Chevrolet - Cavalier :: Battery Light Coming On At High Speed
Apr 27, 2012
Few weeks ago my battery light coming on when I am on the highway (1999 Chevy Cavalier). It wasn't coming on until I hit around 70-75 mph. It comes on and goes off. Then, several seconds later, it comes back on and goes back off. I replaced the belt and the first day driving, it didn't come back on. The next day though, it started again.
I also replaced the valve cover gasket because it was leaking oil and I thought maybe the belt was getting some oil on it. That does not appear to be the case, unless the oil is coming from somewhere else.
I have an old style voltmeter, nothing digital, and when I place the meter on the battery, it seems to have an adequate charge, but noticed something odd when I placed it on the battery while the car was idling. The thing was showing a greater voltage while running, somewhere around 14+ volts (can't remember exact reading).
But, occasionally, the needle on the voltmeter would just drop off to 0 and then suddenly come back up to around 14 volts, maybe a bit more. I don't know if it was the voltmeter not reading it right because it does not have clamps, it is just two pin shaped ends on the red and black wires. I was holding the pins onto the battery as tight and still as possible, so if it was correct, why would the voltage drop off like that?
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I noticed last week that when I am traveling to work, only when on I-80 at higher speeds, the battery light comes on in the Cavalier (1999). When I am on smaller roads, at slower speeds, it goes away. The light is not on the entire time I am driving fast, it comes on for a few seconds, then goes off, then comes back on, and goes back out. It doesn't appear to be affecting anything else, but want to get it fixed so I'm not stranded somewhere. Battery is not very old and alternator was rebuilt within past two years. I do get a bit of a squeal from the alternator belt when the car is running. Do I just need to readjust the alternator or could it be worse?
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When I start my car it bogs down, dies, & the battery & oil light come on. I am able to start it & rev it up & then go but will die & I do the same then it goes, but recently acts as if it is dying while driving.It started a couple weeks ago while I was driving but restarted & figured it was the battery as it was old & tested badly. I bought a new battery, changed the oil, & air filter for maintenance & it ran fine for a could weeks.Now it is wise than when it started & dies more often.Do you think it could be the plug & wires or alternator?Do not feel like spending a lot of money to go through every part.1999 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L 5 speed.
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I recently bought a 2001 Chevy Cavalier with 85,000 miles in October 2014. Since that time, I've fixed the brakes, done emissions testing, etc. But recently the car started to act funny: the trac off and engine light would appear and then the shift between 1 / 2 gear or 2 / 3 would rev up high. I'd stop, pull over, turn off, turn on, and then continue. I was worried, so I took and the mechanic changed the transmission fluid.
However, the problem is getting worse. I was driving, the trac off and engine light came on, and about 30-secs later the oil and battery light appear and the car shuts off. I took it back in and they ran tests to check it, but what the problem could be. I don't drive my car very frequently, mostly weekends to visit my family who live about an hour 1/2 from me. But so far every time I drive it, the car stops.
Some suggestions I've heard:-- low fuel injection?-- wheel speed sensors
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This is the code that comes up on my 2002 2.2 Cavalier. Camshaft sensor bank 1. After a lot of research I was led to believe it was most likely the upstream 02 sensor. Replaced it, engine light still on. Wipe codes, light goes off, turn off car, turn back on, light back on. What other possible problems could be causing the light to be on? It's been on the entire time I've had the car which is 3 years. I've had it e tested with the light on and it's passed with flying colors. It's up for an e test, actually I have 5 flipping days to figure this out, have it e tested and get a sticker for it.
I've been trying to figure it out for well over a month since I realized an e test was due and they've changed the way they do the tests now, they told me even tho the light most likely has nothing to do with the emissions they can't test it if the light is on period. I was told to start pulling fuses because it could be something as simple as a bad fuse. The car is in relatively good shape under the hood, no major problems and much of the car is still factory. No weird symptoms other then sometimes it will rev high at idle or low speed but as soon as I get to 4th gear it always balances out.
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Today my son's car just would not start. The battery is okay, the fuses look okay but car won't start. Up to now, it has run just fine.
