Chevrolet - Blazer :: Wheel Bearing Making Noise After Tire Replacement
May 5, 2011
Immediately after I had four new tires installed on a 2000 Blazer 4wd, the front wheel bearings started making noise. At the time I thought the noise was from the new tires. A few thousand miles later my mechanic told me I needed two reman hub assemblies (sealed bearings) for ~$350 apiece plus labor.
Is there anything that the tire shop (independent not chain) could have done (accidentally or otherwise) to damage the bearings during the tire installation? I have to get 4 tires for my 93 Chevrolet Caprice and don't wish to repeat the experience.
Whoops, forgot to mention this happened at 56k miles when the truck was five years old. Is it possible that the bearings were borderline and the process of mounting the wheels put them over the edge? For instance, someone being a little over enthusiastic with an impact wrench.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Venture van, the front tires wore out on the inside, badly. DH adjusted the toe (made the rod shorter, so made it more toe-out?). We got new tires, after 1000 miles, they were again wearing on the inside. I convinced him to get a front end alignment. After the alignment, there is a lot of road noise, goes away when you go around a right turn. Could it just be the tires wearing differently, or is it a wheel bearing, and could that have been affected by the alignment? We have driven 150 miles since the alignment and it still is noisy.
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I have 2012 Impala and hit a pot hole blowing out the left front tire but rim was not damaged, replaced the tire. Now the shop tells me that the wheel bearing has been damaged and the hub/bearing assembly needs to be replaced. I've never seen this happen. Is it possible that the bearing got damaged?
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My belt was making a screaming squeaky noise to wake up the dead. I used dish soap on it and it got quiet as long as I remember to bring the dish soap. My mechanic looked at my AC and told me I need a new compressor (he is a friend I trust) Now the AC comp turns but the belt seems to go on and off. And, the weird thing is-the AC feels great! Am I to expect any moment for it to just stop working? So, what to expect from my dead or dying compressor?
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So my front right Wheel bearing is making noise and its a used Knuckle so its w/e. Guess ill use tonight to do all my bushings and fluids n stuff.
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My girlfriend and I just bought a 2011 a few weeks ago. We test drove it a couple times ourselves, and had our mechanic take a look at it and drive it also. Everything looked and sounded good. Not sure how much it matters, but it's a Certified Used as well.
A couple days ago, returning from a 45-minute drive which included some short stretches of gravel road, I noticed an oscillating sound. It's definitely not a noise that was there when we bought the car. Unfortunately, my cell is apparently bad at capturing audio, so hopefully my description will be enough.
The noise is very faint, almost inaudible, at low speeds. Between 30 and 35 mph it gets much louder, peaking at about 33. There's some vibration through the accelerator pedal also. Above 35, it fades pretty quickly and I can't really hear it at 50. The sound itself is 3 beats on, 1 beat off, about every second. There's a slight difference in pitch between each beat.
If that isn't enough to go on, let me know and I'll give the recording another shot and upload it if the noise is audible.
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Wheel bearing go out? My left front just starting making noise and when turned by hand you can hear the bearings are shot. Called around this morning and with my luck its on back order and the entire hub has to be replaced since the bearing is built into the hub.
Anyways, I was wondering replacing this unit themselves and how long it took to complete? I was going to let Ford do the work but I figured I have never done a job like this and wanted to give it a try and looking at some Youtube videos on older vehicles it did not look that difficult.
If I find that its not difficult I will tackle the other side as well since I figure it is probably not long before that side is gone also and I would not want that to fail while I am out towing somewhere.
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My rear passenger tire spins easily and makes noise. Here is the link to video....
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Have a rear wheel bearing making some noise. A friend told me that it is always the outer bearing that goes first . Can you replace the bearing without replacing the race?
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I replaced the driver's side wheel bearing on my 2001 venture and now the ABS light goes on about 5 to 10 seconds after starting the car. It stays on through out the drive. Before the light goes on I get a sound as if passing your fingers up and down an old fashioned washboard. I have read throughout these threads to replace the bearing but I don't foresee that happening. How can this bearing be bad when the car feels great driving now.
