Chevrolet - Caprice :: 1994 - Leaking Coolant From Heater Hose?
Nov 17, 2011
The leak looked like it was coming from a heater hose. The individual I bought it from said he fixed it and it wasn't leaking the day I bought it. Upon driving it home...cranked the heat up and windows fogged, switched to defog with no luck. Added some coolant and still the same thing and leak began again.
It smells like antifreeze inside and fog has oily feeling when wiping it off the window. Got in on the lift and no luck seeing where it was leaking from, even with it running. My previous experience with bad heater cores is that it leaks on the inside and smells like coolant... is it leaking on the outside or is it something else?
It's NOT overheating or blowing any kind of smoke. Temp gauge read normal! It's a 4.3L, 1994 Caprice LS .....
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For the last couple of years, I've noticed the air flow changes from the floor to the defroster under hard acceleration. Not a big deal. This morning (7 degrees) the airflow was changing under light to moderate acceleration. It's a vacuum problem, but is there anything in particular I should be looking at? The car is running fine, no issues with stalling or hesitation.
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So I am on my way home after an honest 8, and I make it a mile down the road and goose the old girl a little off a stop light. Well next thing I know we have smoke rolling out under the hood, well it turns out the "smoke" was r134 refrigerant. The guy that recharged it said that the compressor failed and that its common with retrofits because 134a runs at a higher pressure.
Now I don't need a/c, and I might just leave it as is, but it would be nice to have the old girl working 100%. It also turns out that the front seal of the transmission is leaking, I am debating whether or not to just have the transmission rebuilt. it shifts fine but its gotta come out anyway. Its a 700r4 and the trans guy recommends stronger 3-4 clutches and a shift kit to make the holding pressure higher.
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I have been encountering issues with my heater not providing hot air when the engine is idling. My Elantra has around 121K miles on it. I have not replaced the thermostat, water pump, timing belt, radiator, radiator hoses, or done any coolant flushes.
I checked the overflow reservoir and radiator. I didn't see coolant at top of the radiator so I topped it off as well as the reservoir. It seemed to have fixed the issue for now but I had this similar issue about 5-6 months back. I also topped off the coolant and things have been fine until now.
I checked the hoses and squeezed them to see if I could see any notable leaks but didn't see anything. I checked the overflow reservoir tank and line and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I also checked the top of radiator to visually inspect for any notable cracks but didn't find anything. Also to note, the coolant inside the overflow bottle was bright green and not discolored.
I did however notice a lot of white chalky residue on the bypass hose below the upper radiator hose and the engine block. My guess is that my upper radiator hose is slowly leaking? Leaking in the thermostat assembly? And I also noticed a tiny puddle of coolant below the lower radiator hose at the engine block. See the pics below.
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Wanting to no what the inlet and outlet ports for heater hoses on a chevy 350. I have a air gap intake with the the four water hoses 2 in the front and to in the back and of course the one on the water pump.
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How to identify this 'leaking' coolant hose? (cooler hose?), I took a picture with my cell ... It shows a stainless steel coolant line with calcified Dried/heater coolant residue on the outside, and I noticed it was leaking coolant (using a periscope mirror )...
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Found a tee on the heater hose leaks when it warms up. Appears the PO had noticed it but put a hose over it and now is leaking around behind the valve cover. This is a hard plastic line around 5/16. No online parts show it as being available. Is there a fix for this ?
I would bet several others have had this problem as it lays right on top of the flange of the valve cover where I think it would rub a hole pretty quick.
1989 Ranger 4X4 4 cylinder....
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On the manifold there is a metal/steel pipe that the heater hose hooks to. That pipe is leaking anitifreeze. It has a small hole in it. Is this pipe replaceable or is it part of the manifold.
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2001 F250- V10... Lower radiator hose has coolant leaking - Right now I cannot tell if its the hose or the radiator itself (hoping not) - I tried to take the clamp off and it broke - Any tricks to removing the hose? its on there pretty tight.... I guess if I don't want to save the hose I can rip it off with a pair of pliers but before I do that wasn't sure.
