Chevrolet - Camaro :: 1998 - Only 1 Tire Spins When Turning And Accelerating
Feb 8, 2016
I have a 98 camaro z28 and im having some problems with my rear end. I am positive its a limited slip. Ive removed the cover from differential and know what a lsd looks like. My problem is when i turn and hit the gas only 1 tire spins. But if im going straight and hit the gas both tires spins. When i say spin i mean break loose. I removed the cover tonight and took a look. No metal shavings at all. It all looks in good conditon. It has a 390 gear in it. Owner before me put it in. I removed the calipers and the axels have a little play in them. About a quarter inch play going in and out. Was wondering if this was normal. Also while it was jacked up i could hold one wheel while spinning the other. And if i play with it i can make the back left tire spin by its self also not making the ring gear move. Is it normal for a wheel to spin and the ring gear not move? I have a lot of questions about differentials. But mainly why am i only getting one tire to spin when turning?
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I have a 1994 V6 Chevrolet Camaro with ~197K miles. Recently I have noticed that after starting the engine it idles rougher than normal and also as I accelerate, especially between 45 and 65 mph. Several things have just been replaced and/or fixed: spark plugs, spark plug cables, oil, coil packs, water pump, & thermostat. I regularly use premium gasoline and when for some reason a lower octane is used I add an octane booster. Since this problem arose I tried a fuel system cleaner; it hasn't worked thus far. The last time something like this happened, I took my Camaro to a trusted repair shop and when being diagnosed its' cylinder chambers and many different lines flooded with fuel. After replacing the fuel regulator my car returned to normal.
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A year ago my 1998 chevy camaro 6 cyl eng. randomly did not start. Then came back to it 15 min later and it started right up and did not give me another problem.3 months ago it did the same thing, but then would go a week at least with no more trouble sometimes longer sometimes more frequent.
within this past month it has become very frequent and I have had to push start it with the clutch a few times to get to work. It starts right up when I pop the clutch every time. Now the car will not start with the key no matter what.
Some more details on what it does now - When I first get in it after it has sat a little while you can hear the starter solenoid click the first three times or so when I turn the key. After that you do not hear the solenoid click anymore, but the relay up under the hood clicks every time with the key. (for kicks I even swapped the starter relay and the ignition relay with no change)
The battery is fairly new, but I load checked it anyway and it is perfect, plus I tried another good battery and jumper cables from a battery in a running car so that's not the problem. I have cleaned all corrosion off terminals and the ground to the engine and to the car.
I checked the resistance of the little piece on each of two ignition keys and they check fine.
I have checked the clutch switch down by the pedal multiple ways. checked resistance of the switch, voltage when the key is on and jumpering the plug with a paper clip.
when I push start the car and have it running I can turn the key with the clutch out nothing happens, but if I push the clutch in the starter will engage (grind) every time (I didnt do this a lot). this tells me that the clutch switch is working and the started is working right?
I did switch the starter out with another used unit and it did the same thing.
I unhooked the alternator on the off chance a short in that was drawing too much juice and not giving enough to the starter (I know I am really reaching here).
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2002 Camaro SS. Been sitting in my garage and I have not started it for 2 months (I know, not smart). So I started it yesterday, it ran for about 20 seconds then just died and I cannot get it to restart. Battery is fully charged, it turns over, I can hear the injectors seemingly shoot fuel when I just turn the key into accessory mode, but when I try to start it, it just cranks like it's out of gas and never even gives the slightest hint of trying to turn over completely. There is a 1/4 tank gas, that is at least 2 years old in the car. Also, when it started the first time a ton of black stuff came out of the tail pipes.
Bad gas? Fuel pump? Not sure which path to go down first.
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I drive a '96 Infiniti I30, and recently the driver's side front wheel has started making a mysterious noise. It's not a grinding but a clicking/clanking noise. It's only present when I'm turning and accelerating. If I let off the gas it disappears. The other strange thing is that i can feel it in the gas pedal. I looked at some other discussions and the only thing that was similar was a bad CV joint. One last thing, if it is the CV joint how soon should i get it replaced?
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For the first time today, the passenger front tire resisted being turned. It was hard to turn. What might the problem be?
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1987 ford ranger loaned it out and they said the hub spins on the driver side but the tire won't engage so it has no 4 wheel drive. Soon as I get it back hopefully today will know more.
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Let me start by saying that I love my silly old Rabbit. Presently though I am irritated and confused by its new quirk. When starting it spins with out turning over. It sounds to me like it is not getting fuel. It also tends to backfire (or something else that causes a small amount of smoke). It does inevitably start and once it is running it seems fine. It got a full tuneup this spring, I have checked the fuel pump and replaced the fuel regulator. The problem persists. My present theory is that it has something to do with the ghost that lives in the wiring that recently made half of my instrument cluster dead, but that could and just be its own problem.
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V6. Have a new a/c compressor and drier/accumulator to install. The box the compressor came in says "THIS PART CONTAINS NO OIL."
I will be taking the car in to a shop to get the a/c charged after I replace those components. What do I need to do to ensure the pump isn't damaged from the time I install it until it gets to the shop (which is about 10 min away). Towing is not an option.
