Chevrolet - Camaro :: 1997 - Won't Start After Driving And Being Warm Up Intermittently
May 24, 2014
I have a 1997 Camaro Z28 with 37,000 miles. A year ago it developed a problem of not starting after driving and being warmed up. The best description is when running errands, after the 2nd or 3rd stop, it will not start. If I let it sit for a couple of hours, then it will finally start, but I have to pump the accelerator to get it to start. If it sits overnight, it starts like a brand new car. When the problem happens, the starter is engaging and the engine is cranking. I have had a mechanic spend hours trying to diagnose this and has had no luck, partially due to the intermittent problem. The car is an automatic, not a six speed.
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I recently purchased for my son a 1986 camaro 2.8 MFI v6 the car had been sitting for over a year in the previous owner's back yard because it would not start.I have had a mechanic do the following: heads redone, replace the distributor, replace the timing chain and gears, new wires, and emptied the fuel tank and replaced the fuel filter.
I picked up the car and it ran for about two week no problem. Then it started diying occasionally when you let of the gas to come to a stop, so he replaced the fuel relay switch thinking that it may be going bad. The next day he had been driving it about 15 miles when it just died and would not restart. We shot a little starting fluid to see if we could get it to start and get it back home. it fired up and ran all the way home and died when turning into the driveway. and would not start again.
We replace the fuel regulator the car started right up and he took it for a test drive. The car ran about 4 miles, long enough to warm up and died again and would start. and again we were about to get it started with starting fluid to get it back home. pulled in the driveway and it dies. again it would not start, let it sit all night and the next morning still would not start finally got it to start with a squirt of starting fluid and moved it into the garage. shut if off and then tried to start it and it worked 5 times in a row.
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This intermittent no-start problem has been going on for approximately three years. It seems to be related to the fuel pump not coming on. When the car won't start - it will sputter a little then the engine will just turn over (strong battery) but you can't hear the fuel pump. Took it to the Chevy dealer first time and they said it needed a new fuel pump with a $1,200 price tag. We said we wanted to get a second opinion and took it to an independent garage. It's been so long that we forget what he did - but he did not replace the fuel pump.
A few months later - car does the exact same thing again, sputter then no start. Finally we we agreed to replace the fuel pump - so out comes the rear axle, exhaust system and fuel tank to install the new pump. Couple of months later - sputter then no start. Towed back to independent garage again after a few days it started with out doing any work on it. Started every time for the 6 months it sat at the garage. Attempted to replace the anti-theft model with a used one and he could get the car to start at all - reinstalled old module and it started immediately.
Have had the car back for a month and it sputters quite a bit before running. Today, sputter and no start . . . had the car towed back to the house in hope that it will start without intervention like the last time it went to a garage. The security system idiot light does goes off with the other idiot lights. I'm guessing the sputter is the gasoline that was in the system the last time the engine ran - then when no more fuel is being supplied - it won't start. The independent garage says they are reluctant to install a new anti-theft module for fear it won't be the solution.
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A year ago my 1998 chevy camaro 6 cyl eng. randomly did not start. Then came back to it 15 min later and it started right up and did not give me another problem.3 months ago it did the same thing, but then would go a week at least with no more trouble sometimes longer sometimes more frequent.
within this past month it has become very frequent and I have had to push start it with the clutch a few times to get to work. It starts right up when I pop the clutch every time. Now the car will not start with the key no matter what.
Some more details on what it does now - When I first get in it after it has sat a little while you can hear the starter solenoid click the first three times or so when I turn the key. After that you do not hear the solenoid click anymore, but the relay up under the hood clicks every time with the key. (for kicks I even swapped the starter relay and the ignition relay with no change)
The battery is fairly new, but I load checked it anyway and it is perfect, plus I tried another good battery and jumper cables from a battery in a running car so that's not the problem. I have cleaned all corrosion off terminals and the ground to the engine and to the car.
I checked the resistance of the little piece on each of two ignition keys and they check fine.
I have checked the clutch switch down by the pedal multiple ways. checked resistance of the switch, voltage when the key is on and jumpering the plug with a paper clip.
when I push start the car and have it running I can turn the key with the clutch out nothing happens, but if I push the clutch in the starter will engage (grind) every time (I didnt do this a lot). this tells me that the clutch switch is working and the started is working right?
