Chevrolet - 3500 :: 1989 V8 - Stalled When Decelerating And Would Not Start
Aug 6, 2012
I have a '89 Chevy 350 v8 in my boat. It starts fine, but then stalled when decelerating, and would not start. I smelled some gas fumes when trying to start it after it had died. It started up fine the next day without problems. The distributor was just replaced so I know that is good. Not sure if this is related, but occasionally it will diesel a couple cycles when I turn it off. Could this be the carburetor, or something else?
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I wait for the glow plug to stop before attempting to start. Then it's like Aaron Tippin sings, "sometimes she runs, sometimes she don't". It turns over fine. When it's running, it runs good. But most times it won't start. The fuel is being stopped somewhere. The in tank pump is working..I can hear it when I turn on the key. What else can I check?
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My 2006 Chevy Express 3500 (cutaway) 6.0L won't start when the outside temperature is below 35 degrees. Warmer than 35, it starts right up. Seems to be a fuel problem, as it fires, but doesn't keep running. I can start it by fooling around with the position of the gas pedal, but usually it takes a few minutes of cranking. My mechanic thought it was low fuel pressure and replaced the fuel pump- a thousand dollars later, it is no different.
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It was running fine. tried to start and it just turns over. Also the fuel gauge doesn't move from an 1/8th of a tank. I took the filter line off, turned the key, and gas shoots out but the injectors don't spray at all. I poured some gas in the tbi and still just turns over without even trying to start.
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I have an 89 Chevy Van. It has been sitting for 4 weeks without being started. I went to start it and no lights or radio and didn't even try to roll over. I figured the battery was dead so I went to jump it. With the cables connected the van started but once I removed a cable the van turn off! Is it the battery or is there another problem?
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My truck hasn't run for over a year and no one seems to be able to tell me why. The fuel pump supposedly has 10 lbs of pressure, it has new fuel pump relay, new throttle body, and probably more new things (can't remember exactly). It will start up normally and then it will act like it's not getting fuel and within seconds die. If I keep my foot on the gas and kind of pump it (I know it's EFI) it will try to keep running, but will die, and it really gets rough toward the end like the whole engine's going to fall out. The truck has 300K+ on it but the engine was replaced about 10,000 miles ago. It still has a lot of original equipment.
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Chevy Celebrity ... Engine is 2.8 mpfi and I have been able to get it to start by pumping the gas pedal while cranking and keeping it running by having the gas pedal depressed slightly but as soon as I let off the gas the car will die. It has a new starter, new fuel filter, half a tank of gas, new battery...
Check engine light came on and i did the paperclip trick and it showed code 43 which was knock sensor.
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This S10 has 4 wheel drive and the V6 engine and has 88,000 miles on it. Just about everything except the engine has been replaced because it was a work and plow car and took a beating. It is a great plow car, by the way. Recently a cloud of smoke comes out of the exhaust when you start the engine that has been sitting overnight. Mechanic says it is just old, but someone said that replacing the umbrella seals might do the trick. Stopped at my local auto parts store and they had never heard of umbrella seals.
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1989 2.8L FI Celebrity Wagon. Normally runs fine (for 190K miles) but occasionally won't start. Turns over fine but make no attempt to start - like no fuel or spark. I'm guessing an electrical problem as it will start instantly and just fine a day or two later. Where to start looking for the problem?
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1.5L with automatic and 90K miles. In December going 60 mph on the highway at steady speed the car stalled, would not restart, towed home, tried new fuel pump relay, made no difference, put old relay in and it started, ran great for 6 months and now after filling up the tank, I hit a bump and went around a corner and it stalled again, same scenario, towed home and it started the next day. Been running fine since. Ground on fuel pump/ bad gas? another relay in the fuel pump circuit?
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I suspect there are very stinky mushrooms growing in the debris inside the ventilation system. We live in Florida and the van sits outside in an area in our yard where stinky mushrooms grow at certain times of the year. I have tried spraying Lysol in the outside vent with the fan on full. That seems to have worked over time but can I dump some vinegar in there without harming anything?
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97 chev PU 3500 350 5.7 stops and starts while driving. Complete tune up ,Fuel pump ,filter , dist. and rotor.
