Chevrolet - Cobalt :: 2006 Won't Start After It Sits In Rain Overnight
Jul 26, 2011
I own a 2006 Chev Cobalt with 133000 kms (yes I'm Canadian). About 6 months ago after the car sat over night in the rain, it would not start that morning. It would turn over and cough and sputter for afew seconds but not stay running. I had it towed to my garage. The car sat there for a while and when the mechanic got in, it started no problem. The mechanic tried hosing down the entire area under the hood to get the car to act up, but that didn't do anything. I took the car home and we all chalked it up as a fluk. Then a week later , after an over night in the rain, it did it again. Towed to the garage and it fixed itself by the time the mechanic got to it. This happened 3 more time.
CAA sprayed all the ignition parts with something like WD40, they even got a hold of another coil pak that I could borrow to see it that would solve the problem.... it didn't. They put it on a code reader and it read " Camshaft positioning (CMP) sensor circuit". But they ( my mechanic) told me that they just didn't know what to do next. They recommend another mechanic, but I haven't gone yet because I'm afraid that they will look at my car as a "cash cow". For now, to avoid this problem, when I know it's going to rain, I plug in the block heater, and put a desk lamp with a 40 watt bulb under the hood, then bungy down a tarp over the hood after I close it. I would like to point out that if I go to work and the car gets rained on all day (9-5) it will still start. It seems like the car has to soak in the moisture first.
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I just bought 2011 Camry 2.5 6auto with 57k miles on it. The car make a rattle noise for a second or so on a cold start when sets overnight. I took it to the dealer yesterday and they replaced the timing gear assembly under warranty. This morning when I started the car in the morning it made the same rattle noise. I am going to take it back to the dealer next week.
My question is has any one had this rattle noise? if so, did the noise go away after the dealer replaced the cam gear? Also, Do you think this rattle will affect the engine in the long term?
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Ok, so my 2007 F150 Lariat super crew cab has been at the dealership for a week now with them claiming that a part is on back order. How hard is it for them to get in a right front axle?? Granted, it was in there for other stuff too (which they can not give me a straight answer on if they fixed or not cause they are claiming the technician hasn't done the write up on it yet). My main concern is that they are screwing me around or that something happened to my truck. I am planning on stopping by there on Wed. morning after I get out of work.
Are these trucks known for bad front axles or was there some kind of a big recall on them?
Other things it went in for was the radio having the CD's cycle through when you first start up the truck, but does not happen like that all the time. Black plastic driver side front door hinge is cracked exposing the metal reinforcing part. Whirring/bearing type noise when you first start up the truck when it is cold and sits overnight (which they claim they can't hear yet waited to bring the truck inside and check it out at 3PM when they had the truck overnight from the night before when I dropped it off.) and the front driveshaft not fully disengaging when the truck is in 2wd. Almost seems like the vacuum locking hubs are still engaged.
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I currently own a 2006 Chevy Cobalt. For the past few months it had a problem that every time I get gas when I go to start the car up I have to pump the gas pedal and crank it at the same time to get it to start running. Once its running I have to either get driving pronto or sit and it park and accelerate it a little for a bit to keep the car running. If I let go of the gas pedal the car will clunk and shut off. If I drive off after a few blocks it’ll work fine and I won’t have the problem again until I put more gas in it. Occasionally when at a light or stop sign while in drive the car will clunk a little but normally stop after few seconds.
I went to AutoZone and they told me I had a pressure thing (can’t remember fully) but to replace the gas cap. Which the car tells every so often to check my gas cap. Well 4-5 gas caps later problem still there. What it could be or how to fix it, last resort is to take it to the mechanic and pay a nice bill for a fix.
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I am having an issue with my 2006 Chevy Cobalt. I recently had a new fuel pump put in. Within a week the car would not start. The very next day the car started fine and ran well. The next day it would not start again. The next day, started and ran fine. Then this morning it would not start again. I don't think it can be a faulty fuel pump. What might be the problem?
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My wife's SF with 30K miles has developed a coolant leak after it sits over night. It rest on the concrete behind the oil pan. Its only 4 to 5 drops but any coolant leak is not good. I looked around and it looks like there may be moisture down below where top oil filter is(top back of engine). Crap, I hope its not a HD gasket. Are there any coolant hoses that run on top of the engine behind the oil filter? Hopefully its just a hose. I am going to try and set up an appointment at the dealership for early next week.
