Chevrolet - Blazer :: 2000 - Transmission Is Slipping
Oct 2, 2014
My daughter drives my old 2000 Chevy Blazer with a reconditioned transmission I paid for in Aug 2010. The new (rebuilt) transmission is now slipping. Could this be as simple as a fuse (electrical signal issue) or not having enough transmission fluid?
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I got my blazer look at and here what they come up with so far. Transmission fluid is discolored. Transmission shifts late between 3rd and 4th at 52 mph. Transmission slips between 2nd and 3rd gears at 32 mph. Lock up 41-43 mph in and out. I never told them this but I change the transmission fluid about a week before i took it there and when I check the fluid it was nice and clean and not burned like he said it was. He said most likely it internal damage.for them to take a look in side to see what is wrong with cost me 400.00 and I said no.
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My Step Brother has a 1994 Chevy S-10 Blazer with a 4.3L V6 Automatic and the Transmission isn't Shifting Right what could be the Problem?
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Our 2000 blazer LT 4.3L 4 door 4wd has 190,000 km (about 115,000 miles). 3 Button dash control. Transmission was rebuilt at 100,000 miles (main troque converter spline was shot). The 4 wd will not engage in either hi or lo.
Whether moving or not, press 4 wd lo, light stays on. but nothing happens. I cannot hear the transfer case engaging.
Had a previous problem, (withflashing light): found the vacuum hose under battery case was worn through.
I do have a service engine light on the dash. This may be unrelated, because 4wd stopped working long before service engine light came on. I have changed the Oxygen sensor, but no reset the fault yet. Where to start.
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1986 S10 blazer automatic transmission won't go into reverse OR neutral! It goes fwd in both reverse and neutral. It goes into park just fine. The fluid is full and not burnt. It will drive forward when in reverse and in neutral. I turned the engine off and checked neutral, it was not in gear but tried to go forward as soon as I started the engine. I have never seen this!
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I have a 2000 Chevy blazer 4.3L 4 wheel drive. 4 of the 6 cylinders are misfiring and the car has completely lost power. Before this issue occurred it was running fine and the next morning when I went to start it the car was turning over and wouldn't start. My dad and uncle believe it's a distributor or computer issue but I would like other opinions about this issue.....
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I have a 1998 chevy blazer v6 about 127024 miles. My transmission shifts hard out of first gear when i get to 4 gear and it shifts hard. When car warms up really good car shifts find out of first gear but 4th gear still shifts hard. I did change transmission fluid and new filter in it and I check fluid level and it's full.
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2000 Blazer LT 4wd, 118000 miles
During a severe thunder storm the factory alarm went off. I was unable to shut off the alarm with the key fob. The power door locks did not work either with the door switch or the key fob. I disconnected the battery and let it sit for 30 minutes.
After I reconnected the battery the door locks worked using the key fob or door switch. I took it for a drive with no further problems. About 10 minutes later the alarm went off again. I could hear the door lock solenoids attempting to lock/unlock the doors and there was a clicking under the dash. I disconnected the battery again, after the battery was reconnected the power door locks were still not working. The truck starts up and runs normal, everything seems to work except for the door lock?
I checked the PW fuse, it was fine. The battery is fully charged at 12.6V. I've disconnected the battery and will have another look at it tomorrow. There was nothing useful in the Owner's Manual and the resync procedure did not work.
Update: Before driving to work this morning, I cleaned the positive and negative terminals. The locks worked and the truck ran normally during the 30 min drive to work. After reading the Owner's manual closely, I discovered the Theft Deterrent System can be disarmed by locking the car with the doors closed. The system is armed by locking the doors with a door open, i.e. pressing the lock switch when exiting the vehicle.
No further problems with the alarm or the door locks whether the Theft Deterrent System is armed or disarmed. Hopefully leaving the battery disconnected overnight was the fix.
