Chevrolet - Camaro :: Sputters And Refuses To Stay Started / Losing Acceleration When Try To Speed Up
Jan 26, 2013
I'm a single mom and really dependent on my car for my job and my kids... I have a 1995 Chevy Camaro 6-cylinder, and I am having engine problems... in the mornings, my car starts fine, but if I drive more than a few minutes and turn it off, she doesn't want to start up again. It turns over just fine, but it sputters and refuses to stay started. After a couple of tries, I can get it going, I rev the engine, and a cloud of dark smoke (not blue and smells like gasoline) comes out. I also smell gas strongly when the engine idles after everything smooths out. Sparkplugs, fuel filter, oil, air filter, belts, hoses, all have been replaced recently, catalytic converter is only four years old, and car has 178,000 miles on it. What I may be dealing with? I'm also losing acceleration/power when I try to speed up...
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I have a 2000 z28 Camaro, and I'm having problems with it slipping at high speed. and I noticed today that fluid is leaking and the car loses power as it warms up. it runs great starts right up, just having problems with the tranny. What may be going on, I do check the fluid and fill it when it needs it. and it runs great until I need to get up to around 50mph.
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My 2003 Avalanche (5.3L) suddenly started losing oil, 2 quarts since my last oil change (3,000 mi). There is no evidence of it leaking and no apparent smoking, so when I went to get my oil changed today I was telling my mechanic about it. They couldn't find any evidence of a leak either. Then when the pulled the fill plug on the transfer case fluid poured out, a lot of fluid. They are the only ones that service this vehicle so we were puzzled as to how it could be overfilled, especially by so much. Then I got to thinking, the engine has lost about two quarts of oil and the transfer case has mysteriously gained a bunch, possibly two quarts. So the question is, is it possible that the engine oil is somehow moving into the transfer case?
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I have a 2004 Chevy Trailblazer that looses acceleration. If I have the cruise control on it will the speed will decrease and then accelerate on level pavement. At idle the car runs fine. Could this be a fuel filter problem, an air flow problem or something else? Also the service light is on. I had it checked and the technician told me that the oxygen sensor on the exhaust needed to be replaced. I did that and the light is still on.
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I have a 2016 350 dually with 6.7, with 2,200 miles. I was pulling my 11,000 LB travel trailer on fairly level ground, major interstate going 65mph. Noticed I started losing speed down to about 58mph, then started decending a long 5-6% grade, at this point I was running at 3/4 throttle to maintain speed. It felt like something was binding like the rear or engine was seizing up. No codes, all temps were fine. Transmission stayed in 6th gear, even at 3/4 throttle.
Checked trailer brakes, didn't seem to be dragging. Engine sounded like it was really laboring like it was tightening up. This lasted about 10 minutes, very slowly power seemed to return to normal but it was not noticeably changing. Fuel was 3/4, DEF was filled about 300 miles earlier. This truck since new feels like it has 150HP less than my 2011 F250 with the 6.7 I traded it on. Not sure what to do, if I take it back, if they find nothing then I'll get a diagnostic charge.
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My 2000 Chevy Astro van started having problems whenever I accelerate, hesitating losing speed, and all I can possible tie it to is a new gas station where I filled up which said "May contain ethanol". I think the "service engine light" flashed on for a second but does not stay on.
Could bad gas or the ethanol be the problem? Would getting the problem codes read at a parts place work?
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I have a 2003 Tahoe that I love but is driving me crazy with a "Reduced Engine Power" message. I am driving along and suddenly it dings at me, the message center says "reduced engine power" and I am losing speed. It goes into a "limp mode" in which I cannot accelerate, it cannot pull itself up a hill, and the engine misses badly. I can pull over, shut it off for a couple of minutes and then start it up and run again just fine until it decides to do it again.
There seems to be no rhyme or reason, one day it did it 4 times w/n the first 20 miles, then ran 100 miles w/o doing it at all. I recently took it on a trip that normally takes me 1 1/2 hours, it took 2 1/4 hrs that day because I had to pull over so many times. I was having to stop every 3-4 miles by the time I got there. My usual mechanic has completely given up, told me to trade it. I have had it to another mechanic for over a month now, 3 times he has thought it was fixed, but it wasn't. One time, I didn't even make it the 5 miles to my house before it acted up again.
One other note on this: this past trip I made, I left early in the morning and my lights were flickering high/low. . . this went on for several miles. Finally my lights quit flickering, then I lost engine power, pulled over, shut it off. When I started it back up, the lights started flickering again. The cycle seemed to continue, once the lights would settle, the engine would lose power. I took it to a parts store and had the battery and alternator checked. They said both were fine. (Had never noticed the light thing before, but I can't think of a recent trip after dark.) How I can pass along to my mechanic?
