Chevrolet - Cavalier :: 2007 - Front End Squeaks And Creaks
Jun 7, 2013
I have recently made some repairs to my 2007 Chevy Cavalier LT AT/FWD/ABS/TRACTION CONTROL, has 60,000 miles. I replaced the stabilizer bar bushings, tie rod ends, control arms and sway bar end links then got an alignment. Later on a week later I changed the front brakes. The car felt good for 2 weeks after the suspension parts were replaced and a week after the brake job, then all of the sudden the car began squeaking and creaking on the front end.
Sometimes, the creaking and squeaking come when I turn, some times when I slow done and sometimes when I go from a stop to slowly speeding up (in forward drive or in reverse). I am puzzled as to what it could be. I just this evening sprayed some Blaster! Silicon Lubricant on the stabilizer bar bushings and control arm pivot rear pivot bushing.
The sounds seems not so loud now, but the squeaking and creaking are still there. Could be that where I sprayed was only where some of the noise was coming from. I suspect that the other squeaking and creaking could be coming from the strut bushings and/or strut bearing.
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I recently bought an 2003 manual transmission Cavalier which looks and drives great, albeit for one (hopefully minor) issue:
The front end repetitively squeaks like a squeaky toy (does not sound like metal-on-metal) when driving. The squeaking is not constant ("Squeak....") but has a rhythm (Squeak....Squeak...Squeak...Squeak...Squeak). The tempo of the squeaking increases the faster I go and appears to be loudest (or most annoying) around 30 mph. In addition, some bumps will cause the squeaking to occur, but the squeaking will return to its original rhythm immediately afterward. The squeaking sounds similar/equal distance whether I'm driving or riding in the passenger seat.
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Now that its cold out, my car sounds awful. I read something about the LCA bushings... What to replace?
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My Passat seems happy enough. Been over a year since I've had a problem. Not even a CEL. My dilema is do I take this into the dealer for warranty work or best leave well enough alone.
For kicks I did a Vag COm scan the other day (last one was a year ago and I cleared the codes ) and I have a handful of intermittent codes again. Mostly the same. Cleared again, rescanned in a week and only one came back. They are mostly Central Convenience / HVAC codes. The one that came back was one of 2 codes for positioning motors in the HVAC.
I know digging into dash stuff isn't fun. Creaks and squeaks and demons come out if the the tech isn't careful in what he does. I'm not noting any issues at all.
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2005 F350 4x4... I just installed some Bilstein 5100 on all 4 corners. Stock truck. No lift.
Now every bump I go over the truck squeaks and creaks like crazy. It's embarrassing. Sounds like bushings? Truck was fine before with the stock Ranchos.
I torqued rear to 46ftlbs and front to 76ftlbs. I tightened the top nut until the bushings compressed 1/4" each.
No instructions came with them. Do I need to lube something?
This was a last minute install before a road trip and they ride great but I'm hoping the noise is something I can take care of.
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My 2008 rear suspension creaks and squeaks and groans when I move my horse trailer. Truck has 32k miles, has done since purchase last year, squirted wd 40 and that works. At ford place now, they say it is because I added the ride rite air bags. Told them it made same sound before I installed. What to tell them (tech service bulletins ?) or give up and keep spraying and looking for dry joint?
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My 1997 cavalier convertible left side front bounces like crazy on bumps and uneven pavement. Installed new strut, and a new tire and balanced. Still does same thing. Rides great on smooth road. All suspension bushings look good and there is no play anywhere.
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We recently had the struts replaced on our '99 Honda Accord (about 2 months ago I think), and since then, or maybe shortly after then, we get very loud unhappy creaking sounds from the front end. If the car has been sitting all night, it usually does not creak right away, and the sound is the worst after we have been driving for a while. It is most evident when turning or going over bumps at low speeds.
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My car dies when I come to a stop unless I gently press on the gas pedal while holding done the brake. What can cause this?
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Car won't start after filling up with gas. I have tried a new fuel filter, new gas tank cap, checked for pressure on fuel pump. We have gottenit to start (but barely) when either hit gas tank with hammer or shake the back of the car, otherwise you have to set and wait 15-30 minutes before it will start and when it does it smells very weird (like it's flooded but an extra strange smell with it). I have seen a similar posting on here and someone suggested it might be a purge value problem. In talking with someone at auto store they didn't think this was the issue. I do have my check engine light on all the time and when checked the code , it said oxygen sensor. My two other Cavaliers have also had the oxygen sensor problem but it never did this with that code.
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Had a directional bulb go out recently and replaced it without any problem. About 3 days ago it went again, I bought a 2 pack of bulbs - replaced it and drove on. Almost instantly right after I turned and signaled the right directional bulb blew again, I grabbed the extra bulb put it into plug and started car - first right turn with directional bulb blows again. I'm at a loss as to where this can be happening. Is this in the steering column or elsewhere, where do I even begin to look.
