I have a 1997 chevy cavalier, 69000 miles. It runs great BUT, when it gets below 35degrees, it will turn over and over but not stay running. After many attempts, maybe for an hour, it will stay running. Regular maintenance, and cold weather maintenance have been applied. New battery and cables. I took it to the shop and they could not find anything wrong.
View 2 RepliesMy car began to not start almost every other time i tried to start without being jumped and now will not start at all without being jumped. the battery won't stay charged and I bought the battery brand new 6 months ago.
1987 chevy cavalier, over 100,000 miles....
I've been fighting this almost a month now.2.2L Engine.
The engine turns over, but want start.
We have fuel pressure (55psi) and a spark.
Sprayed ether in the intake -- nothing.
Changed the crankshaft positioning sensor. Put a simple scanner on it, it stated no errors or faults could be found.
Tried another ignition module, checked the PCM fuse and ignition module fuse, both look fine.
Installed an anti-theft system bypass and followed the reset instructions. Didn't fix.
Just for fun we changed the spark plugs as well.
Now, the person I was with who saw the spark (I was inside the car) says the spark looked "weak" to him. Is this possible?
I drive a 2003 Chevy Cavalier with approximately 75,000 miles on it, and it has always run exceptionally well. However, during the last couple of months it has developed what I would consider a lower-pitched "whine" or "groan" emanating from the front of the car when making a turn. Here are a few specifics:
-The noise is more pronounced on tighter turns and/or when moving at a faster speed. For example, doing a U-turn causes the noise to be very pronounced; turning into a parking space at a very low speed barely creates any noticeable noise at all.-The noise seems to be worse when making a left turn than when making a right turn, however turning either direction can create the noise.-The noise seems to have gotten slightly more pronounced over time--that is, it doesn't seem to have been triggered by a single event such as running over a pothole.
I am not particularly well-versed in diagnosing car problems, particularly when it involves anything to do with the drive train (which is what I suspect here). Some rudimentary internet research seems to point towards a damaged or failing CV joint in one of the front wheels, although this has not been properly diagnosed. Thus, my questions are as follows:
-What is the likely source of the noise? Is a damaged CV joint the most likely explanation, or is this explainable in other ways?-How serious of a problem is this? If indeed it is the CV joint, my understanding is that this is an issue that needs to be addressed promptly as it could quickly become a dangerous situation (some reports indicate that the wheel(s) might come off while driving).
I have a 1998 chevy cavalier, 4 door, 2.2 liter SOHC, which has been running hot for a while now. readings are off the dash guage, here's the scenario. on startup from cold, the temperature begins to rise within 60 seconds, reaching what i consider normal operating temperature within three to five minutes, at approximately the "NO" in " NORMAL" on the gauge.
It reaches what has become it's usual operating temperature, at "RM" within another minute or two. If i am in stop and go traffic, the temperature will rapidly reach the final mark after the "L", but not the red zone. If I get on the highway, the temperature will reduce back to the "RM" position within one to two minutes, three to four minutes in steady traffic at lower speeds, i.e. 35 and all green lights. Thermostat has been replaced, water pump has been replaced, electric cooling fan is running correctly, radiator is free and clear of debris.
When I first got the car back in 2000, it ramped up to heat much more slowly, and hung out at "NO" in all types of traffic. in 2004 i went and picked up my car from my father's place, he had taken it to the local shop and had it given the once over, which is when this problem began showing up, and has gotten progressively worse over the years. I've gotten nowhere with other mechanics, the system is leak free, and the coolant tests good.
I drive a 97' Chevy cav', I have recently noticed that I have an oil leak. There isn't a puddle under the car yet but when I look under the car there is oil on two metal lines by the radiator. I assuming that they are the oil cooler lines. the location is on the driver side under the battery, by the radiator and closest to the bumper. Does this sound like its the oil cooler lines or is it something else?How do I repair this?How soon should I get it repaired?
