take the key out of the ignition (infiniti q45 has a button on the ignition that needs to be pushed while taking the key out and that button is stuck now.) When I open the door, the lights on the side of the door and the open door sound work but they are both very distorted and faint.
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I have 2004 Toyota Camry V4 Automatic , I recently installed a Two way Compustar Remote Starter a month ago. While i was driving my vehicle on the highway (110 kmph) my car engine shut off completely with no lights. I parked my car on the shoulder and again start my car normally with the key and was able to start it normally. There was no engine check lights or any kind of warning.
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