Chevrolet - Cobalt :: 2010 - Humming Sound At Higher Speeds
Jul 6, 2016
I've got a noise I'm trying to diagnose on our 2010 Cobalt. Thought I'd ask about it here before heading to a mechanic.
When I hit about 35 mph I start to hear a hum sound that we've never heard before (my wife says she can here it at slower speeds, but I can't). The sound gets higher in pitch as the car speed increases. The RPMs don't affect it (i.e. when the car shifts gears, no change in the sound).
If I shift into neutral and take my foot off the gas, the sound doesn't change (except dropping in pitch as I slow down).Seems to be tied entirely to the speed of the car, not related to RPMs, throttle, etc.
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When Idling or at low speeds my engine has been surging. When idling it surges with no changes in rpm's but the car shakes and can bee seen and felt. When at low speeds I also get a surge but the rpms will jump up and down. If I drive with the A/C on it cuts the surging down significantly. I had a friend of mine read out the check engine light codes. The are P0010- CAM POS Actuator malfunction, P0011 Cam pos actuator over retarded, C0300 random misfire, C0700 transmission control malfunction. I looked some things up online and they were saying to replace some cam shaft sensors and etc.
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My wife recently got stuck in a snowstorm. Some people got her out and she drove a couple miles to work. After leaving work, her car started shaking at red lights (like big, slow shakes, back and forth, not making forward progress), but stopped as soon as she started to move or put the car in neutral. It did this on her way home from work and then continued when she left for a workout class about half an hour later. However, after this, it stopped completely.
Some people seemed to suggest engine mount problems to other people, which seems serious if it is that. However, since it did stop after a short time, is it possible there was snow stuck somewhere causing a problem and it finally just melted off? Or is the getting stuck in snow the same day probably just a coincidence? It seems odd that it would stop once the brake is let up.
Right now I'm planning to take it in sometime later this week most likely, but am wondering if I can avoid that since it hasn't exhibited any of the same symptoms for a few days. The car is a 2010 Chevy Cobalt.
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13.5k, 2.2 Ecotec, Automatic
The MAF had to be replaced, while the car was at the dealer the power steering motor was replaced (recall). When I got the car back the steering motor (reman) was making a lot of noise and I took it back. This time the motor and the steering column were replaced. After a week I got the car back last night.
This morning I noticed the steering wheel is off center (~1/2 to 3/4") to the right. The car tracks straight with no pull to either side.
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I "think" I may have a bad wheel bearing. Problem is, which one is it? The code reader I own does not read for ABS. The noise appears around 30 mph. It increased slightly, at higher speeds. I tried jacking each side of the truck up and checking for play and noise. There is no play. The only thing I can say is that the passenger side wheel seems heavy to spin. But spins.
The drivers side wheel spins slightly more free, but has a faint sound like the brake shoe is touching the rotor. I drove it and tried turning left and right. The noise does not seem to get worse or better when turning either direction. I called my local Auto Zone, and they only told me to do what I have already done. So I am at a loss. What else can I do? My Blazer is a 2000, 4X4, Automatic.
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I have a 2010 Chev Cobalt LT, bought brand new off the lot- at about 15,000 km's, I started to experience some electrical issues.. Basically, what it is the parking brake light comes on in the instrument panel along with the all the other warning lights, both speedo and rpm gauges stop working, -- basically EVERYTHING electrical, but the lights, and turn signals, hazards work-- took it in to the GM Dealer- they cleaned the BCM Connectors, it was fine for about 4 months- now it's doing it again... Same thing as before warning lights come on, and everything stops except last night the Keyless Entry would not work at all... This has me stumped and it's annoying having to take it all the time..
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As the title states, I've having a problem with my civic. It makes this clicking/grinding noise during 4 separate occasions:
1) turning to the right
2) going in reverse
3) applying the brakes <30 MPH
4) engine braking- I hear a grinding at higher speeds when I let off the accelerator.
2004 Honda Civic EX, 5 sp MT, 1.7 L, ~172k miles. I'm not a mechanic, but do almost all my maintenance at our hobby shop on base.