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My truck has a 6 o powerstroke. I noticed some coolant loss, which I've been monitoring since I had the truck studded 2 years ago. Today I was looking around trying to find a cause of the coolant loss and I noticed some crusty orange residue on a hose that runs under the coolant reservoir. The hose seems to go behind the valve covers along the firewall to the passenger side through a steel line, and then go in a loop back to itself?
I'm guessing it's for the heater core, but I didn't see where it actually goes into the heater core, or anything else for that matter. It is a molded hose that has one of those crimped transitions into the steel line, so I'm not sure if patching it is an option or if I should look at replacing the whole piece. I'm guessing it's going to be expensive. From the fact that it never failed before, I'm thinking it wasn't originally routed with it touching the valve cover and was just something that happened after having the body off during the stud install.
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I just got my 337 a few days ago and I got out today after a short drive and smelled coolant. Immediately thought the worst but luckily I found this hose to be leaking. What hose this is its on the left side just about the throttle.
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I'm about to tear into a friends 2002 B2300 4 cyl. The lower hose that comes off of the coolant reservoir is leaking in the metal part of the line. Close to where it bolts to the block. At a glance, it looks like I have to pull the whole top of the motor apart to get it off since the line runs around behind the motor. Is there a trick to removing this coolant line without a lot of teardown? I'm not finding it at parts stores so I guess it's a stealership part.
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On my way home from work, after driving about 45 minutes, I stopped at the Post Office. On the way out I noticed that coolant was leaking. I was able to make it home without overheating. My guess was either the water pump or a hose.
This morning I physically checked the hoses and they seemed fine. I filled the radiator with water and started the van and let it run until it got hot. I watched to see if I could tell where the leak came from. I could not get it to leak, after 15 minutes I gave up. I know it was leaking yesterday, not only did I see green coolant, the radiator was low on coolant.
What should I do to further diagnose the problem?
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I have a 1994 Chevy S10 truck. I been having some problems with it.I was having transmission issues with it (I posted on that one before) , but now it has started leaking oil and I would like to know why. The color of the oil in the oil leak is dark brown and oil gauge is giving me odd readings. For example, when I start the truck the oil gauge says it is half full (40), but it warms up and I am in stop and go traffic it drops to 20. But, If I step on the gas the reading goes back to 40 again for a while and then drops back down again. I thinking about just getting a different truck because this one is becoming a pain to fix, but I would still like to know what could be wrong with it.
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I am talking about those two hoses going into the firewall by my Blower Motor assembly that may be leaking and wanted to know if i can bypass or plug up these two hoses, since i no longer have ARA A/C and heater.
1986 140 CID GAS Ford Ranger 2.3, 5-speed manual
After market ARA A/C - No longer working
Blower motor heating coil element caught on fire - heater no longer working either.
Most days, before I drive somewhere, even just a few miles or less, I have to put in a little coolant, about one or two cups, So I know there is a leak coming from somewhere, it's just not visible, but strangely dripping from my right side front fender wall, just below the air filter, seems strange. Did not see any tiny leaks from my radiator.
What I have done was to check hoses from the radiator to the engine and noticed no leaks. Is there anything else I could do without a major repair? I even used that stop leak a while ago, but that didn't work.
A few days later.. Ok, when I got home today, I noticed antifreeze dripping from that shield over the right side passengers wheel well. I crawled underneath and on the other side of the tire, and did not see anything as the source. I would think that it would be in the area of the radiator, either upper or lower hoses, or that short hose to the block near the water pump. I will check the heater core hoses going from engine area into Firewall again. But I did not see anything leaking from that right side firewall. I have an aftermarket ARA AC, bit that hasn't worked for years.
If the leak is not coming from the head gasket, upper or lower radiator hoses, or those two hoses going into the firewall, where else could it be coning from? Very strange it's not anywhere near the radiator or engine, but on the right side passenger's side, above the tires wheel well. Some have said it has to be from either those two heater core water hoses going into the firewall.
