Chevrolet - Blazer :: 1991 - AC Compressor Dying - Belt Making Screaming / Squeaky Noise
Jun 21, 2012
My belt was making a screaming squeaky noise to wake up the dead. I used dish soap on it and it got quiet as long as I remember to bring the dish soap. My mechanic looked at my AC and told me I need a new compressor (he is a friend I trust) Now the AC comp turns but the belt seems to go on and off. And, the weird thing is-the AC feels great! Am I to expect any moment for it to just stop working? So, what to expect from my dead or dying compressor?
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Immediately after I had four new tires installed on a 2000 Blazer 4wd, the front wheel bearings started making noise. At the time I thought the noise was from the new tires. A few thousand miles later my mechanic told me I needed two reman hub assemblies (sealed bearings) for ~$350 apiece plus labor.
Is there anything that the tire shop (independent not chain) could have done (accidentally or otherwise) to damage the bearings during the tire installation? I have to get 4 tires for my 93 Chevrolet Caprice and don't wish to repeat the experience.
Whoops, forgot to mention this happened at 56k miles when the truck was five years old. Is it possible that the bearings were borderline and the process of mounting the wheels put them over the edge? For instance, someone being a little over enthusiastic with an impact wrench.
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It's fine when it's dry...is it usually just the serpentine belt? Is this a common issue? Just want to make sure before i replace it.
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This is about a 2000 gmc sierrra 2500 truck I purchased with 194k a few years ago. It now has 232k. Whenever I go from a complete stop, the noise sounds as if it comes from the rear area. It sort of has a sliding umph noise, as if a slide hammer is going from front to back with a resounding stop as I move forward. I have checked the driveline, the rearend, the bed attaching bolts, and most everything in the rear section for tightness.
I had the bed loaded heavily once and it seemed to not make the noise. When I tow a boat or tow nothing it makes this noise with a sort of bang or stopping sensation at the end like the slide of something that then stops. Who wants to ride under my truck for a diagnosis? Could it be in the transmission? ha, it could be anything we all know that !
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My 1976 Chevy Blazer K5, runs and drives excellent. But when I take it up into the mountains 4 wheeling, there is a problem. Any time that one or the other of the front tires goes up on a hill and there is any twist to the frame, I get this constant grinding noise. If I stop and put it in park, it still grinds and wont stop until the front tires on the same plane. What could this be?
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My 4WD light does not come on but the warning light to service it does which leads me to believe the 2WD is not engaged. I have a 2001 Chevy Blazer. Also the seems to be a "rubbing" noise emanating from the right from while driving.
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1997 chevy balzer 4.3 6cyc. Oil pressure drop from 40 to 10 and making a knocking sound no loss in power. About 3 weeks ago had oil change and new oil lines and gaskets put on because i had some leaks no noise or problems then just was losing oil then this happened first of all does this sound like a main bearing gave away second should i go back to where i had this work done and complain could they have done something to cause this they are very good and honest mechanics and a reliable auto repair mechanic company the blazer has 180,000 miles or do you think it just because of the mileage it was bound to happen i hate to blame something on someone if was just a coincidence but does this sound like the main bearing?
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2000 Blazer 4wd, automatic, 122000 miles
In the last couple of weeks, if the Blazer isn't driven for 3 or more days, there is a slight knocking noise for 15 to 20 seconds after start up. Oil level and pressure are fine. I'm guessing it's the lifters.....
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I'm working on getting my GMC seirra 1500 5.0 L running. Last fall When I was making a trip to another town, it broke down. When it broke down it smelt like plastic was burning, I was unable to figure out what the smell was.
First I though it was a bad battery connection, or that the starter had went.
I changed the Battery, made sure the cables were good. changed the starter and it still doesn't work.
I know the battery is working for sure because There is power to the lights so I can turn on the brights. There is no power to anywhere else on the dash though other then the icon that shows the brights are on.
When I try to turn the engine over, nothing happens at all. Doesn't even make a clicking noise.
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I "think" I may have a bad wheel bearing. Problem is, which one is it? The code reader I own does not read for ABS. The noise appears around 30 mph. It increased slightly, at higher speeds. I tried jacking each side of the truck up and checking for play and noise. There is no play. The only thing I can say is that the passenger side wheel seems heavy to spin. But spins.
The drivers side wheel spins slightly more free, but has a faint sound like the brake shoe is touching the rotor. I drove it and tried turning left and right. The noise does not seem to get worse or better when turning either direction. I called my local Auto Zone, and they only told me to do what I have already done. So I am at a loss. What else can I do? My Blazer is a 2000, 4X4, Automatic.
