I have a '95 Chevy K1500 5.7 and am wanting to install a freeze plug block heater, but I'm having problems knocking out the existing freeze plug and would like some hints. It is located directly behind the oil filter, so I'm having problems getting enough leverage.
View 19 RepliesI have a 5.0L with around 144k mileage. I noticed a reasonably severe leak of anti-freeze the day after I had the oil changed at a shop (coincidentally?); nothing out of the ordinary on that day. The temp's have never showed as being beyond normal. I saw that there was a bit of weeping from the water pump, so changed that believing that the gaskets might be the real culprit (third pump on this truck). I re-filled the system with fluid (green silicate as the system had been modified several years back), ran the engine, and found that there is still a leak, not as severe, but most definitely bad. It honestly appears to be dripping at the oil pan gasket, just left of the crank on the lower end. The location doesn't really seem logical to me.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 Chevy 2wheel drive 4.3 V6 Pickup with a long lasting engine knock. I use it only to haul trash and building materials, maybe once every other week. The knock is sporadic. If I take a long trip and drive on an interstate highway the following morning upon start-up the truck will knock heavily and continue to do so as long as it is running. If I take the truck for a short local trip, the following morning it will start with no knock and only start knocking after driving maybe 10 miles. If I drive only short trips, the truck will almost always start without knocking and only knock once it is fully warmed up. I purchased this vehicle from my brother who drove it this way ever since he purchased it at a salvage auction (full of dents and some damage) who put over 20,000 miles on it with this same engine knock.
Other than the dents, the truck is in great shape, no rust, and has 118,000 miles on it. I would like to keep this thing because it was very cheap and I only use it sporadically. So, I'd like to know if I'm going to eventually have to put a motor in it or if there is some small fix I could make to stop this knocking sound. The sound: It is heavy. It sounds bad. It knocks along with the rpm of the motor. My brother, who is also a great mechanic, thinks it may be piston slap or something in the valve system. I've also had a mechanic listen to it. He thinks it's a rod bearing or wrist pin. What I don't understand is how could it be any of those things when it makes a difference how I drive it the last time it was used? Could it be something simple like a vacuum issue, knock sensor or crank sensor?
I've got a noise that has me puzzled on my 1995 Chevy C1500 (2wd). I hear a mid to high pitched noise when I'm driving at between 45 and 55 mph (70-90 kph). It varies in pitch depending on the speed I'm going, starts at around 45 and goes away above 55, and also tends to go away if I lift off the gas. The sound occurs in any gear, but always at the same speeds. My leading suspect is the differential, but I haven't ruled out anything yet. I pulled the differential plug and the fluid isn't very dark.
View 7 RepliesMy 1995 chevy c1500 cuts out at idle or the moment the brakes are applied to shift into drive. I replaced the passenger wheel cylinder and bled the brakes and it ran fine for a few hours, then the idle problem stated again. I have check the map senor and a few other electronic component as my mechanic said the problem " might be electrical."
View 6 RepliesI have a 1995 4X4 Chevy Silverado. Well tonight the lower radiator hose came off, and all the coolant drained out while my wife was driving it around town. She noticed that the temp gauge spiked, and tried to get home. The truck stalled, was able to restart it for a moment, stalled again and now when we try to start it up there is a low spinning noise coming from the area around the starter. I think it might be the starter trying to engage the flywheel. My question is whether or not this could because the motor has seized, or is there another symptom that could potentially make this noise.
View 1 RepliesMy 95 chevy 1500 pickup is having fuel pump issues. Somewhere between the relay and the sending unit. Pulled the tank, and put power directly to both the pump and the sending unit. They both run. Put in new relay, still not turning on the pump. Do not know if this is related, but the switch to turn on the interior light when you open the door does not work on the drivers side door. If I pull on the switch the light will come on.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1995 Silverado Diesel 4X4 with 145K miles. I only drive about once a week to take trash to the dump. It's been running great until yesterday. I put in drive and went to pull out of my drive way and truck won't move. It makes a terrible sound in the rear of the truck but won't budge. I have checked transmission fluid level and appears to be good. I say appears because my drive way is on a steep incline and it's backed in, bed on the down side of hill.
View 5 RepliesI have a 95 chevy silverado. 305 with an automatic transmission. I was driving down the street at about 30mph when the power went out on me.
The engine stayed on and all lights stayed on. I could rev the engine but the truck wouldn't move.
I then had a friend tow to my house and i let it sit overnight trying to decide what to do next.
The next day I went out and started it and it and was able to drive it again for a short distance at low speed and then it did the same thing again.
