Chevrolet - 1500 :: 2004 - No Pressure At Idle Just Below 40 When Driving
May 22, 2014
2004 1500 5.3 low oil pressure after using Lucas engine stop leak. No pressure at idle just below 40 when driving. Replace the sending unit and pressure improved for about a day. Just had a manual pressure gauge hooked up and it shows the same as cluster. No engine noise at all. I was informed that using Seafoam or another solvent could loosen up build up and cause damage. Trying to find out if using an engine flush machine may support. I am assuming that the cause of the low oil pressure is due to build up from using several qt of the stop leak over a four months. I am the only owner and I have always changed the oil according to schedule and have always used Valvoline synthetic.
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I have an 88 Chevy C1500. It started showing low oil pressure about a year ago and I went with a heavier oil and oil pressure go a bit better.
Just changed the oil and now, when I start the engine cold, I show normal oil pressure. As the engine temp increases, the oil pressure goes down. When engine is fully warm, oil pressure shows 0 and "check gauges" light comes on.
Decided to put even heavier oil in but guy at parts house said it was probably the sending unit, not a worn out engine. I tend to agree because I drove it more and never hear any ticking or valve noise. Too cheap to replace the sending unit.
From the symptoms above, does thus sound right? Could the sensor somehow fail as engine temperature increases? Everything I read says oil pump failure is very rare.
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I have a 1993 Chevy C1500, and about 3 weeks ago I started noticing that whenever it gets to temp I start hearing a knocking coming from the valves, and I lose almost all oil pressure. I also lose a lot of power. What could be causing this? Am I looking at a full on engine rebuild?
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My 1995 chevy c1500 cuts out at idle or the moment the brakes are applied to shift into drive. I replaced the passenger wheel cylinder and bled the brakes and it ran fine for a few hours, then the idle problem stated again. I have check the map senor and a few other electronic component as my mechanic said the problem " might be electrical."
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I have a 97 Chevy K1500 truck that i have been having problem with starting. Sometimes it will start. When it does the idle is rough. When i put in in gear it almost acts like it will shut off. Then it comes back and it drives fine. If it shut it off it may or may not start. I had the distributor cap a rotor replaced. Then I replaced the spark plugs and wires. Still does not start. It seems like it is getting too much fuel. I pulled the fuel pump relay and the truck would start then die out. When i put the relay back in truck does not start. I am not sure what might be the next piece to look at. I was thinking the MAP sensor or the throttle position sensor. So far i have not had any codes come up.
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I have a 2000 Ford Taurus V6 DOHC w/170K miles. When engine heats up, oil pressure light comes on, but only when RPM fall below 1500 or at idle. There is a burnt smell sometimes after driving the car. I do not see froth or coolant in the oil. Car burns a little oil, but no more than it has been for the last 50K miles. Just had oil and filter changed 300 miles ago; I was using 10W-30 but I believe the mechanic used 5W-30. (Also, if I drive more than 45 minutes, the "low coolant" light comes on-- however, the engine is not overheating, and the radiator/reservoir are full.) What part(s) I should order first? Oil pressure sensor? Oil pump? (If at all possible, I need to repair myself, as I simply cannot afford my mechanic's hourly rates right now.)
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I just bought a 2009 Chevy Silverado , have only had for a week and have noticed an irregular fluctuation in idle, also the transmission has lack of a better term jarred a few times and seems to downshift rough sometimes. The irregular idle seems to be worse when the ac is on, I can hear the compressor kick on and off alot. And just once I was driving and tried to accelerate and it didn't want to very much. Factory warranty is out and dealer didn't give option for extended warranty. They have agreed to look at it but aren't willing to do much other than clean injectors and throttle body.
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After my truck sits overnight it starts immediately and goes to fast idle for a few seconds, then ithe idle starts dropping until it gets to approx. 400 RPM.If I drive off immediately it will correct itself in a short while, otherwise I need to baby the engine speed until it runs on its own - usually five minutes.I cleaned the MAF and performed a MAF tap test with no success.
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I am having issues with my 2002 chevy cavalier.
The car occasionally surges forward while idle and revs up to 1500 rpm approximately occasionally when the air conditioner is on... if the brake is not applied I move forward.. the lurches are continuous every 3 seconds or so.
I am getting a code for an evap leak.. I have replaced the purge solenoid valve, gas cap, and checked all connections with no luck... slightly decreased gas mileage has occurred.
A little bit of a slick substance has been leaking from the car.. it has the consistency of water, but leaves a slight brown tinge on concrete.
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1999 Chevrolet Silverado 4.3 ltr ....
I was riding along the other day at about 40 mph and my engine just DIED. No sputtering, jerking, lurching, etc.. I have a 1999 Silverado 1500 4.3.
Since then I've tried swapping the fuel filter out. When I took the old one off I did the blow test and could barely get a bit of air through it. Put in a brand new one. Still won't start. It cranks but it won't turn over. It's like it is starved for gas I suppose.
All electrical faculties are functioning seemingly normal. (Of course I have to charge the battery every time I want to try and crank it because it doesn't charge itself because IT WON'T CRANK!)
I've had to change the fuel pump twice in the past 2 years. The last time was about 5 months ago.
For the past week or two my "Change Engine Oil" light has been on even though I've had my oil changed a month ago.
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can i adjust idle on car, seems to be running faster without using gas pedal.
