Cherokee :: Clutch Master Cylinder Is Leaking Onto Fuse Box
Dec 10, 2011
Vehicle is an '86 Comanche 2.5L. Tested the battery at standing and charging, came to 12.8 standing and 14.7 charging. The alternator relay clicks, though that doesn't necessarily mean it's in good working order.
Any electrical load applied; headlights, taillights, hazards, blinkers, etc. kill the engine.
The clutch master cylinder is leaking onto the fuse box, though I moved it as best I could as I don't have the funds for a new master cylinder right now and I'm not sure which fuses, capacitors, and relays do what on the fuse box as the writing is barely noticeable.
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I bought a new clutch master cylinder for my 1960 Land Rover. I have swapped these in and out and rebuilt or replaced them many times over the years. This is the first time I've seen one fail this way, and it is brand new out of the box. In my opinion, the seal at the back of the cylinder that is supposed to close off the reservoir from the inside of the cylinder, well, isn't. So, it is pushing fluid up into the reservoir instead of down through the lines. Have a look at a this video...... [URL] ....
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I replaced my MC cap and gasket less than a year ago with a Dorman replacement and I'm leaking again, already. I don't want this to be an annual thing! Any good quality replacement? Is there any tip or trick to get the gasket to seal better?
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I'm having trouble bleeding the air out of my slave cylinder or master cylinder in my clutch system. I've been trying for a couple days now is there a trick to this?
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My 2003 Toyota 4 Runner with 104K miles recently started showing a brake light off and on. The brake fluid reservoir was at the minimum level and there was some residue leaking from the bottom near a silver disc. Took it to a mechanic and was told it was most likely the master cylinder leaking brake fluid. Is this normal wear and tear or is it unusual in this vintage vehicle? I do not notice any brake slippage at this point. Should I take this to the dealer and ask why this master cylinder is faulty? I thought Toyotas were long life vehicles?
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Replaced clutch master cylinder last week. Now when I accelerate it revs the RPM's and finally catches after about 5-10 seconds. Is this related to the previous repair? They are saying needing new clutch. What to do?
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I have a 88 ranger supercab 2.9l 4x4 with the fm146 trans and recently I have had a problem with my clutch master cylinder rod falling off my clutch pedal. I bought the new bushing and put it on and it was fine until yesterday. It wants to keep coming off. Is there a clip of some sort to hold it on or no. I looked at a few at the salvage yard and they did not have a clip just the bushing. So what do I do?
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I spent the day with a buddy working on his 91 ranger 4 cylinder 2WD truck because the clutch master cylinder shaft that connects to the pedal bent. We took the old part out and replaced it, but now we are having problems with the little pin that holds the line from the slave cylinder to the master cylinder in place. For some reason, even though the line is securely in position and wont budge with the pin in, it still leaks so we are unable to bleed the clutch.
I have looked all around the internet, including this site and wasn't able to come up with any explanation as to why the line is leaking, perhaps it is because the line isn't pushed in far enough, but like I said, it is securely in place and I wasn't able to push it in farther before forcing the pin into place. My buddy and I spent about 9 hours working on his truck today, including probably 3 or 4 just on trying to stop the leak.
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I replaced my hydroboost unit about 10,000 miles ago. Today I noticed it was wet under the unit. Only this time, it's not red PS fluid, rather, it is brake fluid. So, I assume the master cylinder is leaking and winding up under the hydroboost unit via gravity. Or at least that's my theory.
Any way Rockauto lists 2 motorcraft master cylinders.
One is BRMC-26 for Hydroboost
The other is BRMC-27 for speed control.
I have obviously Hydroboost, but also have speed control.
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I have changed the clutch master cylinder on my '03 Honda Accord (6 cyl.) six times in the past 12 months. Either the o ring seal blows out or the bolts holding the plate down breaks off. I bleed the clutch of bubbles until the oil runs through also. What am I doing wrong?, I'm about to send this car packing.
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My Ranger had been shifting hard for quite awhile. I recently opted to go ahead and replace the clutch, throwout bearing, had the flywheel turned and replaced the pressure plate.
This just seemed to make the problem slightly worse. I thought it was possible that my master cylinder needed to be replaced (the slave was replaced two years ago and didn't appear to be leaking when I had the tranny off). I replaced the master cylinder and now the clutch won't disengage at all. I've spent several days trying different things to bleed the clutch, and I just can't get it to bleed. I took it back off and bench bled it, then put it back on and bled through the whole system. This isn't working. I've tried numerous suggestions-jacking up the back end of the truck, jacking up the drivers side of the truck, I even bought a vaccuum bleeder and used it for 2 hours just having an assistant fill up the reservoir while I sucked fluid out the bleeder valve. The best I could ever get was some resistance on the pedal, but not enough to push the disc away from the flywheel.
