Chevrolet - Blazer :: RPMs Surge High At Startup, Then Dies
Feb 10, 2015
I have a 1998 Chevy Blazer (2WD) with 115k miles. When I turn the key and start the car, the RPMs rev up really high for about 4 seconds and then drop down real low until the car dies. All in all this is about an 8-second process, and it sounds like I'm flooring the accelerator when, in fact, I'm not even touching it. The Blazer just started doing this, but previously for about the last few months about once a month, when I would start the car I would get a loud backfire sound which sounded like it came from under the hood (driver's side), and this was followed by the smell of exhaust coming into the cab through the AC vents. How to go about diagnosing this since I'm unable to drive it to get the codes read
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I am a laid off mechanic doing some side work. I friend of mine has a 98 blazer that will not start in damp weather. Here's the kicker, it has spark to the plugs. New cap, rotor, pick up coil, and wires. Fuel pressure is around 60psi. I think it might be in the fuel injection. I drove the SUV into my garage, While the engine was running I watered the distributer down along with the wires. It ran fine. I shut it down and tried to start it a few minutes later with no luck. I took the distributer apart to inspect it for water and found nothing. I reassembled it and still had a no start situation.
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2004 Santa fe. Having issues with RPM running high. When car is started, RPM sits at 1500 for a few mins, then drops to 500. Seems to be having issues either getting into gear or staying. At any mph, car seems to surge and not feel like it's getting either gas or power. While on cruise at 55+ mph, car will also surge with RPM dropping 500, then kicking back in. This goes on every few seconds up to random times.
Had it looked at this past weekend at a dealer, and of course it didn't do it one time, after doing it for a half hour prior on the interstate. Tech found no error codes when he checked it as well. Car was fine for an additional 300 miles, then it started again out of the blue. Pulled out at a red light and I though I was going to stall.
Just got laid off so I'm trying to eliminate before putting a lot of money into it if I don't have to. 132,000 miles.
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So I had this issue with my idling at 1300 rpms but every now and then it would idle at 400 and barley run then one day it didnt want to idle at all so I checked the iac and it was bad so I changed my oil, fuel filter, iac, cleaned my throttle body, fixed a vacuum hose, and cleaned my air filter.
When I started it it idle at 2200 I drove it a little and it dropped down to 1300 the next day I started it and it idled at 800 and staid there for four days now it idles at 2000 then will drop down and surge between 1300 and 1800.
I read that the oil you apply to the filter can contaminate the Maf and you should clean it but a lot of people said the one on a vr4 can't be cleaned while others say it fine. Is there a way to check the maf?
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I have a 97 chevy blazer, that has no headlights. the daytime running lights, dash and marker lights all work but not the headlights or high beams?
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2004 Santa Fe .... 2.7 6 Cyl 4WD 150k miles
Recently I started experiencing RPMs surging upon startup and driving before my engine warms up. The problem has gotten worse to where I push on the accelerator the RPMs jump to 2700 and the transmission feels like it disengages. My initial thought was the tranny was going bad and slipping. I checked the fluid level in the T and found it was maybe a half Qt. low. I topped it off, but this had no impact on the problem. On a side note, I am able to use the manual shifting feature on the "His and Hers" Shifter and drive the vehicle without any issue. Transmission works fine in manual. The surging RPMs which only occur in Automatic mode, triggered the CEL and I got a code of P0123 which is high side voltage on the Throttle Position Sensor. I replaced the gray TPS with a new black one.
Upon startup the RPMS jumped to 3000 just sitting in Park. I disassembled and reinstalled figuring I had something bound in the throttle. After reassembly the idle went up to 2200, still no good! I reinstalled the original gray TPS and the RPMs, upon starting, RPMs were 1500 with the old sensor...still too high. I did reset the ECU twice during the process of putting in the new sensor and reinstalling the old sensor. Right now I found that when I disconnect the TPS electrical connector, the engine runs normal. It starts right up with the TPS totally disconnected and idles at 750 RPMs! It will not shift to 2nd gear though, when I try to drive it in Automatic Mode. I can however drive in Manual Mode and drive normal and shift right through the gears. Who needs automatic mode right?!!!