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My car began to not start almost every other time i tried to start without being jumped and now will not start at all without being jumped. the battery won't stay charged and I bought the battery brand new 6 months ago.
1987 chevy cavalier, over 100,000 miles....
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I have had this issue with the braking system for about a year now. Most of the time when using the brakes, everything works fine, but once in awhile, it seems like the brakes on one (I think one) wheel seem to just let go, apply full braking power, or both one after the other. When this happens, you hear loud clunking sounds (which I guess it the caliper going from on to full off and back again) and the rear of the car will raise and lower with the instances. There are also times when a high pitched squeak sound comes from the wheel (like when a bus uses their brakes) which will normally happen a second before coming to a full stop. It does not happen at the same time, but I think is related. Going off the sounds and rear of the car moving I tend to think this is focusing around the driver's rear tire. The brake fluid has been changed, the brakes have been changed on all 4 wheels, and so have the all brake lines to the cylinders. There are no leaks anywhere in the system. The car does have ABS.
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I have a 2004 Chevy cavalier with 133,000 miles. For the last week I have been hearing a ticking noise - seems to be coming from inside the dash board on the passengers side (glove compartment). The ticking noise begins when the engine starts up and stops when the engine stops, so the noise is continuous while the engine is running. The car runs well, no loss in power, nothing out of the ordinary, with the exception of the noise. I opened the hood and listen - the sound seems to come from inside the firewall.
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2004 chevy cavalier ... when i first start up the car & put it into the drive, it acts like it's going to stall and the low traction light comes on. if i go slow enough, the light will go out, if not both the ABS and NO TRAC and the SERVICE lights will come on. i took it to a repair shop a year ago and they jiggled the wires by the left front wheel and said they'd have to look into it more since I was there for them to just check out the brakes (they were fine). after they jiggled the wires, the problem didn't happen for another couple of months. today i took it to a chevy dealer & they said i needed to replace the left front speed sensor & harness. I just got my oil changed on the way home, the usual warning lights never came on when they would doing the usual starting up and backing out of parking spots. do you think that just a wire is loose and every time i have them look at it, it reconnects?
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I just bought a chevy cavalier z24 2.4 liter engine. Yesterday my coolant light kept going on and off at different times so I added coolant to the overflow reservoir as shown in the car's manual. Today the coolant light is on constantly and it was smoking under the hood. I stopped and there was a big puddle of coolant was under the car. The car is not overheating. Did I put too much coolant in it or could it be a problem with the radiator?
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This is my daughter in laws car. The rough idle, check engine light and trac light all happened at the same time. She was in a parking lot and drove over a speed bump when all the problems started. The check engine light flashes when driving above 25mph. It's on solid at idle. I found the EVAP purge valve plastic nipple was busted off so I replaced the assembly. I was totally surprised when this had no effect on the symptoms.
I find it strange that the car was running fine and then has all these symptoms after going over a speed bump.
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I just purchased an 05 cavalier and today a loud clicking noise started right down by the glove box. I have full a/c and heat. If I turn the climate control to recirculate the clicking stops. But now the orange engine light is on. I've heard it could be the blend door actuator from what I've read online. Would this cause the engine light to come on? The code reading from autozone was coolant leak/coolant low/thermostat something along those lines. But the engine light came on 3 hrs after the clicking started so I am thinking it's related.
Oh also (the clicking stops after the car warms up a bit)? I would love to just buy the part online and have a small place replace part. I cannot afford hundreds of dollars in labor. If that is the right part does the dash need to come out in an 05 Cavalier or can it be gotten to under the glove box?
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Car is a 1995 Chevy Cavlier LS. 2.2L engine, about 127,000 miles. Has a minor coolant leak (freeze-out plug) and a slow oil leak (if I forget to check the level, the oil light comes on about 3000 miles after an oil change). It's beat up, had a few years of poor maintenance (but limited use) before I got it from a relative 3-4 years ago. I do oil changes at 3-5k miles, keeping fluids topped off, and try to remember to change the air filter regularly (which reminds me, I think I'm due for one).
