Cherokee :: 96 Car Started Fine Drove Down The Street And Died Like It Run Out Of Gas
Jul 6, 2004
I have a cherokee that has never given me any problems...at all, ever. The car started fine drove down the street and died like it had run out of gas. Immediately the voltage gauge read about 10 volts. the car would not start or jump start. took the battery out that night and at oreilly the battery was good, just slightly discharged. was towed to a shop. they had it 2 days and felt there was no power getting to the fuel pump. Had it towed today to the nearest jeep dealer they said my crank position sensor wasn't working, but the car wouldn't start. then they said my neutral safety switch was also bad. switched it out and it starts. all in all they want almost $500 to fix the car. i can't believe both those parts went bad at exactly the same time. Is this possible?
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Last week we had heavy rain and our streets in the gulf are not equipped to handle heavy rain or rain at all !! Anyway I found myself when getting back from work in the middle of high water like 30 cm for 50 meters and all the cars were driving through so I had to do this or else stuck.
Anyway I drove successfully but next day I saw the red light for airbag, yesterday i took it to the mechanical he has a small all cars scan tool I told him the story he told me could be the computer damaged and after he plugged the scanner he told me the same as he could not enter the system i guess.
could be the computer be the issue?
Or is it only the module for the airbags is damaged and for other parts it is okay as only the airbag light is on.
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Went out to start my truck this morning and it wouldn't start. Cranks fine and almost started once but died. Checked all fuses all my voltages are good. Oil and coolant are good. When I turn the key on I can hear the fuel pump and sounds like it's priming correctly. Might be an issue with a clogged fuel filter? Maybe? Haven't had any problems or issues otherwise.
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I drive an '04 Dodge Stratus with 100k+ miles. I drove over a speed bump in the parking lot where I work (10 mph or less), and the car suddenly died (coincidence?) Luckily I was able to coast into a parking spot before the wheel seized up. The "check engine light" and the "oil light" came on, which leads me to believe I didn't lose power. I turned the car off and was able to restart the engine. When I exited the car, I noticed a burning smell. I am going to check the oil level, but is there anything else that could be causing this? I don't want to be stranded on my way home from work tonight.
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In January, I had the alternator replaced on my 2004 Focus after it died in the middle of the street. It's been fine since then, but yesterday I was driving it and it suddenly seemed to lose power - the dashboard battery light came on, there was the dinging noise that indicates that a seatbelt is unbuckled or the headlights have been left on when you open the door, and the fuel needle dropped to empty (even though the tank was 3/4 full.) Then everything kicked back on. Then it happened again. This cycle repeated three or four times. I parked the car, restarted it, and after that it was okay. BUT - I have two long trips coming up, to remote areas of the Rockies, and I want to make sure it's okay before setting off on these journeys.
It seemed like the alternator was bad, or maybe there was a loose connection, but I took it to the mechanic and he couldn't detect anything wrong. The alternator is under warranty, so he's suggesting that I just replace it, but also wants to run "other tests" to see what's going on.
Of possible relevance: it's been pretty cold out here for the past week (-5 F), I don't drive the car that much, and it was the first time I'd started it in several days. The heat and radio were both on when I started it. I left it running in neutral while I scraped off the windows, which I usually don't do. Generally I scrape off the windows first, then get in, start, and just drive. Sometimes it's sluggish in the cold when I do this, but usually it's fine.
Is it possible that this was just the cold? I'm wary of getting into a situation where the mechanic starts finding a bunch of stuff wrong with it that isn't actually wrong.
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I have a 2002 Mitsubishi Diamante LS. I know I know, but I am a poor student (emphasizing poor), and this car is paid off. Anyway, A couple months ago I drove through a puddle, water splashed up into the engine area and my car died. I was able to start it an hour later (after it dried out, I guess) Since then, there have been a couple times that it wouldn't start right away, it took a good 20 minutes for the car to start after the initial try, both of these times have been after a heavy rain. And now, occasionally, I smell a slight electric burning odor. I replaced the battery after the "driving through the puddle" incident. I just hit 80,000 miles. Obviously there is one or more issues I need to deal with.
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Started the car got out of the parking lot and drove a few feet till it stalled and rolled to a stop. It cranks but would not turn over all the way to drive. Called mechanic to let them know that it would be towed. They asked if it had gas. It has a 1/4 tank. Tow driver asked the same question. I'm wondering if the fuel pump could be the culprit or timing belt. If timing belt than I wonder if the engine could be the bad kind (interference). And of course cost. It has just over 90k miles and it has received regular oil changes but not the recommended services. I'm biking to the mechanic to drop the key off and thought that I would try it again and look under the hood, but I need to know what to look for.
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My '98 4.0 has 213k on it and the other day I started the engine and the jeep started shaking like crazy. Eventually the engine quit and refused to turn over so I looked under the hood and quickly discovered the problem, a deteriorated rubber elbow on the left manifold. The elbow connects to a threaded breather type valve in the manifold and has a thin piece of black plastic routing to the purge solenoid next to the left fender/air box.
When I removed the rubber elbow from the manifold the engine eventually turned over and idled fine, I then headed to autozone and found replacements of the same diameter, I cut them down a bit to match the length of the originals. Since its been a while I changed the plugs and wires, coil pack along with cap and rotor while I was at it. I replaced one plug and wire at a time to ensure I didn't mix things up, same goes for the cap. Now the jeep seems to take a few more seconds to get started but once it does it idles fine.