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I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer with about 180,000 miles on it. It has been running fine, then a few weeks ago we got gas at a small little station we had never been to. The day after it started cutting out. We took it to the shop and they put a new catalytic converter on it. They said it also needed a new water pump and something with oil seals, so we went ahead and did that. It drove fine for a while, then the next time we filled up with gas it started cutting out and completely died. They put a new fuel filter, spark plugs and wires and distributor cap, basically gave it a good tune up. It's been driving fine. We filled it up and with in a few miles it start stuttering. At the stop light it rattled but kept going. drove it another 3 miles and it stuttered again. We are out of money and at our wits end!
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I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer and the front grill is faded and yellow. I drove to a reputable body shop and the guy there told me that this type of plastic cannot be sanded or painted because will only fade again. He told me my only option was to buy a new or aftermarket grill which ranges from $360 to $450. Is there anything I can apply to the grill that will return it to its original black finish?
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The cruise control on my 2000 Blazer LS 4X4 is not working. I just changed the multi-function switch and still nothing. I looked at the throttle cables and they seem to be fine. All the fuses are good as well.
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I recently had some issues getting my 2000 Blazer LS started. It would act as though the battery was dying. But if I let it set a few moments, it would start right up. Then a couple days later, I needed a jump start to get it going. I took it to my local Auto Zone to have the alternator tested because the battery was only 3 years old. (It was a 5 year battery.)
They determined that it was the battery. So I went to Walmart and bought a 700 CCA battery. And today the gauge is fluctuating again.... Considering it is cold and snowing here, heat, wipers, and rear defrost tend to be essential. But if I try to run all of them, the gauge dumps. And causes everything to bog down. I do not have any aftermarket electronics installed in the truck. And until last Thursday, this was not an issue.
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2000 Chevy Blazer 4.3 (automatic) - When I bought it used, it shifted fine, has no issues other than the transfer case wouldn't engage every time. A few months later my overhead console display lights went out, then all the dash lights such as engine, 4x4, the gauges started lighting up and acting weird randomly, then a week later the truck started shifting funny.
Now 90% of the time, the truck won't start in 1st gear, it starts in 2nd, then while accelerating up to 30-35mph it will shift up way too soon and bog down, then shit back down to 2nd, then shift up again, and continue until it hits 30-35, then it fails to shift into overdrive. Also when coming to a stop, it kicks down a gear (into 2nd I assume) pretty hard and clanks pretty loud around 2mph just before a complete stop.
Weird thing is every once in awhile, it will go away and shift normal but the engine light is usually lit up during normal shifting.Could it be the ECM causing all these weird things?
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2000 Blazer 4wd, automatic, 122000 miles
In the last couple of weeks, if the Blazer isn't driven for 3 or more days, there is a slight knocking noise for 15 to 20 seconds after start up. Oil level and pressure are fine. I'm guessing it's the lifters.....
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The fuel gauge on my 2000 Blazer is flipping from empty to full. (Even as I drive down the road it moves.) And nothing in between. The fuel pump was replaced about a year and a half ago. I've been told the fuel pump controls the fuel gauge. So I'm wondering if there could be a loose contection or if this is a sign the pump will go bad again.
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2007 Chevy Impala3.5L 6-cyl Flex Fuel engine w/ 4 speed auto trans52,800 miles
Extreme driving conditions maintenance schedule kept.Transmission standard service done @ 32,800 miles which was 20k ago.
PROBLEM:
1) Twice in past three days, when shifting from reverse to drive the transmission has slipped, revving hard with rpms spiked above 3,000 for about 2 seconds before engaging the forward drive gear.
Normally I come to a complete stop of all reverse motion with foot fully on the brake pedal before shifting. Admittedly, I got sloppy the first time noted and still had very slight reverse motion when I shifted.
2) Several times late today, while driving uphill at approx 35 - 45 mph, when the car downshifted there was an extremely brief moment of transmission slippage with spiked rpms. It was so brief each time that at first I thought I'd imagined it until it happened again. Then it did it once on a level surface in a parking lot when having shifted from reverse to drive without problem and was gently accelerating the transmission again slipped for just the briefest moment when the normal automatic shift point was reached. So far, all incidences while driving have been so extremely brief that it was the merest hint of a hiccup.
