Chevrolet - Blazer :: 1998 - No Startup In Rain Or Damp Weather
May 1, 2012
I am a laid off mechanic doing some side work. I friend of mine has a 98 blazer that will not start in damp weather. Here's the kicker, it has spark to the plugs. New cap, rotor, pick up coil, and wires. Fuel pressure is around 60psi. I think it might be in the fuel injection. I drove the SUV into my garage, While the engine was running I watered the distributer down along with the wires. It ran fine. I shut it down and tried to start it a few minutes later with no luck. I took the distributer apart to inspect it for water and found nothing. I reassembled it and still had a no start situation.
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When the outside air temp reaches above 70 degrees, my Blazer will die going down the road. It will not start for about five minutes, then starts up again. Also, I have took the overflow cap off, poured water in it, and it would start up fine. I don't know what is causing the problem, it runs great in fall/winter, but when it warms up, it starts doing this?
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I have a 2000 Chevy S10 V6 with 176,500 miles that won't start when weather is cold and damp or hot and humid. I've checked distributer cap, spark plug wires, ignition module, and replaced crankshaft position sensor because of a high resistance reading on the sensor (14.17 Megaohms). I've never had any fault codes. What else can I check before I decide to junk the truck.
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Why will the 96 Blazer not start in the rain? Replaced almost all electric components from key cylinder to plugs. It is grounded somewhere when wet.
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I have a 1998 Chevy Blazer (2WD) with 115k miles. When I turn the key and start the car, the RPMs rev up really high for about 4 seconds and then drop down real low until the car dies. All in all this is about an 8-second process, and it sounds like I'm flooring the accelerator when, in fact, I'm not even touching it. The Blazer just started doing this, but previously for about the last few months about once a month, when I would start the car I would get a loud backfire sound which sounded like it came from under the hood (driver's side), and this was followed by the smell of exhaust coming into the cab through the AC vents. How to go about diagnosing this since I'm unable to drive it to get the codes read
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I have a 1998 chevy blazer v6 about 127000 miles on it. When I go and start up car the car starts right up. If I turn car off it won't start back up so i give it a little gas it starts right back up. There is no check engine light...
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I have a 1998 chevy blazer v6 about 127024 miles. My transmission shifts hard out of first gear when i get to 4 gear and it shifts hard. When car warms up really good car shifts find out of first gear but 4th gear still shifts hard. I did change transmission fluid and new filter in it and I check fluid level and it's full.
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I have a 1998 chevy blazer and I cant get it to start. I removed the starter and turned the key and can see the starter popping out and spinning, but when I put it back into the flywheel all I get is clicking noise(like if the battery is dead) I had it on jumper cables so I don't think its the battery?
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i have a 1998 chevy blazer 4.3 4wd v6 about 130000 miles on it. There is no check engine light on at all. Some reason it takes long time for it to get up to speed.and i can't figer out why that is i did replace spark plugs in it..
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What would cause my truck to have a long turnover start, a really rough idle, and a loss of power after idling at a stop light for about a minute?
This problem gets worse as the truck warms up. It feels as if I'm not getting power from all 6 cylinders but this goes away after about 20 feet of acceleration. The truck has never not started. It just has to turn over for about 5 to 10 seconds before it fires up. I changed the spark plugs and wires thinking it was that and then i tried the fuel filter and it wasn't that either.
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I have issues with engine starting when cold outside or after rain. This only happens when engine is cold and has not been started for a day or 2. Distributor cap does not have any condensation inside but does seem to corrode on contact points. Engine turns over fine, has fuel and spark. When this happens engine will not fire and after awhile it will start to fire and lock up when it fires then continue cranking. After repeated attempts it will start and run fine, can be shut off and start right back up with out any issues. It could take a few tries to a few hours of trying before running though. I'm leaning toward a distributor or timing issue. Am I on the right track? 98 Suburban K1500 5.7L ....
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Why is the rug on the passenger side of my v10 egg wet. It would appear that it happens after heavy rain....blocked plug somewhere. Have also been using air conditioning alot.... Also could getting egg stuck deep in mud in the spring have anything to do with this...blocked plug?