View 9 RepliesI have a 97 Chevy Cavalier, 2.2 ltr, that started giving me problems last week. I was going to leave the house and got a bout 50 ft before I heard a "tink" noise and it died. It won't start now. I have checked everything that I can think of. It's not a rod or anything like that. It has to be something really simple. It will turn over, just can't seem to start.
View 6 RepliesThe window just stopped working. Everything was fine, then all of a sudden it quit! What could it be and how can I fix it? I checked for a fuse, everything appears ok. Its 1997 Cavalier. Its 15°F here and it would be nice to not have to drive with the window down.
View 19 RepliesI just bought a 1982 Chevy c10 305 small block.It had an oil leak so i began putting new valve cover gaskets, and then New Valve Covers(Edelbrock). Because the covers were taller, I had to remove the EGR valve and bend a new fuel line.There was a plate i installed inside the valve cover where the PVC goes into? is this a problem?I noticed the hose from the distributor rotor button(vacuum?) was not connected to anything.I plan on putting a EGR blocker plate, but was told it wasn't needed to run.
So now it starts up but will not stay running idle. Do i need an EGR blocker to run?IS that plate needed inside the Valve Cover?Does the hose from the Distributor rotor need to be connected?
ran fine the day before, fuelled up that night, next morning it did this. cleaned the IAC, tried a different TPS, cleaned mass air flow sensor. check vacuum lines. put couple bottles of gas line anti freeze in.
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Got a buddy with a 98 white f150 with the 5.4 motor. It will start up and idle fine but if you try to drive it it has no power what so ever. What it could be?
View 2 RepliesMy brother's truck is a 1997 , 5.7 L gas engine, fuel injected. 100k+ miles.
New plugs, wires, new rotor, coolant temp sensor & air filter & recent battery.
Started a few times after the new air filter & some dry gas & fuel injector cleaner & that was the last time it started.
Turns over but will not run! He needs this truck to tow a trailer to R/C boat shows (he makes parts for R/C racing boats).
This truck has been running fine then as my son was getting off the interstate it started acting like it was running out of gas then died. I went to tow him in and it cranked right up and never had another problem for a week. Yesterday he drove 80 miles away when the same thing happened shortly after he got off the interstate. He replaced the fuel filter which it probably needed but still won't start and stay running. It cranks right up the immediately dies.
First time this happened it was throwing codes PO171 and PO174. Now it is not showing any DTC's at all and none pending. We see no frayed or bad wires and all vacuum hoses seem fine. He cleaned the MAF with no change in behavior.... If it were an outboard motor or some kind of boat I'd say the problem is in the ignition switch except it does run a very short time before dying. If I immediately try to restart it won't stay running. If I let it sit for a while then it will run for about a half minute.
2000 XLT ext cab 4.6 4x4 auto .. Having a couple of problems in below freezing weather when temps are below 30 deg F.
1. I have the usual P/S whine, but when starting up a cold engine, the whine is extremely loud and the motor won't stay running. It starts and immediately dies. I have to give it a little gas to keep it running. It only takes a few seconds until the whine dies down, then it idles fine. Should I just replace the P/S pump or is there something else I need to look at?
2. Again, with a cold engine, when I start driving, the OD light on the column shifter flashes. It flashed for quite a while. The tranny worked fine, though. No problems shifting. I was told that I have to have the dealer read the code and it can only be done when its flashing. Is this true? I'd rather not spend the $$ if its something I can take care of myself. I did change the tranny filter and that worked some. Now the light flashes for about 2-3 minutes then it goes away.
Like I said, these problems are only on days when its below freezing and once the truck is warm, everything works fine.
My friends cavalier stopped running about a week ago. It is a 98 with the 2.2 liter. When she turns the key you can hear the starter kick out but it wouldn't turn the engine. I figured it was the starter solenoid, but just to play it safe I took the starter off and had it tested. the starter passed. I put it back on but I left the flywheel cover off, I had her turn the key and you can see the flywheel turn a little bit, so I am pretty sure the starter is fine. I am not sure where to go from here, everything seems to be working fine but the engine just wont crank. I can turn the engine by hand so it doesn't seem like its stuck.