I have neither a working air conditioner (after marker ARA) or a working heater (leaves found their way from the outside hood vents into the Blower motor and EVAP core and the heating element caught some leaves on fire and burned mostly everything inside this box. I have not replaced that, nor would I at this point,but just want to fix the leak)
A friend suggested that I could just BYPASS the water hoses going into the firewall....is this plausible? Do I do next to the inlet/outlet hoses bt the water pump. or somewhere else?
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I am working on my buddy's 1994 Ranger with a 2.3L I4 that has been going thru a large amount of engine coolant. The trucks has approximately 180,000 miles on it. When I had it parked on concrete I have not seen any signs of coolant on the concrete or any signs of coolant leaking. The next place I checked was inside the cab to see if there was any coolant from the heater core and there was not. The water pump has been replaced a couple of years back. I replaced the spark plugs today and did not see anything on the plugs that I would have thought were signs of coolant in the combustion chambers.
With that being said I have not worked on a vehicle with a leaking head gasket before. Would there be any visible signs on the sparks plugs? If so what would I be looking for? When standing in front of the vehicle with the engine running there is a slight smell of antifreeze being "vaporized". Are there any noted issues with this engine that would cause this? Are there any other things I should check? Could it be a leaking head gasket causing this? If so how can I check for that?
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The problem started when his heater core was leaking coolant and it dripped all the way down to his original ECU. Car stopped working. Then he went to a Hyundai dealer to fix the problem but they said he had to buy a brand new one. First ECU didn't work. Returned it and bought one more expensive. Dad told me it worked but he didn't by pass the heater core so coolant dripped again. So now I'm on my third ECU but it doesn't work. I've read online that some older cars have plug-and-play type of ECUs that aren't restricted to the VINs. His car is a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS FWD 4dr 3.5L.
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I just purchased an 97 E350 (15 Passenger) and I notice that the two rear heater lines (along the driver side) are rotted and is showing sign of minor leakage. Can I simply replace them with rubber heater hoses or do I need to get the factory heater lines?
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Bought my Ranger brand new, and I try to maintain it well. Most of the 90,000 miles are highway. Anyway, the OEM coolant was supposed to be good for 100K miles, but since I hadn't done anything in 89K, i have a lengthy commute and the coolant was getting discolored, I figured that no harm would come in having a drain/refill. This was approx. The heat worked flawlessly. Fast forward two weeks, and my local shop performed an oil change (not the quick lube that did the coolant replacement). I was informed of three things:
1) my coolant was low,
2) my heater control valve was leaking (which I was shown), and
3) when hoisted I was shown that a slight residue of coolant -- not necessarily fresh -- was on my water pump.
I was told that 'down the road sometime a water pump could be in my future'. Again, the heat worked flawlessly, and I didn't want to be out-and-about in winter and run out of coolant. So, the shop replaced my heater control valve and topped off the coolant (approx. 1/2 - 1 gallon). Heat worked flawlessly. The last couple days, I noticed two things.
First, heat trickles out on low and medium setting, and second, it takes a long time to warm the vehicle. So, my limited research tells me two things. If coolant is present, and I have heat (of some sort), then, the water pump and heater core are probably fine. Diagnosis says to check the thermostat first, correct?
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I got a caprice 94 l99 it was driving perfect. i was on my way home then it started to put put then the engine cut. gave it like 3 mins it started drove 1 block started to put then the engine cut. now doesnt start at all just cranks the gas gauge says it has 1/4 tank of gas.
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I am having problems with my 94 Caprice. It will start right up when cold. After driving for awhile (not too long) then engine cuts off. Electric power is on but the engine is off (like it ran out of gas, or the gas was shut off). At first, it would take a few minutes for the engine to restart. Now that I have replaced the Fuel Pump Relay, it will start right back up, but when driving it still cuts off.
Could it be the ECM? Where is it located? Is it a "do-it-yourself" job?
What other problems might it be (besides the fuel pump)? Could it be the power distribution box under the hood? I also have fog lamps hooked up to the panel that wont work. The switch light comes on but the lamps do not. I am going to try to hook the (+) up to the battery and see if the lamps get power, if so, the box is fried (or the stud) But if the main power distribution wasnt working would the car still run, start? If the stud is damaged would it cause the gas to shut off?
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