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I own a 2002 Chev. small blazer with 4 wheel drive available. Largest V-6 available. There is a clunk sound I can hear and feel as this vehicle is shifting OUT of 4 wheel into 2 wheel drive. Going from 2 to 4 wheel drive is perfect. First mechanic (test drove alone) said he would have to tear apart the front transfer case to determine fault. 2nd mechanic (with me along) did power brake slow turns in parking lot. Said the electric shifter was bad and would have to tear apart the transfer case also. Neither mechanic put the vehicle up on a hoist.
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So 2 weeks ago I noticed that after 30 minutes of driving on the highway my steering wheel started making a loud growling noise and vibrating really hard! When I hit the brakes it got worse but got better as I slowed to 30 mph. It doesn't happen all the time and not right away, only after a while of driving and the dealership says without codes they can do nothing...
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My 2005 GMC Sierra has just >80,000 kms on it, and I'm having to replace a second wheel bearing hub. A few months ago, the rear left wheel almost came off because the bearings were falling out of the hub. Yesterday, the same thing happened while traveling on a highway with the front left wheel. While my truck was being pulled up onto the tow truck, all the bearings fell out of the wheel - one was completely ground, the others were perfect. A few more turns or bumps and I suspect I would have lost the wheel.
I didn't have any grinding noises with the front tire (although I did with the rear) - the front hub deteriorated really quickly (within 100kms of driving), and it sounded like cables snapping while driving which was likely the bearings tumbling around.
Having problems with the GMC Sierra wheel bearing hubs/integrated ABS sensors? Should the hubs be wearing out so quickly? It seems like a safety hazard to me, since there wasn't any early warning signs of a major hub meltdown.
And I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it, but I've also had to have my rotors ground down 3 times and replaced once since new.
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Just had an oil change and during inspection they noticed that the drivers side wheel bearing is starting to go. They brought me back in the shop and I was able to feel the play in the bearing myself. Only a matter of time before it needs to be replaced.
How to replace the front wheel bearing/hub assembly? I don't have a press for the bearing itself so I'm assuming I can just replace the entire hub assembly. I have already replaced the drivers side rear hub assembly about 1.5 years back due to a bad bearing
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My 2006 Prius with now 68,000 miles just had both front wheel bearings replaced today from an independent shop in town with a good reputation.
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I have sonata 2006 v6 3.3. Over the weekend Left rear wheel bearing was replaced. Right after the replacement ABS + ESC OFF lights came on and stayed. I took the battery connection out and restart the car but no difference. There is no affect on driving or performance car drives normally, Cruise operation works normal as well. Mechanic scanned and scanner showed right real wheel sensor malfunction. He claimed that he didn't even open the right rear wheel. I am hoping it's not the sensor.
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2006 Sonata with 90k ... When I make right turns the left front wheel is making a rubbing sound with the motion of the wheel. It's not doing it on a straight line, just turning right. I've talked to a couple of my friends and they are telling me it's a wheel bearing. I have a service manual but it's not really going into detail on what I'm in for. I work on motorcycles all the time and my good friend said he has a press if I can bring him the knuckle and the OEM bearing. Looking for a little guidance before I take the wheel off and get started. Are there any special tools involved, etc...should I do the other side while I'm doing this also...
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I m about to replace the front wheel bearing of my 2000 1.8 t I already rent the tool (hub and bearing puller and installer) from german auto parts.com but looking for pics of step by step of the process before starting the job.
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I have a 2000 Passat and brought it to a local shop to have the left front wheel bearing changed. He took the car apart and said he couldnt do it because the anti lock brake wire ran threw the control arm and had no plug on it and was wired right to the dash board. Should i find a different place to take it to or is it a dealer required fix. Can i buy the bearing myself and change it?
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I had the drivers side rear wheel bearing replaced and now the ABS warning light is on. The shop also replaced the wheel speed sensor. The car appears to drive fine and the brakes work fine, although without ABS. The light does not come on immediately upon start up. It normally will appear after the car is driven a bit, could be a few hundred yards or a mile.
My first thought is that whatever it is that serves as a "trigger" for the speed sensor got damaged during bearing replacement. I don't know what this trigger is, or exactly where it is located, presumably in the hub.
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My dealership said our left rear is noisy and that we need new wheel bearings and a speed sensor and to do an alignment and balance. I called my other wheel place and they are about $300 cheaper. But, they said I have the option of an OEM wheel bearing or different one. I'm a little confused, but I think the OEM would be about $85 more, if I understood correctly. Whether or not to get OEM for this?
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