I did switch the starter out with another used unit and it did the same thing.
I unhooked the alternator on the off chance a short in that was drawing too much juice and not giving enough to the starter (I know I am really reaching here).
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My air conditioner blows cool air (not cold) when I am driving, and when I am stopped, it is warm air. I had to replace the sensor last year. Could it be that again, or something else? Chevy Tahoe 2003 ..
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I have a 97 3/4 ton Chevy truck with 136K miles on it. The problem I have is that the truck is slow to crank when it is warm but when the engine is cool like in the morning or when it has cooled after 2hrs or so the engine turns over fine. I put a new battery in it last summer. I was just wandering could it be my starter.
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I’m hearing a horrible sound when I drive my 2002 Trailblazer. It has 250,000 miles and we have babied it since the first day we bought it. I’m hoping it will last another year. The sound I’m hearing happens intermittently. I took it by a mechanic, and of course it didn’t make the sound. It sounds like you are driving over rumple strips found on the shoulder of expressways. I then feel a “drag” and it goes away. What’s going on?
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2006 chevy Colorado, 4 cyl engine, 50000 miles, at times when engine is warm it won't restart, when cold no problem, starter turns engine over OK, just won't start, wait 15--30 minutes starts OK... when engine is running it runs good..drives good, Chevy Dealer found no problems, I can find no fault codes when hooked up...
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My Burb starts right up when the engine compartment is cold. Can barely touch the key and the thing fires right up.
Once engine compartment is hot (operating temp), I shut off the motor, let it sit for a few minutes and I get about 3-5 seconds of dry start each time I start it. It fires right up, runs great after that dry start period.
The dry-start behaves as if it's starved for fuel for those 3-5 seconds.
It's a K1500 with a stock 5.7l (350 ci). 180,000 miles and the entire drivetrain runs like a top. Only mod I've made is a K&N cold air intake.
Here's what I've done/changed recently (i.e. within the past 5k miles):
Fuel pump, OEM installed by dealer.Fuel filter.Ignition control module, BWD.Ignition coil, BWD.Crankshaft position sensor, GM OEM.Engine coolant temp sensor, BWD.Oxygen sensors (all four), GM OEM.Catalytic converter, replaced one of the two.Plug wires, BWD.Plugs, Delco OEM.Distributor cap and rotor, BWD.Cleaned ground connection (bolts to frame) for fuel pump.Alternator, new not reman.PCV valve.Battery.
Full diagnostics by a very qualified shop two weeks ago, no bleedback from injector spider, fuel pressure solid and holds perfectly. After 90 minutes of troubleshooting, the mechanics finally gave up.
One last thing with potential that I can think of is that I started running ethanol-free gas around the same time this issue surfaced. Not at the exact time, but at a relatively similar time. Gas mileage has increased by 40% and power increased, hard to blame "bad gas."
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I have a 2000 Chevy Camaro. Two years ago my catalytic converter went out and I had it replaced. 20,000 miles later my mechanic says that I need to replace it again. Is this accurate? I thought the life of a Catalytic Converter was much longer.
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2000 Camaro, v6 auto, 103000 miles, 2 years ago car started making a roaring noise in the rear. the faster i go the louder it gets. if i let off the gas it almost goes away. at high speed over 90 the rear vibrates. noticed today that if i push on rear fender there is a clunking noise coming from rear wheel. checked lug nuts and they are tight. Is it unsafe to drive?
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i own a 95 monte carlo z34. ever since i bought it last yr. i have had starting problems. i thought it might be a fuse, checked them all and there fine. i noticed when i pluged in the 2 ingnition fuses back in the fuse block under the hood,the security light lit up for a min then went out. now my car has the chip in the key also. i thought the securty system is failing some how. might it be the tumbler in the colum? if so i read here it could be bypassed, by buying a resister, and spliceing in to a fat orange wire under the steering column, to by pass the security system. is it that easy? if the person who posted the ad with the same problems im haveing could give me more detail instructions on doing this my self,because id rather fix it than take it to a dealer and spend big bucks i don't have.
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All the other cars I had before started better after being warmed up. My 2005 Impala starts perfect when cold first thing in morning but if I go somewhere quick and try to start-up the engine warm it fights it's self and car shakes and it's super rough start . So I figured it's the hot vapors in the engine so I Remove the oil cap and it starts better . What to do to start a warm engine .
