Chevrolet - Cobalt :: 2010 - Shaking At Red Lights
Feb 29, 2016
My wife recently got stuck in a snowstorm. Some people got her out and she drove a couple miles to work. After leaving work, her car started shaking at red lights (like big, slow shakes, back and forth, not making forward progress), but stopped as soon as she started to move or put the car in neutral. It did this on her way home from work and then continued when she left for a workout class about half an hour later. However, after this, it stopped completely.
Some people seemed to suggest engine mount problems to other people, which seems serious if it is that. However, since it did stop after a short time, is it possible there was snow stuck somewhere causing a problem and it finally just melted off? Or is the getting stuck in snow the same day probably just a coincidence? It seems odd that it would stop once the brake is let up.
Right now I'm planning to take it in sometime later this week most likely, but am wondering if I can avoid that since it hasn't exhibited any of the same symptoms for a few days. The car is a 2010 Chevy Cobalt.
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I have a 2009 cobolt when I put on the brakes slowly there's a rattle noise and some shaking. The ball joints are new and so are the bearings. Could it be bad brakes or a strut?
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When Idling or at low speeds my engine has been surging. When idling it surges with no changes in rpm's but the car shakes and can bee seen and felt. When at low speeds I also get a surge but the rpms will jump up and down. If I drive with the A/C on it cuts the surging down significantly. I had a friend of mine read out the check engine light codes. The are P0010- CAM POS Actuator malfunction, P0011 Cam pos actuator over retarded, C0300 random misfire, C0700 transmission control malfunction. I looked some things up online and they were saying to replace some cam shaft sensors and etc.
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13.5k, 2.2 Ecotec, Automatic
The MAF had to be replaced, while the car was at the dealer the power steering motor was replaced (recall). When I got the car back the steering motor (reman) was making a lot of noise and I took it back. This time the motor and the steering column were replaced. After a week I got the car back last night.
This morning I noticed the steering wheel is off center (~1/2 to 3/4") to the right. The car tracks straight with no pull to either side.
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I've got a noise I'm trying to diagnose on our 2010 Cobalt. Thought I'd ask about it here before heading to a mechanic.
When I hit about 35 mph I start to hear a hum sound that we've never heard before (my wife says she can here it at slower speeds, but I can't). The sound gets higher in pitch as the car speed increases. The RPMs don't affect it (i.e. when the car shifts gears, no change in the sound).
If I shift into neutral and take my foot off the gas, the sound doesn't change (except dropping in pitch as I slow down).Seems to be tied entirely to the speed of the car, not related to RPMs, throttle, etc.
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I have a 2010 Chev Cobalt LT, bought brand new off the lot- at about 15,000 km's, I started to experience some electrical issues.. Basically, what it is the parking brake light comes on in the instrument panel along with the all the other warning lights, both speedo and rpm gauges stop working, -- basically EVERYTHING electrical, but the lights, and turn signals, hazards work-- took it in to the GM Dealer- they cleaned the BCM Connectors, it was fine for about 4 months- now it's doing it again... Same thing as before warning lights come on, and everything stops except last night the Keyless Entry would not work at all... This has me stumped and it's annoying having to take it all the time..
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Every 6 weeks my car, a 2007 Chevrolet Cobalt, won't start. Key goes in half way and won't go any further. Key won't come out and it's totally dead. Jump start it and it's good for another 6 weeks or so. What could be causing this?
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I currently own a 2006 Chevy Cobalt. For the past few months it had a problem that every time I get gas when I go to start the car up I have to pump the gas pedal and crank it at the same time to get it to start running. Once its running I have to either get driving pronto or sit and it park and accelerate it a little for a bit to keep the car running. If I let go of the gas pedal the car will clunk and shut off. If I drive off after a few blocks it’ll work fine and I won’t have the problem again until I put more gas in it. Occasionally when at a light or stop sign while in drive the car will clunk a little but normally stop after few seconds.
