Chevrolet - Colorado :: 2007 - Intermittent Start Up
Jan 26, 2016
My 2007 Chevy Colorado has an intermittent problem with starting up. It will try to start and labor and without touching the key, it tries to start itself again. If I wait 15 minutes, it starts just fine. Someone said it was maybe the passlock ignition switch or passlock senior, and to fix it the passlock sensor would need to be bypassed.
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Check engine light has been on and when I checked the code it came up as the cam shift sensor. How do I know if it is the upper or lower and where are they located? I'm fairly mechanical so can I do this myself?
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I have a 2007 Chev Colorado PU (automatic) and whenever I use the brake to come to a stop my rpms surge from 500 to 1000 - both visually on the tach and you can feel it also. When the truck is stoped it returns to noral (750). accelerates fine - shifts fine - fuel economy is a bit down.
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2006 chevy Colorado, 4 cyl engine, 50000 miles, at times when engine is warm it won't restart, when cold no problem, starter turns engine over OK, just won't start, wait 15--30 minutes starts OK... when engine is running it runs good..drives good, Chevy Dealer found no problems, I can find no fault codes when hooked up...
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Fuel Pump and Fuel Pump Relay replaced after 115,000 miles. On occasion, engine will turn over but not crank ... wait 10 minutes and the engine will start. No security light (passlock) or engine trouble codes displayed or recorded. Once the engine starts, it runs smoothly and normally. Problem of starting did not occur until the fuel pump and relay were replaced.
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My husband was having to have his truck jumped morning and evening mechanic said it wasn,t a bad battery but changing fuses or swiches wasn,t working. We bought a new battery a day latter wipers don,t work. mechanic buys a used motor, motor works in test colorado but doesn,t work in my husbands truck mechanic is a little stumped.
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My ABS light is on most of the time. When I first start the engine it will be on, but when I put the truck in gear, either forward or reverse, it will shut of after moving only 5 or 10 feet. It will stay off for 2 or 3 blocks before it will come back on and stay on until you shut it off and start the process over again. I have replaced the left front ABS sensor and the right front hub an bearing assembly, which has a new ABS sensor in it already. A scanner still says the both front ABS sensors are at fault. I have unhooked the sensors and the ABS motor and unhooked the battery and nothing has changed. All connections look very clean and the pins look straight.
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Starter clicks wont crank...
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I have an 05 chevy colorado and I cant seem to get the tailgate to open. When you pull the handle to open it, you feel a slight click like you would if it would open but it wont budge. Ive tried pushing into it and pulling, I've had someone sit in the bed and push while i pulled and nothing is working.
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1996 chevy s10 pickup with 96500 miles. Have been dealing with this problem for more than a year. Replaced master cylinder once, brake booster twice and the abs pump (cost more than the transmission). My new mechanic has bled the lines twice, replaced the master cylinder and brake booster and apbs pump and is now at a loss. The brake pedal will go down half way and stick with a loud vacuum leak 'whistle'. I can pry the pedal back up with my foot and then it will operate find for a few days...then whistle again. I love this truck, the engine is strong (new tranny 9 mos ago) and the body in great shape. I don't and can't afford to get rid of it yet.
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It leaks even when the car has been sitting when it rains and I can't see where it is coming in.
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2004 Colorado w 5 cyl. About 4-6 times per year (randomly) the truck will either not start, or the electric locks won't work or the turn signal flashes radically or the electric windows won't operate. Currently the locks refuse to work on any door, but the windows work every where except the drivers door. Mechanics opinions seem to revolve around the body control module, but the error codes, don't seem to support this.
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I used a OBD scan tool and all it told me was my idle air control system rpm is lower than expected and my evaporative system has a high purge flow. What this means, can I fix it or do I have to send it to a shop. Also when idling the short term fuel trim 1 is at -3% whatever that means.
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I purchased a 2005 chevy colorado today, and when I got home I found out that the power windows on the passenger side don't work, I can hear a clicking sound coming from the front and rear doors when I press the buttons, but the windows don't move.
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I have an '05 Chevy Colorado and the front turn signals don't work and no flashers. I've tried replacing bulbs and checked the fuses. Looking for info what would work.
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I have a 2006 Chevy Colorado, 5 cylinder, automatic, 4wheel drive with 62,700mi. 1st problem occurred in 2013 new thermostat was replaced then in 2015 temp. gauge shows overheating problem again. All diagnostic problems have been analyzed by mechanic and nothing further could be done. Mechanic suggests to take truck to dealer. The temp. reading still shows above normal operation and the engine compartment has signs of overheating also. If the truck driven on uphill range the temp. goes higher I refuse to drive in this condition which will surely ruin the entire engine.
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I have a 2006 chevy impala LT 3.9 v6. Intermittently it wont start, crank it and it does nothing. All accessories work fine. Had a new starter installed, switched the relay it works on, had the ignition switch changed (twice), had the passlock system replaced, new keys for the ignition. Had the car to the dealer four, times. It doesn't happen all the time so it cant be reproduced at will. I just keep trying to start it and it will eventually start, it can be turning the key from 4 to 40 times. there's no rhyme or reason, some times it doesn't happen for 5 days, then it happens everyday for a week.. according to the dealer when they reproduced it it was the ignition switch. I doubt i got 2 bad ignition switches so i don't believe the error is being reported correctly. According to chevy they have no other reports of this..
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My 2009 Silverado 1500 with only 12,000 miles has begun intermittent display of all warning lights that are normally seen at start up. They stay on for 2-3 seconds and all gauges drop to -0-. When the warning lights go off, the gauges return to normal. It is not as prevalent after engine reaches normal operating temperature.
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I've got a 2007 3.8 tg with about 46000mi on it and it will intermittently not start and only lights on the dash are the abs and esc lights on start up. Also will reset the clock and trip. the dealer has put in a new battery and immobilizer antenna, but the problem is still there, it was about 1k miles apart the last time it died after the battery replacement.
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I have 2007 Santa Fe LTD which will intermittently not start. All electrical devices work fine but when you turn the key the starter will not engage. Keep trying the key and after 5-10-100 try's the car will start. The next time it may start on the first attempt or it might not. Sometimes it will go weeks without a problem then it will not start again. I have checked the starter relay, battery, and cables. It seems like the alarm is faulty and not letting the power get to the starter.
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For the past year I have had intermittent start issues with my LS that occur about 15 percent of the time. Ambient or engine temperature do not make a difference. Sometimes the starter engages but then disengages right away. I then need to depress the start button an additional time or two before it actually starts. At other times the starter engages and continues cranking while the engine sounds like it is trying to start (like it is just barely keeping ahead of the starter speed). That carries on for several seconds and then it starts. Nothing shows on diagnostics and the dealer says I am going to have to wait until there is a complete "no start" before they can trouble shoot. There was a similar issue with earlier 460 models but the Lexus service tech said that problem does not apply to the 2011's. It seems there is a lack of fuel delivery but from what point? And why only intermittent and momentary?
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