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Just a heads up to all MKIV GTI owners out there, new and old. If you feel like the tension on your clutch pedal is deteriorating get it checked earlier rather than later. Because if the slave cylinder malfunctions and leaks you will be faced with a big repair bill due to the fact that the slave cylinder is located inside the tranny. Secondly because of this design, which I think is very stupid, it leaks onto the clutch assembly and can get on your clutch plate. At that point you should replace the clutch plate to prevent any further damage that might be caused by slippage. The clutch plate should not come in contact with any fluids or it will compromise the functionality.
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I have a 2005 Nissan Altima with a SERVICE ENGINE light that refuses to stay off. Initially, upon hooking the car up to my mechanics computer, the code indicated a faulty crankcase sensor. I purchased the sensor and it was installed. I was then told to drive 30 or 40 miles at various speeds, stop and go traffic without shutting off the engine to reset the computer. This was done twice without success. The light remains on . The inspection was due in December and this is becoming very frustrating not to mention illegal to drive these 40 mile circuits. I have even disconnected the battery, reconnected (light off!), and drove ANOTHER 40 miles. The light stayed off while driving but came back on after restarting. 3 times , 2 different mechanics reset the cars computer with theirs. 4 different computers still diagnose a faulty crankcase sensor. The sensor has been replaced twice. Everyone is stumped and I really don't want to take the car to a dealer.
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What would cause a trouble code PO 300 on a 1998 Chevy Blazer. The truck will run good sometimes. When it runs bad it will stumble at low speed acceleration. It will run fine wide open. Dealer looked at it and thought it was egr vale. I replaced it and it runs a little better but still stumbles.
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Love the car, but in the last 2-3 three weeks it just randomly refuses to start. Turns over fine but seems like its not getting fuel. It is most likely a relay that needs replacing. This relay apparently controls the computer and the fuel pump. Maybe I'm just looking in the wrong place. I hardly dare drive my car anywhere now for fear It will not start when time to go home.
In the meantime, I seem to be able to get the faulty relay to function (if that really is the problem here), by making sure lights and radio are turned off, and by turning ignition key just one click (listening to be sure fuel pump has loaded the lines) before actually starting the car. No point in running battery low cranking engine over and over, waiting for that magic moment when the car suddenly starts like there was never any problem at all.
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I seem to have fixed all the other problems i was having except 1. I blew the head gaskets on my Z and it sat in the garage for about 2 months. Tore it apart and changed everything, now I have an issue when it runs for about a minute or so when i get on it, it bogs down and has terrible acceleration. I just changed the opti, coil, icm, oil pressure sender, new plugs. Engine light was on previously gave codes, 48 and 29. swapped out my MAS sensor... checked fuses and there was a bad one for the air pump, changed it and the ses light went off.... I am thinking a fuel filter needs replaced? I am at a loss here. It ran perfectly fine before i blew the gaskets. its a little rough at idle, but i had cut my cat off and ran 3" out the back to the flowmaster....
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I recently purchased for my son a 1986 camaro 2.8 MFI v6 the car had been sitting for over a year in the previous owner's back yard because it would not start.I have had a mechanic do the following: heads redone, replace the distributor, replace the timing chain and gears, new wires, and emptied the fuel tank and replaced the fuel filter.
I picked up the car and it ran for about two week no problem. Then it started diying occasionally when you let of the gas to come to a stop, so he replaced the fuel relay switch thinking that it may be going bad. The next day he had been driving it about 15 miles when it just died and would not restart. We shot a little starting fluid to see if we could get it to start and get it back home. it fired up and ran all the way home and died when turning into the driveway. and would not start again.
We replace the fuel regulator the car started right up and he took it for a test drive. The car ran about 4 miles, long enough to warm up and died again and would start. and again we were about to get it started with starting fluid to get it back home. pulled in the driveway and it dies. again it would not start, let it sit all night and the next morning still would not start finally got it to start with a squirt of starting fluid and moved it into the garage. shut if off and then tried to start it and it worked 5 times in a row.
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I have a 2000 Chevy Camaro. Two years ago my catalytic converter went out and I had it replaced. 20,000 miles later my mechanic says that I need to replace it again. Is this accurate? I thought the life of a Catalytic Converter was much longer.