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Every 6 weeks my car, a 2007 Chevrolet Cobalt, won't start. Key goes in half way and won't go any further. Key won't come out and it's totally dead. Jump start it and it's good for another 6 weeks or so. What could be causing this?
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My Chevy Cobalt will not start when it is cold (when water freezes)...but only sometimes. When you go to start the engine, it will initially turn over but does not ignite. Then, the second time if you turn the key normally no sound will emit. However, if you put the key in and only turn to get the lights on the dash to come on and THEN turn the key, it will turn over, but no dice. This past time a code "engine pwr reduced" came up, but that doesn't always happen. When you wait four hours or more, it will start like normal accompanied by the check engine light. The check engine light goes off the second time you start it after the non-start.
I have taken it to a mechanic and they have not been able to reproduce the problem, even when it was cold enough to theoretically have happened. He said it might be an issue with the body module which explains why the ignition switch code comes up when you run it through a computer, but since this is such an expensive fix he said he can't recommend I get it done until we know for sure. So there is a pattern, this happens about every 2 months and then the issue clears up for a while.
What is going on??? Will there ever be a way to tell what is wrong (and fix it) without a mechanic reproducing the issue?
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I have a 2006 Chevy cobalt and am currently stranded with my husband. Last night as we were about to head home from visiting family 3hrs away, we got off at an exit and as we were stopping about to go again because the light turned green, the car stalled. We had to start it a bunch of times just to get it to the nearest gas station about an eighth of a mile down the road. The message on the dashboard said "engine power reduced". We looked up that message online and a few posts said to disconnect the battery. We did that a few times but when we went to go, it kept doing what it did before, stalling. We were almost to the road and decided we weren't going to make it so we put it in reverse and it drove just fine back to a parking spot. Why it would stall idling and in drive but not in reverse? We are baffled and currently waiting on a tow.
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My daughters car won't start. My husband took out the starter and had it tested and it is fine. Then he took the battery out of my car and put it in the Cobalt, still doesn't start. The starter is turning but the engine doesn't engage. The fly wheel looks good. My daughter is using my car to get to work and to soccer practice for a team she is coaching, I miss my car!
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My 2005 Chevy Cobalt is refusing to start on occasion. I turn the key, nothing. Its not the battery. I wait exactly 10 minutes and it starts no problem!The dealer wants me to take it in only when this is happening but in 10 minutes the tow truck driver won't even arrive. What is the problem? The computer?
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I have a 2006 Chevy Cobalt 5 speed manual with 49k miles. For the last year the car idles rough at stop lights when the A/C or heater is turned on. The rough idling is not continuous but intermittent with the rpm falling just below 500 and returning to just under 1000. This is accompanied by a shuddering, as if the car is about to stall out. I should also mention that the car has a tendency to stall when rolling to a stop in 1st or 2nd gear. The check engine light comes on sporadically during fast acceleration, usually on a steep incline, when driving on the highway on ramp. A recent diagnostic indicated the need to replace the fuel filter and clean the fuel system, including the throttle body. Had these things done, but I'm still having the same issues with the car. I mentioned this to my mechanic and he said it may be a loose hose.
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I drive a 2008 Cobalt SS turbo. its been a good car and I haven't had any major problems with it aside from the small stuff.
Well for the past few months I've noticed that, whenever i drive in heavy rain or in snow etc I will get a loud Growling/whining noise from the transmission area. Now it will do it while in Neutral, 1st etc and when stopped it will go away. If I stop the car for a few moments, the noise goes away until I hit another puddle and then it comes back again.
I also feel a "knocking" in the shifter and I've noticed its vibrated really badly for awhile now.
the caveat to this is it ONLY does it when its wet outside. I've taken it to GM a few times, and even showed the service manager the issues when it was raining out and he said everything was fine. The car never did it when I first purchased it.
I should include that there are some aftermarket modifications on the car. Catless downpipe, new intercooler, lowering springs. stock exhaust and stock turbo.
