When in idle the car is fine, however when revving the engine up to 2500-3000 rpm there is a puffing noise from the exhaust pipe area. What this could be?There is only on puff when reaching 2500 rpm... When I asked mechanic he said "it's because there is a small engine... Its a cheverolet cavalier 2001...
View 16 RepliesI have a 2001 toyota corolla with a manual transmission that I just bought that has about 130,000 miles on it. It runs very well except for it runs out of oil about every 150 to 200 miles. The car does not seem to be leaking oil, however revving the engine in the slightest causes the car to smoke from the exhaust pipe. We tried changing the oil as well as putting in high mileage oil and sea foam motor treatment. This worked slightly but not much.
View 9 RepliesA rubbing sound that began with lower temps (winter here). It occurs when going over bumps - even small. Does not occur at highway speeds. Gets quite loud. Does not have to do with steering or heat as far as I can determine. Some times does not occur at all. Don't know if any relation, but recently the dome light is coming on when coming to a complete stop.
View 1 RepliesRecently I had my check engine light come on in my car as well as a service light. My car is at 140,000 miles and I drive it around the county for work so I knew I would have some expensive repairs in my future. My stepdad disconnected my car battery and then reconnected it which caused the light to go out so my mechanic was not able to read the code to find the issue. (We did find that my service light was coming on right before my headlight went out so I replaced the bulb and have not had the service light come back on since.)
My mechanic let me know my catalytic converter pipe was rusting and falling on my exhaust and gave me an estimate for the cost of a new pipe, O2 sensor and labor charge. He quoted the catalytic converter pipe at $304.25 and with everything else involved, the total for my estimate came to $521.00.
I have read before that some people suggested possibly finding a used pipe at a salvage yard to save money on the repair. I called around and found a place that would sell it to me for around $100.00. I'm not handy with cars and know the bare minimum when it comes to repairs, so what I don't know is if it is safe to use a pipe from a salvage yard compared to buying a new one.
Here's a link to a video where you can hear what I'm describing. The noise is most noticeable around the start (first 18 seconds) and the end of the video when I'm closest to the exhaust pipe:
YouTube ....
You may need headphones to hear it, but the engine seems to be making a bit of a puffing sound during idle. It happens completely randomly and I'm not quite sure what could be causing it.
Aside from this noise, the engine seems to idle normally, and the check engine light isn't on. I had all of the injectors out a few weeks ago for cleaning. They all appear to be working fine. I also cleaned the throttle body at that same time and ensured there were no obstructions for the air intake and filter.
What might be causing this sound? 1999 Ford F250 Super Duty 5.4L
I just purchased an 05 cavalier and today a loud clicking noise started right down by the glove box. I have full a/c and heat. If I turn the climate control to recirculate the clicking stops. But now the orange engine light is on. I've heard it could be the blend door actuator from what I've read online. Would this cause the engine light to come on? The code reading from autozone was coolant leak/coolant low/thermostat something along those lines. But the engine light came on 3 hrs after the clicking started so I am thinking it's related.
Oh also (the clicking stops after the car warms up a bit)? I would love to just buy the part online and have a small place replace part. I cannot afford hundreds of dollars in labor. If that is the right part does the dash need to come out in an 05 Cavalier or can it be gotten to under the glove box?
Just walked by the back end of my new Prius III and heard what sounded like a electric motor running from the general area of the exhaust pipe at the right rear end of the car. This was about 5 hours after I last drove it.
View 1 Replies2002 Chevy Tahoe Z71 ... When I first turn my car on in the morning (or after an extended period of time - i.e. the car has completely cooled down) it makes a clicking / ticking noise that appears to be coming from the engine area. It lasts approximately 10 - 12 seconds and then simply goes away. This happens consistently. I recently had it serviced end-to-end: belts, plugs, total tune-up etc.