3) When bringing the car to a complete stop, such as at a stoplight or when parking, as the transmission automatically shifts for the braking of speed, sometimes there is a minor but noticeable thunk sound seeming to come from underneath the car, I'd judge to be somewhere about under the level of the dashboard or slightly forward of that. Could that be from a worn or broken transmission mount? And, if so, could that be somehow causing the slippage problem?
4) This transmission has always, even since new, allowed more roll after being shifted into park, the engine shut off and my foot taken off the brake than any other car I have ever driven. If I forget to engage the parking brake quite tightly, the car will roll forward quite a few inches before the parking pawl holds it, even on the level. I've been told both by the dealership shop and the independent mechanic shop that there is no problem and that this particular engine/transmission combination tends to do this although my particular car seems to do so somewhat worse than average.
ACTIONS TAKEN SO FAR:
1) Have made an appointment to take the car into the mechanic.
2) Will check the transmission fluid level per instructions in the owner's manual tomorrow when I have daylight to see what the fluid level and color on the stick looks like.
NOTE:
1) I periodically check the transmission fluid level and it has never been low or discolored. The shop checked it for me, along with making sure everything else was road trip worthy, for an emergency 1,000 round trip in late November, just three months ago. No problems then.
2) No evidence on the garage floor of any leakage. Garage floor is dry.
QUESTIONS:
1) I presume the first step is for the mechanic to check the fluid level and examine for any leaks?
2) If the mechanic cannot duplicate the problem in a test drive, then what?
3) If the problem cannot be duplicated and no apparent cause found, I presume that the prudent course of action is to go ahead and have standard transmission maintenance done (i.e. drop the pan, check for debris, drain and replace with fresh fluid) then see if that halts the slippages?
4) Given that this car has already had failures of the power steering pump, water pump, and part of the wiring harness, and has a fuel pump starting to get noisy, despite aggressively maintaining all standard/preventive maintenance, that perhaps it is time to think of replacing this car, especially if there proves to be any truly major transmission problem found?
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We own a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer, 8 cyl, 150K miles. Since July 11, the transmission has been slipping into neutral, usually when slowing down. This happens anywhere, and usually in slow (so far) traffic. My husband has been able to get the car to drive either in D3, or has been able to get it back into Drive, and the car just drives off like nothing happened. This usually takes a few minutes of turning it off and on, and shifting gears. Today he drove it in AWD, and it was fine (so far). He normally drives it in 4WD. They have been unable to duplicate this problem and, because there aren't any codes, cannot tell us what's going on. Needless to say, I've had it.
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I have a 2000 z28 Camaro, and I'm having problems with it slipping at high speed. and I noticed today that fluid is leaking and the car loses power as it warms up. it runs great starts right up, just having problems with the tranny. What may be going on, I do check the fluid and fill it when it needs it. and it runs great until I need to get up to around 50mph.
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I have a 2005 Cavalier (60,000 miles) that's been having some transmission slipping in the cold weather. As the weather has warmed up, the issue has lessened but not quite gone away. We added a little transmission fluid, but I haven't yet had a chance to replace the fluid/filter. The check engine light has been on in my car since I've owned it... the shop I bought it from replaced the solenoid, but the code still hung around. Everything I've googled tells me that the issue could be the wiring or could be the solenoid needing replacing. My real question is... how soon do I need to act on this? p0741 p2761
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When I accelerate in 2nd gear the rpms zoom and then it shifts into 3rd and the rpms quickly go back to normal. If I take my foot off the gas as soon as this starts the car goes into 3rd slower but the rpms don't zoom up. I've never had a car that had transmission problems. Is this what's referred to as a Transmission Slipping? Meaning that it needs to be replaced? My mechanic drove it and said the tranny could go in a week or in another 100,000 miles.
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I just noticed last night that my transmission was slipping in 3rd gear, it's an automatic. I added just about a quart of transmission fluid today....took a little drive and it still seems to be having the same problem? What might be causing this besides needing to get a new/rebuilt transmission?
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