Chevrolet - Celebrity :: 1990 - Air Will Only Blow Out Of Dashboard Vents
Mar 12, 2012
I have a 1990 Chevy Celebrity wagon with a vent problem. The air will only blow out the dashboard vents, so I'm getting no heat down below, or air to the defroster.
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I've had my car die twice on me lately. There is absolutely no warning - no sputtering, rough-running- just dies completely. I am still able to crank the engine after this happens, but it won't start immediately. After five or ten minutes, it will start and then run fine. 1990 Celebrity. what this could be and how to fix it?
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I recently had my Focus in the shop for some body work due to hail damage. After I got the car back, the air vents on the dashboard and the defogger would not blow air. Only the lower vents would blow air, regardless of which setting I had the vent selector on. (Even if I had the selector to defogger or dashboard vents only, the vents by my feet blew out air). The guy who runs the body shop said that wouldn't be related to anything they did on the car. What might be causing this? It's no longer under warranty, so I want to know if there's an easy at-home fix. (Also, when I got the car back, the dashboard clock and the preset radio stations had been reset. Don't know if this might be related to the problem with the vents).
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My battery was drained two nights ago, I jumped started it fine. However, the last two days, the truck has been hard to start, and battery seems low, even though the vehicle has been driven plenty. Today a new problem as arose, with the AC climate control. Driver side vents blow out very Hot Air, and Passenger Side blows out very cold Air. The setting on the digital climate control system says 60 F on both sides. Its possible the AC was on when the truck was jump started.
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I have a 2003 Impala with about 124,000 miles on it. A few weeks back I started to hear what can best be described as a "water gurgling" sound coming from my dashboard area or where the vents are. It happens especially when make a tight turn or something, it only last a couple of seconds and doesn't happen all the time. What am I hearing and what was the cause of this and is there any fixes for it?
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I bought a 1987 Chevy Celebrity for $700.00. Initially it ran fine after just a slight hesitation when the accelerator was first pressed. With a little more gas applied it smoothed out and ran well. Yesterday I took a drive to the library. On the way the engine stalled. After a minute or so I was able to restart the engine and proceeded to the library. On the way home the engine again stalled. I was able to restart the engine but it idled roughly and stalled as soon as the accelerator was pressed even slightly. I tried varying the amount of gas applied from very little to pressing the pedal to the floor to rocking the gas pedal to no avail. So; idles roughly, stalls when gas is applied.
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I have a 1987 Chevy Celebrity w/a 2.5l automatic engine. Physically its in really good shape and only has 64k original miles. Consistent issue is it will crank (sometimes very hard to get it to do so, then run smooth, sometimes for days, sometimes for only minutes, then stall out. It usually stalls after the engine is good and warm. If you let it sit for about 5-10 minutes, it will restart and idle smooth and then go into stalling out again, sometimes within minutes, sometimes days. I have replaced the fuel tank, fuel filter, sending unit/fuel pump, fuel injector, throttle body, the computer, exhaust/muffler, mass air flow sensor, several other sensors and it has not improved or worsened the problem. I have sunk $1700.00 into this car in replacement parts. I can't believe that there's much else left that could be the cause, and I suspect its bound to be something simple, like a sensor or something, because pretty much all of the expensive stuff's been replaced.
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Chevy Celebrity ... Engine is 2.8 mpfi and I have been able to get it to start by pumping the gas pedal while cranking and keeping it running by having the gas pedal depressed slightly but as soon as I let off the gas the car will die. It has a new starter, new fuel filter, half a tank of gas, new battery...
Check engine light came on and i did the paperclip trick and it showed code 43 which was knock sensor.
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1989 2.8L FI Celebrity Wagon. Normally runs fine (for 190K miles) but occasionally won't start. Turns over fine but make no attempt to start - like no fuel or spark. I'm guessing an electrical problem as it will start instantly and just fine a day or two later. Where to start looking for the problem?