I went to AutoZone and they told me I had a pressure thing (can’t remember fully) but to replace the gas cap. Which the car tells every so often to check my gas cap. Well 4-5 gas caps later problem still there. What it could be or how to fix it, last resort is to take it to the mechanic and pay a nice bill for a fix.
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I am having an issue with my 2006 Chevy Cobalt. I recently had a new fuel pump put in. Within a week the car would not start. The very next day the car started fine and ran well. The next day it would not start again. The next day, started and ran fine. Then this morning it would not start again. I don't think it can be a faulty fuel pump. What might be the problem?
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Make: Chevy Model: Cobalt LS Year: 2005 Mileage: 120000
So I'm having this problem with my engine stalling at low RPM. The RPM goes to 0 and the engine shuts off.
This only happens when traveling at low speeds (e.g. slowly accelerating from a stop, braking, moving in stop and go traffic)
This NEVER happens when I'm traveling above 10 mph (e.g. if I'm coasting at 40 and let my foot off the gas, the RPM can go to 500 RPM but it will never stall in this case).
After the stall, I can always put the car in park, turn the ignition and it will turn back on again.
I have not noticed any electrical problems that occur when this happens (the radio stays on during the stall and the lights don't dim).
My car was part of that Chevy ignition switch recall, but I took it to the dealership which (hopefully) repaired it.
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Recently my car started to go at a lower speed like around 5-10 mph. Then it started not showing the speed I was going. Then the RPM goes higher and higher and does not come down. I took it to the shop thinking the recall for the ignition switch was going to fix the problem but even after I got the egnition switch fix I was still experiences those issue.s I took it back to the shop to get a diagnostic that cost 100 bucks they told me to get my transmission fixed. After I had gone and done that my car still was experiencing those problems. Also some times the car turns back to normal like it wasn't even having issue everything goes soothly for about a good 2 to 3 miles and it goes back to it's old issues. What I can do or if they are experiencing these issue too? I wondering if I should take it back to the dealers and have them look at it again or not?
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My Chevy Cobalt will not start when it is cold (when water freezes)...but only sometimes. When you go to start the engine, it will initially turn over but does not ignite. Then, the second time if you turn the key normally no sound will emit. However, if you put the key in and only turn to get the lights on the dash to come on and THEN turn the key, it will turn over, but no dice. This past time a code "engine pwr reduced" came up, but that doesn't always happen. When you wait four hours or more, it will start like normal accompanied by the check engine light. The check engine light goes off the second time you start it after the non-start.
I have taken it to a mechanic and they have not been able to reproduce the problem, even when it was cold enough to theoretically have happened. He said it might be an issue with the body module which explains why the ignition switch code comes up when you run it through a computer, but since this is such an expensive fix he said he can't recommend I get it done until we know for sure. So there is a pattern, this happens about every 2 months and then the issue clears up for a while.
What is going on??? Will there ever be a way to tell what is wrong (and fix it) without a mechanic reproducing the issue?
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Ran my battery down on my car when I left my lights on and proceeded to work an 8-hour shift.
Came out and stuck my key in the ignition. Nothing happened, which is when I realized my plight. The dang ignition wouldn't release my key! This meant I couldn't get into the trunk by key. I pressed the (stupidly electric) remote trunk lock. That's where the jumper cables are! Did I mention it was below freezing and I wasn't dressed for sustained outdoor shenanigans?
Fortunately, I was able to flag down co-workers with jumper cables, after a time. We opened the hood--praises, they actually left a cable-actuated device on the car!--and got going. None the less, it was a close scare.
1) Why does the ignition "grab" the key without battery power?
2) How does one defeat 1)?
3) Is it necessary to store my jumper cables INSIDE the car?
4) What mental giant decided a trunk latch that's INOP with a dead battery was a good idea?
I have a decent working understanding of a lock cylinder--6 or so spring-loaded wafers that retract into the cylinder body, allowing it to turn--but I don't see how that requires current flow to work. If it's a "safety" feature, how do I disable it, permanently?
