Chevrolet - 1500 :: 1997 - Won't Start / Idle Rough?
Jul 24, 2015
I have a 97 Chevy K1500 truck that i have been having problem with starting. Sometimes it will start. When it does the idle is rough. When i put in in gear it almost acts like it will shut off. Then it comes back and it drives fine. If it shut it off it may or may not start. I had the distributor cap a rotor replaced. Then I replaced the spark plugs and wires. Still does not start. It seems like it is getting too much fuel. I pulled the fuel pump relay and the truck would start then die out. When i put the relay back in truck does not start. I am not sure what might be the next piece to look at. I was thinking the MAP sensor or the throttle position sensor. So far i have not had any codes come up.
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I have a misfire in the 6 cylinder on my 98 Chevy c1500 5.7l 350 v8 2wd. I changed the spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor, and changed the spider injector i put the spider injector in from another engine I had. After doing all this the code still comes up. The truck runs fine and except it idles slight rough not bad at all and now it says I have a vacuum leak and while I'm driving you can feel the loss of power. I tried all the ways to do it like on YouTube. What is wrong with my truck?
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I have a 97 chevy and the only way to start it is to jump the starter relay, not sure if it is the key switch ot the nuetral saftey switch.
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After my truck sits overnight it starts immediately and goes to fast idle for a few seconds, then ithe idle starts dropping until it gets to approx. 400 RPM.If I drive off immediately it will correct itself in a short while, otherwise I need to baby the engine speed until it runs on its own - usually five minutes.I cleaned the MAF and performed a MAF tap test with no success.
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My 1997 chevy suburban wouldn't start after being parked for a few days. the battery seemed to drained out so quickly and not because the lights were left on. The alternator was replaced less than two years ago. and the battery less than a year ago. I tried to jump start but it did now turn orver. What is the problem?
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I got this truck from my step father, drove it from mississippi to washington (state) with minor problems. It's been sitting in my driveway for the last 6 months and I probably drive it once a week. I loaned it to my sister-in-law and she drove it for a couple of days with no problems. She went out one morning to take it and it wouldn't start, just cranked it for a few minutes and gave up. To make a long story even longer, I though it was fuel so I checked the pump, changed the filter, drained some fuel thinking water might have gotten in, ... to no success. I then started looking at electrical. Spark was getting to at least one plug. Pulled the distributor cap and cleaned it all up, replaced all the plug wires, and then tried starting it with the same results. (Oh, by the way, no check engine light so I assume no codes).
This goes on for a couple of weeks as it's in the driveway and I only pop the hood when it's not raining (we live just outside of Seattle). The other day I have the hood open, my wife decides to check on me since she thinks I'm talking to God and is wondering why I would use that kind of language when address a diety. I ask her to jump in and crank it while I pull a plug wire to see if I'm getting spark....again. Low and behold, the truck starts right up. I jump in to see if it's throwing a code and nothing. The thing is running great. I did notice that there is a ticking coming from the engine compartment and I realize the plug wire is still disconnected so I turn it off (with much hesitation) connect the wire, go back inside to start it and the thing won't start. I'm a private pilot and they say, if you're flying along and you do something and the engine stops, undo what you just did. So, I go back out, unplug the spark plug wire, and the thing starts right up. So, I start thinking, try another plug wire. I reconnect it, try another, and it won't start. So, what I figure is that it will only run when the second to the front cylinder plug wire on the drivers side on the engine is disconnected.
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I've taken it to a half dozen mechanics, none can diagnose the problem. From a cold start the engine idles well, but once it warms up and the fast idle setting shuts off, it begins to vibrate quite a bit. I rebuild that included an all new fuel injection system, new ignition parts (including distributor, replaced at a later date,) new wire to alternator (the old one had cracked insulation,) and a new mass airflow sensor (swapped in from a parts van-no effect.)
Basically everything is new except for the sensors (crank sensor, idle air, throttle position, etc.,) and the fuel filter and pump. I'm not getting any codes, and at least two mechanics said it had good fuel pressure. It FEELS like a vacuum problem on a carburetor vehicle, but I had the vacuum harness checked as well, and everything seems to be in order.
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Replaced Fuel Pressure Regulator but still notice smell of gas and sometimes at start up rough idle.
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What would cause my truck to have a long turnover start, a really rough idle, and a loss of power after idling at a stop light for about a minute?
This problem gets worse as the truck warms up. It feels as if I'm not getting power from all 6 cylinders but this goes away after about 20 feet of acceleration. The truck has never not started. It just has to turn over for about 5 to 10 seconds before it fires up. I changed the spark plugs and wires thinking it was that and then i tried the fuel filter and it wasn't that either.
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I have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts (sorry, not to up on my car lingo here lol)
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
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I have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts...
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
I would like to have some knowledge or information in case I have to take it to a mechanic to have it looked at. The last people (Just Breaks) I took it to really tried to screw me over. After they worked on it the Emergency break light was on and his fix was to just "unplug" the sensor. I said Heck no! Fix it! after three bleeds it tripped the sensor off. So I am a bit hesitant to have them looked at after that experience.