I know about the cans of oil that you put into the low end side of the a/c system, but there is no negative pressure, so not sure if that would work...
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First thing in the morning It seems to take a lot of turning over before it fires, but after it fires up it seems ok untill it sits for some time, Am I dealing with a fuel pump problem?
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How to reset the service engine soon light at home without hooking it up to a code reader. I've tried disconnecting the battery and that didnt work.
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I recently purchased for my son a 1986 camaro 2.8 MFI v6 the car had been sitting for over a year in the previous owner's back yard because it would not start.I have had a mechanic do the following: heads redone, replace the distributor, replace the timing chain and gears, new wires, and emptied the fuel tank and replaced the fuel filter.
I picked up the car and it ran for about two week no problem. Then it started diying occasionally when you let of the gas to come to a stop, so he replaced the fuel relay switch thinking that it may be going bad. The next day he had been driving it about 15 miles when it just died and would not restart. We shot a little starting fluid to see if we could get it to start and get it back home. it fired up and ran all the way home and died when turning into the driveway. and would not start again.
We replace the fuel regulator the car started right up and he took it for a test drive. The car ran about 4 miles, long enough to warm up and died again and would start. and again we were about to get it started with starting fluid to get it back home. pulled in the driveway and it dies. again it would not start, let it sit all night and the next morning still would not start finally got it to start with a squirt of starting fluid and moved it into the garage. shut if off and then tried to start it and it worked 5 times in a row.
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I have a 2000 Chevy Camaro. Two years ago my catalytic converter went out and I had it replaced. 20,000 miles later my mechanic says that I need to replace it again. Is this accurate? I thought the life of a Catalytic Converter was much longer.
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2000 Camaro, v6 auto, 103000 miles, 2 years ago car started making a roaring noise in the rear. the faster i go the louder it gets. if i let off the gas it almost goes away. at high speed over 90 the rear vibrates. noticed today that if i push on rear fender there is a clunking noise coming from rear wheel. checked lug nuts and they are tight. Is it unsafe to drive?
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I keep good maintenance for my car. Just had the 45,000 mile major tune up also. However, the engine overheating light came on the other day - said I should idle until it cooled down. I was just about to park, so I did that and left to do some shopping. When I came back and started the drive home the light came on again and indicated I should stop and turn the engine off. I drove two more blocks and put the car in the garage. I noticed what I thought was some leakage on the garage floor also. Next AM, I had it towed to the dealership since I'd checked the coolant dipstick and it looked EMPTY!. Dealership tested it out and could find nothing wrong - no leaks, no computer faults either. They sent me on my way and neither warning light has come on since. I've kept an eye on the engine temperature gauge and it hovers around 200F - mid range on the gauge. No further problems. Funny thing is, now my A/C seems to operate better!
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I have a 2000 z28 Camaro, and I'm having problems with it slipping at high speed. and I noticed today that fluid is leaking and the car loses power as it warms up. it runs great starts right up, just having problems with the tranny. What may be going on, I do check the fluid and fill it when it needs it. and it runs great until I need to get up to around 50mph.
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I have a 1979 Chevy Camaro and whenever I turn the car on so it only lights up my dash, my RPM gauge goes all over the place, and the engine isn't even turn on yet. And also before i even put the keys in the ignition, the RPM is sitting at 10.
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I own a 1988 Camaro Iroc-Z with a 5.7 350 TPI motor. I was driving the car onto I-95 at a speed of 65 when I heard a loud boom under my car, and pulled over to see what had happened. I couldn't see what happened, so I drove the car slowly to a friends garage to find the exhaust pipe from the converter back to the muffler had split and blew apart. I took my car to another shop to repair the pipe, but when I left the shop after the repair, I accellerated to about 40 mile per hour, I get another loud backfire and loss of power. The pipe is still intact, but I cannot figure out what is causing the backfire. My friend from the first garage says it is a failing fuel pump. I never heard of such a thing to be honest.I am at a loss and I have to correct the issue soon, as this is my only car to drive.
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My '97 camaro has a cracked cylinder. (or something like that; the water keeps getting "consumed" by the engine). my mechanic put something in it that temporarily "sealed" the crack. it bought me more time but now it's not holding on to any water. My question is, can i do this again and is it something i can do myself?
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The owner's manual for my 2010 Camaro states that the passenger seat height can be adjusted by pumping the handle used to slide the seat forward and backward. However, pumping the handle does not change the seat height.
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I recently bought a 1991 Pontiac Firebird Formula 5.7L TPI with 124k. We was driving it home when noticed it was getting really hot (240-250). We pulled over at a gas station and gased it and let it cool off. We had been driving in the city at about 4 o clock for about 7 miles if that makes a difference. When it cooled we tried again. We got about another mile and the temperature would stay down so we pulled back over. We inspected it. The oil pressure showed really zero but we checked the dipstick and it looked okay. The engine sounded normal and the radiator is fairly new. The fan was blowing. We noticed that after it cooled off if you hit the gas the oil pressure would go up (similar to a tachometer...i thought that was weird). After if got cooled and we got on the open highway the temperature stayed normal and the car performed like it should. We think its the thermostat but are not sure.
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