View 3 RepliesI've got an '88 Volvo 740 Turbo Wagon: 5-speed, 225K miles, that's been acting up over the last year. She doesn't burn oil (qt in 1500 typical) and appears to still be tight. The Turbo works and bearings make no noise. The engine service light does NOT glow (but I admit I haven't checked the bulb). I do have a Haynes manual and have been using it to assist with some results (see replaced items), but I'm not trained on this car and this manual is woefully lacking in good diags for some obvious things. (IMG: [URL] .....)
Symptoms: She cold starts OK, but try to restart warmed at all and she usually has to sit at least an hour or no go. Outside temp seems to make little difference. There's a gassy smell while cranking warm and it's very much like a flooded carburetor engine. Often, the engine will finally catch with the pedal floored after a long crank. Also, after warming and driving a few minutes, the idle erratically will not return to normal, sitting up at 1800-2700 RPM for a bit before finally calming down. It was also running a little rough. There's a fair amount of carbon at the exhaust pipe and MPG is only ~20 and I'm a light foot. The idle RPM varies a bit much moving around between 600-1100 RPM warm.
What I've done this year: It had a broken thermostat (replaced), failing alternator (replaced), failed starter (replaced), failing fuel pump (replaced with filter), recent oil change (has turned black after 800 miles). Most grounds around engine and firewall and 12 volt ignition contacts cleaned. The bat cables were cleaned and terminals coated. Ohm tested the injectors OK (all exactly the same, on spec) and they all "click" in operation. I replaced a bad coil (low ohms by 20% for both primary and 2nd) and changed the carbon fouled plugs (which were also ill-gapped by some hamhand), both of which worked for the roughness considerably. The plug wires all came up roses well under 10k ohms. The battery was a suspect for testing low so much when resting, but the alternator seems to have slowly fixed that (and problems come when system is charging OK). However, the main warm start and idle problem persists. (IMG: [URL] ....)
My next good guess: An obvious rich condition exists and, having eliminated quite a few other things, a sticking "Air Control Valve" seems the likely suspect (some call it an idle control valve but I'm going by the manual). My specific observations of this device: after a warm no start, I pulled the ACV electrical lead and she fired right up and idled well at 16-1800 RPM. I plugged it back in and she chugged and nearly died before idling ~800 RPM. As it idled normally, I pulled the rubber hose from the upstream air connection to the ACV and it chugged and died within 5 seconds. I noted the vacuum was very strong. Putting the hose on, it wouldn't restart till I removed the electrical lead again. The ACV circuit has continuity at the device but I haven't ohm tested it yet. My best diag is the mechanical part of the ACV is gummed up or worn out. The Haynes manual was almost no way in arriving at this conclusion. (IMG: [URL] ....)
I have a 2005 Chevy Cavalier and have been realizing that the ride has been getting noisier, but when I make a left hand turn ( or even turn the wheel 5 degrees or so to the left) it is much quieter. It sounds like a low vibrating sound and seems to shake the whole front end of my chassis. I can feel the vibration through the gas pedal, and it continues even when in nuetral or without the gas depressed. It is worse between 40-65 mph. Loose parts, misalignment, motor mounts, bad belts? And what it might cost to have this fixed?
View 5 RepliesLast week my car started making a rattling noise whenever I turned it on and when I went over bumps or potholes in the road. It sounded like it was coming from the trunk latch or something. It also started squeaking- I knew it wasn't my breaks because I wasn't using my brakes when the squeaking happened. I finally realized my muffler is jiggling around, so I crawled under my car to check it out. There's a part on the left of the muffler right by the rear tire that connects the muffler to the under side of the car. It looks like something is missing- rubber or something that holds the pieces of metal there. Is this something I can find and fix myself? Or do I need to go to a mechanic? I was going to zip-tie it up, but there's not really anything to loop it through. Will my car be further damaged if I don't fix it soon? (2004 Chevy Cavalier)
View 4 RepliesI have a 93 ford taurus 3.8L V6 automatic GL. The exhaust clamp between the resonator and exhaust pipe came off and I need to know what size clamp I will need to replace it. I think it is a 2 inch but I am not sure.