Now when I hit the gas hard the jeep will hesitate and then backfire. If I'm smooth on the gas the jeep drives good, whether city or highway. When coming to a stop the jeep will sometimes buck slightly like it wants to cut but doesn't. The backfire sounds like its coming from the air box and oddly enough, my aftermarket radio no longer plays in the accessory position, probably a separate issue. So far there's been no check engine light.
I really need to keep this jeep for a few more months and I would hate to put big money into at this stage.
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I currently have a 1997 jeep grand cherokee that I seems to die on me. I will charge the battery to 100 percent and its actually a good battery. The vehicle will run fine and then out of nowhere it wont start. I throw the battery jump box on it and it starts. I was thinking that something has been obviously drawing power from the battery. What it could be?
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My 1999 Jeep Cherokee, 4L inline 6, has a very weird problem. Usually, after starting, it runs well for around 10 seconds, during which time I back up and get ready to leave. Then when I switch to drive, it starts to run poorly, having no acceleration in speed or and very little in engine rpm, until I stop using the brakes. Exactly when the suspension relaxes, the idle returns to normal and it runs perfectly after that.
Sometimes the rough running starts while I'm backing up too. So I don't think it related to the transmission. But all I have to do is completely stop, and then it runs great from then on.
This doesn't happen every time, but probably 60-80% of the time. It's been happening for about 2 months now.
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My 2003 Jeep Cherokee totally died all of a sudden. No lights, no locks, nothing. I am skeptical that its the battery because of how sudden this happened.
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Was at the gym, went to turn key and the power died, figured it was the NSS because ive had this problem before, mess with the stick a little bit and power will come back. Was having a harder time this time, so got a buddy to jump me and it got power and started up. On the way home every time id slow down to a stop the power would drain and the car would almost die. As i was pulling in my drive way, luckily, it died and i coasted in.
Figured it was the battery so i switched mine with my brothers. Was putting on the connectors and was having a hard time because sparks kept hitting me in the arm and id flinch and pull it back off, bolts wouldn't tighten, etc. FINALLY got a good connection and the wipers and lights stayed on and wouldn't turn off (even if the key was out of the car). Tried to start it and just a sustained whirl or a spinning, almost like a vacuum cleaner.
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Battery has died..... tried charging it and my amperage is spiking like crazy and wont stop. Prior to all of this my dash lights and gauges were fluctuating at best non responsive at worst. I believed that i had a short in my light switch but with it removed my problems are still consistent my battery terminals are fine, and my battery cables are in good condition. I do not know where the short could be ( i know there are thousands of locations).
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Once again back to the ol' 92 GMC C1500 V6. Had my Ford Escort air assembly disassembled to clean something and received an emergency phone call, the truck seems to start just fine so I took it to get where I needed to go. Ran fine no issues even took it on the highway, ran just like she used to. On the way back I stopped at a gas station, when I went to start it she wouldn't start (towed it home again).
Checked ignition system and it was fine, removed the top of air filter housing and filter and looked down into the fuel injection system and had a person crank the engine and once again no fuel was squirting out. Took out the injectors and they both tested good and the same, 1.7 ohms each, going out to rent noid light again but doubting it will do any good to test again but who knows at this point.
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Started Ex yesterday morn for a couple minutes then all of a sudden radio went dead along with fuel gauge and digital odometer. I shut down then re-fired and all worked again.
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2002 F-250 SD V10 Auto Trans 140K miles.....
Engine ran fine until battery died. Vehicle then sat from Nov to May with no battery in it. On start up now after install of new battery, engine initially surged at idle and seemed to miss (run rough) in gear/under load. No CEL or codes. After a single short drive idle and running under load seemed to have improved a bit, but not yet back to what I would call normal.
QUESTIONS:
Is this simply a matter of the computer having to relearn after battery disconnect?
Will driving restore things back to where they were/should be?
How much driving/How far?
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Resealed HPOP, reinstalled, started right up, ran for good half hr, shut it down, started it next day, ran for 15 min. Revved it up, n all that, good to go, took it for a spin around block, died as pulling into driveway. At crank Dashcmd shows 200 psi on HPOP. I'm double checking the gear bolt right now. When I installed the pump I seated the gear by hand n torqued bolt to spec, so idk...
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It started stalling out off and on. Thought maybe bad tank of gas and waited it out. Since then i have had the catalytic converter replaced. Ignition coil replaced complete tune up with new wires distributor and rotor button. Still stalled so they said fuel pump now that's been replaced and on my way home it stalled again.
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I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee with about 105,000 miles. The transmission (or transfer case) recently started to make a clicking sound. It usually happens in 2 wheel drive mode and gets louder as the car warms up. the clicking sound occurs in all gears except park. It also gets faster with car speed. If the car is put into 4 wheel (full time) mode the sound seems to go away or is not as audible. When you shift back in 2 wheel drive mode the clicking sound comes back.
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Went to start the car today and it started fine but wouldn't shift out of park, and the instrument panel lights were out. Got it towed to the dealer and they narrowed it down to a junction box or instrument panel cluster. They won't know until tomorrow what the problem is. What this might be?
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My '95 Grand Cherokee (104K miles) just started groaning when I make full turns. After first 1 or two turns, right or left, can hear the steering column groan and feel some resistance. Have I lost power steering fluid? or worse?
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