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2008 Chevy Cobalt
The fan for my A/c and heat does not turn on anymore. The A/c and heating systems themselves do work because if I put my hand right up against the vent I can feel it. When I switch on the fan, there is no noise, no humming either. This happened over the course of two days where first the fan worked fine, then it took a little while to turn on, then it would only turn on if I put it on high and waited a long time, then it didn't turn on at all.
Since then I have not tried to turn the fan on for more than a few minutes to see if I can get it to work again because I'm concerned that the trapped heat or A/c might damage something inside (am I correct?).
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So I went to get in my car this morning and the key fob wouldn't unlock my car. None of the buttons work, I tried them all. Now someone would say ok... why don't you just open it with the key? Well I'll tell you why! My car was part of the ignition switch recall and when they swapped everything out at the dealership, the guys didn't cut me a key to go with my door. So the key that starts my car is not the same one that unlocks my car. I walked up to Autozone thinking a quick battery change would do the trick. The guy tested my fob with the indicator thing they have and said "this is fine." I explained my problem and he said he could sell me a battery, but he wouldn't want to if that's not the problem. Could it be something with the communication? In which case, what does the fob communicate with in my car? I can't even get into my car!
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A week ago today my Low Beams stopped working, I turned on my car and they flashed on like normal, then a split second later went out; Just as the sun was setting too.
After finding a place to leave my car and hitching a ride home, I went back the next day to check it out.
Checked and double checked all the fuses, all were ok (I checked every single fuse, not just the lo beams)Checked all the wire connections to ensure they are tight.Replaced the light bulbs, still nothing.Ordered a new Headlight Switch, and just installed it today, Low Beams still don't work.
My High Beams, Blinkers, Hazards, Break Lights, and Daylights all work, just not my Low Beams, any clues as to what might the problem be?
2009 Chevy Cobalt, Just under 100k Miles
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Keys get stuck in ignition lose all power have replaced ignition and shifter?
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I have a 2006 Chevy cobalt and am currently stranded with my husband. Last night as we were about to head home from visiting family 3hrs away, we got off at an exit and as we were stopping about to go again because the light turned green, the car stalled. We had to start it a bunch of times just to get it to the nearest gas station about an eighth of a mile down the road. The message on the dashboard said "engine power reduced". We looked up that message online and a few posts said to disconnect the battery. We did that a few times but when we went to go, it kept doing what it did before, stalling. We were almost to the road and decided we weren't going to make it so we put it in reverse and it drove just fine back to a parking spot. Why it would stall idling and in drive but not in reverse? We are baffled and currently waiting on a tow.
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My daughters car won't start. My husband took out the starter and had it tested and it is fine. Then he took the battery out of my car and put it in the Cobalt, still doesn't start. The starter is turning but the engine doesn't engage. The fly wheel looks good. My daughter is using my car to get to work and to soccer practice for a team she is coaching, I miss my car!
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I drive a 2009 Chevy Cobalt. A really great car except for that when I drive through a puddle of water (no matter how deep) and have to stop immediately after, it hesitates and makes a squealing noise as soon as I hit the gas. My interior lights will also dim and the force my air/heat is blowing will lower. After about 5-10 seconds, however, the car will act normal. My check engine light does not come on nor any other lights indicating an issue. Thought it could possibly be a belt but not sure.
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I have a 2005 Chevy Cobalt, 2.2L engine and am having a few problems. I believe I am losing coolant somewhere, but cannot ever see any leaks or anything on the ground where I park. I am having to top off the reservoir a couple times a month with water/coolant to keep the temperature from going up above normal (which I've found is around 190 degrees). I first noticed this when the temperature had reached 230 degrees! I also hear a sound like sloshing water in the front end when I first start and drive the vehicle. The sloshing usually subsides after I've been driving for several minutes. To top it all off I now have a bit of foam on the oil cap and the oil looks a tad bit cloudy.
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