My future mother-in-law has a 2004 Chevy Cavalier. Last night night when she tried to put it in gear, the car would not go in reverse or drive. She recently had a tune-up on her car a month ago and everything seemed to be working fine. I think the transmission is dead. Does that sound right?
View 8 RepliesI have been driving a 2003 Chevrolet cavalier and the automatic shift is stuck and can only shift to neutral and drive since Thursday morning. It wont go up to reverse and parking and down to the other 3 shifts.
This first happened last April but somehow with the right grip or pressure was able to get back to all the other shifts. Since then it happened 2-3 times as I can remember and now could be getting worse.
I have a 96 Chevy Cavalier with about 160k miles on it. Yesterday it started kicking kind of strangely from a dead stop to accelerating while in drive. This evening, after driving it both to and from work, when I backed in to a parking spot, it got stuck in reverse. The car was still pulling in drive and in reverse, it just seems like the gear shifter moves freely.
Idle seems fine, the vehicle just doesn't want to go into park or drive anymore.
Is this just as simple as the transmission being blown, or could there be another problem? Also, now that I've gotten the car turned off, it will not turn over again, since the vehicle won't shift into park.
I have had a 2000 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 liter 4 cyl Automatic for about 5 or 6 years now. I have noticed the whole time I have owned it that when I start the car and shift from Park to Drive I hear a clunk and the with the hood open the engine pivots back and forth one time more than it is supposed to. This only happens from park to drive, it does not do this from park to any other gears, and once the car is in drive everything is normal. The car has no shifting problems at all, no slips or clunking while driving or hitting the gas real fast on take off.
I changed the all three mounts on the car yesterday. Upper engine mount (still in decent shape), lower dogbone (tore to hell), and Transmission mount (decent). I really haven't noticed it get any worse over the years I just know its not right. I have never changed the fluid or the filter since I owned the car, and most likely it has never been changed in the cars life. Could a dirty filter, and dirty fluid cause this problem? Or could the linkage need adjusted or replaced?
2007 Chevy Impala3.5L 6-cyl Flex Fuel engine w/ 4 speed auto trans52,800 miles
Extreme driving conditions maintenance schedule kept.Transmission standard service done @ 32,800 miles which was 20k ago.
PROBLEM:
1) Twice in past three days, when shifting from reverse to drive the transmission has slipped, revving hard with rpms spiked above 3,000 for about 2 seconds before engaging the forward drive gear.
Normally I come to a complete stop of all reverse motion with foot fully on the brake pedal before shifting. Admittedly, I got sloppy the first time noted and still had very slight reverse motion when I shifted.
2) Several times late today, while driving uphill at approx 35 - 45 mph, when the car downshifted there was an extremely brief moment of transmission slippage with spiked rpms. It was so brief each time that at first I thought I'd imagined it until it happened again. Then it did it once on a level surface in a parking lot when having shifted from reverse to drive without problem and was gently accelerating the transmission again slipped for just the briefest moment when the normal automatic shift point was reached. So far, all incidences while driving have been so extremely brief that it was the merest hint of a hiccup.
3) When bringing the car to a complete stop, such as at a stoplight or when parking, as the transmission automatically shifts for the braking of speed, sometimes there is a minor but noticeable thunk sound seeming to come from underneath the car, I'd judge to be somewhere about under the level of the dashboard or slightly forward of that. Could that be from a worn or broken transmission mount? And, if so, could that be somehow causing the slippage problem?
4) This transmission has always, even since new, allowed more roll after being shifted into park, the engine shut off and my foot taken off the brake than any other car I have ever driven. If I forget to engage the parking brake quite tightly, the car will roll forward quite a few inches before the parking pawl holds it, even on the level. I've been told both by the dealership shop and the independent mechanic shop that there is no problem and that this particular engine/transmission combination tends to do this although my particular car seems to do so somewhat worse than average.
ACTIONS TAKEN SO FAR:
1) Have made an appointment to take the car into the mechanic.
2) Will check the transmission fluid level per instructions in the owner's manual tomorrow when I have daylight to see what the fluid level and color on the stick looks like.
NOTE:
1) I periodically check the transmission fluid level and it has never been low or discolored. The shop checked it for me, along with making sure everything else was road trip worthy, for an emergency 1,000 round trip in late November, just three months ago. No problems then.
2) No evidence on the garage floor of any leakage. Garage floor is dry.
QUESTIONS:
1) I presume the first step is for the mechanic to check the fluid level and examine for any leaks?
2) If the mechanic cannot duplicate the problem in a test drive, then what?