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My hybrid has been a great car, owned 3 years. Now have problem: runs great but if going higher speed 65 and pulls hill needing to kick in to 4000rpms it dies right away says high temp engine but does not smell hot or need water. Let it sit for 15 minutes (even though will start right away but might keep dying unless sits). Will run fine unless hits higher rpms then dies again. 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid...
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My question is what could cause a high idle?I have a 95 Chevy pickup 4x4 with a 5.7... Recently the lower radiator hose fell came off the radiator, dumping the liquids all over the street. The motor shut down, and every time we went to start it there would be a loud whining/spinning noise. We thought that the motor seized, so we pulled the plugs, turned the motor by the crank bolt.Turned out that the starter went bad, the spindle and bendex werent catching on the flywheel.
After examining the flywheel teeth, and gapping the plugs to the recommended manufacture gap, (they werent when we pulled them), we got a new starter installed. It started right up! But it ran at a high idle, around 1500-2000 RPM. I did not have a chance to really let it warm up (it was cold and raining). Now there is a gray flexhose that is running from the air filter housing down to the exhaust manifold. If i remember correctly, it was not seated very well when I took it off. Could it be causing too much of a vacuum?
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I woke up and drove to a stop sign. When I tried to pull away the transmission raced like crazy, HIGH RPMS! But was barely moving. After about 8-15 mph it would finally catch 2nd gear. I check fluids frequently, and topped it off a few weeks ago, and when I finally got where I was able to stop, I looked and there was no fluid registering. So I put 2 quarts in to fill.... Then started the car and it would not go into any gear completely. I'd just feel a small thump, when I shifted. It will actually drop into gear after a while going straight, but it's stil revving HIGH and it won't completely go into reverse. Weirdest thing, the "Anti-Lock" light came on while all this was happening...
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I have a 2001 chevy metro 4 cyl. with 13 inch wheels and automatic transmission. The engine rpm's are running high at highway speeds. Would a larger diameter wheel support this situation?
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On startup, hot or cold, I get an initial high idle, up to around 1800 rpm's. This happens immediately when engine starts, and then idles right down. This has done this since new in '04. Dealer at that time said it was normal and not to worry. It's always made me wonder, but I trusted the dealer. Ya, not always smart.
After 92k miles. Engine runs fine otherwise, but I don't really care for grabbing a bunch of rpm's on any engine without having the oil pressure up to normal.
A few weeks ago, I started it up, and some yahoo said he knew I drove big trucks by the way I started my Ranger. That was one of those times. I'm thinking IAC is wide open maybe?
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So my 20th AE has been wrecked. But here is the issue, the car will idle for a about 30 seconds to a minute but surge from 1500 rpms to around 750. But after that, it won't idle. If I let it sit for a couple of days, then it will idle for a little bit then die again.
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I've been dealing with this for some time now because it hasn't seemed to affect my performance when I am getting on it, but when I am at idle the rpms will surge ever so slightly and i can watch the needle on my boost gauge bouncing up and down. i have a WINtake on the car and it started ever since i installed that. I am wondering what this could be. I've already taken the whole intake out and reinstalled thinking i had a leak somewhere. even tried swapping my maf with a known good one off the lot on a brand new R.
I read somewhere that someone had their maf in backwards. could this be the issue? I don't have any power loss that I am aware of. in fact, if its down on power now, i would have a hard time believing that it could be much faster with what i have done to it. this idle surge will get worse when i have my ac on also. someone make me realize that I am missing something stupid and simple here so i can have a normal idle again. I am half tempted to put my stock intake back on to see but i no longer have the turbo inlet plastic pipe to test it with.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe. Has about 65k miles on it and has regular maintenance and tune ups when needed. It is cared for. The last tune up was about 2k miles ago. Spark plug change, oil change, filters, etc.
