Chevrolet - Blazer :: 1995 - Shifter Goes All The Way Up But Park Does Not Engage
Aug 19, 2013
Have a 95 Chevy blazer 4wd automatic on the column. Tonight I pulled in my house put it in park and turned it off. Took my foot off the brake and it started rolling. I noticed it didn't go in to park. I tried a free times and the shifter goes all the way up but the park doesn't engage and the light doesn't come on. I put it in neutral and used the e brake but am wondering what caused this and if it could be a big problem in the near future.
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Our 2000 blazer LT 4.3L 4 door 4wd has 190,000 km (about 115,000 miles). 3 Button dash control. Transmission was rebuilt at 100,000 miles (main troque converter spline was shot). The 4 wd will not engage in either hi or lo.
Whether moving or not, press 4 wd lo, light stays on. but nothing happens. I cannot hear the transfer case engaging.
Had a previous problem, (withflashing light): found the vacuum hose under battery case was worn through.
I do have a service engine light on the dash. This may be unrelated, because 4wd stopped working long before service engine light came on. I have changed the Oxygen sensor, but no reset the fault yet. Where to start.
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I Have A 2001 Chevy Blazer The 4x4 will not engage. I Press the 4x4 Auto, Hi or Low button on the dash they just keep flashing. you can hear the transfer case engage, but It will not be in 4 wheel drive. I have tried driving around with the light flashing to see if it would engage it did not.
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Ok. I replace my alternator on my 1995 Subaru Legacy Ls. Everything went great. Last thing I did was to connect the positive cable on the battery. When I did it sparked alittle. Well when I got into the car to start it nothing. Turn the key nothing. The knob on the shifter won't go in to get out of park. Neighbor checked my battery said it was fine. But nothing will come on. Nothing.No lights. I had problems with my ignition before. Do you think my ignition went out? Honestly don't know what to think. Some one told me that these cars have a secondary security system. If it goes on you cannot move the knob on the shifter and when you turn the key on nothing?
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My mothers 95 blazer LS coolant is disappearing. A friend said if it's not on the ground than it's in the engine somewhere. oil pan search looked coffee looking?
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Around 8 months ago my blower fan started intermittently blowing and eventually quit. The chain shop near my house told me no question it was the blower motor gone bad. Last night I replaced the blower motor (pretty cheap part) and still nothing. I can feel the engine change idle when I turn the cooler on but nothing blows. My regular mechanic told me he thought it was the resistor based on my description (though I had assumed with a resistor issue it would tend to blow on high speed but not low and this blows never).
The diagnostic fee if it isn't the resistor is $60 an hour so I have a feeling it will be cheaper to just swap out all the parts. I have a feeling it is the relay but I am worried that since I can tell the engine changes idle when I turn the AC on it isn't, though I do not know for sure. Also if it is the relay there are three relays against the firewall and I am not sure which it is as the cases on them all appear to the untrained eye to be identical. Included is a picture. Which relay is the blower relay.
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I drive a 2008 Chevrolet Impala. The car has had some electrical problems going back about a year and a few months that I have neglected to fix. The first problem was with the shifter not being able to move out of park without hitting the button inside the center console to do a shift lock override, which started last August.
The second problem was with the ignition not being able to release the key without hitting a switch inside the ignition, which started back in the Spring. I have just been rolling along promising to eventually address those, but yesterday the car radio stopped functioning. Then this morning the car would not start.
The electrical system comes on just fine (save the radio), but when I go to start it the car just clicks over. I did not leave any lights or switches on, so I am assuming it must be some sort of problem with the electrical system.
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Out of nowhere the car wont go into 5th, so I need to check the cables adjustment and if that doesn't work go from there. This car as of now is nothing more than a daily driver, never driven hard. I bought it last June with 40k on it and as of today it sits at 68k. Happened Friday worked fine on the commute to work, but on the way home once I got on the highway I noticed it would not engage 5th. Does not grind, pop, or anything. It is like the shifter goes into 5th but the cable has been shortened to not engage. This may be the issue but reverse, and 1st-4th work great with no issues.
I also read about the narrow oiling holes for the 5th gear and they are very easy to starve when temperatures get too low, which it has been roughly 0-15* here. I also read that the seal on the transmission gear shift unit (0A4301230H) can get worn out and allow back and forth play in the shift unit. Lastly the 5th gear is pretty weak and teeth like to shear off.
I had installed new shifter bushings the week I bought the car, and the fluid was flushed and replaced with Liqui Moly and their MoS2 additive about 5k miles ago. I'm hoping it is just the cables out of alignment due to the cold, but if not I will explore the options, as I have priced out all of the replacement parts and it'll be around $1k to replace the gear, 5th synchros, shift fork, and the gear shift unit. So a 02Q might not be out of the question.
I tried to manually pull up on the selector and move it right into the 5th position. Would not engage, so I am lead to believe that something is either wrong with the selector shaft of the transmission or the 5th gear itself.
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This problem started about a year ago, was occasional. but over the past few months has rapidly worsened.
Before I can shift out of park I must depress the brake which is suppose to unlock the shifter and engage the brake light, for some reason this doesn't happen sometimes, and it may take up to 20 brake pump actions in order to get it to release the shifter.