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I've had an issues with the drivers side light fogging up after damp nights or rain. The dealer replaced it under a TSB but it is still happening I've checked the 3 seals (low beam, high beam, small light on top) and replaced the high beam just to make sure. I'm about to replace the HID in hopes that moisture is getting in through it but for some reason I don't think so. The passenger side is fine and Yaris parked right next to it is fine also so I don't think this is "regular"condensation.
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I have a 1998 Chevrolet Prizm that will not fast idle when it is started in cold weather the first thing in morning. what could be the problem?
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I have a 2005 Toyota Echo with no sunroof.
When there is heavy rain, I end up with extremely damp carpets in the driver's side. There is also water which looks as though it has leaked from running do the driver's side of the windscreen.
I have a strong suspicion that there is a leak in the windscreen, down the driver's side or at the bottom, but are there any other locations or suggestions that could be causing the leak ?
Also, if I take it in, is it possible just to replace the seal round the windscreen, or will the whole windscreen need to be replaced ?
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My 2011 Honda Civic makes a grinding / squeaking sort of noise when I start it after it has been sitting out in the rain - either for several hours or overnight. The noise seems a bit like the noise when you crank the car but the engine doesn't start. It happens after rain or a snow, so it would seem that moisture is getting into a place it shouldn't. The dealership checked it out and couldn't find anything wrong or anything that would prevent it from starting. They also told me that this noise might well go away after the first oil change - that the additives in the oil now are suppose to seal things.
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I have a 2003 Silverado 1500 V6 vin code x with 260000 miles, for about a week now in the morning when its damp out or when it has rained the truck won't start, it cranks fine but will not fire. once it sits for a few hours and everything drys up it fires right up with the first turn of the key.
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At first I thought it was a vacuum that was causing all of this.I was getting a (small leak) code I replaced the vac tubes and the code still came back. But that is not the main problem.I had two problems at the same time I just didn't know it. A vac leak wold not make it run this bad. I had just recently put in new plugs and found one plug loose. It was easy to take out and didn't need to be broken free. The plug was fouled out bad (black) the other 4 were good. It must have been the loose plug all a long that was giving me problems.
I drove the truck a while before I checked the plugs,I had no clue it was loose. When the plug job was done,it ran well (because engine was warm) the next day with a cold start it ran bad,real rough. I was thinking that the loose fouled plug caused the coil pack to over load and go bad.. Now when the weather is wet it makes it way worse. At least when it is dry I can drive it. Do you think the coil packs could be the problem creating the missing and rough idle??
There is only 70k on the truck I bought it new in 2002....
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Every time we get a hard rain, I end up with water on my carpet right at the rear of my Excursion. I'm thinking the weather-stripping has broken down. What is the source for it? All I can find is door weather-stripping.
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After replacing the lower intake manifold gasket, along with the plenum and valve cover gaskets, I've discovered my AC isn't cooling at all. During the above repair I unbolted the compressor and set it on the passenger side out of the way. Checked the low side pressure and had no pressure. Thought I might have loosened something and caused a leak. Hooked my gauges and vacuum pump up and vacuumed for about an hour pulling 29in. Hg. Turned off and after three hours the needle had barely moved. Decided I'd add some R134A until I got enough in to activate the clutch on compressor, read gauges and try to see where I was with it.
Initially I had readings of 100 on low side and only 50 on high side. I'd added about 2/3 of can of refrigerant and my clutch had activated the compressor. Turned off and checked the electrical connection to compressor which appeared okay. Honestly I didn't know what to do next. Fired up the engine again and still had the crazy reading when the compressor clutch kicked in. Actually it was doing what I think is called, "Short Cycling," on and off every five seconds or so. When the compressor was running the gauges would show fifty psi on low side and a hundred on high side. Also the sight glass on my gauges was filled with oil. I'd planned to put some dye in the system to show any leaks I might have, but with the way things were going I didn't get to it. This experience has shown me I've got a lot to learn about auto ac systems!
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When I turn the key over to start the vehicle, the clock resets to 1:00, the back latch clicks and the car kind of makes a grinding sound but not like a churn as if it wanted to start. I don't know if it is just a dying battery or if it would be something else but my car will not start at all.
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