I have noticed lately that when the car is moving at idle speeds, it will surge about 200 rpms. It does not happen when the breaks are on or stopped or in park, or moving at higher speeds. It only does it while moving and with no acceleration. It happens in Drive and Reverse.
I live in the city of Lima Peru so a 4x4 is useful but it also requires some tight parking but when it starts to surge, it is a huge pain.
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I have a 1991 Mitsubishi Mighty Max 3.0, and it is giving me some trouble. If the MAF sensor is plugged in the RPM's surge up and down, anywhere from 600-2000. If you unplug the MAF sensor it runs smoothly around 1600 RPM. I put in a brand new MAF sensor and that didn't change anything at all. Everybody I talk to says it must have a vacuum leak?
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A few days ago my 98 C1500 started having what I can only imagine is some type of torque converter issue. While driving at a constant speed the RPM will surge by about 500-600. This surge does not coincide with any type of acceleration, it's more like the converter is letting go and the RPM's just rise and fall back down. The fluctuations also seem to stop after about 15 minutes of normal driving. I have had no real noticeable transmission issues. At first i assumed it was my tranny fluid just breaking down so to get me home I used a bottle of Lucas.
The bottle seemed to do the trick for only a couple of days and now the problem is back...no better, no worse. The only difference I have noticed is that before the addition of the Lucas my fluid looked perfect and now it seems there is a bit of varnish. No smell, nothing seems burnt, just a little dirty. I haven't changed the tranny fluid for about 70k and the truck now has roughly 160K on it. My concern is that if I do change it the transmission will crap completely and I'll be on the hook for a rebuild.
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Why does my engine rpms surge from 1k to almost 3k when i put it in neutral or push my clutch in ?
It's an 07 2.5 jetta with manual tranny...
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My car (1994 TBird, LX) has an intermittent problem where the rpm's surge while I'm cruising down the freeway. I've noticed that it happens more often on an incline, and it also happens more during rush hour when I have to frequently slow down and the accelerate again.
If I had to guess, I think it's the TCC Solenoid that's the issue. Would replacing this likely solve the problem? Or would I be better served having my mechanic unplug it? My car is giving error codes to replace the camshaft position sensor (related?), and while important, I need to address the rpm issue first as it's getting progressively worse. Tranny fluid is clean, although I've only owned the car for 2 months so I don't know when it was last replaced.
I can't afford a huge repair, but I have a certified mechanic who's always done right by me, but he's not the best at diagnosis. I'd feel better if I could whittle down the issues and then just tell him what to fix.
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I have a 2002 F150 5.4 2 valve. only when the engine is cold, everyone once in a while the engine will surge up and down about 2-300 RPMs for about 10 seconds. also right when I put it in drive it will surge. I was thinking about pulling off the trottle body and cleaning it.
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So my 2005 elantra 2.0 CVVT has 189k on it 1 owner.
I got a check engine light one day and i read the code. Came out to be 02 sensor code bank 1. So i order a denso o2 sensor and replace the part.
I drive the car for about 400 miles to reset monitors and get a check engine light. P0420 cat code. At this point the car drives with normal power and pickup.
1000 miles later my car has lost power. It doesn't have any get up or power when driving normally. I take the car to my local shop and they recommend replacing front cat. I replace front cat, same issue.
At this point i'm not sure if it is a transmission problem or maybe my 2nd cat or something else?
On the freeway if I put my pedal to the ground the rpms surge up very very slowly,
Also seems like the car doesn't shift till around 4k rpms, seems like previously it shifted sooner.
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I've got a 99 f250 5.4 that runs like a top. In the last 6 months I've been chasing a little problem. It doesn't happen all the time but seem to be happen more and more. While driving any speed If I let off the gas the RPM's hold at around 1500 then surges down to 1000 then back up again to 1500.
Does that 2 to 4 times then all good. Give it gas again it does it again. It kind of does it when it wants. Could be fine for a trip around then next trip it acts up again. Checked a lot of the vacuum lines, PVC valve and replaced the idle control next to the EGR valve. EGR is next.
Idles and runs fine except the surge thing..
P0401 code as well.
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