Cherokee :: Why Hvac Acts Like It Is In Recirculate Mode With A/C Button Pushed In Manual Mode
Sep 7, 2015
2014 Grand Cherokee Laredo. Wondering why the hvac acts like it is in recirculate mode with the A/C button pushed in manual mode. Have window cracked to force smoke and odors out of cabin. On vent mode it pushes air right out, in A/C mode it acts like recirculate is partially on and in recirculate mode it draws outside air in like you would expect recirculate to do. Trying to decide if I have something wrong or the nature of the beast. My GM vehicles do not act like this.
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I own a 2007 Prius with almost 125K miles. I've had AC issues with this car since I bought it with 97K miles, and there's one thing that I just realized. I have a sneaking suspicion that the fresh air/recirculate mode is not quite working right. I have a feeling my car might be stuck in fresh air mode, or if not stuck, that the baffle is not closing all the way when I place it in Recirculate mode. Is this an easy thing for me to check, or does it involve taking apart the dash or something more involved?
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I have a 2010 Prius 5 and before I took it into service the car started acting weird. At slow speeds it would be in like ev mode and when I would push on the throttle it would kinda lag and almost feel like the car was gonna die out but it didn't. It would only happen once in awhile.
When I took it in for service at Toyota I mentioned the problem and they couldn't find anything wrong. So a few days later I was leaving Costco and as I got bout 10 feet away from the stall I was in the car did that same almost die out thing but the car started beeping and all the lights on the dash came on with the check hybrid system. Every light was on and stayed on tpms, traction control light ect. The car still ran but it ran like shit n the engine stay running the whole time. I managed to get home safely and took it into Toyota on a stand by appointment the next day.
3 days later they call saying the car is ready to pick up n the problem was the hybrid battery (240volt) was no good n was covered under the hybrid side of the warranty which is 8 years/180,000miles. Btw the car has 64,000 miles I maintain the car very well I did all fluid flushes at 50,000miles.
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Had the Camry today and just messing around with the buttons. What is this eco mode "on" "off" feature? I accessed it from pressing and holding the odo button on the dash.
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how to use the steptronic on the RC , it's going to shift by itself or i had to press the shifted pedal to bring up the gear , before i had a BMW so usually it autoshift on DS mode , what about the shifting on the RC.
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I've noticed a bit of noise when the R is in manual mode, upshifting from 1st to 2nd. It can hear a bit of a clunk with the windows up or down (obviously a bit more pronounced windows down). It never makes the noise in "D", and maybe 50% of the time in "M".
No other noises that I can tell, from upshifts to downshifts in any other gear. Just the manual 1st to 2nd shift. Trans seems smooth, already had a Mech replacement.
Should I be concerned, or even take it to the dealer? I'd take a video, but I dont' think the mic on my phone would even pick up the sound. It's definitely there though...
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I have only driven my car a handful of times, but I noticed the past two times, that it sticks in 5th gear during the time that the oil temperature finally gets above the 1/4 mark until it finally settles.
It doesn't stick before reaching the quarter mark, and as far as I can tell, it doesn't stick in auto mode. This doesn't sound like something that should be normal, but what say you?
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New Sonata owner. Got myself a 2015 Ultimate. Is there much difference in acceleration between "Sports Mode", and just running the car in manual mode (shiftronic)?
I know my Elantra used to have a huge acceleration bonus if I ran it in manual mode. Not sure if that caries true here.
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Driving in normal mode and the transmission in auto. Once the car gets up to temp, (usually at a stop), move the gear selector to manual mode. If you punch it, I have not issues shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, but sometimes, the up shift paddle will need to be hit multiple times in 2nd before the car will shift to 3rd.
It seems to only happen the first time I go from auto mode to manual mode during a drive cycle. It happens on my car and another car I test drove.
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I have a metallic grey 2012 SE V6 Camry. While the car is in drive mode, not S mode, I accidentally pressed the paddle shifters while turning and the car went into manual mode. The blue lit display on the dash said D for drive, but it had the gear numbers next to it and I could down or upshift at will. In order to get out of manual mode I have to stop the car, put it in S mode and then back in drive, bc I heard u weren't supposed to shift bet drive and sport mode while the car is in motion. Is this normal?, How to take the car out of manual mode without putting it in S mode then back to drive?
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Car is:
1) Warmed up
2) At a standstill
3) In manual mode, 1st gear
4) Traction control is on/normal
5) Sport mode is on/off (doesn't seem to matter for this example)
How to verify:
1) Hit gas, more than 3/4 down
2) Shift above 5500rpm
3) As transmission up-shifts a drive belt squeal is heard.
4) Car otherwise accelerates normally.
This happens on two IS-Fs I've driven, a 2009 and a 2010, with or without the AC on. Is this a common issue? If so, what belt is slipping?