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I have a 1990 E250 and the heat does not blow. I have only had the van a year and it somewhat worked when I got it, but at the end of least winter It stopped blowing. It does not matter what setting I have it on low or high. if I turn the defrost on and put my hand on the dash I can feel warm air but it does not blow. It is the same for the vent, I can feel warm air coming out but does not blow. Sometimes if I hit a bump it seems like it will blow a bit harder but not like it should. My question is, should I just replace the blower motor, or is there something else I should check first?
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My 2003 S60 tried to make my life interesting yet again by refusing to blow air through the vents as normal. Only a little finds its way to the vents. The fan sounds good and strong, and the temperature is proper based on my setting. It's like it's stuck somewhere between the three settings for the direction of the fan (head, torso, and feet.) It usually works fine for a while, and then it's like a computer or flap gate get tired and gives up...
It may be relevant to know that this issue occurred around the same time my cluster started dying. I have since reflowed it and it is working as normal. Unfortunately, the climate control system is still angry.
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My vents don't blow hot air, even when I have the dial set to max heat. The air is only moderately warm. In the winter, one definitely needs to keep their coat on when traveling in my car. (It's a 2003 Passat V6.) The needle in the engine temperature gauge is vertical once I have been driving for 5 minutes, so I think the thermostat is OK. This morning it was 17 degrees; I'd sure like heat soon.
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So today is the first hot day of the year here in Central PA. I jump in my car at lunch - turn on the A/C & it won't blow out of the top vents. Blowing like crazy on my feet - and freezing them - but won't blow through the dash vents! Worked fine last year - awesome in fact!! Actually cool air is trickling through the top vents - but not blowing like I know it should.
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Abridged version: My fans won't blow any air out of the vents. If I spin the blower/fan motor that is behind the glove compartment, it'll work again. But the cycle repeats itself every time I turn the car on.
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I purchased Hyundai Accent 2005 (Used car) recently. My Air Condition is having some problem. when I switch on the AC the air flow very low from the vents, even i put the fan speed is full (4) feels like fan switch is in low (1). The blower giving sound like it is giving air like more than full speed. fan speed selector switch working ok, because the speed of the air vary from the 1 to 4 positions. also i feel very low cooling in high speed also. i found one more problem that if i change the air flow switch to defrost level, the air flow is coming through the windshield defrost vents and the floor vents. if the switch selected to Floor-Defrost Level also the air coming through the both ways. What could the problem.
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On my 2000 f250 diesel, it seems like the ac blows barely on the max ac setting. I swear its gotten worse over the years. Is it the fan? something else?
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So, I purchased a 2004 Subaru forester at the in of 2013, from a private seller. When I turn on the a/c the air is warm, I thought maybe the refrigerant so low, so I check the level and it is good, the a/c compressor clutch engages, but warm air still comes out of the vents. I am asking what else could cause the a/c to blow warm air?
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I have a 98 gtp 2 door with the electronic dual zone climate control. I can't get air to blow much out of the floor vents. I applied vacuum directly to the actuator and air came from the vents fine. It seems there is a box behind the glove box that controls the vacuum to each actuator. My question is, would the issue likely be with that vacuum distribution box or with the electronic climate box itself.
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I have a 2014 Santa Fe and after about 2 hours on the highway the A/C freezes up and won't blow air through the vents. If I shut off the A/C and run just fresh air in about 10 minutes the volume returns, and I can once again turn on the A/C for another 2+ hours. I run the A/C on fresh air not recirculate.
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Of the 4 vents that blow into the passenger's face in my jetta, only 1 really works. All other vents seem to work well (i.e., windshield defrost, footwell etc) but the ones that blow the heat/AC in your face seem to be affected. the one working vent is the driver's side of the 2 central vents (the ones above the stereo) neither of the 2 for the passenger work, and the one by the Driver's door works a bit.
I've tried opening them with the dial on the dash and closing, but that seems to have little effect. Are there dampers or something that can be adjusted on the inside of the vents?
I've spent some time searching on this one and I mostly found how to replace the heater-core and the blower itself. The blower works as does A/C, that one vent is ice-cold, but the other 3 don't really do anything.
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I have an issue with my a/c. The left side blows out air but it is not cold. The right side is cold. The whole front dash has 4 vents total so the left two does not blow out cold air at all.
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