I first noticed this noise only when applying brakes approaching a stop sign. I checked my pads and rotors and they looked good. The noise is coming from the front drivers side of the car. Pulled the pads off and they appeared to be wearing differently (only slightly). Regardless, I replaced the pads and rotors. The problem persisted. I checked the wheels for play to see if it was a wheel bearing, but there is no play.
Then, I noticed the sound when going in reverse and turning to the right. All information I found pointed to a faulty CV axle. From the outside, the boots were normal. No tears, no grease. It didn't make any specific noise when turned, but oh well. I replaced both of them today. Replaced the transmission fluid with genuine Honda. Pulled out of the parking lot of the hobby shop and the noise persisted.
Ball joints appear to be fine, wheel bearings appear to be fine. The guys at the shop suggested maybe it was the caliper not engaging correctly; perhaps air in the lines. Tomorrow I'm going to bleed the brake lines and see if that works. Otherwise, when else would cause this noise? Video attached....
There are 3 parts to the video. 1 is the last few seconds of me slowing down from an on ramp. I click the turn signal apply the brakes and you hear the noise. The next section is again slowing down at a stop sign. The last section is backing up out of a parking spot.
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Today was the first day I drove my Elantra on the interstate with the sunroof open. When I was cruising at 65-70mph, I kept hearing a noise that I thought was coming from another car. It sort of sounded like a popping or thumping noise. After a few minutes, I reached my hand up and noticed the sound was coming from the metal bar that rises up a little at the front of the opening when the glass slides back. The wind was vibrating it and making it flap in the wind.
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I have noticed recently that I seem to be getting less regen braking force than I used to. Particularly noticeable at higher speeds at over 45MPH or 70 KMPH. The regen seems to have very little effect now until I have slowed down. I seem to have to use much more brake than I remember recently. And by the way the battery in not nearly fully charged....Regen does come on but seems to have very little slowing power....
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I have a 2002 V6 Dodge Dakota that just recently lost pretty much all power. It will not go above 20 mph and has a hard time going up any hills. I was driving on the interstate and initially was having a hard time reaching 65 mph. The truck would roar and then shift and then lose power and shift down a gear. Eventually it lost almost all power and is now barely drive-able. It makes a sound like an ATV at low speeds, kind of a deep humming sound. When I punch the gas in neutral in makes the same sound. I have had problems with it stalling before and am at a complete loss as to the cause.
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2013 prius V. Noticed a humming/moaning noise today at very low speeds. Don't think it was the electric motor, as it didn't indicate that it was charging.
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2010, purchased new, 89k. Never a hint of a problem. Last few days, I've notice a low level humming sound at idle. Probably there at speed and swamped by road noise. No change in performance. Temps in the 85 t0 90 range, with AC always at Auto, and at 72.
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Finally got the Tech to acknowledge the Humming/Groaning from the Engine as I sat behind the wheel at my 5000 mile service visit. His response was that the sound we were hearing ( at start-up) was "NORMAL"
The RX drives and sounds fine after that mileage, but many times my destination is less, and I feel like I am driving a reject.This has persisted since new, @ frigid and high temps; as we approach 7500 miles.
Engine sound varies in pitch when acceleration increases the RPM's ?
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Every 6 weeks my car, a 2007 Chevrolet Cobalt, won't start. Key goes in half way and won't go any further. Key won't come out and it's totally dead. Jump start it and it's good for another 6 weeks or so. What could be causing this?
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I currently own a 2006 Chevy Cobalt. For the past few months it had a problem that every time I get gas when I go to start the car up I have to pump the gas pedal and crank it at the same time to get it to start running. Once its running I have to either get driving pronto or sit and it park and accelerate it a little for a bit to keep the car running. If I let go of the gas pedal the car will clunk and shut off. If I drive off after a few blocks it’ll work fine and I won’t have the problem again until I put more gas in it. Occasionally when at a light or stop sign while in drive the car will clunk a little but normally stop after few seconds.
I went to AutoZone and they told me I had a pressure thing (can’t remember fully) but to replace the gas cap. Which the car tells every so often to check my gas cap. Well 4-5 gas caps later problem still there. What it could be or how to fix it, last resort is to take it to the mechanic and pay a nice bill for a fix.
