Cherokee :: Vehicle Does Not Disengage When Push The Handle Down
Jan 18, 2012
1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport
My Jeep 4WD has begun acting strangely. It will not disengage when I push the handle down. It will drop back into 2WD only after I run it a few feet in reverse. Also, during 4WD travel I hear a whining sound. In addition, today I smelled an odor that made me think something was getting very hot. One more: when turning during 4WD the steering wheel oscillates back and forth. The car will turn, but it feels like it is fighting back.
I bought the car new and have used 4WD at least a few times every year since. I have never had any problem with it before and have kept everything maintained that I know about. The vehicle has approximately 127,000 miles and has only been driven on paved roads (no off-road driving). There is no problem when driving in 2WD.
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At least once a week key locks up and won't push in to start vehicle. Dealer service stated this is a security issue when you bump into the steering wheel it locks up, told me to move steering wheel. It did start after doing this. This is happening at least once a week and I should not have to move the steering wheel every time. It is frustrating since the vehicle is 3 months old. Tried all keys, even valet key, nothing works, until I move the steering wheel.
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I am very puzzled with my new 2015 Lexus RX 350 , I parked my car at the gas station and suddenly noticed that I dont have my key on me and couldnt find it inside the car anywhere. I thought I dropped it somewhere outside but to my surprise when I tried starting my car it started fine assuming the key was some where close by.
I tried stepping out and to lock the car and got a message the key is inside the vehicle so car wont lock. I was able to start the car and drive it home about an hour drive car never complained about key not detected message. I called the dealership and they told me car will keep running if you drop the key outside while the car is running but after 15 mins of driving it will give a message key not detected.
I am locking the car now using the second remote but its risky to have the car in such a condition as any one can drive it away if they open the lock somehow. I have looked every where under the seat, in between the centre console and seat, under the seats key no where to be found. Could it be possible that key was dropped outside and the car is malfunctioning that its allowing me to start it and drive it without complaining.
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I have a 96 Jeep Cherokee, 2wd, 4 cylinder, manual transmission, I have had some work done on it. Recently, I had the clutch redone, then I had a tune-up and the motor mounts replaced.
After the motor mounts were done, I was unable to get the vehicle into gear. My mechanic adjusted the clutch pedal and it was running as long as I did not put it into reverse. I had driven it about 3 miles from my house, parked it.
Came out to start it a couple of hours later and it would not turn over. It wanted to start but no engagement. I had to have it towed to my house where my mechanic could check it out.
Since that time, we have determined that it is not the fuel pump, we changed out the fuel injectors, replaced the coil, replaced the crankshaft sensor and it is still doing the same thing. Have gone through all the suggested remedies.
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I had my '09 F-150 Super Crew lock punched out on driver side door. To prevent this from happening again, I am replacing that handle with a handle for the rear door that has NO lock. I will no longer have key access to the truck. I am also ordering a spare remote. Is there anything I should consider before following through with this decision? Why I shouldn't do this? Is this a common thing to do?
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I should have gotten a stick but I preferred an auto for the hills of SF. I was able to get the plastic gear cover off and use the manual override to get in gear. Reading around it seems like there could be some relay (brake or e-brake) that is not working, but couldn't figure out where that would be.
I'm still under warranty (28k mi) so going to take it to the dealer to fix. After I drove it back home ~50mi it looks like the problem fixed itself.
PS- when I parked I was on flat ground, steering column/wheel was not locked and I had my foot on the brake, park would still not disengage.
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I just put new seals in both front hubs because they were leaking. Now I have good readings when vacuum is applied. When I switch to 4wd the vacuum in hubs goes to about 15 in hg for about 30 seconds or so and my 4wd engages. After the 30 seconds the vacuum is released, I believe that is normal.
Now though my 4wd will not disengage. I get no vacuum pulse when I switch to 2wd, gauge stays at 0 in hg. I'm pretty sure a 5 in hg or so vacuum pulse is required to release hubs....is this correct? Would I be correct that the vacuum solenoid could be the issue or its connection?
Both locking hubs are in great shape and I spliced a vacuum gauge between hub and frame vacuum hose to get my readings. I drove it for 10 min hoping the hubs would disengage but they never did.
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So after putting my 2007 explorer in 4 high, it seems to be stuck that way. I can put into 4 low and hear it engage. When I select 4 high or 4 auto, I can hear the 4 low disengage. However, it never goes out of 4 high. The indicator goes off, but i can still feel it is engaged. What to do to turn it off?
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I've had this problem a couple times now. I start the car in the garage, take the parking brake off and try to move forward. Car does not move, but inches forward like I still have had the parking brake on. I double check, it's off. And to state the obvious, I do not have my foot on the brake.
I think maybe it's hill assist, though my garage barely has an incline that probably wouldn't trigger hill assist. I try to put it in different gears and attempt to accelerate in reverse, same thing.
So, that leads me to believe, are my brakes stuck? I steadily accelerate and the car finally budges. I hear a loud "POP-TWANG!!" under the car like I just popped the parking brake. The car lurches forward and I drive out of the garage normally.
I don't hear or see any other performance issues after this under normal city driving. This was after the car was not used and was in the garage overnight or longer. I did drive a few hundred miles the day before but not under significant load or stress on the car.
