I've had my car die twice on me lately. There is absolutely no warning - no sputtering, rough-running- just dies completely. I am still able to crank the engine after this happens, but it won't start immediately. After five or ten minutes, it will start and then run fine. 1990 Celebrity. what this could be and how to fix it?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1990 Chevy Celebrity wagon with a vent problem. The air will only blow out the dashboard vents, so I'm getting no heat down below, or air to the defroster.
View 2 RepliesMy 1990 Toyota 4runner won't stay running after I changed the air filter. Starts up for couple sec then dies. It ran the same morning then had problem after changing filter.
View 2 RepliesMy truck is having a problem lately where it will suddenly die while driving. It feels like it loses either spark or fuel and happens about 20-30 minutes after I drive it. Once it dies you can turn the key off and restart it and it will fire up and run again, for how long I'm not sure because I'm almost home about that time. It has a fairly new fuel pump, 2 years old, a fuel filter the same age, new cap and rotor, new air filter, probably could use some new plugs. I replaced the TPS with an older one that I had laying around and had no change in performance. I get a 34 and 43 code (MAP and knock sensor) when I do a diagnostic on it.My question is do you think a MAP sensor or knock sensor would cause this kind of failure before I go out and buy them? I'm leaning towards the MAP sensor but not sure that it would have this kind of an effect on the engine.
View 4 RepliesHave 2005 Phaeton with about 140,000 miles. Has run fine as long as I've had it at about 100,000. Last week it died in a parking lot after starting. It keep doing that all the way home.
Next day it started and ran a bit longer and then the serpentine belt broke. Replaced the belt and car ran fine for 10 minutes, parted it and the next day it quit after running 2 minutes.
Seems like it dies right after the computer systems cycle up.
I replaced the left side battery and keep the correct charger on it to make sure its fully charged. I start the car and it dies after a few minutes, then I notice the charger is charging the battery.
I checked the J367 battery control unit and its a D rates 2800 so should be the right one. I don't know if they can go bad. But think it could be the problem, not sure if they can be tested. Called my vw dealer and they say they need to whole vehicle.
The meter on the dash show 14 plus so I think the alternator should be fine. I did check to make sure all pulleys were turning smoothly when I changed the belt. Today I checked the Smoothing Capacitor and it tested fine.
My 1999 Yukon will start up, run for about 5 minutes at idle then die. Then it will not start again till the next day.
I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel line at the fuel filter. It started up, and the pressure gauge went up to 54. I gave it some gas and pressure goes up to about 60 then back to 54 at idle. I sat and watched it for a bit then it died after about 5 minutes and the gauge went below 50 to about 48. I immediately tried to start again and the pressure actually drops a little while cranking to 45 and stayed there.
Whats weird is when I first started it up, I can hear the pump come on and it kicked the pressure up from 0 to 54. Then after dieing, I don't think I can hear the pump come on, and the pressure does not go up at all. I have a feeling tomorrow it will do the same thing, start up after sitting for awhile, then die after 5 minutes.
Does this sound like a fuel pump going bad? or does it sound like an electrical issue with the fuel pump?
I have a 1996 ford taurus lx 3.0 v6 engine dohc about 150000 miles..when i start the car about 5 mins the car dies..so i start it back up then it dies again.. So I start it back up then i keep my foot on gas the car stays running as soon i take my foot off gas it dies. I did have a new fuel pump in..
View 12 RepliesI own a 1996 Toyota Celica. When the car is cold it starts and run for about 5 minutes then dies. When I try to start the car, with the key in the 'on' position, I have no check engine light. If I crank the engine and release the key to the 'run' position, the 'check engine' light turns on. When the car is cold or I leave it to rest for a couple hours and I turn the key on the 'check engine' light turns on. it is after the car stalls out i have this problem. At this point if I spray some starter fluid into the intake the car attempts to start. I thought that it was the pump so I installed a new one. Fuel pressure is good. It seems to me that the injectors are not working.
Is it the computer? Given that fuel is getting to the injectors but the injectors are not firing, Given that I have ignition since when I spray starter fluid into the intake the car fires up and runs until it runs out of starter fluid. Where do I start? I have not used a noid light as yet to check the injector harness and as you all know the harness is a little difficult to get at because of its location under the intake.
So I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L. My car will drive 1-2 miles then it dies. After I let it sit for about 10 minutes it starts up again. I am getting to the end of what I know to do. I have replaced the ECU, Main relay, most of the sensors, Fuel pump, and fuel filter. When I bring it in to get the codes for it all I get is sensor faults even though I have replaced them. I am going to let it run for a little while and see if I can feel any heat from any relays under the dash. I like this car but not sure what else I can do.
View 4 RepliesI have a 04 late model F250. I have done the EGR delete, oil cooler upgrade, and blue spring upgrade. I have a SCT tuner but truck is currently set to stock.
My issue is it starts fine runs good but dies after about 2 minutes. No stutter or stumble. It acts as if some one just turns the key off. I have to let it sit for about 2 minutes and then it will restart. If I try any sooner then it just cranks but will not fire. This started about three weeks ago. At that time I would be driving and it would just die. I could slip into neutral turn key and it would fire right back up and I could continue down the road. As time has gone by the issue has reoccurred more often and now I have to let it sit for about 2 minutes to get it to start again but then as stated only runs for about 2 minutes and then dies again.
I have a scangauge and here are the readings I can get.