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'95 Civic, 225k, .5 fuel injected, A/T . . . we've had a lot of rain lately . . . last few mornings when I started the Civic after an overnight rain the engine started right up but putt-putted like a motorboat for a few seconds . . no more than 5-6 seconds, then cleared-up and ran smooth all day. Last night it didn't rain and it started without the motorboat effect. New plugs and wires (within 5k) . . . I'm thinking cap and rotor (has about 40k on cap and rotor). Ignition issue or fuel?
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Why will the 96 Blazer not start in the rain? Replaced almost all electric components from key cylinder to plugs. It is grounded somewhere when wet.
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It leaks even when the car has been sitting when it rains and I can't see where it is coming in.
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I have issues with engine starting when cold outside or after rain. This only happens when engine is cold and has not been started for a day or 2. Distributor cap does not have any condensation inside but does seem to corrode on contact points. Engine turns over fine, has fuel and spark. When this happens engine will not fire and after awhile it will start to fire and lock up when it fires then continue cranking. After repeated attempts it will start and run fine, can be shut off and start right back up with out any issues. It could take a few tries to a few hours of trying before running though. I'm leaning toward a distributor or timing issue. Am I on the right track? 98 Suburban K1500 5.7L ....
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Make: Chevy Model: Cobalt LS Year: 2005 Mileage: 120000
So I'm having this problem with my engine stalling at low RPM. The RPM goes to 0 and the engine shuts off.
This only happens when traveling at low speeds (e.g. slowly accelerating from a stop, braking, moving in stop and go traffic)
This NEVER happens when I'm traveling above 10 mph (e.g. if I'm coasting at 40 and let my foot off the gas, the RPM can go to 500 RPM but it will never stall in this case).
After the stall, I can always put the car in park, turn the ignition and it will turn back on again.
I have not noticed any electrical problems that occur when this happens (the radio stays on during the stall and the lights don't dim).
My car was part of that Chevy ignition switch recall, but I took it to the dealership which (hopefully) repaired it.
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Recently my car started to go at a lower speed like around 5-10 mph. Then it started not showing the speed I was going. Then the RPM goes higher and higher and does not come down. I took it to the shop thinking the recall for the ignition switch was going to fix the problem but even after I got the egnition switch fix I was still experiences those issue.s I took it back to the shop to get a diagnostic that cost 100 bucks they told me to get my transmission fixed. After I had gone and done that my car still was experiencing those problems. Also some times the car turns back to normal like it wasn't even having issue everything goes soothly for about a good 2 to 3 miles and it goes back to it's old issues. What I can do or if they are experiencing these issue too? I wondering if I should take it back to the dealers and have them look at it again or not?
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Ran my battery down on my car when I left my lights on and proceeded to work an 8-hour shift.
Came out and stuck my key in the ignition. Nothing happened, which is when I realized my plight. The dang ignition wouldn't release my key! This meant I couldn't get into the trunk by key. I pressed the (stupidly electric) remote trunk lock. That's where the jumper cables are! Did I mention it was below freezing and I wasn't dressed for sustained outdoor shenanigans?
Fortunately, I was able to flag down co-workers with jumper cables, after a time. We opened the hood--praises, they actually left a cable-actuated device on the car!--and got going. None the less, it was a close scare.
1) Why does the ignition "grab" the key without battery power?
2) How does one defeat 1)?
3) Is it necessary to store my jumper cables INSIDE the car?
4) What mental giant decided a trunk latch that's INOP with a dead battery was a good idea?
I have a decent working understanding of a lock cylinder--6 or so spring-loaded wafers that retract into the cylinder body, allowing it to turn--but I don't see how that requires current flow to work. If it's a "safety" feature, how do I disable it, permanently?
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2008 Chevy Cobalt
The fan for my A/c and heat does not turn on anymore. The A/c and heating systems themselves do work because if I put my hand right up against the vent I can feel it. When I switch on the fan, there is no noise, no humming either. This happened over the course of two days where first the fan worked fine, then it took a little while to turn on, then it would only turn on if I put it on high and waited a long time, then it didn't turn on at all.
Since then I have not tried to turn the fan on for more than a few minutes to see if I can get it to work again because I'm concerned that the trapped heat or A/c might damage something inside (am I correct?).
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