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My truck it's shakes the dash shakes the steering wheel shakes whenever driving below 20 miles an hour it's stops or I can't tell it shakes. What causing this? My 1999 4/4 Chevy silverado...
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I have a misfire in the 6 cylinder on my 98 Chevy c1500 5.7l 350 v8 2wd. I changed the spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor, and changed the spider injector i put the spider injector in from another engine I had. After doing all this the code still comes up. The truck runs fine and except it idles slight rough not bad at all and now it says I have a vacuum leak and while I'm driving you can feel the loss of power. I tried all the ways to do it like on YouTube. What is wrong with my truck?
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My question is what could cause a high idle?I have a 95 Chevy pickup 4x4 with a 5.7... Recently the lower radiator hose fell came off the radiator, dumping the liquids all over the street. The motor shut down, and every time we went to start it there would be a loud whining/spinning noise. We thought that the motor seized, so we pulled the plugs, turned the motor by the crank bolt.Turned out that the starter went bad, the spindle and bendex werent catching on the flywheel.
After examining the flywheel teeth, and gapping the plugs to the recommended manufacture gap, (they werent when we pulled them), we got a new starter installed. It started right up! But it ran at a high idle, around 1500-2000 RPM. I did not have a chance to really let it warm up (it was cold and raining). Now there is a gray flexhose that is running from the air filter housing down to the exhaust manifold. If i remember correctly, it was not seated very well when I took it off. Could it be causing too much of a vacuum?
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I have a 1992 Chevy 1500 5.7L V8 with 167,000 miles that is running hot. When I drive the vehicle the temperature quickly rises to just about 250 degrees and hovers just under the "red" zone. It never fully overheats, even on longer drives (50+ miles). It seem to run just fine otherwise. It is not leaking coolant and I have not had to fill the radiator. My first thought was that the thermostat was bad, but wouldn't that be an "all or nothing" issue? Where should I start looking for the problem? It has been going on for about 3 weeks, and I want to get it resolved quickly.
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I have a 95 chevy silverado. 305 with an automatic transmission. I was driving down the street at about 30mph when the power went out on me.
The engine stayed on and all lights stayed on. I could rev the engine but the truck wouldn't move.
I then had a friend tow to my house and i let it sit overnight trying to decide what to do next.
The next day I went out and started it and it and was able to drive it again for a short distance at low speed and then it did the same thing again.
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My 2004 Chevrolet Siverado's steering box seems to leak. It was adressed at one point but then just seemed to leak all over my driveway, it sits alot. It also make a loud winding sound when it first starts in cold weather then goes away when warmed up? Finally the oil pressure gauge is pinned passed 80 psi. just gauge?
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I have a 1986 Chevrolet El Camino with a small V-8 engine. The vehicle has 150,000 miles on it. It starts and runs fine. It does not use oil. My problem is the oil pressure. After the car runs for a short time, the oil pressure starts dropping. It will drop all the way to 0 if I let it. I have had the sending unit replaced and it did not work.
I have had two mechanics look at it and they have not been able to solve the problem. One checked it with a mechanical gauge and confirmed the low pressure. He suggested a higher weight oil and an additive. The other mechanic's solution was to raise the idle speed. I have had this vehicle since it was new and always kept the oil changed and all other maintenance done. I would like to keep the vehicle and complete any repairs necessary.
My question: Is the engine repairable economically or does the engine need to be replaced and what is causing this problem.
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I have a 1999 Chevy Blazer LS 4WD 95K miles that had an incident in 2008 where the oil pressure dropped to zero while driving down the highway. I immediately pulled over and had the vehicle towed to a dealership. They pulled the oil pan off and let me know the lower part of the motor was "toast." (crankshaft had turned blue due to heat from no oil.) Mysteriously it has oil pressure now, why that is. It started last time I tried about 4 years ago.
I dearly loved this vehicle. It was first car I bought and paid for myself and I planned on repairing it one day. It's been sitting in My garage for the last 8 years. Recently, my daily driver died and I was faced with repairing the Blazer or buying a new vehicle. Since I don't know how well the Blazer has fared sitting in the garage all these years, I decided repair wasn't worth it at this time for a vehicle I needed to be dependable and I just bought a new vehicle.
So here's the thing. I kept the Blazer really clean. Washed it all the time, no damage, Regular oil changes, the works. It still smells like a new car inside. I really don't want to see it get crushed and I'd like to see it go to a good home. It might need more work than a new motor since it's been sitting so long, but I can't imagine it would be more than someone mechanically inclined could handle. I'd get a new engine, but I don't have the cash and I need the garage space.
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I have a 98 chevy 2500 5.7l.Im not getting oil to my heads. My oil pressure is 50 drivin 30 @ idle. so pumps workin at least half workin. do they go like that? or they work or they don't? Any trick or a test to run b4 i pull the pan.
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I just bought my first Lexus, picked up a 2008 GX 470 with only 35k miles!
I just had the TSB for the "Clunk" issue fixed and I had a tire sensor that was leaking and had that fixed.
The ONLY other issue I am having is that there is a vibration at between 1250-2000 RPM and it's most prevalent at 1500 RPM, but it is gone above 2000 RPM. This happens while in park and hitting the accelerator to get to those RPM and it happens in all gears while driving, which is especially annoying because the SUV typically is sitting right at 1500 RPM while driving.
The Lexus dealer thought the driveshaft TSB would take care of the vibration, but it didn't.
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