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My 1995 Chevy Silverado 1-ton diesel stalls with no warning at various times while driving, such as at intersections, on the freeway, coasting, idling. It may go days or weeks without doing it, then all of a sudden stall eight times in one day. My husband says it has sediment, such as rust, in the fuel tank causing it to clog the fuel line. We've replaced the fuel filter twice, and we keep the tank topped off with gas, but it still does this out of the blue at times. I no longer trust the vehicle and will not haul the horse trailer using it, which is why I have the vehicle in the first place. By the way, the problem began after the truck sat for several cold winter months due to drained batteries. After we replaced the batteries to get it running again, it began stalling like this on a semi-regular basis. If it is rust or sediment in the fuel tank, what can we do to fix that? Could it be something else causing the problem?
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Have had the vehicle since 24k miles - currently at 43k and just started doing this in the past 5k miles. When cruise control is engaged, and we go over a bump (of decent size) the cruise disengages. Perhaps a bad connection with a sensor? I do not know the cruise system that well on this vehicle and would like to know where I should start looking.
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94 Chevy W-4 wheel-lift wrecker 5.7L TBI4l80e trans
Had a run of about 100 miles round trip on Wednesday. On the way back running at 65 mph on the interstate, got a couple of quick muffler-end back fires and engine died. Coasted to shoulder. Had memory of almost exact same incident last year and it was dead ignition module. Fortunately had a spare (used) module in glovebox. Swapped it out and engine started right up. Remainder of trip didn't quit, but ran very rough, lots of stumbling and getting it up to 60 mph was a struggle. Also when I got on surface roads it died twice when I was sitting stationary. It would restart, BUT only after cycling key; if I just turned to the key to "start" from "on" it would crank but not fire.
Limped it to my tow buddy's shop where I freeload and told him the tale. He said, "throw those old spare modules away and get a new one". Called the local parts house and had them send two, one for installation and one for glovebox. Took for test drive and appeared to be running okay except idle was a bit low. Couple of hours later went on a call and first stop sign I came to, went "blip" and I'm dead in the water again. Same story as earlier, must turn key off and back on to get it to fire. Drove rest of day without incident. Yesterday, no issues all day, drove total of about 120 miles both highway speed and surface. Gassed up this morning and mpg was above average (yay!), actually about .5 above average which is significant improvement (about 6%). Success?
Today died four times while sitting still. Same having to cycle key for it to fire. Did some quicky t/s to satisfy my curiosity about the key cycle thing. With truck running, pulled fuel pump fuse to kill truck. Then reinserted and it started up without having to turn key to off. Tried same thing by pulling one of the module plugs to simulate loss of signal to ignition. Reconnected and again fired up without key cycling.
No codes at any time since this came up.
Swapped out the module since I had bought a spare, no change.
Ohmd the ignition coil and no problems noted. So far, only dies sitting still at idle.
Additional info:
Plug wires, cap, and rotor <1000 miles. Distributor low miles and negligible play in shaft. Pickup coil checks right in middle of ohm range. None of these, of course, should need to have the ignition key cycled to restart if they caused a stall.
Next up will be replacing ignition relay (had to order), but I'm not very optimistic.
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I have a small leak of greenish fluid (appears to be coolant) coming from a silver/aluminum tube that runs the length of my van, just above the left rear transaxle. The leak seems to be in the tube, near a support that keeps the tubing flush against the undercarriage. It is a slow leak, but it is dripping onto the transaxle/transfer case, and is beginning to leave a small puddle on my driveway -- gets a little worse each time I drive. I haven't noticed much loss of coolant in the reservoir, so not sure what this is and how to fix it. I have a photo. I am thinking the tubing might be part of the heating system.
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02 Chevy 3500 quits while driving, all electrical shuts off. This is my work van, I am a Honda mechanic and can't figure it out. I need my truck for work on Monday! Think it might be ignition switch??
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I have a 1998 chevy 3500 2wd pickup with a 454 engine. The check engine light is on. I have had the codes read and they were for a MAF and MAP sensors. I have replaced both. The check engine light is still on saying that I have a bad MAF sensor. I replaced it again. The check engine light still is on. What else should I look at to fix this problem??
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2003 Chevy Silverado 3500 driver side headliner noise. There is a buzz coming from what appears to be a small 1.5" diameter plastic fan cover. What is the fan for and can it be disabled?
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2006 Chevy Silverado 3500 (crew cab dually) with Duramax diesel and Allison transmission. Every time transmission is shifted into Park while the engine is running, the engine will shut off. The engine is able to restart, but this has never happened before.
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I have a problem with the front rotors on my '01 Impala warping. The pulsing is really bad when decelerating from highway speed. They will last maybe a month after installing before they start to warp again. I purchase my parts at the local NAPA store. Is there something I could be doing wrong during installation or it bad parts (cheap material)?. Could it be an issue with other front end components?. The car has 173,000 miles on it.
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