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I just acquired a 2003 with 5.4 L. Did all new plugs and coils, cleaned MAF sensor, changed air filter, oil, transfluid and filter (obviously not related).
Upon start up and idle the truck has is rough, enough that it will vibrate the whole truck SLIGHTLY. Once in gear and warm, it smooths out and is fine. Unit the next stop and start.
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My 1995 chevy c1500 cuts out at idle or the moment the brakes are applied to shift into drive. I replaced the passenger wheel cylinder and bled the brakes and it ran fine for a few hours, then the idle problem stated again. I have check the map senor and a few other electronic component as my mechanic said the problem " might be electrical."
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2004 1500 5.3 low oil pressure after using Lucas engine stop leak. No pressure at idle just below 40 when driving. Replace the sending unit and pressure improved for about a day. Just had a manual pressure gauge hooked up and it shows the same as cluster. No engine noise at all. I was informed that using Seafoam or another solvent could loosen up build up and cause damage. Trying to find out if using an engine flush machine may support. I am assuming that the cause of the low oil pressure is due to build up from using several qt of the stop leak over a four months. I am the only owner and I have always changed the oil according to schedule and have always used Valvoline synthetic.
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My 1990 Chevy Silverado with 5.0 liter, 45k miles has started a problem that the guys in my diesel repair shop don't know what to do. Last week it started to run rough, hesitating and lurching and not accelerating smoothly. It idles fine, or pretty well, but just doesn't run smoothly with any kind of acceleration. I drive it back and forth to work just 1.5 miles during the week. I took it on vacation a week before, so it's not from lack of long trips, it ran fine.
A guy at my diesel repair shop put it on his Genesis scope and all it would code is the O2 sensor showed lean, but we could see it switching from rich to lean and so on. I thought vacuum leak, but couldn't find one. PCV valve is good. EGR valve is ok. I changed the fuel filter yesterday and thought it ran a little better, but now has gone back to the rough running. What I can do myself to diagnose this? I do have all the tools and shop.
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I just bought a 2009 Chevy Silverado , have only had for a week and have noticed an irregular fluctuation in idle, also the transmission has lack of a better term jarred a few times and seems to downshift rough sometimes. The irregular idle seems to be worse when the ac is on, I can hear the compressor kick on and off alot. And just once I was driving and tried to accelerate and it didn't want to very much. Factory warranty is out and dealer didn't give option for extended warranty. They have agreed to look at it but aren't willing to do much other than clean injectors and throttle body.
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I am having issues with my 2002 chevy cavalier.
The car occasionally surges forward while idle and revs up to 1500 rpm approximately occasionally when the air conditioner is on... if the brake is not applied I move forward.. the lurches are continuous every 3 seconds or so.
I am getting a code for an evap leak.. I have replaced the purge solenoid valve, gas cap, and checked all connections with no luck... slightly decreased gas mileage has occurred.
A little bit of a slick substance has been leaking from the car.. it has the consistency of water, but leaves a slight brown tinge on concrete.
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I am doing a side job and this thing has a rough idle. I put the scanner on it and pulled code 43 ESC and a ritch and lean code from the O2 sensors. I know the O2 codes are probably from running rough. It has been a while but could the knock sen be the problem or the ESC itself? I looked for the ESC by the throttle body but didn't see it. I remember what they look like but this is a late model 94 are they some where else?
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I am new to FTE and have a question about my 99 4.2l. After it warms up, i can shut it off and about 30 mins later try to start it again and it will idle very rough and sometimes stall. I also noticed that it surges sometimes with just off idle throttle when its cold. I am not getting any codes thrown, here's what I've done so far: cleaned the maf and throttle body, and it didnt work at all. I did convert my cht over to ect by using the plugged coolant outlet on the lower right side of the intake manifold and extending the connector wires which actually solved the problem a little bit but it still does it from time to time.
More info about the cht to ect conversion, but after reading that ford did away with them in later models i wanted to do the same while at the same time making it so much easier to swap it out if ever needed. No more getting under the truck. And where im at cht's are kind of hard to come by without having to order them Anyway, it worked flawlessly! I only had to extend the wires by about 8", wrapped them and ran it along side the injectors for a clean factory look. Ill try to post pics soon...
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can i adjust idle on car, seems to be running faster without using gas pedal.
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Our son has a 97 Chevy C/K pickup truck and told me about a problem that I thought was easy to solve, and we tried, but it wasn't. The driver's side front turn signal flashes fast. I checked the rear lights on that side and the turn signal wasn't working at all, let alone the tail lights, so I replaced the bulbs. They're the kind with the 2 filaments. I noticed the old bulbs were covered with some nasty yellow corrosion. Now the turn signal problem is the same and still no brake light on that side but he has tail lights at night. I tried to clean up the corrosion in the circuit board (none on the bottom light, which is the reverse light) with a neighbor's wire brush but it didn't change anything, so he suggested I change the circuit board.
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