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I am having an issue with my 2006 Chevy Cobalt. I recently had a new fuel pump put in. Within a week the car would not start. The very next day the car started fine and ran well. The next day it would not start again. The next day, started and ran fine. Then this morning it would not start again. I don't think it can be a faulty fuel pump. What might be the problem?
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Make: Chevy Model: Cobalt LS Year: 2005 Mileage: 120000
So I'm having this problem with my engine stalling at low RPM. The RPM goes to 0 and the engine shuts off.
This only happens when traveling at low speeds (e.g. slowly accelerating from a stop, braking, moving in stop and go traffic)
This NEVER happens when I'm traveling above 10 mph (e.g. if I'm coasting at 40 and let my foot off the gas, the RPM can go to 500 RPM but it will never stall in this case).
After the stall, I can always put the car in park, turn the ignition and it will turn back on again.
I have not noticed any electrical problems that occur when this happens (the radio stays on during the stall and the lights don't dim).
My car was part of that Chevy ignition switch recall, but I took it to the dealership which (hopefully) repaired it.
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Recently my car started to go at a lower speed like around 5-10 mph. Then it started not showing the speed I was going. Then the RPM goes higher and higher and does not come down. I took it to the shop thinking the recall for the ignition switch was going to fix the problem but even after I got the egnition switch fix I was still experiences those issue.s I took it back to the shop to get a diagnostic that cost 100 bucks they told me to get my transmission fixed. After I had gone and done that my car still was experiencing those problems. Also some times the car turns back to normal like it wasn't even having issue everything goes soothly for about a good 2 to 3 miles and it goes back to it's old issues. What I can do or if they are experiencing these issue too? I wondering if I should take it back to the dealers and have them look at it again or not?
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My Chevy Cobalt will not start when it is cold (when water freezes)...but only sometimes. When you go to start the engine, it will initially turn over but does not ignite. Then, the second time if you turn the key normally no sound will emit. However, if you put the key in and only turn to get the lights on the dash to come on and THEN turn the key, it will turn over, but no dice. This past time a code "engine pwr reduced" came up, but that doesn't always happen. When you wait four hours or more, it will start like normal accompanied by the check engine light. The check engine light goes off the second time you start it after the non-start.
I have taken it to a mechanic and they have not been able to reproduce the problem, even when it was cold enough to theoretically have happened. He said it might be an issue with the body module which explains why the ignition switch code comes up when you run it through a computer, but since this is such an expensive fix he said he can't recommend I get it done until we know for sure. So there is a pattern, this happens about every 2 months and then the issue clears up for a while.
What is going on??? Will there ever be a way to tell what is wrong (and fix it) without a mechanic reproducing the issue?
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Ran my battery down on my car when I left my lights on and proceeded to work an 8-hour shift.
Came out and stuck my key in the ignition. Nothing happened, which is when I realized my plight. The dang ignition wouldn't release my key! This meant I couldn't get into the trunk by key. I pressed the (stupidly electric) remote trunk lock. That's where the jumper cables are! Did I mention it was below freezing and I wasn't dressed for sustained outdoor shenanigans?
Fortunately, I was able to flag down co-workers with jumper cables, after a time. We opened the hood--praises, they actually left a cable-actuated device on the car!--and got going. None the less, it was a close scare.
1) Why does the ignition "grab" the key without battery power?
2) How does one defeat 1)?
3) Is it necessary to store my jumper cables INSIDE the car?
4) What mental giant decided a trunk latch that's INOP with a dead battery was a good idea?
I have a decent working understanding of a lock cylinder--6 or so spring-loaded wafers that retract into the cylinder body, allowing it to turn--but I don't see how that requires current flow to work. If it's a "safety" feature, how do I disable it, permanently?
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2008 Chevy Cobalt
The fan for my A/c and heat does not turn on anymore. The A/c and heating systems themselves do work because if I put my hand right up against the vent I can feel it. When I switch on the fan, there is no noise, no humming either. This happened over the course of two days where first the fan worked fine, then it took a little while to turn on, then it would only turn on if I put it on high and waited a long time, then it didn't turn on at all.
Since then I have not tried to turn the fan on for more than a few minutes to see if I can get it to work again because I'm concerned that the trapped heat or A/c might damage something inside (am I correct?).
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