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Ok santa fe 2006 (facelift) clutch was slipping. We've put new clutch kit in it (thrust bearing; friction and pressure plate). We discovered it had already had the DMF concersion to single mass. So we ordered the single mass clutch kit for it and fitted. All back together, clutch won't disengage and allow you to put it in gear!!! So took it all apart again to check the fitting as the inspection hatch it just didnt appear all fingers on the pressure plate was being pulled.. all looked correct, thrust bearing snapped in to place as it should... we got box back on (making sure the lever entered the thrust bearing correctly) and still no luck. When you press the clutch you can pull the rubber on the slave cylinder back and the piston moves all the way to the circlip. There appears to be movement on the pressure plate in the box. At a complete loss.......... what could have happened?
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Santa Fe 2003 petrol manual 2.4
I had a slipping clutch so decided to change it myself.
I replaced the Dual Mass Flywheel the clutch pressure plate and clutch plate.
Re assembled and the car started first time but the clutch would not disengage.
Pressed the clutch peddle down and it went to the floor until the fluid had filled then it went solid.
I pressed it down again and the clutch did not release so pressed harder and 'pop' the master clynder went - but the clutch would not disengage.
Taken the gearbox back off now and the release bearing is in sit it just would not disengage -
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We swapped transmissions in 01 elantras.. We installed a new clutch kit . When we go to start the clutch won't completely disengage, it only pulls it some, not enough. We replaced Tran fluid and bled it. We swapped out the throw out bearing arm and at first it worked now it doesn't..
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So today I was playing around with a Honda civic from light to light with my 2012 v6 AWD Santa fe. After lighting the tires up on the first light I decided to hit the AWD lock switch.
Second stop light was great, my suv launched and before I knew it I was doing 100km/h. Only problem is my AWD light stayed on and didn't disengage? Is this normal?... I could be wrong but I think my check engine light flashed but I'm not 100% on that.
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I have a 95 Honda civic with a d15b block and a d16z6 head millage unknown I put a new clutch in it already had a new slave and master I installed a few weeks ago and when the car is running with out the clutch pressed in I can run through all the gears shift with ease it's like the clutch is pressed in but it's not
I've tried dropping the tranny and checking the pressure plate the clutch disc throw out bearing pilot bearing all good and installed right I rebleed the system then I removed the slave to see if it was in the hydroelectric system and still no change what am I missing.
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After a lot of reading and troubleshooting, I have come to know that it takes vacuum to engage and vacuum to disengage the automatic locking hubs on the Ford F series and Excursion. Most indications is that ~ 15" hg is required to engage and approximately half that much to disengage them. The mechanism that either engages or disengages them acts similarly to a ball point pen. The full amount of vacuum causes the mechanism to travel to it's limit, where the hub is engaged, whereas half the amount of vacuum applied only causes the mechanism to travel to its midpoint, which is where is should be for disengagement.
In my case, I have tested for vacuum leaks, none are present. I have installed new Ford OEM hub assemblies, a new locking hub solenoid and have tested the function of my vacuum pump. It draws about 13.5" hg of vacuum on the system. I do not have any issues with HVAC controls in the cabin of the truck. When installing the new hubs, I ensured that they are unlocked, the inner spline assy spins freely and once installed, the wheel shaft spins freely by hand. When I shift to 4WD on the dash, the hubs engage and all is well.
Problem I am having is when I shift back to 2WD, the hubs remain locked. I can tell as the wheel shafts are not able to be spun freely by hand. I have tried backing the vehicle, etc. No luck. Furthermore, when monitoring vacuum while engaging and disengaging 4WD, I can see that the full vacuum (~13,5") is applied when engaging. What concerns me is that only 3.5 - 4.0" hg is applied when disengaging. This is certainly not enough to operate the mechanism to the point of disengaging the hubs.
I have considered replacing the vacuum pump as I am only getting 13.5" hg of vacuum, however, when I research the replacement part, many have indicated that a new one only draws about that much, so I do not see the value in replacement.
Have any of you dealt with the same or similar problem and if so, what was your resolution?
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The cooling fan clutch never seems to disengage so I was wondering where can i find a clutch that is light duty so it will disengage easy and work with gas mileage napa list two different ones, maybe off a different vehicle....
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Ok so I have a 97 Ford Explorer 5-speed manual transmission. When I start the truck up in first gear, with my clutch pedal fully depressed, the truck goes forward as if im not pressing the clutch pedal down at all. And if I start the truck up in neutral, with the clutch pedal fully depressed, I cannot get into any gear. There are no leaks anywhere and there is plenty of fluid in the reservoir. What the problem may be or where i might wanna start looking?
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The starter on my kid's truck doesn't disengage and continues to turn over after the ignition is off. I have seen a few posts on this but have yet to find a clear troubleshooting path and it seems a lot of money wasted on new starters, solenoids and new ignitions.
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2000 ranger, 4.0L 5spd 4x4
Recently my buddy's 2000 ranger's clutch stopped working, it wouldnt disengage. I checked the reservoir and it was empty, checked below and between the bellhousing and engine was soaked. I filled the reservoir up and attempted to bleed the system with my vacuum bleeder and it barely got any fluid out. Ordered a new slave cyl and just put it in today. You could see how wet the old one was when I took it out.
So today when I finished installing everything, I filled the reservoir and bled the system, lots of fluid coming through, everything seemed good, however the clutch still feels extremely light, and won't disengage. I looked at it through the inspection cover and there is maybe a 1/4" of movement total. I don't get why this thing is not working! How can you tell is the clutch master cylinder is bad?
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When I first leased my 2010 Prius back in June of 2010, I was able to use the EV mode up to 25 miles an hour. Once it hit 26 or if I were to accelerate to quickly, it would disengage.
Now, actually some months back, I've tried using EV mode but it always disengages after 10mph no matter what I do. I've talked to the service dept at my local Toyota dealership but they have no answers for it.
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