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My daughter says that the AC on her 2001 Chevy Cavalier cuts off when she is idling.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier. I am having some issues with it.
When it first starts it idles really hard. The RPMs are up and if will try to accelerate without hitting the gas. This stops after the first minute.
The second part is that when stopped, but in drive, it idles hard. It does it though when the AC is turned off. You can see the RPM gauge go above and below the normal 500 RPM. If you turn the AC on then it levels out. It will occasionally idle hard with the AC on, but rarely and not as much.
The car drives well and is not overheating.
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The cold air box is a black plastic box that sits forward of the engine/valve cover. It connects via black plastic tube to the air filter box on one end and to the engine on the other. I took it off it. 'Lo and behold it was full of oil.
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2003 Cavalier auto 116K miles - Car is sputtering and stalling at stoplights with a/c on. What can I check?
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So I'm driving to work this morning, 35 miles one way, and I get to my destination, or almost. 1999 Cavalier, automatic transmission, 215,000 miles.
As I get to the red light where I need to turn, it seemed as if it was not upshifting on its own. It is an automatic. I made the turn, then made another turn and as I pressed the gas, it seemed to do the same, not wanting to shift into second.
As I turned to go up to the second level of the parking lot, it gave up about 3/4 of the way up to level 2. Pressing the gas just revved the engine. I tried switching into 1, 2, back to D, even to R, but nothing worked. It is like it just gave up and decided the only thing that would work is neutral.
When I switch into gear normally, you hear that slight thud as it falls into gear, but when I try it now, nothing happens.
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I have a '99 Passat 4 door sedan, 1.8t and have started to notice some serious groans and squeaks in the front end. I can get it to squeak in the garage just by pushing up and down on the front end, and by turning the wheel while stationary.
The car's 10 years old and I expect some back talk but, I'm wondering what I can lube on the front end. I took a look last weekend and the cv boots are fine, there's nothing leaking out of the car and no real ugly surprises under the hood.
My cursory peek inside the wheel wells didn't turn up any grease fittings, although I'm guessing there have to be a few. I can, almost fondly, remember all the zirc fittings on my '67 beetle and am wondering if there are any easy solutions to my squeaking/groaning problem.
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I have a 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier. I've been getting a pulsing vibration which feels like the left front. It starts at about 40mph and gets worse the faster I go. The vibration completely goes away with the slightest left turn on the freeway. It vibrates on acceleration and deceleration, in neutral and in gear (5spd manual). I've currently replaced the front struts, strut mounts, pads and rotors, left front wheel bearing, tie rod ends, had the front end aligned and the tires balanced.
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Recently I had my check engine light come on in my car as well as a service light. My car is at 140,000 miles and I drive it around the county for work so I knew I would have some expensive repairs in my future. My stepdad disconnected my car battery and then reconnected it which caused the light to go out so my mechanic was not able to read the code to find the issue. (We did find that my service light was coming on right before my headlight went out so I replaced the bulb and have not had the service light come back on since.)
My mechanic let me know my catalytic converter pipe was rusting and falling on my exhaust and gave me an estimate for the cost of a new pipe, O2 sensor and labor charge. He quoted the catalytic converter pipe at $304.25 and with everything else involved, the total for my estimate came to $521.00.
I have read before that some people suggested possibly finding a used pipe at a salvage yard to save money on the repair. I called around and found a place that would sell it to me for around $100.00. I'm not handy with cars and know the bare minimum when it comes to repairs, so what I don't know is if it is safe to use a pipe from a salvage yard compared to buying a new one.
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So, starting about 2 months ago my car started starting kind of hard and the CEL came on. It would crank for a few seconds, start to turn over but sound like it was going to sputter out, but ultimately turn over. It seemed to be exacerbated the longer the car sat between times running. I let the car sit for about a week while I was waiting for parts to come in to change out my front brakes, and now it won't start.
I hooked up my newly acquired OBD II reader and got the following DTCs:P0130 - O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1P0130 P - Same, P for PendingP0336 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A CKT Range/PerformanceP0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction
Based on my limited understanding, I would think something having to do with the last two codes would be why the car isn't starting, but it seems like it could also easily be something else not directly indicated by those codes. So what I'm wondering is, do I need sensors replaced, or is there something else that needs to be replaced on the car. The car has ~130k on the odo.
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1999 Chevy cavalier. Since 2010 Brake warning lights come on intermittently ABS, ETS (!)BRAKES, and traction. Brakes jerk the car forward a few shot times before car comes to a stop, car stops fine 90% of the time. Three different mechanics can not find anything wrong by looking at brakes and I'm lucky if they can drive it and have the problem happen which is basically every other day. New rotors were put on in 2010 twice first time they were warped, wheel cylinders replaced or whatever they do to them recently. Dealership said I needed new rotors I don't think they know.
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