Chevrolet - Astro :: 1999 - Loud Rattling Noises Under The Hood
Jun 22, 2014
My 1999 Astro van recently started making LOUD rattling noises under the hood. No previous problems, ran great up till pulling into my driveway. It does have 160,000 miles on it, but has always been excellently maintained. Towed it to dealership where they told me that "by the sound of it" it would need a new engine. This van is fully loaded, power everything, leather interior, paint job is great, everything works. Breaks my heart that I may have to junk it. So, the big question is, junk it or get a new motor?
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I have a 97 Grand Prix GTP with 191,000+ miles. For the past couple of months, I have had a loud groaning sound coming from somewhere under the hood when I steer the car in either direction. This groaning is most noticeable at idle or very low speeds and when the car is first started up in the morning. It seems to get less noticeable at higher speeds and after the car has warmed up a while. Over the past few days, at idle/low speed and when cold, there is now more resistance when steering in either direction. Power steering pump or rack and pinion? (Hoping this is more PS pump than rack and pinion). The rack and pinion was replaced in 2009.
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The wife drove the Excursion (V10) to work today and it ran normal and didn't have any loud noises coming from under the hood. When she started the engine to return home it immediately started knocking. This is not a ping, but a knock. Not a loud heavy knock, but much louder than a ping. It has a fast frequency, seems too fast to be a rod knocking. The frequency is similar to a valve issue, but the knock seems to be too heavy for lifters. Oil looks good. Just changed out 2 weeks ago. Truck is driven everyday.
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Our 46K mile 2012 Tiguan starting making some pretty loud whining/growling/rattling engine noises recently so I took it to the dealer shop and they diagnosed a bad accessory belt tensioner. However, they didn't have one in stock and would have to order it. Well, that's fine but it's a 300 mile round trip to the dealer so I came home and ordered one from ECS Tuning.
I found a copy of an official VW (ETKA?) procedure on the web for replacing the tensioner for the TSI in a Golf so I suspect the procedure for a Tiguan is similar: remove the bolt for the secondary water pump and move the pump out of the way, remove the end bolt on the tensioner mounting shaft, remove the three bolts from the pendulum/dogbone, support the engine, remove the top two bolts from the passenger side engine mount, drop the engine about 2 inches and pull the tensioner out.
To be honest, I was very surprised that the dealership didn't have a tensioner in stock. This was a rather large and pretty good dealership shop (three service advisors). I guess accessory tensioner failure is really rare on the TSI.
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I'm working on a 1999 Chevy Astro 4.3L with an occasional crank, no start condition. On any given day, this vehicle will start right up and run fine, although some days it will start right up and have a part-throttle stutter; not a dead miss, but a stutter when accelerating that sometimes goes away. When it has the stutter, disconnecting the MAP sensor will cause the stutter to go away completely. I replaced the MAP sensor, but nothing changed. Today, it's back to its crank, no start attitude problem. The basics check out fine: good, strong spark at the wires, 60-65 psi of fuel pressure, and I even pulled the plenum to verify fuel is firing from the injectors. Everything seems to be happening as it should except that it will not start and run. I even tried doing the Passlock relearn procedure on it, despite spark and fuel happening when it should, one or both of which would normally be eliminated by the security system, but to no avail. What could possibly cause this here-today-gone-tomorrow no-start condition?
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99 Chevy Astro with 93000+ miles. Only recent problem (one week ago) was left lights on for 4hrs on a new battery and almost completely drained battery, then, vehicle cranked without a jump. This AM started van to go to work and there was a definite "whirring noise" from under the hood. Popped the hood and sounded like coming from the brake master cylinder area vs. AC compressor area-hard to tell though. AC has not worked for 2 yrs. Noise increased in proportion to revving of engine. Likewise, noise continued while driving, although seemed to not be as loud when engine warmed up. Temp outside 34. Fluid levels OK. Where the noise is coming from? Also not sure if related or a concern: brake pedal has a slight "stick" to it when initially pressing the pedal, for ~ last 6 mths. give or take Brakes seem to work fine.
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'91 Blazer, S10, 2wd, 300,000 mi ....when weather cold, and car cold, I hear a loud slapping sound that I thought was a fan belt, but checked and they are ok...when car warms up, or when weather warm, I don't hear the slapping..... sounds like belt against plastic,,,,???
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Transmission comes out of gear and has a loud whirring sound when in reverse, but not every time. it has happened when driving at about 60 mph (twice) Sometimes it happens a couple times in a row sometimes it is ok for a couple weeks.
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I bought the car( like six months ago) there has always been a loud humming noise from the fuel pump ( I'm pretty sure it is the fuel pump anyways) not the normal whirring noise the fuel pump makes but a hum you can hear about ten feet away. Had no issues till just lately when the afternoons are well into a hundred degrees. That is when my car starts giving me issues. After one of these hot days on my ride home from work, I had just come off the highway and stopped at a stop light when I felt the engine bogging out, the engine stalled and I had to push it to the side of the road.
Its worth mentioning that this humming noise is much louder in the heat than the cool morning then when I turned the key to hear the fuel pump(auto fuel inject) it was louder than it has ever been, and would keep stalling on the way home, I had at the most a quarter tank of gas (gas boy is busted/stuck I think) the fuel pump is bad? Could it be the sock? I thought I read somewhere that my girl pump uses gas to cool down, and that having the tank any less than a quarter could lead to the fuel pump overheating????