3) If the problem cannot be duplicated and no apparent cause found, I presume that the prudent course of action is to go ahead and have standard transmission maintenance done (i.e. drop the pan, check for debris, drain and replace with fresh fluid) then see if that halts the slippages?
4) Given that this car has already had failures of the power steering pump, water pump, and part of the wiring harness, and has a fuel pump starting to get noisy, despite aggressively maintaining all standard/preventive maintenance, that perhaps it is time to think of replacing this car, especially if there proves to be any truly major transmission problem found?
My 2000 Chevy Cavalier LS has approximately 216,000 miles on it. I've recently noticed on long drives that the air conditioner will run fine for the first few hours, but then the amount of air begins to decrease, until the output from the "high" setting acts like I have it set on "low", and then almost quits altogether. What little air is coming out is still cool, so it's not a problem with the freon. If I shut off the a/c for awhile, everything works fine again upon restart, but then the same problem occurs. I have the same problem when using the heater, so I think it's related to the blower motor, resistor, fuse, etc., but don't know where to start troubleshooting first.
View 7 Replies1992 Chevy Cavalier, about 120,000 miles. A few months ago my car has started to rumble and vibrate while idling in drive. It only occurs while I'm in drive and completely stopped. If I change to neutral or park, it immediately goes away. Also, if I'm in drive, keep my foot on the brake and give it a little gas, the vibration goes away. I've changed the spark plugs, had the throttle body cleaned (not very thoroughly) and my mechanic said my engine mounts look fine and to not worry too much about it. Is this a problem I can ignore as an inconvenience or should I put more effort into getting this fixed?
View 2 RepliesThe car is 1985 Chevrolet Cavalier with automatic transmission.I had the engine stall several times and I coasted sometimes for a quarter of a mile with the transmission in gear. Can this cause damage to transmission?Later on I wised up and moved the shifter to neutral when the engine stalled.When I coasted in gear, I was getting some vibration that smoothed out when I put it in neutral.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2001 Cavalier 5-speed manual 2.2. I have owned it for every day and every mile (204K) since I bought it new in April of 2001. I have had many mechanical disasters and problems mostly starting a couple of years ago - and a lot of them I have worked on or fixed and/or replaced the part myself.
The transmission fluid in this car has never been changed, looked-at, drained, added, etc....because I was told that it didn't need it. The manual says the same thing. For as long as I've had this car, it has had a intermittent rattle noise that I figured was just the "Getrag rattle" - so I didn't pay much attention to it. But over the past year - especially the last 6 months - this rattle has just gotten totally insane and out of control. It is now a constant loud rattle whenever the car is in gear - especially starting out in 1st or 2nd. I mentioned this to someone and they asked when the last time the fluid was changed and said that would fix the problem - and couldn't believe that the fluid had never been changed after 15 years and 200K miles.
This model has no dipstick. There is a big red vent cap and I think I found a HEX plug close to it, but before I go out and buy the wrong size hex key - what size these are and if they are even what I am looking for to fill/check/drain it? So frustrated. Also - since I can't find DEXRON 3 anywhere am I supposed to use this DEX/Mercon stuff?
I have a 2005 Cavalier (60,000 miles) that's been having some transmission slipping in the cold weather. As the weather has warmed up, the issue has lessened but not quite gone away. We added a little transmission fluid, but I haven't yet had a chance to replace the fluid/filter. The check engine light has been on in my car since I've owned it... the shop I bought it from replaced the solenoid, but the code still hung around. Everything I've googled tells me that the issue could be the wiring or could be the solenoid needing replacing. My real question is... how soon do I need to act on this? p0741 p2761
View 4 RepliesCar won't start after filling up with gas. I have tried a new fuel filter, new gas tank cap, checked for pressure on fuel pump. We have gottenit to start (but barely) when either hit gas tank with hammer or shake the back of the car, otherwise you have to set and wait 15-30 minutes before it will start and when it does it smells very weird (like it's flooded but an extra strange smell with it). I have seen a similar posting on here and someone suggested it might be a purge value problem. In talking with someone at auto store they didn't think this was the issue. I do have my check engine light on all the time and when checked the code , it said oxygen sensor. My two other Cavaliers have also had the oxygen sensor problem but it never did this with that code.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier. I am having some issues with it.
When it first starts it idles really hard. The RPMs are up and if will try to accelerate without hitting the gas. This stops after the first minute.
The second part is that when stopped, but in drive, it idles hard. It does it though when the AC is turned off. You can see the RPM gauge go above and below the normal 500 RPM. If you turn the AC on then it levels out. It will occasionally idle hard with the AC on, but rarely and not as much.
