I have been replacing brake lines on our old rusty Cherokee when I discovered the evap line from fuel tank is partially missing, rusted away near the back. I have never noticed raw fuel smell, but what issues will this problem cause? I will replace the line if needed which apparently involves dropping the fuel tank.
View 1 RepliesCheck engine light popped on (first time ever) at 76,000 miles. Had my brother read the code with this engine diagnostic tool and it said "Fuel Cap". No big deal...
Take it to Hyundai, nope, not fuel cap... it's an Emissions/Evap control valve leaking above the fuel tank somewhere.
A few days ago code 0496 popped up for evap system problems. The fuel tank is very pressurized and there is a constant bubbling heard in the fuel in the tank with the gas cap removed. Sounds like blowing air through a drink with a straw. I have never had a problem like this with any car in over 45 years.
View 1 RepliesI was looking around under the hood and I'm pretty sure I'm missing a bolt and maybe a nut too. The bolt hold the fuel line I think. Is there supposed to be a nut holding the fan shroud on here?
I know I could go to the hardware store and eventually find something that works, but that is a headache and they don't like me test fitting until I find the right size. What is part number?
2003 XL 5.3L with a leaking fuel line between the tank and filter. Mechanic says that this line is only available in a kit that includes all fuel lines for the truck. Hard to believe you can't just get the one line.
View 4 Replies1998 Explorer. The fuel pump went out so today I dropped the tank to replace it. I got the 2 fuel lines off and the 2 electrical connections off with no problems but when I went to try and take the vapor line off, the tabs on the connector were brittle and broke. Now I am stuck not being able to put everything back together since that line wont lock on. I was wondering if anything I can do.
I have tried looking online to no avail except for one site selling ford part that has this line for almost 300 dollars. It is just a plastic line that leads to a metal line. Even the Ford Parts site doesn't carry it! That's insane! I was thinking of cutting the plastic line off where it meets the metal line and using rubber fuel line with hose clamps on the line and the plastic fitting on the tank. I just dont know if this will be good enough.
It is the 2000 GTP 2 door. It is my sons car and is dead in front of my house. Changed the fuel filter as it is cheap to do. At the check valve there is no pressure in the fuel line. I turned it over with the hose off the filter it did not pump any fuel. I do hear a click or clunk in the gas tank when I turn it over suggesting it is getting power into the pump.
I almost went and bought a pump but do not really want to put the $230 + tax down without checking the resistor after reading around the net.
I'm converting the automatic in my 94 explorer to a M5OD-R1 five speed transmission. I got the manual wire harness from the donor truck and it plugs into the existing connectors, but it's missing a connector for the evap canister. Should I just use the automatic harness and modify it to bypass the clutch safety switch and wire a switch for backup lights? Or use the manual harness and wire the evap canister to the ecm? I'm not much of an electrician, just trying to find the correct way to do this so the truck runs good.
View 3 RepliesI took my 2008 prius with 183,000 miles in last week to have recall work done on it. they did the following:
1. Accelerator pedal recall
2. Steering shaft recall
3. Hybrid Electric water pump recall
The following day when I start my prius my check engine light comes on so I figure it was something they did on the recall work. I do have a scangauge, and the only code that showed on it was a P1304. I took it back to dealer today, and was told that it had multiple EVAP codes, and that the canister on top of gas tank is bad, and will need to be replaced. They said it was full of gas. They asked me if I stopped fueling car when pump shut off? I told them I always go to next whole dollar. They said to always stop as soon as pump shuts off(but on some pumps they shut off like crazy when pumping gas), I told them to just clear codes, and I would get back with them if I decide to have canister changed. So far check engine light has stayed off ( dealer is about 100 miles away)
I have a 1997 jeep gran cherokee 4.0 it takes spells that it will start missing and then quit and will not start but a little later it will start and the code is number 43. Also it will backfire and destroy the muffler. I have replaced the coil and the crank sensor and muffler of course two times. This is not something that happens with heat. It will do it when it is hot or when it is cold also replaced the engine control module or brain. It may do it often and it may run for months before it does it. Again always code 43 when it sets a code what is wrong ?
View 7 RepliesI have a vacuum line missing on the top of intake its a 98 explorer 4.0 sohc. I don't know where it goes...