2000 Dodge Neon having issues with freeze plugs falling out. Have replaced at least four freeze plugs over the last year and a half. Is there a solution to avoid constant replacement? Neon has about 135,000 miles. There is no warning when a plug is about to fall. Research shows freeze plug issues are not isolated to the Neon and perhaps copper plugs are the answer.
View 2 Replies91 Dodge D150 1/2 ton truck with a 318 (5.2L). Approx. 135K miles. Noticed a leaking freeze plug right behind the starter. Removed the starter & replaced the offending plug. I've also replaced other plugs on the block as needed in the past. While I had the starter out, I went ahead and replaced it as it was getting old & tired. After buttoning everything up while adding coolant, I got a major waterfall coming out between the trans and the engine block.
My project for today is to remove the transmission so I can get to the rear plugs and replace. How many plugs are back there? I'm obviously changing all the plugs back there along with the rear main seal. Is there any advantage going with the brass plugs or should I just stick with the regular ones?
I developed a freeze plug leak while driving into town in my 1991 Aerostar with the 3.0 liter engine. Got to Schuck's (my destination) and bought some antifreeze, noted where the leak was and filled up the coolant system.
Drove a few miles to the mechanic's house. Coolant blowing out everywhere, obviously boiling off. Let it cool down while going over an estimate for repair. Topped it off one more time and went home. Have not moved it since.
There is sludge, almost like thick foam, that I suspect is what's left of coolant that has had the water mostly removed. It is the same color as the coolant - bright orange-ish green. Will a few flushes with fresh water clear this out of the system?
Since of lately my 2001 santa fe with about 143000 Km on the clock is having a ignition knock when the RPM is about 1500-2000, also changing to 2nd gear (Auto Box). What it could be and how to rectify it?
View 2 RepliesMy poor baby just developed a rod knock. The noise usually is faint and only when accelerating slightly. I had one bout of very loud vibrating "humming" and clanking. I need to drive to NH from WY (2500 miles). Is there a chance this noise could be something else? How can I prolong the life of the car to get home? I hear cars can last anywhere from 1 to 100,000 more miles with this issue. I am hoping for the latter. She's a 95 Saturn SL1 and I love her, but I understand her time has come.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1995 k1500 when I turn the key on no lights on the dash if I wait 5-10 second you hear a click sound in steering column and the dash lights come on and starts fine. ???
View 1 RepliesLast week my truck started to stall a little bit. As I drove it a little longer, it stalled all the way out. It started back up fine but when I gave it some gas, it cut off. This happened several times. I popped the hood and noticed the throttle body was a little loose. Thinking air may have gotten into the system,I tightened it back up. I started it up,put it in gear and it seemed to drive fine and it started stalling again.
While I was on the interstate, it would cut off, cut back on,cut off and then cut back on. Finally it completely stalled out. I had to have it towed to my house. I hooked my code scanner up to it and it through code 44 (O2 sensor) and code 54 (Fuel pump relay or something like that). What could be causing my truck to run this way.
I am trying to install the upper chains on my sentra. The colored links will not align onto the sprocket marks. They are off by a link. I know there are 16 links across the top and 16 links from the exhaust sprocket to the idler sprocket. However, it seems,the camshaft knock pin on the intake sprocket is out of alignment. Both camshafts are a TDC; intake lobe facing up and facing firewall at horizontal, exhaust love up and horizontal facing grill. The exhaust camshaft sprocket is at 1130; the intake VTC knock pin is above the 9 o'clock mark. The Haynes book and other sources, say the knock pin on the intake side should be below the the 9 mark by about 10-11 degrees and for the exhaust side at 12. Do I need to reset the cam shaft? Can it be done without totally screwing everything up?
View 1 RepliesExperienced this (Loud engine knock or rattle noise) regarding the service bulletin (T-SB-0010-12)? If so, did you take your vehicle in for service?
View 19 RepliesI've got a "new" Blazer -95 4.3 vin W about a month ago. It has run about 170,000 km.
But now it looks like it was a bad buy, it runs bad. The rpm starts jumping between 1500 - 2500. Suddenly the break and ABS warning lights in dashboard lights up, and sometimes all black out and it stalls.
At first it started acting like this when towing a trailer on the highway, doing 80 km/h. But now it does it at any speed.
I own a 95 chevy 1500 with a 5.7 engine. The other day I'm driving home and my truck completely stalls out and has no power what so ever. To be more specific I didn't have lights, radio, key buzz nothing. Well by the time I got the under the hood I had power again and it cranked right up. I put it in drive and 5 minutes down the road and it stalls again with no power what so ever. I've been having problems recently with it stalling at stop signs/red lights but never with a loss of electrical systems. What this could be?
View 3 RepliesI have a 97 chevy and the only way to start it is to jump the starter relay, not sure if it is the key switch ot the nuetral saftey switch.
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