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I have been given a 95 S10 Blazer 2dr because the owner could not afford to have it put into the shop. Literally, GIVEN. Anyways, to start off the battery was as dead as it could be so I gave it a good 2 day charge and started troubleshooting. Here are some symptoms:
Problem cranking (acts like its not getting proper fuel, or maybe too much? However, I don't smell fuel like its flooding out)
IF, it cranks, it will idle very roughly and usually die shortly after
IF it doesn't die shortly after cranking, any attempt at using the gas pedal causes a rough/irregular throttle response usually followed by it dying.
The VERY first time I cranked it after charging the battery, it cranked perfectly and drove/idled as smooth as ice. I let it idle for about 30 minutes making sure it wouldn't overheat or anything else. Everything did fine, I killed it and cranked it again later THEN encountering the problems described above. It's been the same since.
So, some of my guesses (keeping in mind I'm not very familiar with these vehicles) some type of sensor (crank/idle), bad vacuum leak or a loose connection somewhere in the electronics. Looking for some type of confirmation before I waste money throwing parts at it.
Also, included a short video of what it's like trying to crank and running. [URL] ....
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Our cars shifter does not engage properly to Drive position. It comes down to D but the car just revs up or does not pick speed when we hit gas. we have to adjust/move it up and down to engage it. other position seems to be working fine. what could be the problem?
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I've got a "new" Blazer -95 4.3 vin W about a month ago. It has run about 170,000 km.
But now it looks like it was a bad buy, it runs bad. The rpm starts jumping between 1500 - 2500. Suddenly the break and ABS warning lights in dashboard lights up, and sometimes all black out and it stalls.
At first it started acting like this when towing a trailer on the highway, doing 80 km/h. But now it does it at any speed.
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My reverse lights and back up alarm will not engage unless i hold up on the shifter while in reverse the only thing i found was a adjuster for the indicator....
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Been doing a lot of repair's on our 1994 Chevy blazer. It's a 4.3 v6. We finally got her running and now it seems like it can't take high speeds for very long without over heating and eventually smoking some. Had to bypass heater core, it's clogged. That worked with temp. Also replaced radiator and cap. Replaced both heads, took thermostat out. That worked with temp too. It has a new water pump, new exhaust manifolds, has good spark plugs, oil changed and oil filter. Kind of at a loss.
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My mom's 95 shifter is slowly getting worse. Right now it's at the point where we have to hunt for gears just to put it into park or reverse or d/od. It's not stiff like the rest of ours, hers is all sloppy and loose. She says it's been doing this for a while, but i think it got worse when i pulled her cluster out to change the light bulbs. I say this because i couldn't get the needle cable un done, so i just let the cluster rest on it while i was changing the bulbs, which put a little bit of tension on it.
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Well just as stated above...basically when I put my brakes on, my shifter will refuse to go from Park to Reverse. I have to open the little "Shift lock" cap and manually press that button to be able to go to reverse...or sometimes back from D to P. It just started doing this a week ago.
2006 Sonata
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Not sure what the deal is, but I was cleaning the car today with the radio on (not the car). All of a sudden the radio turns off. I thought it was the battery. So I go to turn it on and I get *click - click-click-click*. I pick up jumper cables, and go to throw the car into neutral to push it out of the garage, but that shifter is stuck in Park.
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2015 F-250 4X4 CC gas truck. 6R140 Transmission..
My truck has 6500 miles on it and since day one when I put my shifter in (D) there is a 3-4 sec delay in the transmission to engage every morning when I start out, rest of the time there is no delay even when the truck sits all day at work (about 9 hours). I have read in 2011 (?) that the transmission was loosening it's prime and would cause this problem, so how it's got me thinking.
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I have a 1995 ford mustang with a 3.8 v6, and have recently discovered an electrical problem. First I thought it was just the headlight switch. We replaced it, but looking at the old one, we found that it had gotten so hot, it melted all the plastic off the wires, and that this caused the switch to burn out. I replaced the old one with a new one but it still gets super hot. I'm afraid to drive my car at night for the reason that my lights might fail me in the dark.
Another problem, I'm unsure if they are associated, but it did appear around the same time I replaced the headlight switch. When my car is running, it is impossible to shift it from the park. The button on the shifter (its an automatic transmission) refuses to give, and the result is that my car can only be shifted into gear by turning the key to turn on the ignition position while pressing in the button on the shifter, and then starting my car and driving off. Another thing that i'm sure is associated with this problem is that the cruise control will not be turned off by the brake. It will disengage the cruise when braking but re-engages after my foot leaves the brake. These last two problems began at the same time.
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The Headlights on my 2001 Chevy Blazer will come on by themselves. The Headlight switch is in the off position. It will Switch between the daytime running lights and nighttime lights. What Is causing This?
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2002 Chev trailblazer, I have had the throttle body cleaned.... Sometimes after short stops, my vehicle will not crank, some times I have to step on the gas several times and it will finally crank, it sets no codes, no check engine lights come on. If it sits overnight, or for more than 20 minutes it cranks right up.
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