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I keep good maintenance for my car. Just had the 45,000 mile major tune up also. However, the engine overheating light came on the other day - said I should idle until it cooled down. I was just about to park, so I did that and left to do some shopping. When I came back and started the drive home the light came on again and indicated I should stop and turn the engine off. I drove two more blocks and put the car in the garage. I noticed what I thought was some leakage on the garage floor also. Next AM, I had it towed to the dealership since I'd checked the coolant dipstick and it looked EMPTY!. Dealership tested it out and could find nothing wrong - no leaks, no computer faults either. They sent me on my way and neither warning light has come on since. I've kept an eye on the engine temperature gauge and it hovers around 200F - mid range on the gauge. No further problems. Funny thing is, now my A/C seems to operate better!
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I have a 2000 z28 Camaro, and I'm having problems with it slipping at high speed. and I noticed today that fluid is leaking and the car loses power as it warms up. it runs great starts right up, just having problems with the tranny. What may be going on, I do check the fluid and fill it when it needs it. and it runs great until I need to get up to around 50mph.
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I have a 1979 Chevy Camaro and whenever I turn the car on so it only lights up my dash, my RPM gauge goes all over the place, and the engine isn't even turn on yet. And also before i even put the keys in the ignition, the RPM is sitting at 10.
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2002 Camaro SS. Been sitting in my garage and I have not started it for 2 months (I know, not smart). So I started it yesterday, it ran for about 20 seconds then just died and I cannot get it to restart. Battery is fully charged, it turns over, I can hear the injectors seemingly shoot fuel when I just turn the key into accessory mode, but when I try to start it, it just cranks like it's out of gas and never even gives the slightest hint of trying to turn over completely. There is a 1/4 tank gas, that is at least 2 years old in the car. Also, when it started the first time a ton of black stuff came out of the tail pipes.
Bad gas? Fuel pump? Not sure which path to go down first.
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I have a 1994 V6 Chevrolet Camaro with ~197K miles. Recently I have noticed that after starting the engine it idles rougher than normal and also as I accelerate, especially between 45 and 65 mph. Several things have just been replaced and/or fixed: spark plugs, spark plug cables, oil, coil packs, water pump, & thermostat. I regularly use premium gasoline and when for some reason a lower octane is used I add an octane booster. Since this problem arose I tried a fuel system cleaner; it hasn't worked thus far. The last time something like this happened, I took my Camaro to a trusted repair shop and when being diagnosed its' cylinder chambers and many different lines flooded with fuel. After replacing the fuel regulator my car returned to normal.
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I own a 1988 Camaro Iroc-Z with a 5.7 350 TPI motor. I was driving the car onto I-95 at a speed of 65 when I heard a loud boom under my car, and pulled over to see what had happened. I couldn't see what happened, so I drove the car slowly to a friends garage to find the exhaust pipe from the converter back to the muffler had split and blew apart. I took my car to another shop to repair the pipe, but when I left the shop after the repair, I accellerated to about 40 mile per hour, I get another loud backfire and loss of power. The pipe is still intact, but I cannot figure out what is causing the backfire. My friend from the first garage says it is a failing fuel pump. I never heard of such a thing to be honest.I am at a loss and I have to correct the issue soon, as this is my only car to drive.
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I have a 98 camaro z28 and im having some problems with my rear end. I am positive its a limited slip. Ive removed the cover from differential and know what a lsd looks like. My problem is when i turn and hit the gas only 1 tire spins. But if im going straight and hit the gas both tires spins. When i say spin i mean break loose. I removed the cover tonight and took a look. No metal shavings at all. It all looks in good conditon. It has a 390 gear in it. Owner before me put it in. I removed the calipers and the axels have a little play in them. About a quarter inch play going in and out. Was wondering if this was normal. Also while it was jacked up i could hold one wheel while spinning the other. And if i play with it i can make the back left tire spin by its self also not making the ring gear move. Is it normal for a wheel to spin and the ring gear not move? I have a lot of questions about differentials. But mainly why am i only getting one tire to spin when turning?
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My '97 camaro has a cracked cylinder. (or something like that; the water keeps getting "consumed" by the engine). my mechanic put something in it that temporarily "sealed" the crack. it bought me more time but now it's not holding on to any water. My question is, can i do this again and is it something i can do myself?
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