FICM main power is 47.5 - 48 volts at all times = good
FICM Logic power is 10.5 - 11.5 volts at all times = ???
IPR is 33% at idle = good Scangauge does not react fast enough to get info at startup.
ICP voltage KOEO 0.25 volts
Start 1.33 volts
Idle 1.11 - 1.13 volts dips briefly to 0.96 volts
ICP pressure Start 900+
Idle 830ish
Sync between CAMshaft and Crankshaft is 1 = good
Have not gotten fitting to do fuel pressure test yet.
My 2000 impala starts when cold, runs for 10 min and dies, i found its losing spark when warm, i changed the coil packs, control module and cam sensor and have had no changes, it dies, and doesn't start, only turns over, i leave it for 30 min er so and it starts , runs for 10 and dies....
View 4 RepliesI have a 1991 Chevy Cavalier. It usually runs fine, but recently the weather has been colder and it is having issues when I start it in the morning. Granted, I live in Florida so "cold" is only in the 40s. The car will start, but then it immediately dies. I had taken to a mechanic (a family friend) and he said that it was fine the whole time he had it and didn't recommend any repairs. It was running fine for about 2 weeks and now it is doing it again. It does appear to only be doing this when it is cold out, because the issue began when we got our first cold snap.
View 11 RepliesMy diesel suburban dies while driving. It starts right back up. I have changed the fuel filter and checked for water in fuel.
View 2 RepliesI bought a 1987 Chevy Celebrity for $700.00. Initially it ran fine after just a slight hesitation when the accelerator was first pressed. With a little more gas applied it smoothed out and ran well. Yesterday I took a drive to the library. On the way the engine stalled. After a minute or so I was able to restart the engine and proceeded to the library. On the way home the engine again stalled. I was able to restart the engine but it idled roughly and stalled as soon as the accelerator was pressed even slightly. I tried varying the amount of gas applied from very little to pressing the pedal to the floor to rocking the gas pedal to no avail. So; idles roughly, stalls when gas is applied.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1987 Chevy Celebrity w/a 2.5l automatic engine. Physically its in really good shape and only has 64k original miles. Consistent issue is it will crank (sometimes very hard to get it to do so, then run smooth, sometimes for days, sometimes for only minutes, then stall out. It usually stalls after the engine is good and warm. If you let it sit for about 5-10 minutes, it will restart and idle smooth and then go into stalling out again, sometimes within minutes, sometimes days. I have replaced the fuel tank, fuel filter, sending unit/fuel pump, fuel injector, throttle body, the computer, exhaust/muffler, mass air flow sensor, several other sensors and it has not improved or worsened the problem. I have sunk $1700.00 into this car in replacement parts. I can't believe that there's much else left that could be the cause, and I suspect its bound to be something simple, like a sensor or something, because pretty much all of the expensive stuff's been replaced.
View 1 RepliesChevy Celebrity ... Engine is 2.8 mpfi and I have been able to get it to start by pumping the gas pedal while cranking and keeping it running by having the gas pedal depressed slightly but as soon as I let off the gas the car will die. It has a new starter, new fuel filter, half a tank of gas, new battery...
Check engine light came on and i did the paperclip trick and it showed code 43 which was knock sensor.
1989 2.8L FI Celebrity Wagon. Normally runs fine (for 190K miles) but occasionally won't start. Turns over fine but make no attempt to start - like no fuel or spark. I'm guessing an electrical problem as it will start instantly and just fine a day or two later. Where to start looking for the problem?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1990 chevy lumina 2.5 L 4 cyl. 100,000 miles....The car recently started chugging while in drive and will not accelerate correctly, when I do get it to 55 mph there's still chugging, Ive replaced the fuel filter, spark plug and wires, fuel system clean, new battery, there is a inch crack in the exhaust manifold on the front of the engine, not sure if that would make me lose power to accelerate, the car idles fine, but chugs when put in drive, and will occasionally die when put in reverse....
View 3 RepliesI've been experiencing this problem ever since I bought my '90 C1500 305 but its recently gotten worse. After long trips (over 100 mi) the truck refuses (will not even crank) to start for at least 5 minutes following shutdown. Now, it will intermittently not start for 15 minutes following shutdown after shorter (~10 mi) trips unless it gets a jump, which is strange considering the battery is not run down.
I first thought it was a bad contact in the ignition cylinder, but I noticed that the batt voltage would always droop when turning the key to start, so I guess that the ignition is being applied. Now I'm wondering if the starter motor might be bad?
It's a weird problem to have, I am 100% certain the truck will start if its cold. But after a long trip it just flat out refuses, will not even crank.
I have a 90 toyota celica st. I was driving it the other day and it died on me while driving... twice! The second time was going down a steep hill and it was freaken scary for a minute as the breaks were not working, the car started again and I was able to stop! Anyway I know enough about cars that once your car starts it should not die. Could it be the alternator? It seems to start up just fine. I did notice though that when the car died on me both times I was taking a pretty sharp right turn. And when it died every thing blinked twice then out went everything. Im sure that it is a code for something but I do not have the owners manual as I was not the original owner. I just started it up today again and it makes a weird clicking noise before I even turn the key.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1990 Subaru Legacy AWD wagon with almost 300,000 miles. After driving it for almost any length of time (long enough to bring it up to operating temperature) I'll park it, shut it off, walk away, & about 10 minutes later it will emit a loud squeak from the center rear underside of the car, almost as if something shifts position when the car heats up, then shifts back when its cooling off.
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