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I was driving along today and my dash lit up light a Christmas tree. I got PCS, ABS, Brake and BSM lights and I was locked out of first gear in manual mode. Other than the lights and having to driving in auto mode, the car drove fine. When I got home I inspected the rear suspension and saw that the driver's side speed sensor's rubber shielding where it attaches to control arm was damaged. It was not completely severed, but there was a hole and some exposed copper wiring. I had SPC rear control arms and RSR coilovers installed and the car was lowered about 1.3 inches in rear. I was able to use extra copper wire and electrical tape to temporarily fix the problem. After all the wires where connected and shielded with electrical tape, I got zero lights when I started the car.
I'm not sure how it happened. Maybe the wire was damaged during install or it was pinched due to car being lowered. Whatever the case, make sure the wire is secured in a way to avoid being pinched during suspension travel. I ordered the new wire and will attempt to replace. Looks pretty straight forward except the wire goes into the interior of the car somewhere. I read that I will have to remove rear seats. If so, that should be pretty easy. Is there something I'm missing? Will any of the rear interior need to be removed? How to do this?
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I'm driving home from work around 10:15pm and driving around 45mph; I switch my car from the manual mode to automatic and all of a sudden my car skids 40 feet and just stops. No lights on the dash, just completely stops and locks up the rear tires. I am in the middle of the road at this point and try to restart the car and put it into drive and the car just jolts forward and makes a grinding noise. I was still in shock at the moment, and a cop pulls behind me and asks me what is going on and I tell him the situation. He says he needs to call a tow truck to move the car. I brought it home and now I don't know what to do. The car is a lexus 2007 gs350 awd with about 104k miles, I don't think the car should just stop while driving 45 mph and come to a skidding stop.
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I have the 12 Accent GL Auto, I have about 161,000 km, and recently say 3 months I've been hearing/feeling this click click noise come from under the car whenever I am in "manual" mode in 1st gear coming from a stop, now I`m 99% sure its not the brakes releasing because I just replaced both my caliper's in the rear and pads and rotors all the way around, And I know this sound because I've had the problem (twice) were my brakes stick so I'm very familiar with that sound this is something different, I want to say transmission because it only does this in 1st gear manual mode, but i know where the transmission is on this car, and this sound isn't coming from where the transmission is, more like under the firewall ( where the trans would be on a RWD car).
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Got in the car today and moved the gear selector into the manual shift mode. Usually there is no play forwards or backwards. Today there was about 3/8 of an inch travel forward before the spring tension started. I'm taking the car in tomorrow to have the console latch replaced but was wondering why encountered this anomaly in the shift mechanism?
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I was wondering how can I install an EV mode button on my 2005 Prius also where can I buy the original button not some ghetto looking radio shack switch.
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I have noticed that when driving in EV mode when the car switches over to HV mode the Eco icon always lights up! Of course you can select Eco, or Power mode manually, but when it does this automatically, after the EV battery charge is used up, it keeps showing the Eco icon being lite not HV.
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I have a 2000 Intrepid with ATC (automatic temperature control).I noticed my A/C clutch is always is on even in heat mode (no defrost mode) Is this normal in automatic mode even if I set temp at 90° without defrost mode? Been looking on forums and some say it is normal for newer cars and some say no. What is correct.Doesn't seem normal to me when I set temp at 90° and the A/C is still running. The heat does work though.I did check for voltage at the clutch and it has power so something is telling it to run, (not a bad clutch,stuck clutch etc).
I never seen or heard it cycle when watching it. (hard to tell when driving) because the cooling fans go from low to high sometimes even without the A/C cycling.
In manual mode I can physically turn on or off the A/C but if it is on, I never seen it cycle yet when set at a normal temp 72-75° is this normal?I know it depends on outside temp,humidity, inside temp etc but if it feels comfortable in the cabin shouldn't the A/C cycle on and off every few minuts-10 minutes etc or is it normal to go 30 minutes or more without cycling? I don't have it on max Cool or recirculate mode either.
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I typically drive in Eco Mode all the time and I'm tired of seeing the green light when the rest of the panel is a cool blue color (I like uniformity). Is there a setting or a way to turn this off? I can tell which mode I am in by the response of the pedal and don't necessarily need it lit up, so wondering if there is a setting anywhere to turn it off. I couldn't find anything in the manual.
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My AC always defaults to Recirculation mode the first time I use it after starting the car even though Auto mode is off.
Can I change this to default to fresh air mode?
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I have a 2008 F350 with a 6.4 Powerstroke diesel engine that just experienced total engine failure. It has around 65K miles.
There is a heavy burn star pattern on all 8 pistons, a few pistons are cracked, a few cylinder walls are scored, glow plugs are melted, both heads are cracked with multiple stress fractures in each head.
About 1 month previously, the transmission would not work in tow mode and caused the engine to go into limp home mode. The dealership just replaced the entire tranny as a warranty item. About 1 week before the engine failure, I put in a 5.25 oz bottle of Lucas injector cleaner with a full tank of gas.
The Ford dealership is saying that the star pattern on all 8 pistons is due to high pressure fuel overspray and is evidence that I had a tuner on this engine and that the warranty is invalid. I did not have a tuner. What might have caused this engine failure?
Also, they only ripped down the top half of the motor, not the bottom half. I heard this might have been caused by a cracked crank shaft, but Ford refuses to investigate this possibility.
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