View 1 Repliesi have a 2002 250 with the 7.3. i put a mbrp aluminized 4in turbo back with a FTE 30in resonator. I'm getting a lot of noise in the cab sounds like its where the turbo goes into the 4in pipe. the muffler guy said its because of the bigger pipe and not a leak. is there anything i can do to get rid of the excess noise.
View 8 RepliesI just got a 5 inch turbo back Magnaflow stainless exhaust system installed on my 2007 F 450. The downpipe rests directly on the firewall and causes a horrible vibration and noise at times. I have been on the phone talking directly with Magnaflow trying to resolve this issue
View 6 Repliesi have my 4 inch exhaust pipe cut just behind the rear of the cab right now with no muffler. If i cut it further up maybe jsut under the front seat or so what would this to the sound? would it make it deeper or louder?
View 7 RepliesActually developed a crack and subsequent leak in a pipe running lengthwise, so assume the factory weld over the years went bad. Since it would be a weld overhead, wonder what method would be best? Would oxy acetylene work or mig? I don't have a tig so that not an option for me.
View 2 Replies I've been fighting this almost a month now.2.2L Engine.
The engine turns over, but want start.
We have fuel pressure (55psi) and a spark.
Sprayed ether in the intake -- nothing.
Changed the crankshaft positioning sensor. Put a simple scanner on it, it stated no errors or faults could be found.
Tried another ignition module, checked the PCM fuse and ignition module fuse, both look fine.
Installed an anti-theft system bypass and followed the reset instructions. Didn't fix.
Just for fun we changed the spark plugs as well.
Now, the person I was with who saw the spark (I was inside the car) says the spark looked "weak" to him. Is this possible?
I have a 2003 Chevy Cavalier. When I'm going at some speed (not from a stop) to the left (like on a curve), I hear a high-pitch squeaky/squealing noise. It's not one long continuous noise, but more like chk, chk, chk, etc. and high in pitch. It doesn't happen when I'm going to the right. And I don't hear it if I'm going very slowly, such as turning left from a complete stop.
What this might be?
I have a 97 Chevy Cavalier, 2.2 ltr, that started giving me problems last week. I was going to leave the house and got a bout 50 ft before I heard a "tink" noise and it died. It won't start now. I have checked everything that I can think of. It's not a rod or anything like that. It has to be something really simple. It will turn over, just can't seem to start.
View 6 RepliesI drive a 2003 Chevy Cavalier with approximately 75,000 miles on it, and it has always run exceptionally well. However, during the last couple of months it has developed what I would consider a lower-pitched "whine" or "groan" emanating from the front of the car when making a turn. Here are a few specifics:
-The noise is more pronounced on tighter turns and/or when moving at a faster speed. For example, doing a U-turn causes the noise to be very pronounced; turning into a parking space at a very low speed barely creates any noticeable noise at all.-The noise seems to be worse when making a left turn than when making a right turn, however turning either direction can create the noise.-The noise seems to have gotten slightly more pronounced over time--that is, it doesn't seem to have been triggered by a single event such as running over a pothole.
I am not particularly well-versed in diagnosing car problems, particularly when it involves anything to do with the drive train (which is what I suspect here). Some rudimentary internet research seems to point towards a damaged or failing CV joint in one of the front wheels, although this has not been properly diagnosed. Thus, my questions are as follows:
-What is the likely source of the noise? Is a damaged CV joint the most likely explanation, or is this explainable in other ways?-How serious of a problem is this? If indeed it is the CV joint, my understanding is that this is an issue that needs to be addressed promptly as it could quickly become a dangerous situation (some reports indicate that the wheel(s) might come off while driving).
So I have a 1999 Cavalier..I drove it yesterday without issues but when I got up this morning to go to work, I turned the key to start it and it seemed as if there was a boom from the engine. The engine didn't start, but when I tried the key again, it started right up. I drove 35 miles to work, including some highway miles at 70 mph. What would that have been? Is it a sign of things to come?
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