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Think i have an exhaust leak in a 1999 s10 blazer lt 4x4 4 door. the loudest spot where i can hear the exhaust noise at cold start and idle, is the passenger side right behind the front tire. on cold mornings where you can see the exhaust smoke prior to warming up i cannot see anything coming from this area. non mechanic types have suggested either the y pipe, or where the y pipe meets the header. Would both have to be replaced to fix this problem if this is the case? and how intensive is this to fix? meaning would the whole motor have to be pulled to remove the entire exhaust piping to have it brazed? my dad is a mechanic, so the tools I've got and his know-how, just need to know what to do? Any definitive way to tell where an exhaust leak is, beyond having a friend cup their hand over the tail pipe, while they look for it..
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Auto facts: 2000 Blazer, Mileage: 196,000 Engine: V6, 4.3L Transmission: Automatic Drivetrain: 4WD, Single climate control
Recently had my AC compressor assembly replaced, renewed accumulator/receiver drier, orifice tube, recharge, etc. The AC was cooling well below par after the repairs. Then is started alternately blowing hot (12 sec), cool (3 sec), etc. with a "spooky" creaking noise coming from within the middle dash during each transition (blend door?).
The mechanic charged the system again and agrees there is a refrigerant leak "somewhere" to account for the marginal cooling capability but the dye put into the system before the repair is not showing up anywhere that he can see (so far, having it checked again today). So, are these 2 separate issues? What are the steps of diagnosis and repair possibilities?
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Since it's "auto repair season" in my driveway, I was working on my daughter's car (2001 Accent, 1.6 GSi) and noticed that the air conditioning compressor makes a noise (like a cross between a burble and a shriek) when it cuts out. I'm assuming it's the head unloader and was wondering if it's supposed to make a noise that's quite that loud or if maybe it's getting low on refrigerant - the compressor runs quietly when it's turning and the clutch doesn't make any strange noises.
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We have a 2010 Hyundai Accent, with low miles (10,000), and the A/C Compressor is making a "growling" noise. The only way to explain the noise is when you hear a human try to immiate the sound of a dog growling. That's exactly what it sounds like.
First thing in the morning it doesn't make the noise to much, but as you drive for a bit you will start to hear it. Sometimes it's really loud, sometimes quieter. When you shut the A/C off, it will continue for a few seconds then stop.
The service department told me it was the compressor and it is, "pretty normal on the cars." How is that normal though? It sounds awful.
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Pretty sure the a/c clutch on my LT1 is going - making lots of noise when working and also when not.
I've heard on some forums that this could be a bearing? Is it advisable for me to replace the entire clutch or just this bearing?
Either way, I assume I'll have to pull the clutch for which I think I'll need two special tools:
(1) clutch holder tool to break nut loose.
(2) pulley puller.
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I charged my AC a few weeks ago. After I added oil it began to make noise. Like metal on metal or a bad bearing. Could be the clutch pulley, bad bearing from what I've read. I don't want to replace it, nor do I want to spend the time and money putting in a bypass pully. I'd like to simply bypass the AC compressor by putting a shorter belt on. Problem is I can't seem to find any clear info on how and what size belt to use. I see a few saying it can be done and one saying it can't. Also, is the 2.4 the same as the 3.0 in regards to the belt diagram?I need to fix this asap, before it seizes up and I lose the belt or damage other stuff.
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The A/C in my truck stopped working last year, and this year I intend to fix it. I believe the problem is with the compressor clutch because it was making noise as it would engage or disengage. It was making this noise for a good year or so, and then one day the noise stopped and I have no A/C. So I am only assuming its the clutch.
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My brother and i had replaced the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley oh his 1999 taurus wagon with a 3.0l and after we changed them we put a new belt on it and after about 10 mins of running it started to runoff the alternator pulley put the old pulleys back on and it runs fine except a noisy squeal so we put the new ones back on again and same problem except after about 35 mins it ran off again is there something we are missing this is getting expensive replacing serpentine belts. Like i said with the old pulleys it runs fine just very noisy new ones runs quiet just blows out serp. belts
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I own a 2008 santa fe SE, the belt tensioner start to making noise recently, just wonder if it's covered under the warranty so I don't have to pay out-of-pocket to get it fixed. This car have 68000 miles so far.
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I just bought a used 2009 corolla, turns out a few weeks in, I am getting the infamous water pump/ac compressor clicking noise from the drive belt area.
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My 91 chevy 2500 has a fairly loud tapping sound under the passenger side dash, I used a mechanic's steth-a-scope & think i narrowed it down to left of the blower motor on the inside of the firewall. The clicking/tapping occurs every time the ignition key is turned on for about 10 clicks turn the key off & it repeats the 10 clicks again. Its consistent & very annoying.
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