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I'm absolutely clueless when it comes to cars. I bought a 99 Carolla with 130k miles from a family friend, Randy, who owns a repair shop. The car was brought in with a blown engine as its previous owner ignored its oil needs. Randy put in an engine with 90k miles and tightened the motor mounts. It made the 14 hour trek from Nashville to my new home in Houston, but now the bottom makes a rattling noise going over any bump. I'm not talking big potholes- even tiny cracks cause it to rattle. Some notes:
The exhaust sounds normal. The sound is coming from in front of me at ground level beneath the hood. Just took it for a test drive and I heard it from both sides as well as the middle. I don't feel it through the steering wheel, pedal, or seat. The only thing indicative of a problem is the noise. If I had the radio on at full blast, I wouldn't know there was an issue.
The check engine light also came on. I took the car to AutoZone and got two errors- the first, P0505, was an air control valve control circuit (probable causes per AutoZone: open or short circuit condition, poor electrical connection, and/or failed IAC motor) and the second, P0420, was catalyst system efficiency below threshold- bank 1 (causes: air leak in exhaust before rear HO2S (heated oxygen sensor), AF sensor error, fuel system fault, and/or faulty catalytic converter).
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I have a 1999 Ford Escort, five speed. Until recently, I have not had any issues with it, but its age is beginning to show.
This past week, I've noticed a rattling noise from under the hood when idling, such as at a stoplight. Once I start moving, I can no longer hear the noise, though it is possible the road noise is hiding it.
What this is? Is it serious, or just an old car making noise?
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2001 chevrolet astro van won't start, I have spark and fuel. compression ok.
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we have a 1995 chevy astrovan. Some days it runs just fine and then others it cuts out repeatedly when we slow down or brake. It?s been to the mechanic a million times and he can?t find the problem?
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The air bag warning light is often, but not always, ON in my 1998 Chevy Astro. Unfortunately, it is ON whenever I seem to have a chance to bring it in for state inspection. My mechanic of many years has been unable to determine the cause.
(Note: An earlier problem with the battery draining was taken care of by turning the Dome Light button to the Off position and leaving it there permanently.)
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My wife drives a 1995 Chevy Astro. It has twice now stopped running with no warning. This happened while driving down the road. The headlights and engine cut out, but the turn signals, power windows, radio display, and such have power. Once it sits for a couple of hours, it starts right up and runs fine for weeks.
Is there an electrical connection of some kind between the fuel pump and the headlights? What might be going wrong?
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2003 astro - misses and chugs and clunks until i get up to 40 miles per hr...
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I've taken it to a half dozen mechanics, none can diagnose the problem. From a cold start the engine idles well, but once it warms up and the fast idle setting shuts off, it begins to vibrate quite a bit. I rebuild that included an all new fuel injection system, new ignition parts (including distributor, replaced at a later date,) new wire to alternator (the old one had cracked insulation,) and a new mass airflow sensor (swapped in from a parts van-no effect.)
Basically everything is new except for the sensors (crank sensor, idle air, throttle position, etc.,) and the fuel filter and pump. I'm not getting any codes, and at least two mechanics said it had good fuel pressure. It FEELS like a vacuum problem on a carburetor vehicle, but I had the vacuum harness checked as well, and everything seems to be in order.
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I've recently been having battery drain issues with my 2002 Chevy Astro. After taking it to a local garage I was informed that nothing was wrong with it other than it needing a new battery. They put a new battery in and within two weeks of the van not being used the battery was dead. I did a bit of research online and learned that something may be drawing power while the van is off, and that I could do a fuse test with a multimeter. After performing this test I narrowed down the drain to being related to the following fuse:
19 Instrument Panel Radio: ATC(Main Feed), 2000 Series (Standby)
The only things that seem to be on this circuit are the radio, cd player and some elements of the instrument panel (e.g. odomoeter). I'd like to fix this problem but I'm sort of stuck as to what I should start testing from here. Today I disconnected the radio and cd player and tried performing the multimeter test again, with the fuse back in place. It appeared that there was still excess power being used with the vehicle off.
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I have a 95 Chevy astrology van that I've owned for about a year. On occasion (about once a month) when I start it, the battery gauge stays in the red and all the lights are dim. After driving a bit I can stop the van and restart it, and the battery gauge normally shoots up to normal, and lights are all bright again. Don't have any problems outside of that, until now. For the last 4 day, my battery gauge has refused to pop out of the red, and lights are always dim. I can drive for a couple hundred miles and nothing changes. Last night, as I left work, it ran like it has been with low battery and then just died. There is no clicking, no "whirring" sound the starter normally makes, the battery just died. I'm on a very small budget and can't afford a shop, or both battery and alternator. What are your thoughts on this problem and where should I invest my money? As a side note, battery cables and posts are cleaned off, and are bolted securely. Nothing loose and no corrosion.
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I just had a rebuilt engine put in my 1999 Chevy Astro. However, when I got it back the lighter and auxiliary lighters don't work. I checked the fuses under the driver's side dash and the one for the lighter looked good. I change it anyhow, and it still doesn't work. Anything else I should check? I am planning a long trip and would like to use my radar detector.
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I have a 1997 Astro van and recently I shut the back doors (two door version) and now they will not open/unlock. I tried the power locks as well as the key. I read where you can take off the speaker cover in the door and reach thru and unlock/release from there. That did not work either. Not sure WHY Chevy decided not to put interior release handles. Any trick to opening the doors so I can see what the problem is?
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