I took the pickup to Ford, they said they bled it and charged me 90 bucks and still couldn't get the clutch to release
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I am looking for a how to vid or resource on doing the job right. I purchased the complete replacement master cylinder from Napa. 2002 7.3 Powerstroke
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I'm in the process of replacing the clutch master cylinder in my 99 F250 7.3L. I've got the kit that includes all the components already pressurized in a complete assy. Anyway, I know that in order to remove the clutch pedal component, (the part that stick's thru the firewall) your supposed to be able to rotate it about 45deg and it should pull free from the piston attached to the clutch pedal. But, what happens when it will not come free? I've already got a new replacement kit and I can see where that stainless rod inserts into the plastic component, but I can't seem to get the one on my truck to release?
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The passenger side of my jeep accumulates water when it rains. (leaking Sunroof) I remove the water as soon as possible, however Lately it has developed problems starting. There is a clicking sound that is coming from under the glove compartment or maybe the fuse box in the same area. Is it possible that the fuse box could be causing the shortage and my next question is can this problem detected/ corrected, by rewiring entire box or damaged wires? I love my Black Beauty, very little problems and only 112, 000 miles.
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I have power steering fluid leaking out of the bottom of the Brake master cylinder out of a round hole. Every time I pushed brakes it leaks a good amount of power steering fluid out. Why it would do this and is there a screw missing out of the hole or what?
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Which line goes to front brakes and which to rear from the master cylinder?
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I own a 1974 Mercury Capri and I am having trouble finding a master cylinder. Where I can locate one?
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I had this sad puppy noise coming from my brakes so I have now replaced my brake booster. When doing so I took my old brake master cylinder and put it on my new brake booster. When trying to bench bleed it it only came fluid from the P marked circuit. It came no fluid from "S". I guess it stands for primary and secondary.
I thought it was because I couldn't press the piston hard enough so I installed it in the car so I could use the brake pedal to get more power. But still no fluid from "S". Is the brake master cylinder faulty? The rear discs are unevenly worn.
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My father has a 1995 Jeep grand Cherokee that drains the battery every few days. I draw tested the battery and it is fine. The alternator is charging fine. During a check of the circuits for battery drain, I found that the MUX/T Tow 50 amp fuse is draining the battery at a rate of about 1.5 amps or more. The manual I have does not list the fuse so the following questions come to mind.
1. What circuits are on this fuse?
2. Can the truck be safely operated without this circuit?
3. What further can you do to detect the trouble?
Some answers I came up with after a little more checking.
1. The gage cluster does not work when the fuse is removed, it must be on this fuse. None of the cluster system lights come on when this fuse is out. The cluster illumination lights work ok.
2. All external lights work without the fuse in except stop lights.
3. All other functions are working without the fuse in.
4. No the truck cannot be safely operated. See answer #1and 2 above
5. Found online that a check of any trouble codes might determine touble.
6. No codes were found. But i ddid have the battery cables off before this was checked. He is going to drive it home and back on Sat so I can recheck the codes.
7. Many replys to other posts here on this site refer to the MUX as a "multiplexer"
More questions
1. What the heck is a multiplexer?
2. What relay controls the cluster? Or is this done directly by the ECM.
I do have a good background in electrical and electronic circuits of many types, mostly radio and computer, but also including automotive. So feel free to beat me up if I am overlooking the obvious. I just feell like I am beating my head against the wall here. AND this is what it feels like (thought that was real cute)
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I have a 1999 Ford Explorer Sport 4.0 SOHC.
I change the rotor, calipers, and pads on the front end.
When I went to bleed the brakes I got some fluid, then I got none.
I can hear fluid squishing around up near the master cylinder, but none coming to the caliper.
I see a bleeder screw on the master cylinder.
Before the car came to me the person had, had low fluid, but had brakes. Now the pedal just goes all the way to the floor with no effort.
There are no leaks or broken lines anywhere.
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I have leased my 2012 prius since April 2012 and about a year ago I began to notice the following noise originating from the master cylinder/ABS unit. The noise happens if I push the pedal firmly to the floor and occasionally during regular braking. The braking system seems to be working fine and regen braking is functional. I am wondering if this noise is a sign of an imminent failure.
Listen to audio recording....
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