View 2 Repliesabout 2 years ago, my 99 cherokee would start acting up at about 1/4 of a tank of gas...i would hit the throttle and it would lose all power like it wasn't getting any gas, it wouldn't stall out, but as soon as i would let off the throttle it would go back to running normal..... i filled the tank and it ran fine again.... i don't drive it much i've only put maybe 3000 miles on it since then, and now it's doing the same thing at half a tank now.... it even stalled out a couple times while idling..... do i need a fuel pump? a coil maybe? it usually runs great in the mornings when it's cold.... but when it gets hot out in the afternoon it starts doing it, or if its been running for a while....
View 10 RepliesI have a 1987 jeep cherokee with inline 6 and multi port injection.
Sometimes this vehicle only starts when hot
Some times only when it cold
I have recently fixed the fuel leak.
When its hot or cold and not starting if i relieve the fuel pressure at the fuel rail, in most cases it will start immediately. However if fuel pressure relief does not work. I disconnect the vacuum line at the what looks to be the EGR valve or the pressure regulator at the front end of the rail, then usually starts right away.
I have not tested at this time to see if the fuel pump is failing nor have i tested fuel pressure. I am trying to narrow down the problem to one specific part. There is no problems with cranking. There is spark - coil, plug, dist cap have been replaced.
It seems the problem is with fuel delivery of sorts. It was mentioned that sometimes the heat from the engine could be heating the fuel rail to a point which turns the fuel into a gas not allowing it to atomize.
2001 Jeep Cherokee sport ... Just bought this Jeep with 145K miles. Had radiator and all hoses replaced. The overflow tank is boiling over but the engine is not overheating. Safe to drive? What should I be checking for?
View 13 Replies02 F150, 5.4 gas motor, about 338k miles. Bought this truck well used so I would have a truck when I needed one. Someone has removed the heater control valve. I've got a new one, but there is a port on the top for a vacuum line, but where this line plugs into.
View 1 RepliesI had a leaky brake line behind the gas tank on my 2000 f250 superduty and in the process of fixing that I ended up changing all my calipers and brakes. I've bled the lines and there is no air left in the lines but the brakes are still soft is there something else that needs to be bled. I think all brake fluid leaked on the floor when the line broke.
View 10 RepliesI have a '77 F250 with a 460. (Under edit) It has a holley 750 carb. (under 2 years old). It ran fine for about 2 years and now all the sudden it seems to not get enough fuel. I have a clear fuel filter on it and you can see that it is full of fuel when I first start it up. Just letting it sit there and idle after about 5 minutes it starts to show air coming through the lines and it gets worst the longer it runs.
If I take it out on the road and drive 55 it will be about 1 or 2 miles and it acts like it's not getting fuel. I stop and open the hood and check the filter and it is empty. What could cause this? I took it to an old Ford machanic and he has checked the fuel pump, fuel lines, sending unit, and gas tank. He is at a loss. I am no mechanic, but I am mechanicly inclined. I can't see it would be that hard to figure out. What do I do?
I have a 1994 volvo 850 turbo wagon. While replacing the pcv breather system, I dropped a little metal clip that attaches the fuel line to the fuel rail with a t25 torx screw. I can't find the clip. What the part is called or where it can be found?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1990 Ranger with a 4.0L that I just changer the intake gasket on. I broke the fuel line at the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Cant seem to find one anywhere. It is a nylon inside/rubber outside with a cloth mesh and quick connect fitting line. Where to get one? Can I hose clamp it the FPR by cutting off the connector that broke?
View 1 RepliesSomeone stopped by the shop today with a problem with the power steering leaking. I checked it out and the return line from the rack to the pump is rusted through and needs to be replaced. The pressure line looks just as bad and will develop a leak soon too, if not replaced. While chatting the customer revealed that while stuck with no power steering, he put motor oil into the reserve tank because that's all he had. It did get him home. My plan is to replace the pressure line first, then cut the return line below the car (where it can be accessed better). Then use my evacuator.
hooked to the return line from the rack. Start the siphoning and fill the reserve tank with the proper fluid to flush everything out. I figured that it would flush the reserve tank, pump, pressure line, and rack. Then replace the return line and top off the tank. Will I have to have the engine running while I flush, and do I need to work the steering wheel left and right too.
So my brother swears by sea Foam and has been telling me to run some of it through my truck. Question is,i just put new spark plugs in less then 5,000 miles ago. Will i have to change them if i run sea foam through the booster line and gas tank??
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