View 5 RepliesMy car dies when I come to a stop unless I gently press on the gas pedal while holding done the brake. What can cause this?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 Pontiac Sunfire 2.4L 4 door (AT) with 132K miles on it. I have been having a little bit of difficulty for a year or so with the key not always wanting to turn without jiggling it a bit, since I've had cars before with this issue, I just fiddle with it till it turns.
A few weeks ago, I turned it on, and though the engine was running, it prevented me from shifting out of park, then I noticed that even though the engine was running, the AC wasn't working, and the gauges were not working. I even revved the engine a bit to make sure that my ears were not fooling me with the engine running, discussed it a bit with my husband (in passenger seat), then turned it off. While discussing whether we should get his keys to take his car, then I tried it again. It turned over, ran just fine and I forgot about it as a one-off anomaly. (Note: I never keep more than 4 keys and a few plastic key fobs for the grocery stores on my key ring, because I don't want the weight to mess up the ignition. I have a second key ring for my work keys that is kept separate.)
Last Friday, I'm getting ready to come home to start my one week vacation, and it did it again. So, I turned it off, waited a couple seconds, and tried to start it again. I saw the "Theft Deterrent" light on the dashboard and tried to turn the ignition off. It wouldn't turn off at all. It stayed running the whole hour until the tow truck showed up, and I gave myself a blister trying to get the ignition to turn off.
I verified is the system in my car here
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MODEL YEAR(S): SUNFIRE 2000 -2003
KEY: N/A
T-HARNESS: GM-7
IMMOBILIZER: GM's PASSLOCK 2 ANTI-THEFT System, Requires: 791 Bypass Module
The tow truck driver pulled the fuel pump fuse to get the car to shut off, which occurred to me just about the same time that she did it. Then she disconnected the shifter linkage, so it could be put in neutral to tow it. As it was now 10PM by the time I got home, all I was worried about was running the battery down since it was still "on". I disconnected the battery and came in to wait til the morning to start researching.
Now, I discover that I should not have disconnected the battery. I wonder if it could be the magnet inside the ignition that is preventing it from turning off. It did feel like there was something inside preventing it from inserting completely and possible for the key to be pulled out while in the on position.
Because of the airbag, I'm very reluctant to try to replace the ignition switch myself. I know when I'm in over my head, and this is one of those times.
Car won't start after filling up with gas. I have tried a new fuel filter, new gas tank cap, checked for pressure on fuel pump. We have gottenit to start (but barely) when either hit gas tank with hammer or shake the back of the car, otherwise you have to set and wait 15-30 minutes before it will start and when it does it smells very weird (like it's flooded but an extra strange smell with it). I have seen a similar posting on here and someone suggested it might be a purge value problem. In talking with someone at auto store they didn't think this was the issue. I do have my check engine light on all the time and when checked the code , it said oxygen sensor. My two other Cavaliers have also had the oxygen sensor problem but it never did this with that code.
View 9 RepliesHad a directional bulb go out recently and replaced it without any problem. About 3 days ago it went again, I bought a 2 pack of bulbs - replaced it and drove on. Almost instantly right after I turned and signaled the right directional bulb blew again, I grabbed the extra bulb put it into plug and started car - first right turn with directional bulb blows again. I'm at a loss as to where this can be happening. Is this in the steering column or elsewhere, where do I even begin to look.
View 3 RepliesMy daughter says that the AC on her 2001 Chevy Cavalier cuts off when she is idling.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier. I am having some issues with it.
When it first starts it idles really hard. The RPMs are up and if will try to accelerate without hitting the gas. This stops after the first minute.
The second part is that when stopped, but in drive, it idles hard. It does it though when the AC is turned off. You can see the RPM gauge go above and below the normal 500 RPM. If you turn the AC on then it levels out. It will occasionally idle hard with the AC on, but rarely and not as much.
The car drives well and is not overheating.