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A year ago my 1998 chevy camaro 6 cyl eng. randomly did not start. Then came back to it 15 min later and it started right up and did not give me another problem.3 months ago it did the same thing, but then would go a week at least with no more trouble sometimes longer sometimes more frequent.
within this past month it has become very frequent and I have had to push start it with the clutch a few times to get to work. It starts right up when I pop the clutch every time. Now the car will not start with the key no matter what.
Some more details on what it does now - When I first get in it after it has sat a little while you can hear the starter solenoid click the first three times or so when I turn the key. After that you do not hear the solenoid click anymore, but the relay up under the hood clicks every time with the key. (for kicks I even swapped the starter relay and the ignition relay with no change)
The battery is fairly new, but I load checked it anyway and it is perfect, plus I tried another good battery and jumper cables from a battery in a running car so that's not the problem. I have cleaned all corrosion off terminals and the ground to the engine and to the car.
I checked the resistance of the little piece on each of two ignition keys and they check fine.
I have checked the clutch switch down by the pedal multiple ways. checked resistance of the switch, voltage when the key is on and jumpering the plug with a paper clip.
when I push start the car and have it running I can turn the key with the clutch out nothing happens, but if I push the clutch in the starter will engage (grind) every time (I didnt do this a lot). this tells me that the clutch switch is working and the started is working right?
I did switch the starter out with another used unit and it did the same thing.
I unhooked the alternator on the off chance a short in that was drawing too much juice and not giving enough to the starter (I know I am really reaching here).
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2000 Camaro, v6 auto, 103000 miles, 2 years ago car started making a roaring noise in the rear. the faster i go the louder it gets. if i let off the gas it almost goes away. at high speed over 90 the rear vibrates. noticed today that if i push on rear fender there is a clunking noise coming from rear wheel. checked lug nuts and they are tight. Is it unsafe to drive?
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I keep good maintenance for my car. Just had the 45,000 mile major tune up also. However, the engine overheating light came on the other day - said I should idle until it cooled down. I was just about to park, so I did that and left to do some shopping. When I came back and started the drive home the light came on again and indicated I should stop and turn the engine off. I drove two more blocks and put the car in the garage. I noticed what I thought was some leakage on the garage floor also. Next AM, I had it towed to the dealership since I'd checked the coolant dipstick and it looked EMPTY!. Dealership tested it out and could find nothing wrong - no leaks, no computer faults either. They sent me on my way and neither warning light has come on since. I've kept an eye on the engine temperature gauge and it hovers around 200F - mid range on the gauge. No further problems. Funny thing is, now my A/C seems to operate better!
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I have a 1979 Chevy Camaro and whenever I turn the car on so it only lights up my dash, my RPM gauge goes all over the place, and the engine isn't even turn on yet. And also before i even put the keys in the ignition, the RPM is sitting at 10.
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2002 Camaro SS. Been sitting in my garage and I have not started it for 2 months (I know, not smart). So I started it yesterday, it ran for about 20 seconds then just died and I cannot get it to restart. Battery is fully charged, it turns over, I can hear the injectors seemingly shoot fuel when I just turn the key into accessory mode, but when I try to start it, it just cranks like it's out of gas and never even gives the slightest hint of trying to turn over completely. There is a 1/4 tank gas, that is at least 2 years old in the car. Also, when it started the first time a ton of black stuff came out of the tail pipes.
Bad gas? Fuel pump? Not sure which path to go down first.
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I have a 1994 V6 Chevrolet Camaro with ~197K miles. Recently I have noticed that after starting the engine it idles rougher than normal and also as I accelerate, especially between 45 and 65 mph. Several things have just been replaced and/or fixed: spark plugs, spark plug cables, oil, coil packs, water pump, & thermostat. I regularly use premium gasoline and when for some reason a lower octane is used I add an octane booster. Since this problem arose I tried a fuel system cleaner; it hasn't worked thus far. The last time something like this happened, I took my Camaro to a trusted repair shop and when being diagnosed its' cylinder chambers and many different lines flooded with fuel. After replacing the fuel regulator my car returned to normal.
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I own a 1988 Camaro Iroc-Z with a 5.7 350 TPI motor. I was driving the car onto I-95 at a speed of 65 when I heard a loud boom under my car, and pulled over to see what had happened. I couldn't see what happened, so I drove the car slowly to a friends garage to find the exhaust pipe from the converter back to the muffler had split and blew apart. I took my car to another shop to repair the pipe, but when I left the shop after the repair, I accellerated to about 40 mile per hour, I get another loud backfire and loss of power. The pipe is still intact, but I cannot figure out what is causing the backfire. My friend from the first garage says it is a failing fuel pump. I never heard of such a thing to be honest.I am at a loss and I have to correct the issue soon, as this is my only car to drive.
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