Problem history: About 7 months ago, I had problems with the battery going dead. Some of it related to stupid mistakes--lights on or door ajar. Battery was old, parts store suggested replacing it. New battery fixed the issue. About 2 weeks ago, I tried to start it and ran into the same problem after the car hadn't been run for 2+ days. Dash lights come on, the key-in/startup bell chimes, but turning the key to start leads to fast clicking from the engine and the chime sounding rapidly. I forget if it made any other sounds at the time. Attempting to jump it didn't work, but the other car had an old battery and the cables were kindof cheap.
Called roadside, and he was able to jump it. He suggested taking the battery to Advance, so we did that.Advance charged the battery, tested it, said it was fine. Suggested I bring the car over and they could test to see if it's charging the battery. I did that, and it seemed ok. Engine was a little rough, possibly spark plugs, but I haven't checked that out yet. I figured I had done something stupid again and left a door ajar or the headlights on.Today, same problem again. I last drove it 2-3 days ago. Headlights were definitely off. It's possibly the driver door was ajar causing the dome light to stay on, but I doubt it. Same noises when I turn the key as before, I hear the sound of the engine trying to start once (I think that it's trying to turn over), but it won't start. Haven't had a chance to try and jump it yet.
Possibly relevant: Back in the spring, it wouldn't start one day, but the engine wouldn't do anything, no clicking etc. Neutral safety switch was loose/misaligned. Mechanic was able to make a small adjustment, and it's been fine.
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I have a 2000 z28 Camaro, and I'm having problems with it slipping at high speed. and I noticed today that fluid is leaking and the car loses power as it warms up. it runs great starts right up, just having problems with the tranny. What may be going on, I do check the fluid and fill it when it needs it. and it runs great until I need to get up to around 50mph.
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I have a 1995 Chevrolet Suburban that the a/c fan speed works on every position except high. I have replaced the resistor and the fan speed switch. Neither of those things fixed the problem. With the connector off the blower motor and a test light attached, power is present in all positions except high. When switched to the high speed position power is not present in the lead.
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Passengers side tail light doesn't react when braking, using hazards or blinker, what do I replace? The bulb is lit, but doesn't blink or brighten when the brakes are applied. As of right now I'm replacing the bulb socket seeing as when I replaced the bulb the contacts were covered in a brown crust, is there something else I should be looking at?
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Driving home last night I noticed this strange noise coming from the back seat area. not very loud, just a faint electrical motor sound emitting from the passenger rear side of the vehicle. It was strange as in i've never heard it before, I eventually narrowed it down to what I think is the battery fan. When i stopped and got out with the car still running i went to the back seat and listened under the seat and could hear the fan running.
What I thought was strange though was the noise when driving. I would only hear it at speeds above 20 km/h. When I would pull up to a stop and slowed below 20 the noise would switch off, no change in pitch, it would just stop. Then when I would accelerate above 20 the noise would "switch on again". I was only driving through an urban area at the time so never got speed up to anything faster than 50kmh. I'm used to the typical regen braking noise, inverter whine, brake popping noises, etc but this one has me a little worried as it was a new sound and it was coming from the battery area.
I do live in a very hilly area with lots of short steep hills that usually gives me full bars on the battery at least once a day. Also rush hour traffic can be horrendous around here which can bring the battery down to 2 or 3 bars sometimes.
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Very high pitched "whistle"(enough to give you a headache) as vehicle speed increases or fan speed increased. This will not occur on recirculate and will go away if a window or roof is opened.
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So I've been driving my tiggy with the rusted brakes from when I left it for a few months during this past winter season outdoors. I had VW check on it and they said that the only way to fix the problem is to replace the brakes (rotors and pads, I assume) for over $1k. Is there really no way to maybe scrape/sand the rusts out? Right now, when I step on the brakes, I have the pulsating feel and the car shakes when coming from a high speed. At first I thought it would go away after driving it a bit and stepping on the brakes since I did just that last year when I left it for a month during the winter season as well. If the only way is to have the brakes replaced, then I guess I have to shell out the money.
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My car dies when I come to a stop unless I gently press on the gas pedal while holding done the brake. What can cause this?
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