The car drives well and is not overheating.
I have a 2006 Chevy cobalt and am currently stranded with my husband. Last night as we were about to head home from visiting family 3hrs away, we got off at an exit and as we were stopping about to go again because the light turned green, the car stalled. We had to start it a bunch of times just to get it to the nearest gas station about an eighth of a mile down the road. The message on the dashboard said "engine power reduced". We looked up that message online and a few posts said to disconnect the battery. We did that a few times but when we went to go, it kept doing what it did before, stalling. We were almost to the road and decided we weren't going to make it so we put it in reverse and it drove just fine back to a parking spot. Why it would stall idling and in drive but not in reverse? We are baffled and currently waiting on a tow.
View 3 RepliesSo i went to put my car in gear and the clutch is loose. car turns on just fine. there is clutch fluid. I've never had this problem till this cold weather popped up.what do i do? wait till the car warms up? I can put it in gear when the car is off so idk why it does that.
View 8 RepliesLately my 2004 Chevrolet Cavalier will overflow gas when filling up completely. It does not make a difference where or what type of pump is used. The auto shut off on the pump clicks and stops the gas. Then 1-2 seconds later gas spewes out of the filler hole. Putting about a half gallon or more of gas on the car and on the ground. What changed and how to fix it? The GM dealership doesn't know and neither do other shops. Here's a video : [URL] ....
View 10 RepliesLast week my car started making a rattling noise whenever I turned it on and when I went over bumps or potholes in the road. It sounded like it was coming from the trunk latch or something. It also started squeaking- I knew it wasn't my breaks because I wasn't using my brakes when the squeaking happened. I finally realized my muffler is jiggling around, so I crawled under my car to check it out. There's a part on the left of the muffler right by the rear tire that connects the muffler to the under side of the car. It looks like something is missing- rubber or something that holds the pieces of metal there. Is this something I can find and fix myself? Or do I need to go to a mechanic? I was going to zip-tie it up, but there's not really anything to loop it through. Will my car be further damaged if I don't fix it soon? (2004 Chevy Cavalier)
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 Chev Cavalier with a 2.2. Ecotec OHC. Lately the car has started to stagger on acceleration. Particularly when going up hill. The weird thing is, it only does it after it's been running for 10 or 15 minutes. Up until that time it runs smoothly. But when it happens it feels like the engine bucks. Or hiccups. If I stomp on the gas the car will either stall or kick in and overcome this. When I'm driving down the road at a steady speed, or when I'm sitting still the engine will buck in the same fashion. Not steadily--intermittently. Once or twice every fifteen seconds. But it's getting progressively worse.
Now if I launch out of an intersection the car might even stall. When this happens I just turn the key and she fires right up again as if nothing happened. No "Check Engine Light" or trouble codes showing up in my Scangauge. I replaced the fuel filter just as a preliminary measure but that didn't solve the problem. I had the fuel pump replaced a few months ago as well but that ws before this problem occurred. No other parts or pieces replaced. Fuel pressure regulator? Spark plugs? Injectors?
Like I said, 04 cavalier automatic.. Bought it used over 200thousand miles, but in PERFECT SHAPE, engine is beautiful.. No leaks that I could tell from the ground. Just put on new rotors & breaks,.. Now the problem.. under neath my petals sounds like doo doo doo doo, like a really big fan, & Its hard to accelerate at 35-55mph.. When i do it has to like catch up with itself, as if not going into 2nd gear.
I know nothing about cars, so I am describing the best i can.. Its also been sucking gas like crazy.. but no leaks? All my lights are lit up.. ABS trac off, service, & check engine. One guy said the noise is someone impacted on my aluminum rims too tight & they could be bent, it was very hard for him to get my tire off to change rotors..
My 99 Tahoe has started making a weird like clank noise when I shift into drive or reverse. It also has a light shake which was only if I took a sharp turn, but is becoming a little more common.
View 10 RepliesIt looks like the door jamb switch no longer pops open so I am wondering how in the world do I replace it? Someone suggested grabbing pliers and just pulling on it till the tabs break off and it comes out. Is this the correct way? This is a 2004 Chevy Cavalier and some of the symptoms of my problems include the radio not turning off when you open the door after getting out of the car. Nor do the dome lights come on when I open the door to get in.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier with 113k miles. It is having problems starting. If it's sat for a while 10-15 minutes it's starting rough or in most cases needing me to press the gas pedal to get it started. I have replaced the fuel filter and used some fuel system cleaner to what appears no avail. I can hear the fuel pump turn on at startup, so not sure if that's the culprit.
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